This is my DeVilbis. It still sprays like new unlike my Marson. Thanks for checking it out Jerry. Have a great week

That’s strange. Both products have basically the same ingredients so I don’t know why it wouldn’t harden. I’ve mixed different products together also with no problems. I hope you figure it out. Thanks for watching

Crazy Evercoat will not stand by their product or even help me out. I knew something was wrong right away when it didn't turn a greenish color ​@@autobodytrainingsolutions838

Most companies will try and place blame on the customer. I call customer service for all kinds of things and it’s rare to actually get an answer that I believe

My tried and true DeVellbiss. Thanks for watching

Yep. You have 1 panel that didn’t need body work. Better than most cars this age. Are you doing any work to it over the winter?

Yeah possible front steering linkage

I forgot how much fun it is to sand old lacquer paint. Thanks for watching Richard

That’s one option but I still like etch prime. I have a future video where I explain my reasoning. Thanks for watching.

SEM epoxy can be used over etch prime but SEM says it’s not really necessary. I have a future video where I explain why I used both. Thanks for watching

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 Got it thanks. As long as the P-sheet says it's ok, then it's ok.

Yep. I use a wireless mic now. Thanks for watching

Heat Shrinking 2.0 kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHnXgaRpibWWea8 Here’s the link to my updated video on shrinking where I show the book in detail. Thanks for watching

Thank you I appreciate it

Thanks for taking the time to comment and for watching

I don’t know if a oxy/propane torch would work. Only one way to find out. You would need more heat due to thicker steel will dissipate the heat quicker. On trying to keep a crown on the metal, propping it up and applying heat should work. Let it cool naturally as cold water would shrink it . Better chance of it staying where you want it without quenching. Sorry but I don’t have any leading videos . Thanks for watching

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 It is very nice of you to reply, and unexpectedly quickly too! I had a feeling that allowing natural cooling might be the way to go for my unusual application. I appreciate your input--thank you. Here's a bit trivia that you might enjoy: More than thirty years ago, I worked a one-year, temporary appointment as a shipfitter at Puget Sound Naval Shipyard in WA. A young man, mid to late twenties I'd judge, in my shop was a talented "flange-turner" whom I observed straightening structural steel elements with a torch one night (swing-shift). I can't recall if it was while talking to him or while discussing his work with another coworker years later (the latter situation I believe) when I learned that the graceful arcs of the legs of the Seattle Space Needle building were produced by plying torches to distort the metal. Here's a quote from an article about the construction: "To pull off a similar feat for the Space Needle, foundry workers heated pie-shaped sections of the leg beams. As these sections cooled, the steel constricted, with greater contraction at the wider parts where the heat was applied, making the beams curve."

Very interesting. Heat + metal can to unexpected things.

Yes it will help by putting a jack on the bottom of the door with a little pressure on it. Place the jack towards the rear of the door. I don’t know what type of car you’re working on but some don’t have any adjustments on the hinges. You could also grind or file the hinge holes to give you some room to slide forward. There could be some damage on the A pillar but a little grinding on the hinge is no big deal. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 Thank you very much for the replay. The car is 2009 Nissan Sentra. Today I tried w/a lift, actually I used a motorcycle lift, and that special Leslie alignment tool for car doors, again w/not much success. Then I pried on the pin of the bottom door hinge w/a huge (~1.5 m) braker bar, moving that pin out. It helped somewhat, the upper right corner came closer to the car, the door opens and closes more or less normally (before I couldn't close it at all till the striker was removed). . I also started to think that maybe that car is not designed for door alignments at all, since saw on the rear door just a pin instead of 1 of the 4 bolts. From another side in the Shop Manual I have for that car, they say that every door should be aligned and give #s of mm for each distance. That is a great idea to grind the holes in hinges, but I'm looking now at the spare hinge fm the original deformed door and it is not that much space between holes, only 12 mm. I would need to grind out about 4mm (the front and read doors are overlapping ~2-3mm). The door closes and that is probably all I can have after such damage (there were some folds on the bottom of the door, the car flied on the sidewalk from the road where it was parked). Thank you again.

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 Sir, sorry for the confusion, but I didn't think about it before, and the situation is kind of unique, at least for me, who works on the door 1st time. So yesterday I remembered, that 1 (the one which is closer to the door) of 2 holes for the hinges on the top was deformed in the way, that the insert w/a thread for the bolt was pulled out slightly fm the hole. So it was sitting like 2-3 mm above the plane of the body. As a result that insert formed a peg, on which the hole fm the hinge went, I assume. I saw it before the installation, slightly tapped on it, but it didn't go in much inside. I thought it is not big deal and maybe will go inside by itself after I attach the door hinge. If you could tell how to move that insert inside of the body of the car, I would really appreciate it. The diameter of the bolt is like 4 mm smaller than the diameter of the hinge hole, so there is an option for the alignment to move the door back and forth. The insert has ~ same diameter as the hole. I'm more that sure, that hole is sitting on the part of that insert as on a peg, and that is why I couldn't move the door. I also think that is why the upper right corner (the one closer to the rear) of the door is like 1 cm above the body of the car. I even don't know if to grind that peg and make the insert top even w/car body, or find way to protrude the insert inside somehow. Thank you again for the attention to my problem.

