Happy to help. What are you planning on doing? We have sleeves to repair the cylinder back to OEM stock size, we also have a race/ performance style sleeve. Also, which model bike do you have?

Sounds good. How can we help you?

Not to remove the power valve. If you screw a bolt into the side of the power valve you can use pliers to grab onto that. Try to not grab the power valve directly because it is made of aluminum and can get damaged if you grip it too tightly. Thanks for watching!

Glad to help!

Unfortunately the only places we have been able to source those pieces were used off of eBay or old stock.

You know the fuel tank bushing collars, install them in place of the plastic ones..remove the rubber, and adjust s necessary..

When tightening the power valve together it doesn’t matter it’s position inside the cylinder because it should spin freely all the way around when it’s bolted together. When you attach it to the bottom end, you will need to align it properly but, from what I can remember, it only fits together one way. As long as you don’t have it spun upside down, it should line up easily. Hope that helps! If you need more help feel free to call the shop. (562) 945-7578

Glad we can help!

Glad we could help!

The power valve design is slightly different but the removal is actually very similar. You can use this video as a guide for removal on an ‘86. Thanks for the inquiry!

Hello, the first thing I would do is to spray some penetrant on the flap, something like WD40 or FluidFilm and let it soak for a day or two. Then move the flap up and down to try to break up the carbon buildup. When trying to turn the rod I would have the flap up so there is less pressure on the rod. Hope that helps!

@@LASLEEVE yeahh tks that 'll help others cause i've done it exactly like that and succeed. i used fuel systeme cleaner aditive for gasoline to soak

Thanks for the inquiry. Typically the next step we take would be to tap the top of the studs with a hammer, not too hard, like quarter swing. You want to shock the threads and hopefully free them up. If you have a torch you can heat those studs up, let them cool a bit and then spray the studs with a penetrant like Kroil or Fluid Film and let it sit for a day or two then give it another try. Hopefully that helps!

You're welcome!

89-90-91

Yes they should be interchangeable. Those years use the same pistons, gaskets and connecting rods so, all sizes should line up fine. If you do go that route, be sure to check and make sure the piston sits proper (won’t contact the dome) when at the top of the stroke prior to installing the dome onto the cylinder. Should all work fine but, better safe then sorry.. if you have the original ‘96 cylinder you can compare the deck to base height and confirm they are the same.

Also interested in the stud puller

Hey Juliano. You can opt for a low price slide hammer like this one and it should get the job done, but you may need to modify one of the puller attachments so it can hook onto a nut screwed onto the end of the shaft. I made the attachment we use…. www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-puller-set-14-pc-56894.html

@@LASLEEVE Thankyou!

This stud puller will work. Just make sure you get one for 8mm bolts. www.grainger.com/product/FACOM-Stud-Extractor-36T852?opr=IDPPLARECS&analytics=PLAPDP_undefined

Crank shaft puller ended up working perfect to get the power valve shaft out. Kept forgetting to order the slide hammer & decided to try out the crank puller I had. Just figured I’d share that with ya incase you run into a stubborn shaft that the slide hammer won’t get out. Also side note, I part bikes out for a living. Does any of these resleeve replate shops buy cores? Or take them as trade in

Hey Daniel, thanks for the inquiry. To sleeve all 4 to OEM specs for general use would run $900. To sleeve that for high performance or racing, it would run $1350. That would be a wet liner Ductile iron sleeve.

Thanks for the inquiry! Sleeving a YZ250 costs $315.

@@LASLEEVE my cylinder has a little part worn. or you guys can make it bigger for me to put a oversize piston? how much?

We should be able to fix almost any wear no problem. You can do the 270 big bore (+2mm bigger) that runs about $650 for all parts and labor (piston, BB gasket kit, bearing) and also includes the head mod and power valve mod that need to be done to clear the piston. If you want to go all out you can do the 300 big bore and that goes to 72mm (+5.5mm), that costs $1100. That kit comes with custom porting to the cylinder as well. It gets a pretty big useable power gain.

We appreciate it, glad to help!

Hey Zachary, the Power valve will technically work without that stopper but you run the risk of it either over rotating or, the flaps may wear out quicker do to the fact that they may hit harder when closing. I believe that pin is pressed into the cylinder, did it fall out? If it is the piece I think it is, you can probably go to a local hardware store or Grainger and find a pice of stock bar that will fit and just cut it to length and JB weld it in place. Thanks for watching! I hope that helps.

@@LASLEEVE thanks for the info, do you know where I could find one or will I have to just kinda make my own?

