You mean like a plugin for the RCV that displays KZbin comments? That’d be epic.

@ I'll explain better. I would like to live on the KZbin chat video. It would be enough that he had a “youtubechat” widget without using pc/mac. Because I live on board moving cars.

@electricexperiences you don’t need a computer to stream. Only for some of the setup but definitely not to stream! And really, you can do all the critical work on the device itself.

Cool. You saw this video is from 2017, right? I don’t know that Senal even existed then.

I feel like you didn’t watch the video…

@@photojoseph Not sure what makes you say that. I watched it multiple times. If you don't want to answer the question, I think it's fine. If you presume all your viewers are pro and understand everything you say, then maybe I am not one. I would admit that because I am just getting started with videography with my Lumix S5IIX.

@Photo-N-Pursuit my apologies. I thought it was clear in the video that all that was needed was the gimbal and the camera. That’s the whole point of this setup; you get Active Track with just the LUMIX camera and the gimbal (supported models noted early in the video). I’m sorry again for making incorrect assumptions.

@@photojoseph At least it wasn't clear to me. I was analyzing your setup, looking for the transmitter. Then, I thought the mic mounted on your camera was the transmitter. Perhaps, include something like "how to use Active tracker in DJI and Lumix without the Ronin transimtter". Sorry for the trouble.

Fair enough!

No. You’re still recording internally. The ATEM will record indefinitely (only limited by the size of the connected drive), but the 4K recording is still internal to your camera. The only way around that limitation is to add 4K, recorders, externally, in between each camera and the ATEM.

The format of the videos that the RCV wants is pretty specific. Check the manual to be sure you made them as needed. But also are you sure you had audio from the video player enabled?

Ah, then the way they are dimming is the problem. They dim by reducing their frequency. You’ll be able to choose a brightness and find a shutter angle to match (assuming you have syncroscan), but you likely won’t be able to avoid flicker throughout the dim cycle.

Hope you got some great photos!

I’m using BM’s own cloud storage service actually. The 20GB pricing tier is sufficient for proxies. As for Dropbox and my entire backup, that’s another story. I’m grandfathered in for a few more years, but I’m already testing other solutions. I’m currently running a complete backup to Backblaze b2, which does cost quite a bit more than my Dropbox solution (for now) but it’s the cheapest of the big boys and it is a true backup system, not just a file mirroring system

@ awesome, I’m thinking of using backblaze b2 to get an actual back up system without having to buy another NAS to back up, but only if it’s worth it.

@JimLifts the main advantage of course is its offsite. And, you have infinite growth capacity and only pay for what you use. But it’s still likely more expensive in the long run. If you sign up use my affiliate link please! jal.bz/bzbackup

You bet!

Oh really! That’s funny; I would’ve thought everybody would say that. Glad it was able to help you!

@@photojoseph No, they tell you how to make it, say if you have the extreme you have buttons... and nothing on how to assign to the buttons. Side note... these macros definitely get tricky based on what is "on" before you build it. I made macro 1, worked great coming out of startup save settings. Built macro 3, also great from startup save. AND pressing macro 3 after pressing macro 1 wreaked havoc on my display and had a real tough time even figuring out how to get it to play normal without unplugging it. haha. Re-recorded each to make sure all background that could be on was deselected before starting into the macro based on either main presentation mode I might use.... though I guess in hindsight, that could be another macro... go back to startup, then press the next macro. or maybe a combo macro that combines a startup reset with the original macro 1. Figuring that out as I type this... oof. I've got some playing around to do. ;-)

@JeffKuhn here’s the thing about macros. I always say this when I’m teaching how to make macros, but this video wasn’t about how to make macros so I don’t think I mentioned it. This is going to sound very obvious, but think about it. A macro will only do what you tell it to do. Nothing more, nothing less. So if you don’t tell it to turn off that lower third that you might have turned on some other point in your show, then it doesn’t know to turn that off. This is simultaneously very powerful and very confusing.

Here’s how you get clean HDMI out. kzbin.infofxjm3RsXBEc?si=nhTDyNw2OPLq4YnA and if you want to record on an Atomos then you need a Ninja or better. The Shinobi II is a monitor only.

On the LUMIX you can swap between the PiP “focus punch in” and full screen. I just didn’t show that here. And thanks for the tip on the adapter; I’ve responded to your other comment about it. Very interesting!

I haven’t tested 4K60p but I’d imagine it’s just a black screen. That’s what I’ve experienced with other monitors. And you’re welcome for the quality of the video. I try! ☺️

@@photojoseph so just for clarification I fi was shooting 4k60 on the gh7 would I not be able to monitor it with the shinobi ii OR I would but the signal would be downscaled (the recording to camera would still be 4k60 for example but the monitor would be showing a downscaled version, is that right?)

If you’re shooting 4K60 then the output for monitoring needs to be downscaled, which will by default happen automatically. If you look in HDMI output settings you’ll find ability to force a resolution or let it automatically adapt to whatever is plugged in.

Hey, thank you!!

Oh no! I’ve had no problems on LUMIX cameras. That sucks! Have you talked to Atomos about it?

@@photojoseph Lucky. Yeah have an ongoing ticket with them. Although I'm having a hard time getting across what I'm seeing. Not sure how I could make it any clearer though. Suspect language barrier. Funnily enough I'm getting the same issues on my R7. I'm aware it's not officially supported. However I've totally given up on the whole camera control aspect of this monitor. Just causes so many headaches.

