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@rulebraking 2 күн бұрын
Hi there - new to this coding lark - having issues with a crank no start on 2006 E90 325xi - INPA shows fault when running "EWS start value comparison" getting a API Result text error #19 - No response from control unit - Continue with script process? Y/N? Hit Y and get error box with exclamation titled "Wechelcode_sync_DME" (CAS start value comparison runs just fine) - Question - would you know if this an INPA api error or EWS sys error? Many thx
@hashtagplaisir6104 5 күн бұрын
Great video with the entire process, too bad you didn't mention the colors indicated on the crankshaft concerning the bearings. And thank you for this moment which relieved me 35:45
@bavhaustv9795 5 күн бұрын
@@hashtagplaisir6104 Glad you enjoyed the video! If I recall correctly, this engine had “R” throughout all 6 cylinders. As for 35:45 i completely forgot we left that part in 🤣 -Mike
@DLau95 6 күн бұрын
Nice video. I’m getting transmission temperature warning on my idrive S65 DCT. Di u think it’s low on fluid? Could low fluid cause over heat? TIA
@pergrafstrom2213 12 күн бұрын
Why do you fill an extra litre?
@bavhaustv9795 12 күн бұрын
@@pergrafstrom2213 The DCT doesn’t fill properly when the car is level. Jacking up the passenger side entirely and then filling it is one method to properly fill it. Instead we just force another liter in after the fluid balancing. -Mike
@HugOCovers 14 күн бұрын
I had to check my intercooler if I founded the oil that I added all week 😅
@awsomephil12 14 күн бұрын
what scan tool are yall using?
@bavhaustv9795 12 күн бұрын
@@awsomephil12 ista+
@jheffg2g843 18 күн бұрын
Had a belt fail and get sucked in trough the main seal. Followed your steps and so far I’m 100 miles in. I went with king performance. 130k and the rod bearings were pretty worn. Thanks 🙏🏽
@bavhaustv9795 17 күн бұрын
@@jheffg2g843 awesome to hear! Keep that front engine face clean and you won’t have it happen again! If you want to mindlessly prevent it throw a crank seal guard on! -Mike
@jheffg2g843 17 күн бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 that’s exactly what I did looks like the power steering pump hit the sub frame and cause it to fail. Motor mounts are next.
@leogeorgi1834 26 күн бұрын
Can I just fill the oil down the oil filter hole?
@bavhaustv9795 26 күн бұрын
No you cannot unfortunately. -Mike
@leogeorgi1834 26 күн бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 why not? Il seen few videos guys filling up this way.
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
@@leogeorgi1834 the oil balancing in the transmission requires it to leak out any excess fluid. This isn’t possible from the top. -Mike
@TheChrisDam 27 күн бұрын
Thank you for these videos!! Could you please tell what kind of socket/ bit have used at 12:50 to remove the HPFP?
@bavhaustv9795 27 күн бұрын
Looks like the studs are a small etorx. It’s been a while since I did one of these but it’s probably e6-e8. The others are t30. -Mike
@bavhaustv9795 27 күн бұрын
The pump itself is an m10 triple square. -Mike
@TheChrisDam 26 күн бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 Thank you for the quick response. You are very accurate. I want to replace the valves steam seals in my touareg hybrid 2011 which use the same engine.I notice how difficult is to remove the metal heat seal for the combi valve , especialy the vertical bolt. I'm surre your videos will help me in my project.Thank you !!
