What a wonderful, simple video. Thank you.

My tie down straps did not come with a loop sewen in. I could not tell from the video how large the loop is. I am thinking about a 5 inch loop would be about right.

Only OMC would make it this fucking complex to replace a water pump on an outboard

What about the shifter linkage?

One video says clockwise . Other do counter clockwise . Jeez who is right .

I see a hole . Yet people say their motor over heated bevause of the hole in plastic peace

That little aluminum pin bent the first time I tried it.

Perfect! This novice just got it done thanks to your clear and simple vid.

So I removed shift shaft linkage bolt and dvery other bolt necessary and the lower unit will drop about an inch but seems to be stuck. Am I missing something? Any tips please? I need help on this.

Another thing that was not covered during the installation of the lower unit back into the outboard. There is an inner water tube that needs to be inserted into the pump housing for the water to get transferred. This is a big deal because that tube sometime will not line up, you have to coax it into the hole.

Prayers finally answered. A simple and complete video of this intimidating task.

For E50TLEOD - 1995 Evinrude 50HP Is the bolt that holds the shift shaft in place. Location to change the water impeller at the top or bottom.

Hola , una mala alineación , puede provocar que un motor pierda potencia en respuesta al acelerar sin marcha metida, y con la subida de revoluciones suban también las vibraciones , ? Aparte de ruido en la zona del rodamiento del trabsom? Un saludo

What glue is being used please help. Thanks

Step 6. Dont buy the fucking boat.

hate to be that guy, but you forgot seals and to show how lower connects to water tuberose dish detergent to slip on

If you do it like they show, it will be effed up, they did not put O ring inside housing, and some other mistakes, , so glad I watched the "Detailed Evinrude W P" replace ment video brefor all was back together

I am writing this comment on Sept 29, 2023, in order to add some important clarity as to what is involved in changing out the water pump on an OMC V-6 outboard engine. The subject video indicates that it applies to all engines from 85 to 300 hp. My OMC is a mid 1980s 150hp V-6. If possible I will include a photo of its exact “ID plate”. This video begins with a very quick comment advising that first you disconnect the “shift rod” LINK so that you can drop the lower gear case, then allowing the new water pump to be installed. They give a very quick 4 seconds of video showing that “disconnect” proceedure. (See video 18 seconds to 22 seconds for this disconnect) NOW I WILL TELL YOU that it took me well over one hour just to find that disconnect point TODAY on my 150hp OMC V-6 !!!! It is a slotted head bolt that’s about a 5/16” head. That bolt head faces toward the port side of the engine. It requires a screwdriver that is 12” long just to touch the head of that slotted head bolt, it is so deep within the engine. Once I found it it was so buried within the interior of the motor that although equipped to photograph the disconnect bolt I was unable to do so. On my motor that bolt is about 10 inches in from the port side cowling’s edge. Further it is in back of and below the lower most carburetor. It CANNOT be reached from either the front of the motor OR from the starboard side of the motor. MY POINT HERE TO YOU READING THIS IS - - IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE SUBJECT BOLT EVEN FROM THE PORT SIDE OF THE MOTOR. I am an experienced mechanic with many decades of having done this kind of work. IF you do remove the subject shift linkage bolt you will then be tasked with reinstalling that bolt after you replace the relatively easy water pump. Realigning the two pieces of shift rod and then putting the bolt back into that assembly will be the closest thing to “brain surgery” that I can imagine. You will likely drop the bolt int the innards of the motor’s swivel mechanism and that is when your real troubles will begin. As good as the subject video is as regards the actual water pump change it is terribly flawed in not thoroughly addressing the problem of the shift rod disconnect and reconnect. I’ll include two important photos if this video allows that. Apparently unable to add photos. THIS IS A JOB FOR A HIGHLY SKILLED MECHANIC WHO HAS DONE THIS EXACT PROCEDURE MANY. MANY TIMES.

he forgot to install the O ring in the housing before GLUING the cup in! critical mistake! I can't believe Wholesale Marine didn't catch this in the video and correct it.

