What material the 4 white seals are made of ? I'm currently rebluiding a steering rack and I have to change those seals too. Unfortunately it's no longer available for my car so i try to source them with hydraulic seals suppliers... If you have any idea it would help a lot ! (based in France)

Hey buddy, I am interested in the car. You can get back with me.

what a legend mate im in process of putting in power steering in my trumpy 2500 and your video was awesome to watch before i service the rack before i install it as it was covered in oil. that seal that you mention in ya video that doesnt come in the kit do you know what it is or where i can obtain one. thanks gain.

Hey mate. Just for info a few things I have found with mine......... I have a Dolomite Sprint and a Stag, so have both manual gearboxes, and ended up with a spare Sprint one for parts as well. When my Stag was an automatic, I wanted to change it to a manual, and had an old spare Sprint box so looked at what it took to put that in mine. The gearboxes share a lot of the same components, apparently case etc, but the major differences are ratios, and the layshaft thrust bearing arrangement. The Stag has roller races, wheras the Sprint only has thrust washers, not races. Also the Stag input shaft is a lot larger/heavier, obviously for the larger clutch and higher input torque. So I ended up buying everything from a "donor wreck" manual, and converted mine to manual about 2005. But the top covers are the same/interchangeable. Well, they should be as they share the same part number. Mine is leaking at the moment from the o rings at the rear of the selector rails, and I have a refurbished top cover ready to go on, but I have been meaning to do it for ages, but keep putting it off, as too lazy to drop the box. Good that you brought up the "some have the cover some don't". When I say "they are interchangeable" there are those two types, with that small difference. Some have no opening on the top of the top cover, wheras some have a square hole into the cavity where the selector rails are on the rear extension, and there is a small square sheet steel cover like yours has. NONE of the parts books I have show that. show that, but I have one of each top covers here, same as you have. I modified my selectors, because I was so used to having the overdrive only on 4th in my Jag and loved it, so mine on the Stag is modified so that O/D ONLY comes on in 4th, not in 3rd like they come standard. Most will say "why not just not use it inb 3rd then?", but I have my reasons. The Sprint is still "O/D on both 3rd and 4th", but I hardly ever drive that now anyway (been off the road for ten years, stored at my Dad's.) Triumph got lazy with some of the things on these boxes. Those plugs for the selector springs are a terrible idea, the sedan manuals (so possibly some early Stags) had screw in plugs there, far better than "press in/hard to get out" etc etc. Same with the shift lever. The earlier gearboxes on the sedans (same design) had the side bolts with pins on their ends, and there was an adjustment routine. Then they just abolished that and just have "bolts that do up" and the non adjust routine supercedes that. Also in early manuals they talk about shimming those switches so they operate properly. While some poeople sell the shims, the later parts lists and manuals just say "fit the switch with gasket washer", no mention of any adjustment, and later parts lists don't mention them, wheras early ones say "as required", ie multiple to shim them. When I overhauled mine on my Stag, those square headed bolts that hold the selector forks were VERY tight, so I got a 5/16 (I think) unf nut and filed the inner dia square, slid that over the square head bolt, and then used a 1/2 inch socket to undo them. Again, earlier versions I have seen had holes drilled in those square headed bolts for lock wires, later ones deleted them. I love seeing half your bits and pieces, as saves me going and dragging my bits out to remind me of some things. :-) Although today I revisited my spare starters that I will rebuild based on being reminded by your starter vid. Good to see.

If stuck after sitting for a while, a screwdriver levered against the teeth will usually free it, but be careful of course. Then they will soemtimes just turn by hand, although need firm pressure, but usually some sort of lever will move them. The book says all Stags have a M418G starter...... I have a couple of spares here somewhere, but can't find them, I'll have to have a look tomorrow. But the point is, the one on my Stag, and the spare ones are all Lucas 2M100 starters, not M418G type. My Dolomite Sprint has an identical body marking, but the end cap is different, three mounting bolts from memory, rather than the Stags two. Judging by the book spec and measurements I have made, the 2M starter is less current/lighter duty, so strange they would do that, but is what my cars have. These are series induction motors, as the field is in series with the armature. The reason is that a series induction motor has greater torque as the load increases, so for our high load/low speed use, this type is far better than a shunt wound induction motor. Be careful testing starters, that is just "flash" them and run for a short time/not up to full speed. They aren't designed to run at high speed unloaded, and (apparently) can shed commutator segments. I haven't run one flat out long enough to find out. Just remember there are two large terminals and two small ones. The two small ones can be confusing, as they are usually referred to as "ignition" and "start". The start one goes to the "ignition switch" start connections to activate the solenoid. Wheras the "ignition" one goes to the coil, and puts full battery voltage onto the coil, but ONLY while cranking. When the car starts and the starter releases, that terminal becomes dead, and the car reverts to the 6 volt coil supply that is dropped by either a separate ballast resistor or (more usually) the resistance wire that is in the wiring loom. There are two separate solenoid windings, a "pull in" and a "hold on". The hold on is low current (17 amps), but the pull in, while only on for a fraction of a second, is very high at approx 80 amps, so I always back up ign switches with a relay. Those figures are for the M418G, the 2M is slightly lower. But you probably knew all that already. 🙂

