This is great information.. I'm currently studying for my RO course in the UK. These vids are a great reference! Thanks!

Great, how about the grease holes?

Well is the gen 3 i have one of the older ones that says Australia on the side to me that s the real Gen 3 but all gens are good Glock make s good guns

Good luck Fudge

So the 44 doesn’t have to have a booster?

Lekker! Welcome to Finland!

Lekker Fudge!

Sterkte manne!

Nice

Are you saying you can load 9mm loads, from 4-8 grains (powder dependent) with the large powder bar?

Why do you have to play fucking "music" when it´s about silencer?

I've not used my 1050 in at least 5 years - and his warning to changed the battery every year is spot on - as I found out - lol.

THX for the info - I can fix mine now!😃

I got a 550 casefeeder that I’m having issues with …. I got the variable upgrade but can’t seem to dial in clutch and I throw brass in and it won’t turn …. Idk?

Nice one martin

Great gun

I was getting a little frustrated trying to imitate an octupus, simple hack saved my sanity..

Very nice

can we resize a complete 9mm ammo on that roll sizer?

I’m so curious and can’t wait to find out why the Lapua brass was destroyed like that when the Hornady brass was not. Jonathon, are you sure you didn’t do that on purpose so that we have to stay tuned to watch all the remaining episodes of Jonathon’s Journey? 😂 I’ll ontinue to watch the next videos of the journey. I think Jonathon won’t tell us until the last episode. 😬 Great sense of humor! 👍

Fw arms decapper is the way, it's superior to everything else in the market.

Why not show us how you do it? Thanks

Buy once cry once is100% good advice. Any money spent before upgrading becomes wasted money that could have been spent towards something worth having, such as more reloading manuals. I decided to go with a single stage (Buchanan Precision Machine) press with the Hornady L-N-L quick change die bushing that allows me to change dies as fast as one could turn a turret head. This way I will not need to change the turret head no matter how many calibers I end up with. No matter what I want to do all I ever have to do is swap dies and shell holders. I can change up mid-stream and back again in the blink of an eye. Got to love it! I decided to get an (Ohaus) beam scale, a (Lyman Brass Smith) powder trickler, and a (Redding) powder dropper so I can quickly measure charges spot on every time. I also got every reloading manual I could find, so that no matter what I might want to reload I have recipes to do so. Not to mention the amount of knowledge I gained from reading the first half of the books. Priceless!

A little bit about different brands and types of primers. Which ones to use, when and why. All CCI and Remingtons primers, plus Winchester's small pistol are the safest to use in automatic priming tools. Federal burns hotter and cleaner, yet are according to the Richard Lee manual "one tough dragon to control in the automatic priming systems". Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 60: To find out why some brand primers explode violently, I talked to an expert, Dave Anderson, now retired from CCI. He told me primers are charged with one of two types of charging compound. One is called "basic" and the other is "normal." The primers that use "basic compound" must not be used in Lee Priming tools because an accidental discharge is very violent. The "normal compound" is less violent and causes little damage to the tool. The user is easily protected by safety glasses. Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 20: In the firearms industry there are two types of lead styphnate primer compounds - "normal" and "basic." There are presently four manufacturers of primers in the U.S., and all of them except one uses the normal lead styphnate primer compound. Federal is the only manufacturer that presently uses basic . The common ingredient to all small arms primers is lead styphnate of which there are several different varieties. Basically it is in crystalline form and is very explosive. Normal lead styphnate is composed of large irregular crystals, which are slightly acidic when wet, somewhat more brisant at lower temperatures (good for military use), and they burn with a cool flame at ambient temperatures. However, it is somewhat harder to get an even mix of components in normal lead styphnate primers because of the larger irregular crystals and the fact that the "mix" often requires some metallic fuels (such as powdered aluminum) to help make a magnum primer. Basic lead styphnate is composed of small regular crystals and unlike the normal mix is not as acidic and will not attack primer cups when wet. Basic lead styphnate is easier to mix than normal variety and there is no need to add metallic fuels. The basic primer flame is very hot and will easily ignite most powders and therefore Federal does not offer a magnum pistol primer. However this style primer is slightly less brisant at very low temperatures (- 20degrees F. to - 40 degrees F.) which would make normal primer more suitable for military purposes. Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 29: Certain brands of primers might be unsafe to use in some priming tools like Lee's AutoPrime because of the potential for mass detonation. With these tools, should an operator detonate one primer, as can happen when a handloader tries to seat one primer on top of another, the detonation subjects other primers in the tray to shock and an incandescent flash. If this shock and flash can detonate a second primer, there is the potential that most or all (perhaps 100 or more) primers in the tray might detonate en masse. Such a simultaneous detonation would be a disaster. Lee has tested all available primers and, excepting CCI and Winchester, all brands produce an unacceptable number of mass explosions when the primer being seated is forced to detonate (by heating in a remote explosion-proof box). By comparing Federal and CCI primers, we can gain some understanding why brands very in this regard. Federal primers do not have a foil covering over the primer pellet; an application of a type of paint replaces the foil. That sealant is easily ignited and highly flammable, possessing a very low kindling temperature. These are beneficial characteristics; among other things, they help reduce combustion residues. However, use of this pellet sealant makes these primers very easy to ignite. Exposure of the open front of the cup to the flash from an adjacent primer easily does the job! Conversely, CCI primers have a paper foil almost completely covering the front of the pellet. This foil deters pellet ignition because it is only moderately combustible and has a relatively high kindling temperature. A short duration flash from a primer is unlikely to ignite the foil or penetrate through it to ignite the pellet underneath.