@bavhaustv9795 26 күн бұрын
@@TheChrisDam glad we can help! These videos were some of our first so they aren’t filmed and edited to our liking anymore but we’re glad they’re still useful! Goodluck on your Touareg. Those combi valves are a PITA -Mike
@DaveJMcGarry Ай бұрын
Question? Why would you unscrew the 02 sensor before disconnecting it? Wire twisting is never good lol
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
No specific reason. I just didn’t think it through fully prior to doing it. You’re totally correct! -Mike
@reynoreyno3444 Ай бұрын
I changed my bmw 2006 325xi n52 transfer case actuator already and still got the 4x4! And break and dsc lights what you think went wrong I’ve also replaced the drivetrain and front driver side axel
@imthatguypal_ 21 күн бұрын
Damn man, I also have a 2006 325xi, this is my second e90 with vgc servo motor bullshit, its so annoying not being able to rip this thing easily, and this second one has transmission problems with squealing when going into 4th gear. It also died on me today at a red light, went from steady 800 rpm to black out no more electricity anywhere in cabin, dead. Connected a jumper pack, started it, disconnected immediately afterwards and its like nothing happened, running strong again. Except now my turn signals don’t go back to neutral after turning. Am I unlucky or are these cars so fucking delicate??! Ive seen E46s being more reliable but they are underpowered compared to E90 and above
@reynoreyno3444 20 күн бұрын
@@imthatguypal_ yeah bro it's all the sensors that's why people code them out and I feel you on not being able to RIP it mines auto and it really hurts me not feeling the awd pull but yeah any old bmw <2003 is way better and easier to maintain then these newer ones also cause the old ones have less plastic parts I had my old e39 thing was best asf and this new e90 it's not bad I'm still gonna work to fix it up and resurrect back to life but yeah the awd is funky thing with these but other than that they're beautiful comfortable cars and the coolant system is over exaggerated by many I've only ever reinstalled 1 radiator on a bmw and that's just cause it was a while that I had a coolant flush
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
@@reynoreyno3444 could be a number of things. Any codes?
@38735736576574687466 Ай бұрын
Very good video, Im subscribing
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
Thanks for the feedback! We have tons more content about to roll out! -Mike
@vasolazovic3670 Ай бұрын
does the m3 take 1L more than z4 35i considering its the same tranny?
@TheAldawg77 Ай бұрын
What should a repair like this usually cost if done by a mechanic?
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
I’d say this can be done within an hour or less. Doesn’t require much skill. You can probably have a shop get it done for about $100 in labor -Mike
@BluePurpleRed Ай бұрын
Thank you!
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
@@BluePurpleRed no problem! -Mike
@simontist Ай бұрын
I don't think any suspension bolts need to come out for this job. Just undo the six bolts on the diff flange (move the joint upwards first to get it out of the "cup") then support the driveshaft off to the side somewhere. No need to undo suspension stuff and mess up the alignment. I don't think the driveshaft needs to come out of the hub either? And air hammer isn't the best tool to remove driveshaft from hub, it can damage the wheel bearing as there's no preload on it.
@rockwithShawn Ай бұрын
Very helpful, quality video! I used a seal puller instead of a typical pry bar, doing the driver side on jack stands with the exhaust hanging limiting room. Thanks!
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
Thanks for the positive feedback! A seal puller is definitely the better tool for the job haha. And yeah driver side is a bit more of a pain but you can just undo those 13mm nuts on the hangers and let the exhaust sag. -Mike
@RichardIngramBuilder Ай бұрын
Thanks, great Video, great mechanic, great tips. Excellent, you have skills
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Glad you liked the video! Thanks for the kind feedback 🍻
@richardbielicky3603 Ай бұрын
Hello, very nice video, description in detail, I like it very much, thank you for sharing! I have one detail to discuss with you. As I know the full oil amount is 8,5 l (DCT+pipes+cooler). When you exchanged the oil why dont you drained the cooler oil out as well? Thanks, Richard
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Appreciate the feedback! As for the cooler, it’s not common practice to drain the cooler when servicing any transmission. The amount of fluid it holds doesn’t make much of a difference. The trans itself is still wet and will hold a similar amount of fluid so overall your goal is to replace and dilute as much of the fluid as possible. You could absolutely disconnect the cooler and drain it but personally I don’t think it’s worth the extra labor. -Mike
@richardbielicky3603 Ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 Hell Mike, thanks for your reply. I have got M4 (F82) which has the same DCT HW, only difference is with its SW setting. Now I have 58t. km, so it is going to be my first DCT oil change. Many home repairers said that there is a problem with slipping gears after exchanging the oil. I read somewhere that some kind of ISTA calibration should be done after DCT oil exchange. It is said that the new oil has different density then the old oil and the calibration sets the oil pressure to the original values. Have you heard of this?