Hey mate, very interesting. I have been through a lot of water pumps, as I used to do a lot of miles in my car, and have had it for 31 years/done 330,000 kms in it. I made the mistake of buying a new Unipart water pump about 6 years into ownership, and it was one of the ones that didn't have the drive gear hardened properly. It shredded the gears and took the jackshaft with it. After that I used to use second hand known shafts, but eventually ran out of them, so ended up fitting an elec pump, which was the LAST thing I wanted to do, but had little option by then as "known good shafts" became rare. At least as important as the bearing is the bush that is in the block for the other end of the shaft. If that is worn, the shaft will move enough to possibly damage the drive gear. Well worth checking, and any doubt - get a new one. There is a special tool for removing them, but I could never find anyone selling them, so I just collapsed mine inward, then it just pulls out, then press in the new one. You are correct, usually just turning the top bolt will "unscrew" the WP from the block by driving the skew gears against each other/drives it up and out. But if the shaft comes out and leaves the brass "basket" behind, it is easy enough to use a slide hammer to pull it out. You can use a hook on the end, but what is better is to use an oval washer or a small bar that will angle through the bottom, hook to the slide hammer, comes out. I have never had a problem getting them out. But be careful. I got a block from a "professional" and when I got it, it had two huge gouges in the water pump mounting surfaces where he had used a slide hammer and a hook, and the hook gouged the holes. I wouldn't have bought that block if I had known it was butchered like that. I have removed water pumps from at least half a dozen Stag blocks, and NEVER damaged those surfaces............ but this bloke managed to. Anyway, keep up the interesting vids. 🙂

I am so glad to see video of your '71 engine oil pan and work you're doing on the engine. You give me hope. I still have the intact 1963 Triumph TR4 car I bought in 1979. The car would start but engine knock was severe. Inspection revealed milky oil and water with severe crankshaft, piston/cylinder wear (and everthing else). I sealed the car for a total project rebuilt in the future. Every year I look to create a planned resurrection of the '63 TR4. This may be the start of the resurrection. Thank you!

Sounds like an interesting job. Good luck. Bob

I built the same for my Stag around 10-12 months ago. The whole thing is portable and I can move it between cars. Because the 'sniffer' is mounted at the end of the pipe it will read a couple points lean compared to an O2 sensor where it should be mounted.

I’m pretty sure I have the same problem. When the tank is full, the gauge only shows 3/4 full. When grounded … the gauge certainly goes all the way to full when I ground that wire. I also THINK my voltage stabilizer is putting out the right voltage. (Tough to measure). So … maybe the float leaked? Were you able to solder it up and seal it back up? I may have to resort to that.

Should run at about 45 - 50 when travelling, looks about perfect !

very helpful video for me getting ready to remove the waterpump on my Saab 99L 1974 thanks, Bruno.

Pak. Saya Subcriber anda dari Indonesia . Tolong tanya yang di maksud Barang torsi di Pinion itu letaknya di sebelah mana , dan apa sulit untuk membuka batang torsi tsb ? Apa benar benda itu Jantungnya dari worm Steer mobil yang selalu berat di Steer mobil ? Terima kasih saya tunggu jawaban anda

Helpful video. Thanks. Interesting aluminum slotted wheels I saw on that car.

Interesting. So that’s a 71 Federal. (Like mine) Did you say February? What’s the commission number? LE1400 or so?

Cool. Thanks!

Thanks for the information, It pays to get a spare used box sometimes just a small fix can save loads of money in reconditioned units , how did you get on with the crank bearing change did you get the sump back on and running ,

Very interesting, thanks for the information again Sujit 👍

I was able to get out the white ring and the seal behind it with a short blast of pressured air into the front port of the reservoir. Remove the reservoir for better access and make sure the piston is fully extended before applying the air.

Great information, you are a wealth of knowledge regarding all things Stag, looking forward to part 4 🤗👍

Thanks for sharing Roy, yes make sure the BW flexplate is installed with the dish side to the engine. looks like you have the crank spacer correct first to the crank then the flex plate then the washer then the six bolts , ask me how I know , it fits the wrong way after completing the whole thing the starter failed only finding the flex plate wrong way round , yep had to take it all apart again, I would assume you would place on BW bell housing on the zf put the converter in place and measure the distance on the converter mount studs to the BW flex plate and compare

Hi, I am from the UK with a Stag using the BW35 box and want to convert it to the Jag ZF4HP22 box and wondered who/where you purchased that adapter plate from as it’s exactly what I will need, also what ideas did you have to make the speedo work as the ZF does not have the figment for a cable? Many thanks, Ian

Interesting, I've added a j type overdrive to a bw35 , makes for very good cruising. , same as Manuel with overdrive, I believe that the zf top gear increases the the propshaft speed similar to that of an overdrive, keep us updated great project to see alternatives,

On a Land Rover, the caliper design is very similar to those and there is a sleeve inside the bridge seal so it keeps it seated when you release the brake pedal and prevent it to suck air in the joint and un-bleed the system as you drive. This sleeve is nothing special, a piece of pipe with the correct length and diameter is all it needs. I used to drive a car with a caliper set that had been rebuilt without the sleeve and I have never been able to prevent them to pickup air...