Metallic Cartridge Reloading, All New Third Edition, M.L. McPherson, page 6: FORWARD ... ... never forget that when handloading ammunition you are dealing with energetic materials and devices capable of bringing great harm and destruction. I am constantly reminded of the dangers primers present. One regional ammunition manufacturer formerly demonstrated this fact to all new employees at the company's annual picnic. At 200 yards, he would set up two targets: one was a company coffee cup with 200 primers in it; the other, two sticks of dynamite hidden behind a similar cup. He would then explode each target with precisely placed shots ... The question the group was to answer: "Which was which..?" And the answer was not obvious! page 29: Primer Safety If there is one area of deep concern, it is safe handling of primers. I don't understand how it happens, but people are always finding ways to set off a primer unintentionally. Stories abound of handloaders, managing to mass explode them. These incidents often involve hand-held priming tools or automatic primer feeds using a tube of stacked primers. The handloader can treat primers with all manner of disrespect, but sooner or later he will pop a primer unintentionally. If that happens to be intimately associated with a large group of primers, the results can be devastating. Even one primer by itself can inflict a severe wound ... page 30: Handle primers with the respect these little bombs deserve and follow all safety precautions provided by the manufacturers. Always wear safety glasses when handling primers.

Three things to keep in mind here, “primer dusting” + “static electricity” = “ka-BOOM!” VihtaVuori Reloading Manual 4th Edition, page 96: Handloading is an enjoyable, rewarding hobby that can be easily carried out in complete safety. However, like any human activity, carelessness or negligence can create hazards. Handling primers and powders correctly is at the core of safe handloading practices. Do not store large quantities of primers in bulk! Doing so will create a bomb! Primers kept in bulk can explode en masse - the explosion of a few hundred primers is equivalent to throwing a hand grenade into a room! Do not use excessive force when loading primers into equipment, primer tubes, or seating them in cartridge case primer pockets under any circumstances. Take special care in filling and handling auto primer tubes - they have been the source of many explosions. Swift Bullet Company Reloading Manual Number two, page 38: The Basic Rules for Reloading Safely Introduction Read all available books on reloading. Make yourself as knowledgeable as you can. page 40: Primer Handling 5. Do not dump together in bulk. There is a risk of mass detonation if one is ignited. 6. If resistance to seating or feeding of primers is felt, STOP and investigate. DO NOT FORCE PRIMERS. There have been instances of “primer dusting” in the tubes of reloading tools. Clean machine after each use. Lyman 51st Handloading Handbook, page 29 and 39: CAUTION: Primers are explosives and require special care handling. page 28: CAUTION: Safety glasses should be worn whenever handling primers. page 58: CAUTION: Always wear safety glasses whenever handling primers. Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading 11th Edition, page 85: Primers are the most active, potentially dangerous component employed in reloading. You can get into trouble with them handling in such a way as to discharge them … Nosler Reloading Guide 9, page 44: DO NOT FORCE PRIMERS 9. There has been instances of “primer dusting” in the tubes of reloading tools. Clean after each use. Barnes Reloading Manual Number 4, page 44; Norma Reloading Manual Volume 2, page 146, under “Primers”: 6. If resistance to feeding or seating primers is felt, STOP and investigate. DO NOT FORCE PRIMERS. 9. There have been instances of “primer dusting” in the tubes of loading tools. Clean after each use. Berger Bullets Reloading Manual 1st Edition, page 104: The safe reloading of ammunition is largely based on the use of common sense. page 106: Always Clean up After Each Reloading Session Debris will collect and it can be a safety hazard. It is therefore, important to clean up your work area after each reloading session. Safety always comes back to the use of common sense. If you ever find yourself in doubt, stop, research the question. Lyman 51st Handloading Handbook, page 59: CAUTION: Primer feeds require extreme care. … … handling primers one at a time is a safe procedure. However, primers handled in bulk are a potential hazard. Should you choose to use an automatic primer feed, extreme caution is required. … … Should one primer explode, all will do so spontaneously with disastrous results. Even a few primers exploding can cause serious property damage and personal injury. Many high volume reloaders feel an auto primer feed is a necessary part of their equipment. If you think you number among these folks, use extreme caution when working with an automatic primer feed. CAUTION: Never push, bang, bump or otherwise apply any force to a primer or primer feed. CAUTION: When using an automatic primer feed, at the first sign of a primer jam or difficult feeding - STOP! Then think about what must be done. Force nothing and do not be tempted to jiggle the tool or any part of it even slightly. Rather, carefully disassemble the primer feed. First remove the primer magazine and all primers contained therein. Clear the jam, determine the cause for the jam, and correct the problem before proceeding with use of the primer feed. page 60: CAUTION: Extreme