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
@@richardbielicky3603 Servicing at 58k is a good time to bang this job out. The old fluid is definitely thinned out and the DCT has definitely adjusted to the oil’s current properties. That being said, these transmissions do calculate the amount of time since a fluid change and that’s how they determine the clutch ratios so resetting with ISTA is imperative. Sometimes it’s as simple as resetting adaptations but for some reason on this e92 m3 we weren’t getting a secondary option so I’m assuming it was integrated with the oil balancing as the car behaves well after. There can be 3 or 4 different service ABL’s that can be completed through ista after servicing a DCT. Next time we have one in that has all the options we’ll add a video that shows how to go through them individually. -Mike
@richardbielicky3603 Ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 Thank you Mike for explanation, I not familiar with ISTA, so I will have to ask someone who can help with this procedure. Till now I though that I am be able to exchange the oil without ISTA (just drain old oil, exchange filters, fill new 3l, let the oil warmed up and then fill another 3l) but it seem that for a successful oil exchange ISTA is going to be necessary. Bye, Richard
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
@@richardbielicky3603 That kinda what ista is doing. You can get away with it as long as you’re monitoring the oil temps and filling at the right time. ISTA isn’t exactly necessary but it’s a good idea. -Mike
@soopermarkus Ай бұрын
that's a great trick with the direction of the fluid to the drain plug. I had a really big drain pan and just left a couple screws in at one end and removed the rest. Then loosened the remaining screws and pulled the pan down at the other end allowing the majority of the fluid to drain cleanly.
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Transmission services commonly make a huge mess. Anything to keep that stuff off the shop floor is a win in my book! -Mike
@soopermarkus Ай бұрын
I was easily able to get to my pressure filter without removing the O2 sensor but that sure makes a lot more room.
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Glad you made it happen! I’m sure we could have too but sometimes it’s nice to clear the space from any potential interference. -Mike
@milyan360 Ай бұрын
Oh thank you soo much for telling me the vanos sprockets dont need to be at a specific angle or timing. I was freaking mid install. 🙇🙇🙇
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Often they need to be, but not with these! Happy that bit of information helped you out! -Mike
@stevenpower3780 Ай бұрын
Keep the good work up!
@bavhaustv9795 Ай бұрын
Appreciate it!
@hross410 Ай бұрын
thank you for the great video - and many others. For the pinion nut I think you forgot to bend out the lock washer into the two half circle spaces made for that. For the little drain hole on the output shaft bearing covers, it is interesting that it is not at the bottom, but that is how it seems to be - on right side of diff. its at "10 o'clock" and on left side its at "2 o'clock". The drain hole position can be noticed from the outside of the bearing cover in the way that the cast indentation between each of the 8 bolt holes; where the drain hole is located the indentation is smaller.
@netzke10 2 ай бұрын
Do you have dimensions for the alignment tool?
@thechannel8x 2 ай бұрын
Super detailed, should have more upvotes. Here, have one. On another note, not sure you needed to replace the solenoids. A clean could have been enough, given the seal was broken obviously.
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
Thanks for the feedback! And the solenoids were a “while we’re there” type thing. Don’t normally throw parts at a car but as mentioned it’s one of our personal toys so we decided one and done on it. -Mike
@ianyoung6829 2 ай бұрын
Great job where are you located
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Thanks! We’re in Ct. -Mike
@sawyerrescue530 2 ай бұрын
How do I calibrate with a foxwell scanner ?
