Broke one of my Nylons Tuner Heads last week, went to multiple local music shops including Guitar Center, none of which had any just "laying around", like it were something needing to be sweep up at the end of each night or something lol. Granted I wasn't talking to their Techs but they acted as if I was the first person ever to come in asking about them. Next day I went into shop when I knew their tech would be in and he charged me $1 It's not always as simple as you say and in the meantime one must do what one must do. I used pliers for a few days but mine looked nothing like that one and replacement worked np. Seriously whomever took pliers to that Guitar was a Butcher. If you gotta go a Night or two, just be careful.

is it NOT marked on the Orange drop??? =/ I mean a simple + / - symbol would SOLVE this confusion

64ths? 32nds? How can people live like that? There's a reason most countries reformed their unit systems last millennium. That being said excellent information in this video.

Thanks Daddy!

Ya this is the second time this donk said solid to solid back .The fg865 is all solid, but you have to special order it

Great video thanks. So the black plate of the pickup should be grounded, too, right ?

Perfectly articulated!

I was today years old when I learned why "crowning" is so important. Thanks!

Adirondack spruce has wider grain pattern. The best.

I just received my Yamaha ft3 made in China and it is flawless. The action was perfect. It does have the plastic nut and doesn't seem to affect the tuning stability. I am now a big Yamaha fan.

So if I buy one of these through GC or Sweetwater etc, where can I get these mods done?

You better use grease! Works fine for the matal! Not Wax... Wax is for candle and is fragile...

You mean to say the direction of these capacitors isn't standardized in relation to the print? You have to test every single one to find out? Wow, that sucks.

Thank you man, this is an important thing for any musician to know, especially if you under fire w/ no backup guitar. I would recommend taking a picture before removing the switch for correct orientation and I used 70 percent iso alcohol cause I'm cheap. Thanks for the video!

Hi, Great vieo. Could you please explain what the white part added to the saddle used for?

1:17 Damn Neil Young in a guitar demo is something I can say I've never heard (song is Old Man)

I have a guitar that appears to have have hazy areas on the backside. My understanding is that it’s from too much humidity? Curious what someone would recommend in this case.

The string worked marvelously! I could not get a slip knot to work but I tied the simplest overhand knot around the pins and they came right out. Thanks for the tip!

i do not have a tone knob

1:33 can't you buy a knockoff fret rocket and rectify all the faces and make it work flawlessly?

That's good advice for more than just your guitar...

What about using ebony (or other hardwood) for nut material for an electric guitar?

did you mean don't "ever" glue your nut?

Came here through the bridge pin removal video, figured I could use a refresher on stringing. You definitely helped me up my game!

A few years ago, I convinced the store where I bought one of my acoustics of this very problem. They conceeded when I insisted they check. A marked improvement when they corrected the "flaw".

Hey Drew thought I’d leave a comment saying hi. About a decade ago you taught me how to refret a takamine neck (among other luthier- esque skills). Fun times. Still have that takamine and to this day I use guitar knowledge I learned from you back then. Hope all is well.

It still seems there on your High E when you strumed the g chord. I have the same problem when I strum chords on my tailor GS acoustic. Mainly on the treble and D string, the same High pitched ring is there. And its a very High end guitar. This problem hasn't always been there until recently. I've tried everything to the point I don't even want to pic it up. Shame because it was a beautiful guitar to play , not to mention expensive. Great trouble shooting vid to watch. But I still can't find the problem. Cheers mate

Hi Drew Can you talk about what to do about the last six frets buzz and hump at the body and what you can do? This seems to me to be a problem many acoustic guitars have weather there new or old.. any suggestions?

Thanks for this, very cool. Always heard the guitar caps orientation doesn't matter. I've always have a feeling it does. Need to make that gadget right now. Subed! Spokane here by the way.

Thanks for this! I've been hunting the source of hum in my dual LA2A I just built, and narrowed it down to either a ground issue, a tube issue or an issie with the orange drop caps I have i btween both the triodes in the firsr part of the amp stage. I would touch the orange drop that was physically positioned inbetween both tubes in the amp stage (this is why I couldn't ruel out the tubes) andit would basically do what you are showing in this vid! I bought a couple of solen fast caps to replace them, but they havven't arrived yet, so now I'm going to switch the polarity of the orange drop and see if that fixes it! Ta for the insight! I had no idea these changed in performance with polarity. But seeing the diagram makes it obvious why that is!