care must be used when filling a primer feed magazine tube with primers. Never force a primer into a pickup tube. A pressure of no more than five pounds should be required for a primer to slip into the tube. Do not use any primer pickup tube requiring more than this amount of force. CAUTION: Primers can and do “dust”. CAUTION: Static electricity may cause primers to explode. Hodgdon Powder No. 27 Data Manual, section 6 -10, under "Handling Primers": They demand the respect and careful handling due any device containing explosives. Primers should never be handled, used, ... in bulk, since primers in bulk can explode simultaneously. ... ... ... Precautions should be taken to avoid buildup of static electricity on the person when handling primers or conducting handloading procedures. Loading equipment should be electrically grounded. Speer Handloading Manual Number 15, page 41: Static electricity and the Reloader 1. Static electricity can be highly hazardous for the reloader. 2. primers are most sensitive to static charges. The energy is enough to ignite primer dust in and around priming tools. The dust can ignite and propagate to all the primers in the tube [or tray]. The result is a serious explosion. This is the reason to keep those tubes [and trays] clean! 3. Static charges prefer low humidity environments. take some simple precautions. a. Use a humidifier. b. remove carpets from reloading areas. This is the prime source of static energy accidents. c. Clean the reloading area on a schedule. Routine cleaning removes residues of primers and propellants that can react to static energy. d. Use an anti-static product[s]. Handbook of Metallic Cartridge Reloading, Edward Matunas, page 14: Most plastic funnels tend to build up a static charge that cause powder to cling to them. Reloader's Guide - Complete, Fully Illustrated Step-By-Step Guide to Handloading Ammunition, page 129, under Common Reloading Problems: Plastic powder funnels often pick up a fair amount of static electricity ... ... ... this is annoying because powder granules stick to the side of the funnel, and you have to keep tapping the funnel to remove the last granule of powder. [Yes, one big hassle. And tapping on the funnel for the next 50 years could give one Reloader's Wrist! I kid you not.] The ABCs of Reloading 10th Edition, page 161: Environmental Conditions conditions that can compromise your safety or loaded ammunition's integrity. static electricity which is never a good thing around powder. Lyman 51st Handloading Handbook, pages 30 and 40: Lyman lab technicians have observed a potential serious phenomenon involving mechanical powder scales, plastic loading blocks, Styrofoam packaging, and other objects made of plastic. These materials sometimes retain static electric charge, enough to create an electro-static field of varying radii. This electro-static field has proven capable of causing radical deflection of uncharged and zeroed scales. Dependent upon circumstances, powder in the scale pan tends to dampen the amount of deflection by varying degrees. We strongly urge that the loading bench be cleared before setting up the scale. Then replace equipment one piece at a time while observing the scale pointer. Any item that causes a scale deflection should be removed from the reloading bench. Metallic Cartridge reloading, Robert S. L. Anderson, page 11: One deadly enemy of the handloader is static electricity, which lurks constantly around anything plastic. An aluminum powder funnel avoids the problem of static electricity generated by the sliding of powder granules across its inner face. However, only Pacific makes aluminum powder funnels. The other makers use plastic, and these can cause erratic powder charges, some of which are excessive. Modern Reloading Second Edition Richard Lee Revised 2021, page 85: What are the causes of excessive pressure? "It seems that some shooters were experiencing hot loads from what should have been quite safe. With much detective work, they found the problem occurred only when loading from the bench and immediately firing the round. Ammunition loaded away from the range worked fine. They discovered that the normal jostling of travel reduced the pressure to correct levels. Accurate recommends that ammunition loaded at the shooting bench be rolled back and forth a couple of times to rearrange the powder granules." [Rolling the cartridges around releases the static charge in the powder due to the use of plastic powder thrower reservoirs, plastic dippers, plastic powder pans, plastic tricklers, plastic funnels, and even plastic loading blocks, as well as any and all plastic primer trays. One should also avoid plastic laminated counter tops too.] page 59: Tony Sailer from CH Tools gave good advise about primers. “Reloading is pretty safe, until you handle primers in quantity.” Tony, a commercial reloader, visits other in the business. He says look at the ceiling above any powered reloading machine and you will see holes above the priming station. Primers in a tube explode with great force and unpleasant regularity. Jim Hulbert, retired from MEC, tested shotshell primers in a seamless tube. When the bottom primer was intentionally detonated, a 1X6 overhead looked as if it had been hit with a 12 gauge shotgun at close range. page 60: Accidentally drop a tube full of primers to a concrete floor and you are going to have one heck of a bang. Possie of TheTexasRAT: And Remember, Wisdom Never Lies Inked Within The Pages Coddle By A Book But Yet Rather Supply About The Inside Of Open Minds That Render The Confound Thereof

