How does this change when the polax has a blade instead of a crows beak?

I come back to this video about once a year. There's so much information to unpack. It really changed my perspective on dagger fighting and sparring, as well as Fiore as a source.

Should show non-compliant partner drill versions instead, coz it's Fiore the Badass.

Very good advice.

greetings from greece

Tyrannosaurus or tire? 🤔

Take note, Warzecha

Super un🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

Excellent discussion. During the first world war, the italian Arditi were trained in hand combat to hand and knife fight on the badis of Fiore's techniques

This is so cool to see. This might be the closest equivalent I’ve seen of a European equivalent of iai. Do you know of any other techniques like the first three shown (whether or not it’s in Fiore)?

Do you think fishtail pommels are reasonable to grip?

It looks like the 4th and 5th plays involve stopping your opponent's cut with the weak of your blade. It looked kinda dubious to me, but I'm sure you all have tried this at full speed in sparring and such. Can you describe more how it feels or how it works out?

Great class!

Looks like vine disarm

Thank you for sharing, I missed two lessons because of an injury, this is precisely what I needed!

If people are asking this question in the context of what they should study, the answer is always whoever they find to be the better instructor in their local area, regardless of systems. Even if system A is found to have an objective edge over system B, you will get more mileage if you find a better system B instructor

You got a point

too many words, poor body control, and completely wrong technique

From my experience in the field, there are exactly two reasons why you'd hit someone with a spear instead of stabbing them: 1) you messed up something and your point is off line, might as well smack them on the way to getting it back on, 2) they got past your point and are too close for a good stabbing. I'd say that one of these happens maybe once in four fights, unless your opponent has a shield - in that case, the buttstrike is your go to technique for when he inevitably tries to close rapidly. That Fiore buttstrike you showed is something I only do if my opponent is fairly close - at the distance you were standing, a disengage or a forceful bind works just as well, is much faster and doesn't leave the bind so much. I know Getty is showing it with the distance you were at, but I'm leaning towards error in drawing on account of copying 'standard spear section poses' by the illustrator here. I'm usually wary of doing that, but I have gotten stabbed one too many times here to not consider it.

No offense but this looks like Aikido

That pommel is stupid and limits the user in my opinion...

I knife, with a really long handle.

In the first play, the two Axe Heads are going to get hooked to each other. It's better to just attack with the butt spike. It would work on a glaive.

Nice video. Clear presentation with useful demonstrations. Appreciated.

3:42 Myer has something similar, and to date, I've never seen someone in a tournament pull that off without doubling.

Villain does not mean antagonist in any romance language at the time. It means villager, the negative connotations comes from the natural disdain that the nobility had to those below them.

What I really like about Fiore is that it works really well in limited space. If you're on battlefield formation or a corridor and cannot jump around and circle the opponent sniping at the hands, then the only way is forward, and then you go into grappling naturally. And that's where Fiore's plays really shine. Anyway, that's what I learned when I did fiore for a couple years in my youth.

So, like, Lazy Tie the Coat, Jingang Pounds Mortar, Single Whip, White Crane Spreads Wings, then Brush Knee Twist Step? Little bit “Fist Under Elbow” and “Mounted Scout” too.

Really good discussion. If I ever make it out to the UK I hope I get a chance to drop by one of your studios!

It's amazing how you're saying smart and right things half of a video and then taking those stupid stances like playing a flute. That's should've been text/audio only, not a video...

Thanks for the content! A note on the terminology. In Spanish at least, a grappling hold or lock is called a 'llave' which means key. I suppose that it's the same in Fiore's Italian. Basically, the translation should be lock or hold. Although, I understand using key in order to reference the position's Fiore roots.

My dream is to pull this off in a tournament to embarrass someone. Not out of a malice but just because it'll be funny and cool

Could always keeping a constant orientation before striking also be a method of disguising intent? Turning beak forward before striking could give your opponent a clue that you are intending to hook?

Very well done. It's amazing how practical the European arts are

I wonder if you can do the mastercuts with a poleaxe

Caught that airplane frame around 2:08 lol Anyway, I also learned techniques similar to Bicornio that treat the grip the way you do. I have seen a lot of people in forums complaining about the specifics of the non-dominant hand grip, where many manuals show the backhand in a reverse grip. I’m still trying to understand why that would have to be. Do you have any opinion on this?

Daniel I noticed that many of the illustrations on the Fiore manuscripts when it comes to illustrating the cross/bind these show the swords pointing upward...it s this on purpose or just a mishap on the drawings?

Always remember to re-pommel that groin.

Audio is very low

Super!!!

Very interesting, you're definitely right that the wider hema community seems to have a blind spot.

If you can beat your opponent at range, i.e. the safety of being far from danger and the time buffer it brings, then for me that's the logical way to do it; that's the reason spears are essentially as long as they can be while remaining mechanically viable, and have been so popular on the battlefield. Plays at closer range, in my humble opinion, are for when neither combatant "succeeds" at range and one of them can get an initiative at a closer range. While I try (rather unsuccessfully) to maintain the same general philosophy with the longsword (generally KdF discipline, to be precise), full-range attacks, point control etc. are not quite ideal for maintaining maximum range, so getting closer is frequently desireable. With a polearm though, if I can get the job done at the maximum range, I will do just that.

I love this video, we seem to have pretty similar thoughts on dagger

yo ocupo lija de joyero o esponja con lija del grano mas fino .me espanta la idea de usar una lima.

Good basic primer, imo. I do prefer ballistol but nothing wrong with. WD40. WD40 is also great for cleaning harness in my experience before putting something more lasting on.

Rennaisance wax works gooder than oil

Nice one, thanks Luke.

WD40 is not the tool for the job. It's a displacer, at best. It'll get rid of moisture (good) but then it evaporates leaving any existing pitting, scratches, or dents exposed to the moist air once more (bad). Ready to begin rusting again. Cheap, sure. But you have to be constantly using it to do the job you want it to do. In the end, an individual container of gun oil or other similar products may cost more, but you need to use them far less for the same job.

WD40 Silicone Specialist plus a wipedown after training with a guncloth, the gun cloth will also snag on burrs showing you where you need to file. You wont need to treat it more than 3 times a year with the silicone specialist method.

Thanks 👍