These horns are wired into the main horns so they all sound together.

How so?

If you use a GM transmission and transfer case to go along with the GM engine then the only thing you need to worry about is connecting the shafts, building the mounts, and wiring in the GM controller to run everything.

He is just watching KZbin on his phone.

In this application it is easier to R&I them separately.

@ yes of course , sorry for not specifying , getting them attached together once the motor is in the bay .

@@beans7528 We jacked the front of the transmission as high as we could so the engine will connect to it while still clearing the engine mounts. And make sure the torque converter studs are lined up with the flexplate holes.

@ thank you guys , you guys left the mounts bolted into the subframe , and then bolted them to the block after it was connected to the transmission correct ?

@@beans7528 Yes that's right

Yes. With the high flow cats and proper tuning with wideband o2 sensors and HPTuners there can be no fuel smell. And the downstream o2 codes can also be corrected with the tuning software as well.

@ thank you & happy new year!

@@carlomendoza8588 Happy New Year

thank you for the heads up.

Thank you @SummitRacing. We couldn't be doing this without you.

Yes.

That's right. Good call.

@secondshiftperformance Can't wait to get mine been looking @ them for yrs njoy

For the transmission to engine? No. But you can unbolt the bellhousing and bolt on the v8 bellhousing and change the input shaft and torque converter. And then your 4l60 will work with the v8. Ya but really you'd do so much better with a fresh and new transmission. 4L60e is known for it's failures and you are ramping up the power output.

I think they might be the same. In this build I ordered a new windage tray but what came was the same as what was installed on the new LMF engine already and so I wasted my money on the windage tray. I think they are all the same for gen iv. But just in case, here is the part cheap from BTR: briantooleyracing.com/chevrolet-performance-windage-tray-c5-c6-corvette-12558189.html

If you are in or near Pompano beach come find us, show us your car, and we'll get you an estimate. Call or text us at 954-696-4727.

Wet sump LS3 crankshaft part number is: 12597569. Both wet sump and dry sump specs and part numbers can be found here: www.onallcylinders.com/2017/11/02/ls3-engine-specs-performance-bore-stroke-cylinder-heads-cam-specs/

2303 W McNab Rd Pompano Beach Fl 33069

That's exactly what this pan is. You can tell the OEM from the knockoff by the baffling. GM is able to cast the whole pan as a single piece. The knockoff has to add a plate for a lip they are not able to cast into the pan. There is a price range to them. We went with middle of the road afraid the cheapest of the cheap would be blem. It went on well. And we haven't had any problems or complaints or leaks from it, yet.

It is and it is getting repainted in the same color. I will show after the paintwork.

Hello. Here is a link to a source for the LH8 pan as a kit with pickup and dipstick and tube: www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/truck/parts/1026100.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Yy5BhD-ARIsAI0RbXbozFNhuf-H7W5ycxBKHJIk7-ownAyNvpyp14JKjLMFhKi7rU5_vusaAhV7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

And here is a link to the motor mounts. www.fabbotfab.com/products/fabbot-colorado-ls-swap-engine-mounts?srsltid=AfmBOor_x0BhEl9ECbaN8accKZusEdex_uRVK4wYJdG7PosqCSJVK_L6

We did. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4nEoGt9mNqkpKs

The car was originally built and setup this way. We have since corrected this and it uses narrowband 02 sensors on each bank and uses LTFT and STFT. But we have massaged the tune in this C5 to the point where o2 sensors and fuel trimming is optional. 👍

You got me on the 4L60/70 but this did not have an LS2 camshaft installed. The camshaft removed from the blown LS2 can be seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y37Nd31og6t6f9U

In this vehicle there was no damage to the camshaft. However, the factory camshaft has a very low lift and duration and while it is apart for the heads and lifters, tossing in a stage 1 or 2 camshaft is a great way to make some lemonade. 👍

For us no. The press we used was open on top and there was no markings anywhere on the stud.

@@secondshiftperformance gotcha, I screwed up mine. It was a mevotech brand. It looks promising. I was reluctant on oriellys special. lol

Yup. It works. We got over 15 psi of boost before the 4L70E left the chat. The cheap manifold welded better than I thought. Honestly I believe they are cast steel and not cast iron but I could be wrong. They just welded pretty nice. I also used nickel welding wire. I think if you look you can also find fabricated turbo manifolds and they might be easier to cut and weld on. Like these: www.ebay.com/itm/145891562896?_skw=ls+turbo+manifolds&itmmeta=01J8JP0XHYFFJXMQ2AG88BDYZ3&hash=item21f7d09590:g:Re4AAOSwlnxmj07k&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkH%2BHMGrNESkowTeJ0InJi%2FwsduFSzD42CxL64hJxUfod96Tknf6fraGTwPEq1pzkeW9ALrVNL6DxLfocVDdI%2F84GDQcneqp5JGNxgd8btmt0bHhJL64mdYnB9%2FTPvSFjCpYXXbg41vg%2F16rY1fwSn9B8lBhv%2BuekKoL7PldwfyOjcAtj91qT5Vopr1Ie%2BcG1lPvh1MYT4r9NMwFIAEkiVfDnYJ%2FFDn4AFXf1Z%2BI%2BLlXWx%2FKUEyofzJb3Frck8X4%2Fsst2KLZLvldvyS1xqzgres4Io62O12T1jiGt8Z8DISpQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4zZg9bEZA

Yes but the kits from ACE are no longer available and we will make our own kit and conversion for your Range Rover.

Yes because you can let the spring unwind. 2 of the bolts have studs on the ends that hold the spring in place.

@@secondshiftperformance $140 idiot move

@@stevenzansant5645 I destroyed the original part trying to get the timing chain off without removing the pump or pan. Don't feel bad if you wrecked one. The part in the video is brand new and cost me right around $140, lol.

@secondshiftperformance I got the phaser out put the delete wedge in but I took the wrong bolt all the way out and heard something unwind inside I never took it fully apart put the wedge in the one vein n tightend it back up would it damage my new cam if I used it?

@@stevenzansant5645 buy the new phaser. For me I bent the thin reluctor wheel on removal and when trying to straighten it the spring unwound. For the money it is not worth putting it together and having to take it back apart. It is such a big job that the $140 is a small amount in the face of such labor. Replace the phaser with a genuine GM part and feel good going back together just once.

Thanks. 👍

Oh man it was very simple. It all just bolts to the oil pan. The passenger side unbolts and comes off with no fuss. The drivers side is a bit bigger and the engine and frame is in the way of just removing it. So I just unbolted it and let it lay against the frame and pulled the engine. Then it came right out. If you are removing the diff with the engine in place the motor needs to go over towards the passenger side a bit. Loosen the motor mounts or however.

@secondshiftperformance Awesome I appreciate the feedback I'll try to tackle it tomorrow!