Now I’ll round out with a few horror stories - {these are not meant to scare you away from reloading but rather to encourage you to always follow all the safety precautions and heed the warnings in the manuals for a safe and long Handloading journey}. Any Shoot Will Do, The A-Square Handloading and Rifle Manual, page 16: Let’s start with guys who didn’t read the safety chapter. All of these are real incidents involving experienced reloaders. #1, A commercial handloader producing handgun cartridges in quantity used to begin his day by filling a coffee can with primers to pour into the machine. He would pull out each tray and, with a flick of the wrist, empty it into the can. One day he used too much flick: one primer went off, initiating a chain reaction that filled the air with shrapnel and cost him both his eyes." [a commercial reloader that thought about how many rounds he had loaded and never had a problem whereby he did not bother with safety or safety glasses, until one day he wished he had taken heed to the warnings, but it was too late by then.] The Complete Handloader, John Wootters, page 37: The Power of Primers Never under estimate the potency of priming compounds. ... a workman at a priming manufacturing facility was carrying a bucket of loose primers ... and the whole bucket detonated. ... they never found any part of the workman except his shoes. An acquaintance of mine had ... about a hundred rifle primers detonate in a plastic medicine vial in his left hand. He lost his hand and the sight in his left eye, and he underwent a series of operations for cosmetic repairs to his face, arm, and upper body, suffering a great deal of pain, a staggering financial setback, and the loss of part of his livelihood. He was a gunsmith. Primer Precautions Such tragedies illustrate the inherent explosive power of small-arms primers, but they can be avoided totally by understanding and adhering to a few simple precautions. The first is never store primers in any kind of container other than the original factory packaging. The second is go back and reread that last sentence several times. Do not keep live primers, however few, loose in any sort of miscellaneous container, and most especially not one made of glass. A fellow KZbinr told a story of hand priming in his Lazyboy chair when one went off. They found the lid to the primer tray stuck in the ceiling above the chair. According to the story it had just missed his face. So be extra sure not to have it aimed at your face when hand priming with these tools. And safety glasses would be a very good idea as mentioned throughout all the reloading manual over and over again.