All this time and I never knew were adjustable

Brilliant! These Smiths gauges are the absolute same as fitted to the injected Sport Volvos from '69 -73, so the info you present here, and in the first video, is totally applicable and invaluable to us also. Thank you for putting this info together, particularly the details on the calibration tool! Compliments and Greets from Connecticut, and the vintage Volvo world!

Great video ! I am trying to solve a Smiths oil temp issue also. How did you determine the voltage that corresponds to cold and hot needle position ?

this was a joke.

Thanks, I have wire wheels on my 71 Stag but want to change over to alloys this was very helpful.

Man you aren’t kidding about it being hard in winter. It was 32 degrees last night and I really didn’t think I was going to get it off.

Guess who just done the rear brakes on there stag and has the top spring the wrong way round..thanks for the video!

Done this job a couple of times. The cross member is secured to the main chassis rails with 4 bolts & nuts each side. If the bolt heads are tack welded to their corresponding re-enforcing plates it simplifies removal and installation.

I'd recommend Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant. It's tacky but not overly tacky. I've used it on my Stag to great effect. If you like really tacky sealant try like Permatex 80062. They're both very easy to apply a very thin layer; which is all that's necessary. Good luck.

Hi worth Checking the oil pressure release valve as well ,as replacing shells will normally increase pressure, now on the stag it's a peculiar valve device doesn't take much for it to stick , Iv known stags to run on about 20 psi in this state, one customer ran it for a year like this , Iv had them myself after a lay up , 20 psi then suddenly it pops up to 40 psi , it should be 40 to 45 normal , high oil pressure recks the tensioners and stretches the chains , thanks for sharing, as always ,

thanks for your video. It helped me well. There are 4 holes on the front side, 3 are used for the bracket. Can you tell what the 4th is meant for? (it's been a while since I took it off the car and I don't remember. I also don't see any indication on the parts book or the workshop manual...

Hi Sujit, do you know how to remove the badge from the insert? I'm having a hard time getting mine out

Not a lot to explain replacement of weather strip which was the description 🤔🤔

I’ve seen the KMAC product on their website. Do you know of anyone who has their Product installed on a Stag?

I rebuilt a number of Stag engines when I was a teenager at a specialist 40-odd years ago. from my very distant memory, that oil pressure looks fairly normal for a used engine in fair condition. there used to be a simple oil pump overhaul kit (seals and pressure relief valve components) which is very easy to do as the pump is external. a bigger issue is when the engine has too much oil pressure often caused by a massive lump on the block casting in the oil gallery directly infront of the pump, sometimes causing back pressure on the pump and silting. this problem was from poor/no quality control at the factory and requires some aggressive fettling to remove. the symptom would often be a rattling timing chain and rumbling bottom end but showing contradictory good oil pressure. I'd be surprised if there are many engines out there which haven't been fixed by now. the Stag is one of the most under-rated classics out there, its reputation ruined by a good engine that was dreadful produced.

So would this be possible with the ignition barrel too. It would be nice to have a single key for doors, petrol filler and ignition!

Also make sure the spiral spring is installed the right way round! Believe it or not the very slow drivers window on my newly bought Stag turned out to be someone had cleaned the mechanism and fitted the spring so it was forcing the window down, not up!

ive had a price of $799 to rebuild my rack, assuming its just a seal refresh. For $65 for the seal kit i think i might have a go at it myself following this video!

Thanks Roy yes most jobs on the stag are straight forward IF you know how to go about it same as the bell housing bolts generally , long extension 1\4 inch sections untill you reach it hold the other end with open ended bent spanner , exhaust manifold bolts present the same problem , o and relax and take yer time , sometimes better with low light and shine a torch exactly where the spanners go , always enjoy your films !

That's a great visual demonstration of the problem that we all encounter sooner or later, and how to get around it with the long extension - thanks :)

I had that problem recently, it's a very tricky job. I had to replace my ignition switch and the electrical system which involves removal of the steering column. Job completed now. Good luck with your car. Bob

Interesting, to hear about the differences on Stags in the USA to those in the UK, Cheers Bob

Thanks for the hints-&-Tips on water pumps. Cheers Bob

Useful video thanks

Very useful information. Thank you.

Just done this as well. Regular solder worked ok, but gave cable and pull a good soaking in Baker's Fluid. 👍