Worth checking the exhaust port and muffler too, make sure they’re not blocked.

Bravo. good

I have to say that exhaust temperature especially measured from outside, (and possibly too far away with IR gun) doesn't have almost anything to do with how good the oil is. If someone wants to optimize longevity of metal parts, just jet it a bit richer and maybe use a little bit more oil in the mix. Sacrifice is less power and maybe more carbon in the engine. Here are some interesting ideas to test instead (if not already done): -Oil amount inside 2t crankcase with different oils (compare to the flash point in the data sheet) -Oil amount inside 2t crankcase with different mixes. (Use same oil) -Torture test of 2t engine jetted properly with as little oil in the mix as possible. 0.7%, 0,5%, 0.3%? Maybe no one did this before and would make good half educational content. -Carbon cleaning abilities of different oils. -Carbon fouling tendency vs. Oil mix. -etc. I will go check some of your other videos in case you did something similar already. Keep it up. 👍

These are really really good engines but they are hard on the plastic cams. They will melt Never run one without an air filter either. It will destroy it. Seen one throw a rod bc it was ran with no filter. I rebuild them a lot But because people don't take care of them. 9 times out of 10? People will run them on straight gas.

I have changed my ignition coil and mine is still back firing? Any suggestions?

Was it gonna die, when ya hit throttle? Clean, spark arrestor.

You are SURE "Saving lives" here. But mostly the lives of those who want us to have a hard time fixing our own equipment instead of simply buy a NEW one from the same "Muppets". God bless "Capitalism" and what it has done to our very chance for a calm and productive life full of joy and not just gasoline-fumes and bloody knuckles. Yes i am ALL for transparency and justice for ALL(besides the assholes ruining for others as they are not showing these "qualities" that makes us human and not Ape and should therefore be "handled accordingly"). 🙂😇🥰😄

I've been dealing with a cracked bulb for 2 years. I wish I know how easy it was to fix it.

You should keep the pre-mixed fuels and do another test a year later.

Feeler Gauge size

j use whatever i can get

That's exactly what my Stihl 031AV is doing.

how much

Oil takes up space in the air fuel mixture, so you are actually causing it to run lean and shortening the engines life

Thanks! Mine HS45 Hedge trimmer is ALL out of adjustrment. Where do I put set screws to reset to base settings?

Muchisimas gracias amigo .....!!! Fue de gran ayuda

Hi A sthil carburetor not getting gas in the dulb

This was a huge help, thank you!

Best video ever for this trimmer. Thank you so much! I am now a follower.

Does the overheating happen because the saw was clogged with sawdust and oil, and not cleaned out? It would be interesting to compare the costs and benefits of the choices made on this repair...you can buy a new saw like this for about $500 and a used one for $300. If the owner had opted to just replace the ring, he might have had a saw that ran as good as new.

I have run a holzfforma g372xp on 20:1 for the past 4 years since i have owned it and had no issues. It gets used and abused every winter and hasnt given up yet

You’re the best. Thanks for the explanation

I can already tell you,. without hearing results... If you kept the same carb settings or tune,. With higher ratio's you essentially are running leaner with the higher amounts of oil. Nice Try.... of coarse it's going to be Hotter being Lean, You went to a lot of trouble to do a whop sided test. I'll tell you this,. .. I'm running a 1970's homelite 650 today on original cylinders and piston, that saw is probably older than your parent's. Furthermore I have a neighbor that runs a landscaping business and has to buy new equipment every season or 2 (two). Everything is 50;1 Sthil brand. Sthil Oil. And I am talking about 12 years of history for reference,. not a 1 afternoon filming session. My closing thoughts,. I see 40 or so years of real use,. and I have new Husqi equipment that I tune to run 32;1 and yes it smokes a little,. But my stuff runs every-time and every year,.. and I heat with wood and have 2 sawmills,. so my stuff is not just sitting building years,. they earn their keep. Compared to your 1 hour vested and stacking the deck in favor of 50;1... I'll take my years of FACTS over your yellow diaper comparison. explained, you still $#!ting yellow. with the way you did this "little test" You might fool the city folks reading,. but guys that turn wrench's and know how to turn them are not fooled. Another 1st hand run. I ran a PE 175 dirt on 100;1 because someone "Smarter" than me made the comment that oil actually caused drag.. (I was late teens eary 20's) I burnt the piston grove out behind and around the rings in 10 minutes Top's,. a brand new Wiseco in the 90's to the tune of $100 It ran like a bat outta hell but the time and effort was not worth the reward. So at 55 years old in the year of 2024,. I say "for once and for all" it is NOT OVER. I'll keep my 32;1 thank you.