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Should be under maintenance, drivetrain, VTG -Mike
@sawyerrescue530 2 ай бұрын
Tried to do it , it won’t let me
@Aziz-tc3fg 2 ай бұрын
In this case should i just clean the intercooler or do something else with the turbo??
@bavhaustv9795 19 күн бұрын
Turbo was replaced and everything was cleaned -Mike
@arturogasca7637 2 ай бұрын
Amazing video with showing the procedure and not cutting anything and with explaining everything you do. Don’t wanna think worst of the worst but What would the procedure be if when measuring with plasti guage it wasn’t within spec? Also what’s the reason for measuring again with the new bearings if you already measured the old bearings and the clearance was good?Ordered all the parts to do them using the standard size king bearings.
@harrywilkinson444 2 ай бұрын
Great detail in the video, thanks for listing parts used/part numbers and showing the ISTA procedure.
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Thanks for the feedback! We appreciate it! 🍻
@anthonylattanzi3199 2 ай бұрын
What fuses/relays to pull to disable the fuel system? Do i need to do that? I have a crec model.
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
As long as you don’t open any doors or mess with the key fob you should be able to avoid priming without having to disable the fuel system
@oddsman01 2 ай бұрын
Logic follows you do the same thing after an oil change, right?
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Not necessarily. There’s a check valve in the oil filter housing that prevents the primed oil from returning to the pan. So in most cases you should be fine. We just do it every time we finish up on an n55 as a precaution. -Mike
@roafelix8198 2 ай бұрын
Excuse me, is it ZF DCT transmission? Sorry for the noob question.
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Getrag makes the DCT not ZF
@roafelix8198 2 ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 Thanks for the reply.
@medben4533 2 ай бұрын
😂 are you serious man The Intercooler shouldn’t be having oil inside or that’s mean you have a bad turbo problem The Intercooler supposed to be cooling off the air 😂
@raymillz 2 ай бұрын
On my 2015 A7 they came out with the rail.... Should i be worried on reassembly? On both sides! I have put 80k since buying car with no fueling issues. Currently chasing a Cyl 5 missfire....
@raymillz 2 ай бұрын
1st off.... great work. Said I'm just finding your page but I'm locked in! You guys checking the fuel injector made me check it. So when I went to swap cylinder 5 w/4 imagine the surprise to see a broken o-ring imbedded in rail! When I took them out the rail! it seems the previous owner had the carbon cleaning done and the Audi technician double o-ring cylinder 5. It disintegrated thus blocking path and causing starving of that cylinder. If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't have checked the fuel by swapping injectors! Been watching your videos, keep up the good work. Wish I was closer. I'd give you some work. Hell how much for secondary air carbon cleaning id drive for that!
@calebstallings4742 3 ай бұрын
What scan tool are you using ? I replaced the actuator but i cannot calibrate it.
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
We used ProTool downloaded on an android tablet for this repair. -Mike
@leganjan 3 ай бұрын
I changed the sensor on rear left and now the reading is funny. It jumps up and down and is not the same as other 3. Any ideas?
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
I’d say take a look at the magnetic pickup on the rear of the wheel bearing. -Mike
@aleschenfelder3559 3 ай бұрын
I will try and tackle this job soon with the engine installed and would greatly appreciate any tips/links/resources. I have not found much online regarding accomplishing this, let alone anything related to the issues I am having. Long story short, I thought oil was leaking from the VC, and when I went to replace the gasket, I found the boost solenoid and vacuum lines covered in oil. I did a little research, and someone noted that replacing the auxiliary check valve on the vacuum pump solved their issues after replacing a multitude of other things. The car has almost 190k on the dash, so I think it's about time the pump be replaced anyway, and I hope it is the Hail Mary I need. Any help is of utmost appreciated; from my research, I've gathered all I need to do is remove the intake, intake manifold, fan/shroud, tensioner, and HPFP. then carry on with the procedure in the video correct? I know some pull the alternator for more room, and understand I will not be able to see much without pulling the front end. My questions are (if I am not missing anything thus far) 1. Is draining fluids and removal of the alternator required? 2. There is a rod that comes with the BMW tool kit that is inserted through the sprocket to keep tension; I'd like to think the way you did it is all that is needed unless both are required. 3. do you ha[pen to have all the torque values or know where to find them? 4. I have the N55b30. Are there any differences in the procedure? My guess is they're exactly the same. Just trying to cover all the bases. Thank you in advance!
