Why is the reverse switch screwed in the transmission? Many older cars (and I’m sure some new ones too), did this. It’s an easy way to have a reliable mechanism to trigger the lights when the gearbox is in reverse. Basically it’s a pin switch that gets pushed in by an arm in the gearbox. Otherwise it would need to be outside connected to the shift lever somehow which would likely cause it to be less reliable in my opinion.

Thanks!

Thanks!👍

Hey Flytym! Sorry to hear that you didn’t get value from the video, however those points in my opinion are not really key points to what the video is intended to show. Not sure why you would need to see how much the torsion var sticks out, and as for the plate slipping on, it’s just that, it slips on. The video is to show the concept and give an idea of the steps involved. Also the torsion bar layout changes in some years. Years where you have an extended tube on the spring plate you cannot see the torsion bar end etc. Hope you find the info you need, good luck with the project! 👍👍

That’s great! Notvtye mice 😂, but the fact you found the issue👍. Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!

Awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks 👍

That’s great!!! I’m glad it helped!!👍👍

👍👍🙌

Thanks!!👍👍

Right on!👍👍

On original units the hole on one side is smaller than the other to cause a directional flow as I understand it. However the point of tte vidéo is not the direction of the flow but rather the fact that they clog up and then have no heat to the carb area, and how I try to clean them out. Regardless of direction no heat is no heat and blockage is blockage.

I mostly use old speedos for parts etc. I’m not aware of any suppliers.

Cool! Thanks for that info!

Thanks for the feedback Not always easy to film properly and get things done at the same time. 👍👍

Thanks man!!👍👍

Thanks for the kind words! All I can say is take lots of pictures and notes as they can help safe time etc. Try and ve sure you clean as much as you can and limit the number of joints a single line has. Good luck!

I got mine from Brazil it is made under the Runner name. You can also find it under the name bug tec. I don't have a particular seller to refer you sorry.

Awesome! Glad it helped, thanks for the feedback!

@@WolfHausMotorwerks OK, now where do I get my "The Beatles" sticker?

You can DM me at [email protected]

Second question if I do have to buy a used speedometer for this, is that gear pretty standard for these speedos that have the separate fuel gauge?

I'm not aware of many or any spare parts other than a gear for super beetle speedos. I usually source used units to pick parts from.

Ideally I usually get as close to identical unit to swap parts from.

So is it just this video? What exactly is the info you need more clarification on? I had feedback that my videos were too long and drawn out.🤷‍♂️

The Led strip I use is similar to this DC 12V Waterproof 1Ft 15 LED Strip Underbody Light with 6 inches Wires for Motor (White,Pack of 6) a.co/d/5ArgD3r I hope this helps👍

Hey thanks! I'm glad it can help. Unfortunately with these cars it's often the case. Thanks for the comment! Let me know if you have any questions.

Awesome👍👍

Right on! Glad it helped. They usually should have a fuse on the ignition on wire just fyi. Glad it helped 👍👍

Thanks for the kind words! The les strips I get are 12v so on a 12v car it's a direct connection. On a 6v car id add a converter that converts 6v to 12v you should be able to find them on Amazon or alibaba etc.

@@WolfHausMotorwerksdid you wire the LED strip to the dimmer on the dash?

I can't say what is legal or not in your area, however these speedometers often broke and were not accurate, easily replaced by one from another car, and at 99 999 they would go back to 0. In the video I show how to fix etc, you can also use this to put the correct milage into a replacement speedo for example.

Each bulb socket should have +voltage at the small tabs at the bottom of the socket. The surrounding body of the socket is the - ground to be careful not to short the socket. I usually tape up the test light and only have the first few mm of the test light tip exposed. If no voltage at the base then pull the housing apart a d see if the wires are ok. Some sockets where the bulb has 2 functions will have 2 contacts. Obviously each socket will only be live when that circuit is turned on. Hope this helps!👍 Need more info let me know👍

@@WolfHausMotorwerks ok i’ll try that. My housing has 3 sockets. Signal lights, brakes, and reverse. Only reverse doesntnwork,..for both sides. Ps, i have a 1970 semiautomatic Ghia. Thanks for the suggestion

YOU may want to keep in mi d if the wires are somewhat stock, there is an inline fuse off the coil for the reverse lights. Also you can verify the reverse switch in the gearbox as it may fail or the connectors may be off. Under the car at the nose cone you will see it on the passenger side. YOU can test it with a continuity tester, in reverse you should have the contact closed in neutral no contact. Also you can do a continuity test on the wires to see if broken. The wires to and from the reverse switch are + so be careful to not ground them out. Car does not need to be on to test continuity in the switch. Hope it helps!👍

Thanks!!

