It is and it is getting repainted in the same color. I will show after the paintwork.

Hello. Here is a link to a source for the LH8 pan as a kit with pickup and dipstick and tube: www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/truck/parts/1026100.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Yy5BhD-ARIsAI0RbXbozFNhuf-H7W5ycxBKHJIk7-ownAyNvpyp14JKjLMFhKi7rU5_vusaAhV7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And here is a link to the motor mounts. www.fabbotfab.com/products/fabbot-colorado-ls-swap-engine-mounts?srsltid=AfmBOor_x0BhEl9ECbaN8accKZusEdex_uRVK4wYJdG7PosqCSJVK_L6

We did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4nEoGt9mNqkpKs

The car was originally built and setup this way. We have since corrected this and it uses narrowband 02 sensors on each bank and uses LTFT and STFT. But we have massaged the tune in this C5 to the point where o2 sensors and fuel trimming is optional. 👍

You got me on the 4L60/70 but this did not have an LS2 camshaft installed. The camshaft removed from the blown LS2 can be seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y37Nd31og6t6f9U

In this vehicle there was no damage to the camshaft. However, the factory camshaft has a very low lift and duration and while it is apart for the heads and lifters, tossing in a stage 1 or 2 camshaft is a great way to make some lemonade. 👍

For us no. The press we used was open on top and there was no markings anywhere on the stud.

@@secondshiftperformance gotcha, I screwed up mine. It was a mevotech brand. It looks promising. I was reluctant on oriellys special. lol

Yup. It works. We got over 15 psi of boost before the 4L70E left the chat. The cheap manifold welded better than I thought. Honestly I believe they are cast steel and not cast iron but I could be wrong. They just welded pretty nice. I also used nickel welding wire. I think if you look you can also find fabricated turbo manifolds and they might be easier to cut and weld on. Like these: www.ebay.com/itm/145891562896?_skw=ls+turbo+manifolds&itmmeta=01J8JP0XHYFFJXMQ2AG88BDYZ3&hash=item21f7d09590:g:Re4AAOSwlnxmj07k&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkH%2BHMGrNESkowTeJ0InJi%2FwsduFSzD42CxL64hJxUfod96Tknf6fraGTwPEq1pzkeW9ALrVNL6DxLfocVDdI%2F84GDQcneqp5JGNxgd8btmt0bHhJL64mdYnB9%2FTPvSFjCpYXXbg41vg%2F16rY1fwSn9B8lBhv%2BuekKoL7PldwfyOjcAtj91qT5Vopr1Ie%2BcG1lPvh1MYT4r9NMwFIAEkiVfDnYJ%2FFDn4AFXf1Z%2BI%2BLlXWx%2FKUEyofzJb3Frck8X4%2Fsst2KLZLvldvyS1xqzgres4Io62O12T1jiGt8Z8DISpQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4zZg9bEZA

Yes but the kits from ACE are no longer available and we will make our own kit and conversion for your Range Rover.

Yes because you can let the spring unwind. 2 of the bolts have studs on the ends that hold the spring in place.

@@secondshiftperformance $140 idiot move

@@stevenzansant5645 I destroyed the original part trying to get the timing chain off without removing the pump or pan. Don't feel bad if you wrecked one. The part in the video is brand new and cost me right around $140, lol.

@secondshiftperformance I got the phaser out put the delete wedge in but I took the wrong bolt all the way out and heard something unwind inside I never took it fully apart put the wedge in the one vein n tightend it back up would it damage my new cam if I used it?

@@stevenzansant5645 buy the new phaser. For me I bent the thin reluctor wheel on removal and when trying to straighten it the spring unwound. For the money it is not worth putting it together and having to take it back apart. It is such a big job that the $140 is a small amount in the face of such labor. Replace the phaser with a genuine GM part and feel good going back together just once.

Thanks. 👍

Oh man it was very simple. It all just bolts to the oil pan. The passenger side unbolts and comes off with no fuss. The drivers side is a bit bigger and the engine and frame is in the way of just removing it. So I just unbolted it and let it lay against the frame and pulled the engine. Then it came right out. If you are removing the diff with the engine in place the motor needs to go over towards the passenger side a bit. Loosen the motor mounts or however.

@secondshiftperformance Awesome I appreciate the feedback I'll try to tackle it tomorrow!

I'm sorry your Corvette has given you so much trouble for you to feel this way. What's wrong with your Z06? Are you in or near South Florida? Everybody should love their vette, especially if it is a Z06. I can help you discover the magic of your ride.

@@secondshiftperformance garbage motor tbh...it's always prone to failure with all the titanium crap

@@avgeeks5638 Well the heads are definitely problematic. They can be fixed or replaced, though. This comes at a cost but it is less than fixing the blown up engine. Are you in Florida? I can help you upgrade to a set of Brodix BR7 heads, if you like. Wed can get all new valves and springs for them and you will make more power for your investment along with upping the reliability.

@@secondshiftperformance the entire motor was built.last year, darton sleeved heads and everything..but a rod knock now from a spun bearing..more likely the titanium valve coating failure.. pos motor lol

Ya so I wouldn't believe that for all the tea in China. And you probably shouldn't either. I hope this is not what your engine builder told you. But just in case they did, the logical next question from you should be How did any debri work its way to a single crankshaft rod bearing if there is a filter just downstream of the pump and before any oil re enters the engine. The reality there is the oil filter would have caught any debris large enough to plug a passage in the oiling system. We could argue the debris hurt the oil pump and the reduced oil pressure cause the bearing to spin but if that were the case why is it a single bearing that spun and what do all the other bearing surfaces look like? Do they show starved oil? Bearings can also spin from incorrect applications/not taking proper measurements in building, or from incorrect bolt torque. And from excessive loads or heat. Excessive heat can be created as simply as using a bearing that has the incorrect dimensions and is too tight. I am not in any way suggesting this to be the fault of the builder. I am only pointing out it is bad optics for a builder not to warranty such a problem so close to the build time. In consideration that most engine builders warranty their engines for 3 or 4 years. Where are you located?

Yes this swap was done with an ACE kit that is no longer available.

Thank you

www.fabbotfab.com/products/fabbot-colorado-ls-swap-engine-mounts

The 5.3L engine that went into the H3 Alpha was the LH8 engine. So you want to find a LH8 oil pan. Here is a link to a kit with the pan, pickup, and dipstick with tube: www.brphotrods.com/p/LH8OP/new-lh8-oil-pan.html

Hello. Thank you for watching our channel and reaching out to us. And I'm sorry. The conversion kit used here is not available anymore. I do not know if it will be again or if this company is just done making the kits, but the conversion kit used for this Disco 2 came from here: www.alternativeconversion.com/

Hey Thanks!

It made more room for the Derale fans and shroud getting rid of the pulley and snout for mechanical clutch fan.

117k.

@@secondshiftperformance so cool to see performance cars like this hitting high mileage but still in great shape.

@@VetteRocZ The car came in with the battery dead and the engine blown up so we didn't see the odometer until almost the end of the job. It was quite the surprise. The rest of the car is in very nice condition.

Thank you

We installed both a pusher and a puller fan and got between 5 and 6k CFM. Looking back I feel it would have been better to keep the clutch fan setup.

Thank you. And we would love to help you out with your LS3

thank you

Unfortunately no. The seal looked ok as did the machined surface of the crankshaft. Got our fingers crossed going back together.

We did not find a definitive answer