Excellent tool and great explanation. 🥇🥇

i watched only for the 45 mag capacity info, i want my 3 minutes back.

The obvious error and what's wrong with the package... Let's see. I'll take a gander. 1rst, and not that it's wrong per se but, it's set up as a Gen 2 with no finger grooves and no rail. 2nd would be that the package is missing the magazines? Thanks for the video.

I stopped using my Dillon case gauge due to to many of my reloads failing. Switch to using the barrel/chamber of the gun l was reloading for. Now lm not failing ammo that shoots perfectly in my guns.

Thanks. It was actually the Hague Convention of 1899 that prohibited the use of expanding bullets in war.

that little spring just broke while reloading. Thanks for the video, that will save me a lot of time

Looks interesting. I would use it to size airgun slugs. What is the hp capacity of the motor and the gearbox ratio? thanks

I hope this Lyman turret press is as good as I think it is from watching video after video on youtube. Because I ordered the complete American 8 kit. Can't wait to get my hands on it. Great video and great channel.

I absolutely like it! 🙂 Thanks for the video Jonathan. It actually made me think of getting another Glock & I always ignored this one because of the small cartridge. A small comment if I may - videography is a mission and masses of work I know. We click on the video because we want to see the content rather than your handsome face - include an intro & outro showing you then just have the camera focus on the subject - please. Only my opinion I know so take it for what it worth.... Thanks again. .

what is the price of the cylencer?

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THIS!!!!!! The priming system SUCKS!!!!! Terrible waste of components. I load around 20 9mm bullets and have to take the entire machine apart!!! The primers land sideways in the shuttle and jam the disc and the primer is destroyed leaving a mess in the disc and jamming it. I have tried everything and called support over 10 times. it just won't work!!!! Terrible design!!! It was a waste of money and a lot of aggravation!!! It is

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THIS!!!!!! The priming system SUCKS!!!!! Terrible waste of components. I load around 20 9mm bullets and have to take the entire machine apart!!! The primers land sideways in the shuttle and jam the disc and the primer is destroyed leaving a mess in the disc and jamming it. I have tried everything and called support over 10 times. it just won't work!!!! Terrible design!!! It was a waste of money and a lot of aggravation!!! It is headed to the TRASH!!! It is never going to work!!!

Worst video I've ever seen

Thanks for the great tip Jonathan. Can't tell you how many times I have looked for those shoes and the spring when trying to reassemble the sticker.

The name of the "hype song" is Danger Zone by Kenny Loggins

@5:08 I’m telling ya my gen 5 mags feed like shit into my gen 3. Any feedback appreciated.

Thanks for this Jonathan. But some closer, very much close-up views would make it easier for okes to actually see the workings. Otherwise, lekka, enjoyabel vids.

Where can you buy this spent primer cup? @shootimgstuff

The reason that the Gen 1 Glock Magazines did not fallout freely was by design because the Glock 17 was originally designed to by a Service Pistol for the Austrian Military and later the Police but the contract requirements stated that Magazines had to Stay in the Pistol EVEN if the Magazine was activated by mistake. The Military and Police did not want to loose the magazine the soldier or police officer would have magazine still in the pistol and all they had to do was to TAP and Rack to get back into the fight.

Can you perhaps teach our ATF agents, who are supposed to be firearms experts, how to disassemble and reassemble a Glock pistol without looking stupid and inept? Love your accent, man.

It’s a South African BXP

I can't help but notice the SMG in the background.