It's an insignificant video.

Hi Jason, the starter retracts like it should, but I did notice that at full extension it only engages with about half the teeth on the flywheel. That doesn't seem to cause an issue but it does seem odd.

Hey Danny, there was nothing wrong with the truck, I was just playing around

@@mct75 I see what you mean. Other commenters are trying to fix something.

I just got this one, it is a 1976 35HP. Seems to be in great shape!

@@mct75 i loved mine . Literally fired up instantly every time for years I mean I did nothing to it but beat the shit out of it and drive it all day long during the summer times didn't fog it didn't do shit during the winter time besides put a little seafoam and stable in it

That's just the sound carburetors make, at idle the throttle plate has a lot of suction

Correct, way too much play. The '90 to '94 flanges were shorter and often had excess wear like mine here. The solution is to upgrade to a birfield and flange from a '95 or newer, which I did.

@@mct75 thnx for the reply! I'm doing a knuckle rebuild on my bj60 and I was considering changing out the drive flanges but they seem pretty tight compared to some of the examples of worn out ones I've found.

Hola lo siento pero no tengo el camión nunca más. Asegúrese de que todos los pasajes estén limpios y que los enlaces se muevan libremente, lo que solucionó el mío.

I don't have the truck anymore, but the only lines you need are the two that go to the distributor. Learn what each vacuum system does and how it interacts with the engine, then remove it all and plug everything except those two distributor lines.

@@mct75 well I have a all stock 22r with a Asian carb and I don't want to buy a Weber but I want to try to delete all the emissions shit

Yep, the secondary butterfly was fused shut so I removed the linkages and some of the choke crap for that side. Engine ran great until about 3000 RPM then started to fall off (without the secondary it was hurting for air) but you don't need to be redlining a 30 year old truck anyway.

@@mct75 Cool. I have done very similar and put also put a block plate over the EVAP port as well as a block plate for the AAP and Choke Breaker. Still using the electric choke though. Great to have it simplified. :)

@@james4878 Nice! I was amazed at how little of an impact most of the ancillary systems have on how the engine runs. The AAP on mine had a ruptured diaphragm so I blocked it and it accelerated fine once it warmed up for a few minutes.

@@mct75 Yeah exactly! Just needs to warm up and then you're good to go! The fast idle even works perfectly without the automatic releasing mechanisms as you can just turn that off with a little bump of the gas pedal. :)

Mine hasn't blown out, but doesn't do much for getting me my heat early in the mornings. It does seem to help cold starts though.

@@mct75 Oh I know what you mean. I have a 85' 4WD with one, doesn't do much. Tried to install one in my other 85' 4WD... Not so much luck.

He wants to be the mysterious stranger

Hopefully it's an easy one to get to!

Ajust the air mixture screw out slowly (to the left) and if this doesn’t increases or smoothen the idle then slowly turn the screw in until the idle slows or sputters manipulate this screw until you find a smooth idle, if you still have a poor idle then adjust the idle speed screw out(to the left) to increase the idle speed

Your distributor cap and rotor can not get wet at all, you should try changing those out also the spark plugs, I have an 86 extra cab long bed and runs like a champ.

I have replaced them wires & plugs too

Check your map sensor cuz ive taken my 85 runner bogging and its swallowed water but always stayed on til it spit it all out but my map sensor gave out and it started doing that. I say try there.

It seems to be a gas problem, check fuel pressure, check if your fuel injectors are pulsing, check if your sparks plugs fire. If everything checks OK but you injectors do not work, then it could be : injectors open circuit, your computer or maf sensor ,,,,in that order. Good luck!

@Shiloh Lopez it is not the motor . the motor runs great .

@MrWolfsack more like your life is

There are a few vacuum lines that go from the pan to the manifold, and I have all those plugged. In fact I have every single vacuum line plugged except for the two that go to the distributor.

mct75 would be the reason why your secondary doesn’t open at all, major loss of power. Those stock carbs need a couple other items then just distributor advance to be able to run properly and help vehicle start easier. Should only delete everything if your switching to aftermarket carb but you cut out all the good things about the stock carb

وشقاعد يسوي ؟

Bradda your weber carb butterfly stuck open.

For sure!

I live in a mild climate, but in the winter time around freezing temps it would stumble for a few minutes if you stomped on it. I was able to gently open the throttle and avoid this. After it warms up for ~5 minutes it is fine (and the BVSV would have isolated the AAP anyway by that point so it's out of the equation) Yes, a bolt in the FCS. I actually had to do this once I removed the vacuum switch on the PS fender. There's a deceleration fuel cut system that was causing it to stumble on the highway. It would sometimes diesel, but if the idle speed was adjusted properly there were no issues. I would normally keep the idle around 650 or 700 and it was perfectly fine. On warmer days the idle will increase so I was having to adjust it every few weeks. Not a big deal, especially because my idle screw was loose enough to turn by hand! The manual choke works so much better than the automatic one ever did. I found that if the temperature was above 50 or so, just pumping the gas about 3 times with no choke was sufficient to have it fire right up and run great.

mct75 that helped. thanks a lot. I was thinking about manual choke conversion just for fun but sounds like having a bit more control would definitely be ideal. right now I can't get the gas to lift the float up to the sight unless I have my aftermarket electric pump straight to the carb. two stock manual pumps I have seem to be a bit weak. however the electric is a bit too strong at 5-9 psi... finally going to put a T after the fuel filter and back into the existing return line and stop using the stock pump altogether. if I get my power without hesitation then I'll know it was fuel delivery to the carb

It sounds like you might need to adjust the tabs on the float. That sets the level. At idle it only takes like 0.25 PSI to keep the fuel in the bowl. If you're having to jack up the pressure, the level might be too low and you're just relying on fuel forcing itself past the float needle. Definitely get that sorted before you start adjusting anything else.

mct75 very interesting insight. it'd explain why my dads iffy on my weak pump idea. thats not a lot of pressure and I know the stock one I have is pushing more than that so... the bowl should fill unless that tab is not calibrated.

For reference, if my bowl was empty I could just take the fuel line off, and pour gas down it and the bowl would fill up from the gravity alone. If the level isn't right when the engine is off/idling it probably isn't the pump. You can always take the line off and crank the motor over, just see what comes out. Be careful though.

probably full