I mix 40:1 for the last 25 years plus and my engines last a long time. I use stihl or husky mix on all my saws and mix with Chevron premium. I don't know anyone who mixes 30 to 1 or 25 to 1. but I know a lot of pro saw operators who mix 40:1 with no problems. I would not lump together 40:1 mix with 25 and 30:1. It's not the same. 40:1 is 40:1

I think before listening to people on Reddit, how about you follow the manufacturers instructions given they have been engineering, building and testing for chainsaws for decades

I have the FS40 strimmer which is very similar, your vid saved me a few quid. Many thanks 🙏

Seems to die on idle if not pressing the throttle? Seems week for a 50cc machine

hey mate can i feature it thank you

Skouksve tested super tech.

Spoiler alert. Echo red is the best. Second spoiler. All of them are fine.

have you ever just removed jst the brass srew from the carb - cleaned out all the small openings and re inserted? I found that that is a quick fix and as always worked for me when I felt that there was a 'gunk' issue.. thx!

the hardest part is getting it up on the work bench ;). How dod you do it?

That was awesome

Great video with nice detail and appreciate the explanations

Just put that kit in my 056 super av

I would use a graduated cylinder to get a 45 to 1 mixture instead of 50 to one, 25 to one is way different. I add some non ethanol gasoline to the graduated cylinder to get every bit of 2 cycle oil out so one knows it is exact, some 1 gallon bottles are not exact. Stihl 2 cycle oil has more ash and kinda sucks, but your warranty will be void if you don't use it. Husqvarna XP + semi synthetic and Echo Red Armor full synthetic are the 2 best ones that I know of in my opinion, those let the saw run with not heating up as much compared to other oils. Some old timers swear by using 30 to 40 to one but still I think about carbon scoring/build up on the piston/cylinder and possible spark plug fouling.

I know a small engine repair person that has always ran 32-1 on al his equipment! So do I !

Don't quit your day job!

My 30 year old Dolmar just died. I ran it at 50:1 and cut 10 tonnes of firewood a year. Hardwood. Scored piston and rings, but can you expect any more from a saw, it wasnt going to last forever. Dealer i got the saw off recommended 25:1. After this video i think I'll revert to 40:1 or somwhere in the middle. I guess there are varying opinions because everyone bases them on their own experiences and those too seem very variable. Be safe eh?

Project Farm did a small test to compare between 2 oils. Im guessing the people that uses 50:1 use good quality oil.

Love your test, but you have to remember that technically, you should tune your saw for whatever conditions you're cutting in. So, the mix ratio is not going to make that big a difference as long as the saw is tuned. Where people go wrong is running overly Rich mixtures of oil versus gas and that causing a lot of carbon buildup in the Rings and the rest of the engine. The oil or oil company should be the one that determines the best mix ratio for ideal protection in the least amount of carbon buildup. The most important factor is that the saw is tuned for whatever fuel oil ratio you're running.

Dave, know that I live in the Spanish Pyrenees far from a repair shop and that you saved me 4 hours driving plus the workshop costs. I also enjoyed the DIY process and the satisfaction that success brings. A massive thank you and, as we say here - un abrazo.

Very helpful vid! Love my free snowblower even more now

I'm a plumbing contractor. I rarely use my chainsaw. It rarely idles properly.

I've got a Shindaiwa saw that I've noticed has some carbon build up on the piston at the exhaust exit. Is it worth pulling the thing apart to clean it up or just spray one of those foaming engine cleaner products (like Seafoam) in to the combustion chamber?

All are good oils. Allow me to share this information regarding Stihl Oil. Stihl obviously contracts out their Private Label Oil to a trusted refiner. That refiner would be Castrol. In fact, on some of their small bottles, there used to be a small Castrol logo on the back label. The Castrol Oil is their "2T" Two Stroke Oil. You can find this oil in many Auto Supply Stores. It's good for Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, etc. Any two stroke engine. It's the same oil as in the Stihl bottles. Buying a quart of this oil is significantly less expensive than paying premium prices for any of these private label oils. I've been using the Castrol in all of my blowers, string trimmers and chainsaws for years. Never have I had a problem with properly mixed oil in non Ethanol gas. Good Luck and thanks for sharing this video. Happy New Year.

I am no professional but for decades I have run 50X1 and I have never had any issues. Burning more oil seems like a bad idea to me.

Fixed. Thank you

I am sure this can help me Thank you

Bro, there are better starting proceeders Pull the saw to your chest; and instead of pulling the rope with your shoulder: Hold the starter cord high and up close to your CHEST Drop the SAW and HOLD the pull cord still up high by your chest. Use the weight of the saw. Drop your non dominant shoulder so it saves the one you used to whip start, take some stress of that side/shoulder Its rotator cuff i believe most associated with saw pullers.

Hey thanks your video was a huge help.... the kit came with no installation instructions whatsoever! Many thanks.

I got one of these as well. Guy had it out on the side of the road for free and said it wouldn't start. All it needed was a new spark plug. Had it now for three years no issues. Your video is great for the Mr fix it .

Pretty good skill set especially if you find especially if you find yourself in a deserted island with no parts.

Lots of people that KNOW ? I find that most know EF ALL ! and none of them mention the type of two stroke oil it was very different stuff 30 years ago . Another thing they never mention is how you warm the saw up , most piston and cylinder scoring is done by working a cold motor !

You’re not shooting fuel into the carb, you’re shooting air into it so it pushes fuel from the bowl.

I think this test is BS and doesn't prove much. Wear test should be done on a bearing and compare the scar.

Opti-2 is the best. I have been doing this since at least 1975, and Opti-2 mixed with ethanol-free gasoline is the absolute finest 2-cycle fuel on the planet, and this includes the pre-mixed fuels you can buy in a can at lawnmower shops. It mixes 100:1, but I always go 80:1 and have never ever had a problem. I have small lawn equipment that is 25 years old and never ran anything but opti-2.

Hey Dave! Thank you kindly for the simple and conclusive test, i have just received my first chainsaw for Christmas, a Husky 440, and just today i was trying to find a simple and safe way to mix my fuel. Found your channel and things are much simpler now! Can you recommend a practical setup for your chainsaw kit(fuel,bar oil, tools) Been looking around Huskvarna’s combi can, but it’s pricey and my local dealer suggested it was only worth it if you use your saw on a regular basis, as the cap orings are prone to leaking and are dear to replace. Thanks again and keep delivering quality content!

All I know is that I buy 91 octane of non ethanol with 3¼oz of lucas, husqvarna, Echo, stihl, or castrol 2 stroke oil

So it wasn't repaired for the original owner that used straight gas?

Long as its not out of round

I would not buy a used snowblower with out seeing it run. Especially a two stroke anything.

Hey Dave, where have you been? No more repair videos?

most modern 2 stroke are close to the same .

Huskys are the best . Great video

Nice work on the ol Husky..👌 They are worth it!

I run everything at 50:1 with full synthetic oil and tune the carburetor for that mix. Have ran many things that state 16:1 and 20:1 for many years without any problems through the years. Have never had any engine problems. Engine problems are caused by incorrect fuel mixtures, air leaks, overheating due to debris restricting cooling, and down right abuse cutting with a dull chain or wrong size bar and chain. 99% of problems is user error or lack of maintenance.

You will never burn up a rich saw!

Your test is flawed you did not record the ambient temperature of each test the true performed during the day

Interesting you never showed the removal and install off the impulse line thats on the back of that cylinder

I take it the new rubber wasn't rubbing against the housing as it turns, right?

Thanks

Um you are speaking English sir, you should not be using Celsius!!!