@@charvakkarpe oil enters through the same small hole and is allowed to enter the chamber to fill the space. Now the lifter is stiff/solid. If the oil can leak out, the lifter becomes filled with air and becomes squishy/soft/spongy.

I looked up another video that showed the internals and theory of operation. The name gives it away, they're lash adjusters, not really valve lifters. It's not like when there's higher oil pressure at higher rpm, they lift and increase valve duration. All they do is expand to take up slack as cam lobes wear down or due to temperature variation. They're supposed to leak out very slowly. The valve which you depress to release the oil is a one way check valve with a ball and spring that's supposed to only be one way. The oil then leaks out slowly through the internal gaps. Now I understand why some valve trains make a little clatter after having sat for weeks, and why that's okay.

@@charvakkarpe SPOT ON! 100% correct. Thanks for sharing.

@@scotts6955 because it was very worn. The shaft wears and the bushing wears.

@@dustyfruitypie1633 Yes. In fact I did not find any of mine that were bad. Engine is back together and running perfectly.

@@PetesWorkshop Thank you for your reply. I have some squisy and some hard so will clean them all first before buying a new set

Getting ready to do this next week. My plan was to clean it up real good with water when done. Don’t see how it would damage anything as long as the housing and filter are rated to get wet

As long as the vac is in ‘wet’ mode it will be fine with just a clean water rinse.

​@corptusion I didn't even have the patience to wait for a comment and I needed to use the truck lol. It was over filled (by me) because of a stupid mistake and I did exactly what you just described. I flushed the shop vac tank, hose, and sprayed the underside of the unit with water, ran two gallons of fresh water thru it, rinsed, 2 more gallons, rinsed. Might have been overkill but I did not have to correct type filter for the vac so I just ran it with no filter. It should be fine and the cost to replace the vac if it eventually fails due to this, it's far less than the damage I could have caused by running a 6.7 powerstroke with too much coolant in the expansion tank. But thank you very much for a reply on a 2 year old video! Much appreciated and good luck with your endeavors! ​@@corptusion

​@@PetesWorkshopThank you for the quick reply on a very old video, much appreciated and did exactly that!

I’m not sure either. Most likely it does though.

Good work. Glad that parts are still available. Fair price too.

@@BosslaGrusome Australia

@@PetesWorkshop you would of made a bunch of dollars if you were in Canada 👍🏼👍🏼 keep up the good work brother

@@sabinislami8884 which thermostat did you replace?

@@PetesWorkshop the big one

@@vkouroub it is worth trying to connect battery jump cables to another vehicle (with engine running) to ensure the voltage is good.

@@PetesWorkshop Tried it multiple times and nothing unfortunately. "Dash" instead of gears showing on board. Battery started flashing and car is in eco mode although i charged it (the battery is 1 years old). Did a diagnostic test and P1351 fault appeared. Cleared the fault retried the same. Checked fuses all good. For some reason the sensodrive refuses to calibrate even with 14+ volts from jump cables. I have no choice but to bring the to Citroen dealer workshop.

@@vkouroub I’m out of touch with this car for a couple of years now sorry I can’t offer any support.

@@nizamgsrt problem still exists even with a rebuilt engine and a different starter motor. I have not found the cause yet. Next I need to check the cables and earth.

@@2_CR1T1CAL if the A5 has a DSG transmission, it will most likely have the additional thermostat. Although I don’t know for sure.

@@worbarry9735 No. they use a variable vane turbo. They have sticking/seizing problems.

@@thecatcollective8317 www.siliconedirect.com.au

@@Tom-j1r it could be the variable vanes in the turbo are gummed up (sometimes moves other times can’t).

@@MRGHIA The product is literally named OBDeleven. www.obdeleven.com

Typically the pcv valve/diagram fails and blows the seals out

I suspect you guys are correct. I will spray brake cleaner into the rear main seal to confirm (the engine idles up). No current codes but it did have relevant codes to bad PCV before I cleared them.