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
The alternator shouldn’t have to be removed. The pin to hold the pulley is there to maintain tension so it may be a good idea to have it on hand. The motor we disassembled is being rebuilt so we weren’t too concerned with chain tension. I don’t have any torque values on hand but I should be able to grab them for you. What exactly are you looking for? -Mike
@You-can-fix-it 3 ай бұрын
So if one wheel sensor is having big air gap between axle ring, or if sensor defective, it will show on the dashboard that is 4x4 and is not working?
@bavhaustv9795 2 ай бұрын
Yes the 4x4 gets shut off whenever there’s faults in the abs system. -Mike
@eduardosalcedo3833 3 ай бұрын
This video guided me the whole way lol. Did you have to make sure cylinder 1 was at TDC after the install or does it not matter?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
Glad we were able to help! And engine position doesn’t matter. It’ll just run normally -Mike
@youraveragen54 3 ай бұрын
Great video, preparing to do this soon on my 335is. Couldnt find someone talking about the fill procedure but your vid was great.
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
Thanks for your feedback! Happy to help! -Mike
@1812weburntdownthewhitehouse 3 ай бұрын
Effin Eh Boys... Fabbo Video! My buddy just did his, and he was getting sick of my texts asking him questions, then I found you and it was like a light came on and your methodical approach is textbook.... Thanks. I Am now certain of the procedure band will do mine thanks to You Now the one thing he mentioned is he had a high mlileage car, so did the oil test, it came back "DO IT". But when he did the job, all the bearings were fine and he wasn't happy. Did the job in his driveway on jackstands by himself.. on super rough concrete to boot! So do you ever come across this happening? or even if you do, is it better done and maybe save your ass down the road? It is not a small amount of time or money.
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
I always say if you’re there and you don’t know it was done, it’s worth doing. As long as it was done right! Thanks for the feedback! -Mike
@jackvanhaverbeke1363 3 ай бұрын
Where can I find (ideally for free) the ista or inpa software to reset adaptations?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
Try some Facebook groups. I’ve seen them floating around there. -Mike
@jehfitt 3 ай бұрын
I have a 2016 bmw 228i xdrive that has all those lights but there intermittent and only comes on while driving. I was told it was the transfer case I was hoping maybe just flushing and adding oil to it or maybe the actuator. What do you think?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
Do you hear any drone from the front axle? Or have any air gap codes for a wheel speed sensor? Sometimes when the issue is intermittent it’s actually a wheel bearing wearing and causing a magnetic field that interferes with the Hall effect sensor. Check out our other videos on this topic and scan for codes. Let us know what you find! -Mike
@jehfitt 3 ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 that seems more likely to me then a transfer case. Because originally I thought it was speed sensors but my mechanic said they all register and not one was off from the others. He said it could be ecu, then another mechanic said it’s the transfer case and it’ll be over 5k to fix. The front brakes are warped for the second time in a year and a half and the cv axle boot is ripped again. Could a bad wheel bearing cause all that?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
@@jehfitt transfercase motor failure is typically a hard failure so I’d be looking elsewhere myself. The transfercase is more than likely not the issue. The code pops up to shut the system off for dozens of reasons. The warped rotor and axle issue are probably not related unless the bearing is extremely bad but I think you’d figure that out if that was the case. Ecu won’t be the problem. Drive the car and listen for a front axle drone and check for air gap codes when the lights for abs/4x4/brake etc pop up. Those codes to first appear are your guide to solving the issue. Don’t scan after long cause the chain reaction of codes will make it a nightmare to diagnose. Even when wheel speed sensors have air gap codes they still may read wheel speed properly.