They didnt show the bigger than the fat o ring, I think it goes between the plastic housing and the metal bucket, then the oring in the shaft, the big oblong oring mating the plastic housing to the plate, the molded oring on the tube thing, then the selector seal. EDIT: n/m I bunch of ya'll noticed it too, my first time rebuilding a water pump, v4 130 TXAUM :D

I have an evinrude 150 hp outboard…getting to shift rod connector is IMPOSSIBLE….don’t be fooled by this video.. Canadian design is another oxymoron..

Do you not put the other o ring on the top of the drive shaft,???

What happens if I don't put it in reverse because I have problems getting it to reverse, not if I misassemble the axle ???

Is this the same process for 1999 Johnson 90hp?

Mate, this is worse than the dude who rebuilt Johnson 150 without woodruff key, dumb people everywhere making videos

Of all self help videos, this is one of the best. It starts with the issues at hand and finishes. I give this a A+

You never showed hot to adjust you just stuck tool in

This video is not complete. It doesn’t explain that the gimbal bearing twists in its housing. Sometimes you have to whack the alignment tool with your palm on the top or bottom to make it line up with the coupler. The link below explains it well at the l:49 mark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWexpJSwrMqNr9k

Why do I need to disconnect the shifter?

I followed this video. However I took my pump a part again as I did not install the o ring in the housing.

Very good video, it filled in some questions I still had after watching many other videos, thank you.

Great Video. I did not know how to do the job so I went looking. I also found your site with all the parts I need. Once I take it off tomorrow I can order the parts needed. Excellent find on the internet.

Mine came with a washer. So. No washer under the nut hold down?

YES. HUGE MISS IN THIS VIDEO! There is an O-ring that goes between the stainless cup and plastic housing that needs to be carefully glued in!

XLNT Video ! Here a note on Disconnection of the Shift rod/shaft from the shifter pin in front of the engine : There is a) the small bolt to be unscrewed & b) a tiny "hair pin" to be pulled that needs to released on the shifter pin before the shift rod/shaft hole is freed from the tiny pin on the shifter bracket. a & b must be released before one can c) push the shift rod from starboard to port (gear side towards center) out of the shift rod/shaft hole - and opposite to reinstall. A head lamp is good for light. No need to dismount the lower cowlings or the carbs. (on OMCs 1993-97 115 HP & 175 HP 60degr.)

XLNT video - including visuals, text & commentary by Miz Miracle... Thank you all from Oslo, Norway !!

I put in forward instead of reverse. Now after assembly motor only goes in reverse? How can I fix this?

What do you use to clean up the brush and roller with this paint? It says "special thinner" on the can.

Great video! Only question I have is what grease are you using to pump into the inlet for the gimble bearing itself?

Where do's the dimensions' allow for the windshield?

Hello, just found the Video. Great Job, superb explanations. Just one ustion: What kind of Glue do you use for the Housing and the O-Rings? Will some 50200 do or do I need something special? Regards from Germany Ulli

Nice Video. I've spent a few days trying to figure something out. I am swapping lower units. The one that I removed has a STRAIGHT shift rod (not even sure it's the correct one. I was Bait & Switched). The replacement one, has a bend at the top. Which is correct? If the bend is no good, do I just remove the straight one, and put it on the replacement? It's a 1994 150 Ocean Pro. I'm using the lower unit, of a 1996 200 Ocean Pro, which I believe to be compatible.

you guys didnt put larger o ring in impeller housing

Nice consice thank you.

💓💓💓💓💓💓

Great video, helped me out through the whole process on taking my lower unit off my 225 HO