Cheers buddy, I successfully fitted one using the second option wood drill bit, just to add that at the beginning I slow sped the bit in reverse which gently got thru the top finish first, more as a scoring action to prevent any tear away. My sharp bit actually got in a couple MM in reverse, creating a nice starting point for the then slow forward drilling.

Mine has a poly finish on the fretboard and neck. And I absolutely hate it. No idea why anyone would make one with such a sticky finish. I love how my guitar sounds but not how it feels. And it needs ss frets. What can I do to strip it a reseal it with something more satin/matte feeling?

Hey There! Yeah on this guitar it seems really terrible. But what if - after a best possible setup on my saddle I sanded off on high E string to the lowest possible value, just a little bit left, so that the string will not touch the bridge. But anyways - I still have 2.0mm on High E with healthy neck relief (as you said, business card, maybe a bit less than that). It seems that wooden past of the bridge is high enough to be sanded off, but I really dont wanna do this, as the guitar is still on warranty (8 months old). Does it mean that I have to apply my warranty opportunity and ask for a neck reset? Ideally I would like to prepare: 1st: 1.5mm, 2nd: 1.7mm, 3rd: 1.9mm, 4th: 2.1mm, 5th: 2.3mm, 6th: around 2.8mm. But 1-2 strings are 100% not manageble to get such values.

Drew, thanks for this very informative video. I have been through one hell of time with nuts on my guitars! Lol. It all started with my LP Goldtop. I couldn't get the guitar to stay in tune to save my life. It went to 3 different luthiers that were out of town and I wasn't satisfied. Now that I know what a nut should really look like, it blows my mind that they were so lazy. They didnt even polish the nut. I finally got tired of driving 2 hours everytime I needed to take my guitar in. I then bought a Strat a few months later so I decided I needed to invest in some files fo teach myself. Ive gone through God knows how many nuts to get it right. Im still not 100% there but very close. Now I have all sorts of files, tools, vices, and all sorts of stuff, and it definitely makes the job easier. This is the type of video that ppl like me need. Lots of ppl have heard of the tap method that you showed, but not many ppl explain how much of a gap you should have. I subscribed to your channel and will be checking out more videos.

This was very helpful. I bought a guitar winder/cutter/pin puller tool because I used to use pliers and wrap the bridge pins in tissue. I thought the tool might break but I used a business card and leverage like you showed me.

Thanks for the review. Hats off To Alejandro for his rather amazing guitars. Both sets sound quite good. It's all about touch regardless of strings. And regardless what level you are at if you shape and buff your nails the scratching (as heard in the 'm' finger) goes away and wow does it matter. Great guitars are great amplifiers of sound but they don't discriminate between good tone production and bad tone production.

Man’s Road by America. Great song

It’s not coming out-

Heaven's above. Just put a good straight edge down the frets and see where it meets the bridge. It should be about 1/8" or so above it. If it is more than an eighth below it a neck reset is required. Good explanation of the reasoning but the test is simple.

Very helpful! Thanks so much for the detail and information.

nice tuturials

👍

That’s a great variation on the subject. I would definitely use that rather than messing around with $$ equipment. I did watch Carlson’s Lab and I repeat the question I had there… How hard would it have been to mark the dang things during production??

@ 19:50 there is a great vocal noise! Thank you

I thought my practice guitar had low frets, but compared to your example, they're mountains. Think I need to take more off the sides. Thanks.

The tunning peg & string roller for my g string is odd. It randomly locks and is extremely difficult to tune up. Im currently tuned to D# Standard as I feel that if I tune to E standard it'll snap or explode.

You absolute hero!

You should stretch new strings before setting intonation. It also greatly depends on how hard you press the string at the 12th fret

My neck bolt fell out yesterday and I only bought guitar from local shop in August! So had it for 9 months.

I've struck gold.