Use the ratio that the manufacturer recommends. I have never had a chainsaw fail due to insufficient lubrication. This test although interesting does not prove anything other than what would expect - less fuel in, less horsepower, less heat. I have in my collection an 010 AV which was used daily professionally by me for years in the late '80's to '90's, it did a lot of work. I still use it occasionally. I tore it down a couple of years ago to replace gaskets as it had a bit of an oil leak. The bore looks like it has just come out of the production line, all the cross-hatching is still present, no piston wear to speak of and same with the crank. It has always been run on 50:1 using Stihl oil.

More smoke

I've never owned a Stihl that would start until the next day if u ran it out of fuel

As long as the crank seals are good and its not over lean that engine will last as long as with new oem parts.

Awesome video!! Really enjoyed it. Thank you sir!!

Thanks Dave for taking time to make this video. Great angle screenshots and easy to get an idea how to put things back together. Best one yet I found from the rest.

I have a Stihl 028, do you know if a cylinder kit from a ms260 will work on the 028? Thank you

Hi Dave, just rebuilt the carb on the Echo 260i exactly as you did. Started it up with choke on and full throttle. Started right up but when you start taking the choke off it wants to die. Even after warming up for a few seconds. It will idle okay but when you increase the throttle it craps out. Any ideas?

I've ended up with plenty fittings and bits in my wash also

Maybe retry test with the lean and rich screws tuned per stihl procedure For the 25:1 Wondering if at 25:1 there is less gasoline to evaporate and being leaner it’s running hotter when saw was tuned on the 50:1 mixture.

I remember that car

Dude, its the bottom of the meniscus, not the top. That measures about 101. If the glass is accurate also.

Thank you, I’ve asking many people and no one gave me a good example of what the choke is used for. Your explanation was simple and straightforward.

How do you drain old fuel from one of these? I have a smaller 16 inch version I received that's been sitting for years but its filled right up

Most 40:1 Red Armor Oil seems superior to 50:1, but opinions may vary.

Excellent!

Lifesaver, thanks so much!!

So it has been pointed out to me there is no ABS on these saws...perhaps the glowplug? 😉

Yeah I keep keep saying that you're going to have to put it oversized piston in it and by the way I can build this off for about 60 bucks what's with new pacing ring and jug and you tell everybody a new piston is 100 bucks give me a break

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

🙄

So what did you determine caused the piston to burn up the rings.straight gas...leaking seals.carburator boot..iam curious.

I run 32:1 just because thats what works best on my dirtbike so everything else gets the same . I dont want 5 different gas cans with different mixtures to keep up with lol

POR FAVOR EN ESPAÑOL!!!!

Yes, a little extra won't hurt; I run 40:1 synthetic Amsoil. The problem is 98% of people don't bother/know how to maintain their equipment, by which TUNING before every cutting event, is necessary. You can run 20:1 like in the old days, non-detergent dyno motor oil if you have lots of mosquitoes around, as long as you clean the plug and muffler every four or five runs. Some Avgas with regular mixed with castor oil in the summer with your hot rodded saw smells like race day.

Cheap fix...nice

Just wondering if the original carb is now too small for the added displacement?

Is it possible for the timing on these small engines to be off? My machine is such a pain to start, it really destroys my wrist from pulling the cord so much and needs to sunbathe at least an hour before trying.

As a small engine tech, I have seen more saws with leading to or actually at catastrophic failures, from too much oil in the mix. 50-1 with good oil and 92 or better octane is all we use, never have problems with customers who stick to this formula. Carbs last longer, stay tuned better, saw runs strong and efficiency because it was meant for that mix. The better oil and fuel ⛽️ the less carbon, less heat, heat destroys engines. One side note the 40-1 with an oz of Marvel oil will do those who refuse to use good oil and gas a lot of good. 50-1 with quality oil and fuel ⛽️, clean the air filter regularly and your small engine will love its life and repay you double, even triple its worth.

I'm another guy who runs 40:1 in everything. Not going to stop doing it because of anything I read or watch on KZbin the proof is in the performance of my tools over the last two decades. I run one tank of tru fuel at end of season and just store it till next. Starts immediately every time.

Great job man! Especially putting all that into a short 20 mins, that would have taken forever. One thing I wish you would have added would be having a new spark plug for each test to show what the plug looks like with each different oil

Many years ago we ran Leaded fuels in a regular gas in & also in a premium fuel. Why did we move away from that? This guy running this chainsaw test has a long way to go to teach professional Sawyers about what is best for saw longevity. Good luck to all.

Very nice tests and interesting results! Thanks for sharing, and I appreciate the work put into this.

Excellent! Thank You, just the exact opposite of what I would have guessed!

Hi Dave, I'm from Canada too. Where did you get the piston from?

Great video. Thanx. 👍🏻

Did your chain need sharpening? It seemed sloooow pushing thru that wood.

Why should these hotter temperatures be considered a bad thing? What if a saw runs better a little hotter? I run 40:1 then add an ounce of marvel mystery oil, making it closer to 30:1. After my 660 was ported I started running this mix. I have noticed more discoloration on the muffler front cover indicating more heat. The thing is I get no oil in my muffler, no carbon buildup in the port either. Higher temps in the muffler mean the exhaust gasses haven’t cooled enough to condense. This is because the slower burning oils added to the fuel slow the burn rate just enough so that the exhaust gasses are still hot enough that they won’t condense in the muffler, let alone the port. That’s a good thing. And with zero carbon condensates building up in the port, no excess wear in the cylinder or the piston. The piston still looks new after 2 years. Granted it’s a farm saw. But I have cut down and bucked up about 30 trees so far. 50:1 is bad for your saw.

man o man this was kind of painful to watch. Having 54 years as a carpenter/millwright I have seen a lot of rough work but this I had to stop watching. Working in thousandths with dial calibers and micrometers is a lesson you need. Also get you a few magnetic bowls to put your parts in. Another suggestion start out cleaning your project before disassembly. And continue cleaning as you disassemble. Use a hone in your cylinder not sand paper. Just trying to help. Real surprised it ran. Congratulations.

I have an MS310 with a 25 inch bar. I have wore out 4 bars and maybe 75 chains. I use 50:1 sthil oil the silver bottle. I also use ethanol free when I can. It has perfect compression and believe me. When I run a saw it earns it's keep. The compression after 20 years feels just like new. Hundreds of gallons of gas. I can swear 50:1 with good oil is just fine. Mainly because it was made for it.

Interesting difference in temp! Thanks for making the video.

People think that adding more oil makes it run richer but actually more oil raises the viscosity of the fuel so it reduces flow through the carburetor jets causing it to burn leaner. Leaner mixture burns hotter?😊

A very well organized and executed test. Having considerable experience with 2 cycle engines, I was surprised at the results indicating temperature increase with more oil.

I researched how hot is to hot for a chainsaw engine .not alot out there .generally speaking engines run best at 190 to 220 But some times under heavy loads c saws can reach 300 at 350 engine damage can occur .that being said the engine never got anywhere near that temp. I'd like yo see test on a professional saw there made alot better. Also somewhere between my help ad in 40 to 1

Good info. Thanks.

Now try 100/1.

Why doesn't he say what oil he is using? The manual for all of my Sthil produces says if I use any oil other than the sthil oil, I must use a 30/1 mix! Oil has far more carbon than gasoline, so it does burn much hotter!

Opti2. 80:1 for over 30 years. Not one failure

Looks like you mixed up your fuel...smoking heavy on 50:1 No smoke on 25:1 Better check your results

Have the same problem on my fs38. I changed the ignition coil and spark plug but it keeps doing the same thing Anyone knows what it could be?