Thank you! 😁 I do love me some slide guitar! 🎸🎸🤣

Glad this helps! That's a big span, especially since you have a living space above, I think the only way to determine the proper lentil size/length is to hire an engineer! Just like I did on my build, I would also hire this out to a reputable contractor. Good luck and be safe!

@@LongshotGarage I meant to say that it would be for a 36 inch entry door

@@Darren_New_Life Oh, just a 3 ft wide door. If that's the case there are calculators online to help you figure out the proper size for your situation. Especially with the door, and if I was doing it myself, I would definitely do one side at a time to make sure there was always support. There are a few good videos on KZbin about doing just what you want to do.

Yeah, not a fan of particle board, but you can't expect plywood at these prices. 😁

It seems that most people do. How do you do it?

I wasn't saying that's how they were going to do it, I was referring to a comment that was from the original post. I've also been told by other people that's how it's typically done.

Nothin' wrong with that!

Thanks!

Thanks! I would say install the cabinets first, but space them up the thickness of the flooring so you don't lock in the dishwasher. I don't mind installing cabs over solid, ceramic tile, but would be less comfortable putting them over lamanite as I believe it's supposed to float or move -- it just doesn't sound solid enough. And, if you ever have to change or replace the laminate flooring it will be easier if you don't install the cabinets over it.

Thanks! Pretty sure it was 1/2 inch. Let me know how it works with the thicker stuff.

You're right, I should have. Sadly, I always work alone, I reposition the sawhorse so that the piece wouldn't fall. I actually did use the circular saw to cut the last small bits at each end, taking my time, and being very careful.

I'm pretty confident that laminate is a great countertop choice as far as actual use goes. And I'm pretty sure it's fairly if not very stain resistant, but not 100%. If you are concerned, I would just do a little Google research and that might help make the choice easier.

@@LongshotGarage thank you

You're welcome, glad I could help! I installed some 3/4 inch mdf on top of the lazy Susan, like I did on top of the other cabinets to space up/support the countertop. I didn't attach anything to the wall itself below the countertop behind the lazy Susan. but your comment got me thinking it wouldn't hurt To add something, just below the back edge of the countertop, to the wall that would support the very back of the lazy Susan. Granted, as I remember there was only one stud I probably could have attached to. If you have space I suggest trying to add something -- better too much support than not enough! Good luck!

Sounds like you've done this before! 😁 I mean, you gotta get that deposit back! 🤣

Good to know, I hadn't thought about that.

@@LongshotGarage it's a 15 amp motor and if you read reviews on HD, etc., pretty much all 1-star reviews are from people whose saws ended up with burned motors. They plug it in a 15amp circuit, add a vacuum and there goes the motor.

Simple enough to switch out to a 20 amp breaker.

I do know what you are talking about but sadly I have no idea where to get that or how to install it. Any luck finding videos elsewhere on KZbin?

So I searched google and found it (?) on Home Depot site. T-cove inside corner profile edging trim.....let's see...I'll ;et you know how it works out! Thanks for your response and looking forward to more of your videos :)

Awesome! That's what I do when I need something, sell off what I'm not using. Already sold my smaller Ridgid Jobsite saw and almost covered the new one. After I clean up the Craftsman, I should come out money ahead so I can buy more tools! 🤣

@@LongshotGarage I don't know what to sell to get a CNC, maybe the wife? Idk? 😜

What's an old school sponge?

Around 220 or 320, anything too agressive and you'll have to sand out the scratches. Foam sanding blocks help reduce edge grooves. Oh, and don't sand the drywall paper too much.

@@LongshotGarage bro I had this dry wall guy come and he didn’t have a sponge and I can notice it on the edges

Wow! 😳 I've never had cabinets installed and didn't realize how much it cost. This is one of the big reasons I'm a DIYer, I'm cheap! 🤣

Nice! I mean, except for your back. 😁 Glad you scored one. I just sold my smaller Ridgid for $300, so after I sell the Craftsman I should be money ahead.

I followed the instructions close, but not too close! 🤣 Yeah, there were a few times I just had to wing it and do what seemed right. In the end I didn't so was much backtracking, so I guess it's fairly easy to figure out!

Did you have any issues with the extension wings having a “dip” in the center? I can’t seem to get it flat.

@@GaryPopov-zm9ys No, mine were fine. I would contact them if the wings seem bent. Or, replace them with a router table! 🤔

Is that my grade? 🤣

Good luck! 🤣

Home depot is running it at 41% off right now. $399

@@40ozFatality Sweet, thanks for the heads up sir, very much appreciated.

Hopefully! 😁 I actually did a short video of people finding it in another 30 years and freaking out. 🤣

Have you used the rigid? Which do u like better?

@@robertseele6319 i like ridgid a lot better noise feel like nothing compares to jobsite ones. Also compact enough to put onto my workbench. I had to cut bit of rails as my workbench is 3x5 only

@@cafealpha82 thanks

Are you me? I also replaced the noisy Skil jobsite saw with this recently. Dust collection is really bad, but otherwise very happy.

@@ShastaOrange for me it is equally bad as skil saw. I hope it supports dust collection above the blade like more expensive brand. I would prob build my own dust collection port for it. Otherwise i am happy with it :)

Thank you! 😁

I use 220 a lot. Nothing too aggresive or you'll have to sand out the deep scratches.

@@jerridavis6462 Thank you! 😁

@@Splitchipsonblack1011 Thanks! I just figure it's cheap insurance for heavy countertops.

You're welcome! It did work pretty well for what it was, but adding sand to the inside of the pipe would make it work even better. Never thought of that, glad you mentioned it.

@LongshotGarage Auto correct really kicked my backside on my comment 🤣(have updated). Sand is supposed to help prevent the pipe kinking when bending.

@@danielc6034 LOL, happens to me all the time. I have heard about using sand like that before but it didn't cross my mind for this. the conduit did want to kink so that might be a solution.

It's just that, a long aluminum straight edge. It comes in two pieces and attaches together at the handle. I got this at Home Depot right next to the framing squares and levels. I use it a lot as a fence for my circular saw, kind of like a track saw.

Yeah I guess they don't sell it anymore I can't find it online anywhere looking for the exact one you have that two will be so useful in a lot of things that I do for DIY projects if you happen to know the model maker or any of the information that will be most helpful I'm in the same boat as you but I'm trying to decide on finishing unfinished cabinets or buying the diamond cabinets like you have

You basically just attach the wood to the drywall. Carefully screw through the drywall and into the wood strip itself, pulling it tight up against the back of drywall.

Thank you!

Thank you so much @jnet59, this is my first ever Super Thanks! 😁

Thanks, glad I could help!

Of course! Osha approved, I think. Okay, not really. It probably would be a good idea to wear some decent shoes when using power tools.

I don't think so. It would just flop around in the middle and be kind of worthless. I could see getting away with fewer posts though.

@@LongshotGarage fewer posts....that would help matters; thanks

Thanks!

Not too agressive. I tend to like 220. Check out foam backed sand paper too.