I’m pretty sure you will have to make your own. They usually come pre-installed in the cylinder so I don’t think anyone sells a replacement for it.

Is it the piece holding the back of the power valve flap in? If it is then first just try to lay the cylinder on it’s side and spray a bunch of penetrant like WD40 or Kroil on it and let it sit for a few hours. If that doesn’t work you can try heating it with a torch, sometimes that loosens it up enough. Thanks for watching. If you have any more questions just hit us up!

Hey Aldo, from what I can find, I think that the right side cover is the same from 1989 thru 93 for the Cr250. OEM# 11342-KS7-701. Not positive if that is the part you are looking for?

@@LASLEEVE thanks for the reply! it looks like what i need i hope it works! if the older models workthen i should be able to find something!

Hey David. Once those bolts are stripped there isn’t a clean way to remove them. The best way I found is to grab a Torx Bit Socket (start with a T25) and get a Hand held Impact Driver. Put the T25 on the impact driver and hammer it into the rounded Allen bolt. If you can’t get it go to a T30. If you still can’t get it you may need to drill it out. Hope this helps!

Here is an idea of low cost tools I use for this.. Impact driver www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_F60Y0Z6V1G2KH4M6Z81J Torx Bit www.amazon.com/dp/B07R8J83BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_WJ190FRNV5NX8BM9H46G

Ok thank you for the advice and for getting back to me so quickly

Just got one in today with that problem. Instead of hammering on it I decided to just drill the bolt out. Wasn’t to difficult. Used a 5/32 bit and as soon as it got thru the top portion of the bolt the head popped off and I was able to get the shaft off. Then used a 3/32 bit to remove the leftover piece in the shaft. Good luck.

@@LASLEEVE I got all my now thanks to the advice that you gave me bro! Sending the cylinder off to millennium in Wisconsin today as we speak!!!

Hey Andrew. No worries, that is a good question, unfortunately I don’t have a perfect answer. Been a while since I’ve had a complete motor for those years but from what I can recall, those just lift off the actuator but, go on the side of caution and take it slow when prying it off. Best of luck!

Yes, there is a black 8mm bolt that covers the opening of a rack linkage that goes in on the right side of the cylinder used for adjusting the valves, you can see it at 2:27 on this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKjFkHtje9B1eJI

Yes. The linkage is horizontal in the bottom of the top end cylinder connecting the 2 power valve actuators but it is also connected to the linkage arm which is located in the bottom end but right on top. Its a small arm. I learned this the hard way as I fought separation of the top and bottom end and I chipped the case there.😢

This is the brand dowel puller we use.. goodson.com/collections/dowel-pullers/products/ga-600-dowel-puller-kit This one works great. But u can probably purchase a less expensive one if you don’t use it frequently. Hope that helps!

@@LASLEEVE Oh yes, thanks for your quick reply! Will get that soon.

Will do! I’ll try to get it up in a few days.

@@LASLEEVE thank's bro

@@LASLEEVE did you ever make a video of how to get it back together?

Unfortunately no. I had to ship the cylinder I had back to the customer ASAP so I was unable to make a vid. If I have one in the shop right now I’ll put a video up. Thanks for the inquiry!

Depending on the year, look on the opposite side of the PV from the thru bolt you are removing, there is a flat spot you can get a wrench on to hold it in place. You may need to pop the bearing off to see it depending on the year. If not then you can wedge a flat head screw driver in the exhaust port so when the PV rotates is hits the screwdriver. Hope that helps.

The 95-98 have a slightly different cover than the older years but the PV removal is almost identical.

4mx00

Yes, one shaft goes thru the round hole on the end and the 2nd shaft goes thru the slotted part. If you need any more info let us know!

Thanks for the inquiry! If there is any grinding needed it will be located on the tip of the PV Plug inserts. Before grinding, we recommend installing the power valve assembly, there is a chance no grinding is needed. Also, if the cylinder was Over Bored to a bigger piston, it may require the PV plugs to be ground back so it doesn’t contact the piston. If you need more detailed info feel free to email us [email protected]

its for sale I think

it blew up. No videos after dyno session and no track videos or anything anywhere on the internet. No one has seen this car. Its a fail. He just trying to hide it.

@@LuisAlvarez-rj3iv Didn't blow up. @Darthfrs on instagram just bought it.

@@Niratic it did blow up, but after that owner got rid of the Vortech kit and installed a G25-660 JDL turbo kit

@@IanBarton86 We're both right. At the time I wrote it, it wasn't blown up. At the time you wrote it, yes, he cracked a sleeve.