Thanks for the kind words! I have some more coming out just need to find time. I'm glad they may help👍

Thanks!👍

Awesome comment! Thanks!! I'm glad you got something out of the video👍👍

Thanks! Good luck!

You could put any color you like, it may cause the needle to show more or less, but I'd recommend trying it before you close up the speedo to see if you like the look of it.

Gongrats! You can add a little grease to the paper gasket it seems to work a bit better than dry. If you see the flange on the case has any pitting or damage from corrosion you may want to use some aviation sealant by Permatex on the gasket, avoid using any silicone or rtv type stuff. you will want to keep an eye on the valve adjustments moving forward and general maintenance, do the basics and it will run fine for a long time, Put off the maintenance and it can bite you in the butt! If its a rebuilt motor I'd drop the oil sooner than later to see if all is going good. Good luck! Hope you enjoy the Ghia!

Yes I put the drop plates back to where the OEM ones were, therefore giving me the 2" drop engineered into the profile of the new plate. There is a slight adjustment up or down with the adjuster bolt. If you wanted to go lower you would then install it one tooth higher etc., but you loose some preload. I try and keep the axels closer to parallel to the ground on swing axel cars, beyond that you can run into issues at the gearbox as well as the oil not getting to the bearing in the end of the axel etc.

Thanks for the question, The indexing of the splines will dictate the height you get. The inner and outer splines are different. The inner and outer have a different number of splines and therefore if you move the arm on the outer spline position it will be a different outcome vs not moving the arm on the outer and only moving the position of the inner where it goes into the chassis. Here is a link with some info regarding the effects you get inner vs outer www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=677202 Keep in mind this can also vary a little depending on the condition of your torsion arms. You may do it 1-2 times before you get the height you are looking for. Take your time and mark things for reference in case you need to go back to the way it was. Good luck!

It's a generic Led strip, about 12" long and just a bit less then 1/2" wide, you can use a strip that is less wide but not really wider. The ones I have used can be cut shorter and most come with an adhesive backing. You can find them at most electronics stores or online. they run on 12V DC.

Thanks! Ok, so when it comes to the spring plate, one thing to keep in mind is the preload of the torsion bar. The preload can be compared to a bow and arrow, if you pull back the bow a little then your arrow wont go far since there is little energy behind it from the bow, if you pull the bow back a lot, the arrow will go far due to the increased energy. So more preload, more energy, the car sits higher, less preload, the car sits lower. That is basically what you do when you are "clocking" the plate on the torsion bar moving it by a few teeth. If you use the factory plate, you can clock the arm a few teeth and still have a little preload on the spring plate, where when the car is lifted up, the plate will still rest on the perch with a bit of tension. The preload will affect the ride quality and also the handling of the car, keep that in mind. For this reason I prefer to use "drop Plates" when possible. If you use a 2" drop plate, that means that if it is installed at the original position it will drop the car 2". This assumption has to take into account the condition of your torsion bars and your shocks, as those can also affect the height slightly. That said, this also takes into account that the adjuster is in the middle of its range, and this would allow you to either raise the car or lower the car a bit to adjust any side to side differences you may have. The adjuster is a mild adjuster in my opinion, more to fine tune the height a little. now if don't care about preload and all that, then yes the adjuster can lower or raise the car no matter where your spring plate may be set relative to the original position. The ride may suffer though. I back off the adjuster so that when I install it back on the car I am giving myself an easier time by removing a little preload, once the plate is on, I adjust the plate to the "neutral position". This "neutral position" should be the desired ride height, and from that point I can go up or down. Another thing to keep in mind is on a swing axel, once your axel tubes are passing parallel to the ground (as you lower the car more and more), the oil will not flow towards the outer bearings, and also where the axel meets the transmission will take a beting due to the angle. Just things to keep in mind.

If I recall, it was back to original, I based it off the mark I make on the frame when I remove the old one.

Hey thanks for the comment. If it is starting to squeal then the Speedo input bushing is starting to seize up. You can try to put some grease or oil into the input of the speedo where the cable goes in, however you need to get lubricant in between the part the square cable tip goes in and the outer housing. Another warning before the speedo will seize up is the needle will fluctuate instead of moving smoothly. Lube it sooner than later. When it will seize up it will snap the speedo cable. Hope this helps! Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback! 👍👍

Thanks! I'm glad it helped. I use a thick gear lube grease, you can use any gear type grease that is ok on plastics etc. It doesn't take much, you don't need it to sling around. Something like a good dialectic grease could work well too.