I contacted a boat mechanic about putting in a new gimbal bearing, and shift cable (because my boat was taking on water thru a slit in the shift cable boot) he instructed me on the kit I needed to order with the new bearing and gaskets, shift cable etc He came over to my house where I keep my boat and removed the sterndrive to get to the worn out gimbal bearing and proceeded to install the new one with his alignment bar, but the bearing wouldn’t go into its place in the gimbal housing. His bar he was using was not being held horizontally so naturally the bearing won’t seat properly. He worked at this for at least an hour or more. Finally he jumps up in my boat and removes the engine cover/shroud. He then proceeds to take his mallet and large crescent wrench and starts to strike the wrench to loosen the front engine bolt (which is responsible for the alignment of the engine coupler that the sterndrive fits in to) then he gets back out and starts hitting the alignment tool to seat the gimbal bearing, he couldn’t do it so I asked if I could try, I took his mallet and held the bar perfectly horizontal and seated the bearing on my first try. At this point I’m getting suspicious with his intent. So now that the bearing is in he can bolt my stern drive to the back of the boat and I could order a new lower unit that he could just bolt on when it comes in, needless to say, the stern drive will not slide in to the engine coupler because I believe he knocked the entire engine out of alignment by a few millimeters when he hit his wrench with his mallet on the front engine bolt and adjustable nut. Usually if there’s an alignment issue the stern drive will not come out easily but mine came right out with ease when he first took it off to get to the gimbal bearing. He kept on saying that my boat “hates him” because it was giving him such a hard time getting back together and he just couldn’t figure out why the sterndrive wasn’t going in. I then mentioned that he had turned the front engine bolt and he said that that wouldn’t be the problem. This event was Saturday Feb 13th, 2022. (I asked a mechanic on Thursday February 24th and there’s no reason to adjust that bolt in order to seat a gimbal bearing). So he promised to come back the next day (Feb 14) and get everything back together so I paid him $380 for his time that day and we set a time the following day and he came over and worked 4 more hours to absolutely no progress whatsoever. He couldn’t get the sterndrive back on. This was on Superbowl Sunday. At this point we both knew that I needed a new lower portion of the sterndrive so he recommended I just order a new one and when that comes in he’d come over and install for me. I just went ahead and ordered a new complete sterndrive and it arrived at my house and I texted him that it had come in and he’d come over on Wednesday which was Feb 23 to install it. On Wednesday, 3.5 hrs of trying to install the new stern drive but no success. Finally he gets up in the boat and looks around the back engine compartment and discovers the real reason why the sterndrive wouldn’t go into to the engine coupler and it was because my rear engine mounting bolts and bushings needed to be replaced. He said it was a really easy job then explained he needed to lift the entire engine out of the boat to be able to replace those parts (which would cost around $60 for parts) but his labor would be no less than $1000.00 and that this would fix the problem. At this point I just realized I am a victim of the “long con” Shortly before finding the “real” reason the sterndrive wouldn’t go in he asked me if I knew what boat stands for, I said no, then he said Bend Over And Take it. He chuckled. I didn’t. Prior to this recent event I had my boat at the marina exactly 13 months ago for a diagnostic and the technicians called me back in their shop area to explain to me what needed done and they showed me the gimbal bearing and my leaking lower unit of the sterndrive with the stern drive off the boat on their small hoist and I stood there and watched them reinstall the sterndrive. It reattached to the back of the boat with ease, but I thought nothing of it until this guy a few days ago had such difficulties for 3 separate days (Saturday February 13th, Sunday February 14th, and Wednesday February 23rd) Now I feel like I’m being held hostage and I gotta pay $1000 ransom to get my boat back in working order which really just amounts to turning the front engine bolt to get the engine coupler back in alignment with the gimbal housing so the sterndrive shaft will slide in with ease like it did in the past. So yesterday, Thursday February 24th, I went on to the website “Just Answers” where I texted back and forth with a certified boat technician and told him basically what I’ve written here and he concurred with me and I have a copy of our dialogue thru the JustAnswers App on my iPhone. I’m wondering if I have a case with sufficient evidence that the court would recognize? I never got anything in writing from him so I’m wondering if I’m out my $480? Thanks for reading this! So basically I don’t think the front engine bolt needed to be messed with just to install a gimbal bearing

Forgot to place O ring before installing metal impeller housing ,forgot O ring on shaft after greasing splines. Watch brandens garage for complete and correct method to prevent premature wear and damage.

Thank you for the video, question. What if I install impeller into cup first, is that possible?

What about the washer that comes with the kit?