Record a video of the problem. Might be the easiest way to communicate it. Sorry man; good luck!

Interesting. I think I’ve proven that this lens is quite sharp. Maybe you had a bad copy. Bummer!

Knowing what the actual error messages are would be much more helpful.

Got it kinda fixed. Just hat to go in this movie manual mode. Than everything was available except the 120 Frames and more. Guess than I need and CF express?​@@photojoseph

@florianweigel7332 ah, great. And yeah that sounds right. On every recording page it tells you what media you can record to! Check that out and you’ll know for sure.

Unless the RCV gets bitfocus Companion support then combining them would be tedious. However the RCV does green screen (chroma keying) - sound like you didn’t watch this full video 😉

@@photojoseph You're right, I skipped to the part where you talk about what's missing, and you say there is no reasonable way to play videos with transparency, so I assumed you can't use a green screen. I have seen that Aaron Parecki found a workaround, but just thought that since I already have an ATEM, I could use that. My bad, I'll go back and watch the whole video.

Thanks. It has a very good and easy keyer - but you can’t apply a key to a video it’s playing back.

Then you should look into ATEM Mini Extreme.

It’s a shame for sure. Price of being that small I think.

Use an adjustable close focus adapter, this solves the problem and allows you to get quite close. A close focus adapter basically has another focus ring on it, performs like a standard adapter until you need to get close. Depending on what lens you are using it with, things can get a bit dreamy, but the center sharpness of this lens remains good even when you are quite close.

@jamescaldwell5 this is… fascinating. I just looked at the “7artisans Photoelectric Close Focus Adapter for Leica M Lens to Leica L Camera” on B&H - that’s what you’re talking about, right?

@ yes.

Ordered!

Sorry you didn’t like it.

That’s weird. Are you sure the update installed? Does it show 11.02 in the info page?

@@photojoseph Yes, it's showing 11.02.00 in version. I tried reformatting the SD Card and reinstalled it again and still only Atomos and ARRI modes. I guess I'll email Atomos to see what they say

@philddlesticks do you have a LUT loaded? I wonder if that could have anything to do with it?

@@photojoseph ok I think I've figured out why it wasn't working, in the monitor Input settings it needs Log/HDR enabled by the looks of things. :)

Oh interesting! Good to know, thanks for letting me know.

I definitely recommend this. If it’s in your budget it’s extremely capable and easy to use.

You're welcome!

Glad you like it! But I’m not sure what you’re asking for. That’s what this video is.

@@photojoseph Respected Sir, You've explained it in your video at 21:03. Moreover that video link that you pinned is also helpful. Thank you so much. 🥰❤

Huh?

Awesome!

Thanks man!

If you see v-Log as a color profile then you have it

@@photojoseph I dont have it, but I can only move in the direction that supports low light, is this the best lwo light set up, Vlog and 12 stops of dynamic range? I hate grain

Noise (not grain) is a product of high ISO, so if you want cleaner footage, you need more light. V-Log isn’t going to help there. More light = lower ISO. You can also add de-noising in post.

Then it sounds like you’re shooting underexposed and lifting up the shadows. Shoot slightly overexposed then darken in post, and that should hide the noise. You’ll have more flexibility in grading with V-Log and the extra dynamic range is always helpful - but it’s not going to magically fix your noise. You need to shoot differently than you are

@@photojoseph sadly I am run in gun in a rain state, light is a blessing when I get off work, and carrying lights isnt practical for moving subjects, let alone distant ones Im not sure I realize that Im doing that or the approach to combat as there are shadow and high light curve settings IA mode doesnt seem to lag when I stare at black, my manual modes lag bad when starring at black auto iso is on and capped at 1600 in cine d and 3200 in hlg You say life the exposure when aviable which id assume means when exp isnt, low the shutter/ closer to the frame rate

Glad you enjoyed it! You saw Slovenia and Croatia 😊

@@photojoseph Yes I know, know pretty well everything. I hope you enjoy Maribor .

You don't need to buy a separate adapter -- buy the one labeled for "Leica/Panasonic/Sigma L" (oh I see, the amazon listing doesn't show the options… weird. Buy it direct maybe? Or find any Leica M to L mount adapter) geni.us/iW5W0B

It is sold with the lens on their website. Just get that one.

It’s not an apple product and it is available on windows.

Okk now it turned on but that was scary.

Yikes! Glad it’s all good now.

Also 65w

You only need 27W so yeah that should work

Well… if your camera is sideways, then so will the monitor be.

Not without troubleshooting it personally. All I can say is do it again and ensure every step is followed precisely. These written instructions might help. photojoseph.com/moment/most-important-atem-video-youll-watch-use-any-camera-original-atem-iso-re-edits/20638

@@photojoseph thank you. ill try it out

Sorry I don’t have anything like that prepared. But it’s the same sensor as the S5II if you can find footage from that camera.

Is it? I hadn’t tested that; that’s curious. Where did you come across that info?

I think what you’re asking for is a “stinger”. An animation that plays over a transition so you don’t see the transition - for example, you have a supersource with two talking heads, and animation flies across the screen, then a new layout is revealed. Is that right? If so, search “making ATEM stingers” on KZbin.