It’s important to remember the extra oil will cause carbon to build up faster in the muffler and will eventually cause enough back pressure to cause the engine to run poorly or not at all. Always follow MFGs recommendations. They’ve done all this testing for us. Thanks for a great video! It’s always nice to see testing in real life.

So mix it 40:1 instead of 25:1, it calls for 50:1, i always run mine 40:1 & have never had an issue, time proves my own test, i dont need a phoney you tube video...

Have been running 2 strokes for years. Have experimented with different oil mix ratios and there is less wear at 20:1 than 50:1. In a motocross bike did run 20:1 in a bike that came from the factory drooling black goo from silencer pipe. Observers would say oh, you are running too much oil. But decreasing amount of oil does nothing to decrease the black oil emission. The problem was air to fuel mixture. Just changing jetting and regulating the amount of fuel to air provided the pipe to burn a dry light gray. The mx bikes have a much more adjustable carburetor allowing for precise adjusment in 3 areas, low, medium and top end rpm's. Same principle for chain saws with only low and high adjustment.

Definitely I feel the only reason they ever changed the ratio of oil to gas in these motors was to satisfy the EPA at the cost of the consumer's equipment lifespan. Typical government bulshit

I've been using Opti-2 for over 20 years now with no issues at all in any equipment.

GLOVES, wear gloves.

I ran 25-1 mixture for my tree service saws for 25 years and never wore out an engine. 32-1 is acceptable.

I like using air duster and I use Vaseline on my rubbers that's a must with anything lol good video though

You lost me as soon as you decided to check temperature in celicus instead of ferinheite.. I bet you don't even own any SAE tools.. BTW,Stihl sucks. Get a Echo..

No it will just stretch your chain out

It’s painful for me to watch you cut with that dull ass chain. I’m assuming your trying to heat the saw up by running a dull chain? You are running the saw lean with the 25-1 because you didn’t adjust the carb. More oil means less gas and a leaner mixture. My experience with high quality modern 2 stoke oils is that 40-1 is about the best ratio when it comes to a compromise between life expectancy and carbon deposits. 50-1 is an EPA thing, don’t run 50-1 if you want your engines to last. 50-1 with a good oil will keep the top end alive but it will starve the bottom end of oil.

I would like to see SuperTech full synthetic in the test.

Nice video, I always run 40:1

So you run 50-1 on a cold engine and then switch to 25-1 after its already hot and "prove" that 50-1 runs cooler? You also didnt retune the carb. 40-1 is a better ratio anyway or maybe 32-1 at the richest.

Not an endorsement for anything but for 25 years I’ve been using Opti 2 (a one mix) for all my equipment. My 52 year old chainsaw was 16:1, other equipment was 50:1 40:1 and 25:1 and I was tired of having 4 cans of old mixed fuel around. Now 1 can, no ill effects on the old saw. In fact I used it last week and other than beating my arms and shoulders up it ran perfectly. That really amazes me, 1 ratio.

It also depends on elevation

This is exactly the video I needed. I just replaced the primer bulb and now it's not priming. Unfortunately none of the 3 8mm sockets I have will fit between the plastic surrounding the nuts and I now have to go and buy a 4th slimmer socket😢🙄

did I just learn how to repair cylinder head and piston. Thanks Dave nice video!

I have an old Homelite and I never had a problem with it. I like 2-strokes. Less to go bad.

But it keeps the bugs away 😂

Yes and no. 40:1 is the sweet spot. 50:1 is a bit too little, and 25:1 is way too much.

I bought a Still 041AV back in 1967. The mixture recommended in the manual said 40:1 . I have been using that ratio all along for 57 years and other than replacing the carb and spark plugs a few time, the saw still runs great.

The likely answer as to why chainsaws run hotter with more oil in the fuel mix is because oil is replacing gasoline and the gasoline burns more efficiently to produce power. What's important here is not that the temperature is higher, but rather do the hotter operating temperatures reduce the life cycle of any components? And I would surmise that only the manufacturer can make that determination. But I will give the audience an important fact. One that was not presented in this video. Still says to use a 25 to 1 fuel mix ratio if one does not use stihl oil in the oil mix. Don't believe me? Read the owner's manual. Thank you for a very informative test.

Great breakdown,worth watching to the end...my 2 cents is,I had a spark plug that sparked really well,but did not start,replaced plug and it's back to new,this has only happened to me twice in 60 yrs....they are frustrating at times...

Just use ams Sabre 100 to 1 , works great with a cooler running motor.

I run all my saws at 40-1

How to make it get corent