@NortheastVintage 3 ай бұрын
Install of the sprocket is the reverse of taking it out? No need to loosen any timing chain tensioners or worry about the sprocket skipping teeth on the gears?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
If the sprocket is left in place it shouldn’t move at all. Just line the pump up and verify. There’s enough room to see what’s going on with the chain while you’re there. Hope this helps! -Mike
@Quietstorm-gh8bz 3 ай бұрын
Thank you for this. There's not many people that post for the Q7 and I'm going to do my injectors this weekend...this will be a massive help for me. I went to the Stealership and they wanted to charge me 3,000 to do this work🤦🏾♂️
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
Glad we were able to help! Be sure to reseal the injectors if you’re reinstalling them permanently. -Mike
@Marc-ty5sz 3 ай бұрын
I recently did the whole procedure and use motul dct fluid. But now I'm hearing a crunching noise going in and out of N and D also changing gears during slow speed. Do you think doing all the techin-in reset will help?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
The balancing procedure is pretty vital to DCT. There’s also a couple other applicable ABL’s that are related and may help. If you have access to ista just go into the ABL’s for the dct. There should be about 3 total if I recall correctly.
@Use2FACTAUTH 3 ай бұрын
Is removing the oil pump the same process on n54 and n55?
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
It’s a little different but similar enough -Mike
@Use2FACTAUTH 3 ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 do you know the difference between the two? Can you lock it with a pin the same way as you showed here or do you need the special locking tool? Thanks!
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
@@Use2FACTAUTH if you can wait a few days I’ll film a video. -Mike
@Use2FACTAUTH 3 ай бұрын
@@bavhaustv9795 okay thanks!
@Use2FACTAUTH 3 ай бұрын
I did the job today and my oil pump sprocket skipped a tooth on the chain when I was trying to retighten the pump, have you ever had this happen, should I be worried before first start?
@Mikea6972 3 ай бұрын
This engine will give you nothing but problems. It gives you problems stock, it's going to give you 4 times more trouble the way it's been modified.
@bavhaustv9795 3 ай бұрын
N54s aren’t bad at all when you’re ahead of the maintenance on them. It’s when the maintenance to-do list piles up on these that they start to become headaches. As long as they’re modified properly they actually become easier to work on. This single turbo car is much easier to work on than a stock twin. Just have to understand it all first. -Mike
@dylans4562 3 ай бұрын
its a love hate relationship, you got to have great patience! Sounds like you have been broken by the n54
@exiteternium 26 күн бұрын
funny. i have 185K MILES on mine.. plan to make 500 HP on twins in it. what makes you think it is an engine with nothing but problems?
@Mikea6972 17 күн бұрын
@@exiteternium OK smart guy... Let's see how that works out for ya... I'm sure you'll let everyone know. 🤡
@exiteternium 17 күн бұрын
@@Mikea6972 Ok, already documenting my mods. so far have done bremmen aluminum V.C. Vargas PCV upgrade ( albeit modified from original ) M3 control arms and new Bilstein M sport shocks.. and have been stage 1+ for several thousand miles now, although boost has been low in the 11's instead of around 16, so still need to smoke it for boost leaks and smoke the vacuum system and see if solenoids are bad, which is entirely possible. Plan to do high flow cats, the 4 pin crank hub from VAC, CTS all aluminum radiator, and CTS stage 2 twins. with turner hotside intake kit, and eventually replace the VRSF race exhaust with turner titanium valved catback. whenever i have to do oil pan gasket again, will probably take the time top check rod bearings, do ARP 2000 rod bolts and race coated rod bearings. maintenance+upgrade for overkill for goals is key to reliability. that and maintenance..