That peg is for alignment at the factory. You can grind it off and then you should be able to move the door. I haven’t seen one of those in years. I don’t think any manufacturers use them anymore. Hopefully that will take care of it.

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 That peg-pin is on the rear door only. On the front door there were no factory pegs at all originally. The peg I described on the front door hole was formed due to the impact, again it should not be there at all. Like there are 2 holes for the Hinge-to Body attachment. The threads for the attachment bolts are sitting inside, about 2 mm below the body surface. After I saw that coming out insert due to the damage) I know they are inserts which are attached somehow inside of the body. I'll see, maybe I'll grind out that peg. I'm afraid to mess up smth so there will be no option to put the bolt inside. But all that resolve the problem, why I couldn't move the door anywhere: there hole is sitting on that insert peg, formed due to the impact. Thank you so much, this discussion clarified my issue.

Yep I’ve done that method many times when there was no access to the back. It worked surprisingly well. Thanks for the checking out my videos. It’s really appreciated

It’s one of those tools that don’t get used often but it can really come in handy. Thanks for watching

Interesting. I wonder if they’ll pay me royalties? Thanks for checking it out.

The gun is an old Marson. It actually doesn’t spray that well anymore but it was good enough for primer which is what I bought it for in the early 80’s. My old DA is a National Detroit model DAQ. It’s almost 50 years old. I used 80 grit initially to cut through the heavy primer and e coat then switched to 120 and 220 on my finish sander. Happy New Year to you too Petar. You’re one of my most loyal viewers and it is greatly appreciated. Greg

Yes that is a conventional gun setup. It’s not because the cup location (siphon). The cap determines the spray pattern. I use a Devilbiss GPI gravity fed gun with conventional cap for base. They now offer new siphon style guns with HVLP caps

It didn’t really need it. Thanks for watching

Good luck with your project and thanks for watching

Thanks for checking it out Richard. Have a great New Year

You too Steve

Thanks for checking it out.

That depends on your budget. Put in as many as you can. If you don’t have enough you’re always stretching chains around. I don’t have an exact number but the more the better. Once you do a few frame jobs you’ll get a better understanding of where you need extras and they can always be added later. Thanks for watching

After blocking I like running the finish sander over everything with 320 to get all the block marks out and to give it a nice smooth even finish. It’ll get 1 more sanding on the new filler areas and a finish prime- sealer. Thanks for watching Petar

Yes I should have explained that. It’s part of the bumper so same material. On newer cars nobody repairs that area because of the texture. You could try and duplicate it with chip guard. Thanks for bringing that up and for watching

Thanks for checking it out

Thanks for checking it out

I’m not sure of my brand but you can find them on Amazon. Thanks for watching

Thanks Jerry. You too

Your car is looking better all the time. Thanks for checking it out Steve

I’m not sure what it’s called but it seems to be discontinued. I’ve done a search on eBay for a used one but no luck. It sure is handy. Thanks for watching

Yeah I like to keep my audience waiting. Thanks for checking it out Richard

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 just waiting on the other vids Greg

I’ve requested they sing Far Far Away but they haven’t yet.😂

Correct. No adhesion promoted needed. Just plain body filler works great for small imperfections. Use whatever priming and painting products you would normally use to finish it off. Thanks for checking it out

I used 3M 4240. I’m not familiar with a JB Weld product that would work. SEM also makes great products. Thanks for watching

​@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 All good mate... I gave your method a crack today using JB Weld Plastic Bonder instead of the 3M product (similar 2 part epoxy product for thermosetting plastics). I repaired a front bar with builder's fibreglass mesh as the reo as you instructed & it worked a bloody treat mate! Gave the surface a real good talking to with some 80 grit first, plenty of cross hatching for the bonder to grab hold of, then laid down the self-adhesive reo & poured in the bonder. Had ally tape on the front face to ensure a smooth surface in line with the original form. Came back an hour later & stuff me if it wasn't as strong as the original plastic bar itself. I'll leave it set for 24 hours then decide if I need to make the one sided joint on the front face. The crack was on a 90 degree edge on the underside of the bottom lip of a sports spoiler front bar. Once fitted up to the vehicle it really carries no load whatsoever so I'm not sure that it's going to need it. Plus the 90 degree angle along which it broke provides quite a substantial bonding surface purely by it's geometrical nature. Your thoughts... But that aside, brilliant...absolutely bloody brilliant. Thank you sir, sincerely appreciated. And exceptionally well instructed & certainly musically enhanced by the bird quartet in support.

@@AlexanderFerris-k8m sounds like a good repair. I didn’t know JW Weld made a plastic repair but it makes sense. Your repair should last as long as the car. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for watching. Greg from USA

@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 Thank you for a no bullshit focus on quality, informative & knowledgeable content is sincerely appreciated sir. Merry Xmas to you...

@ Thanks Merry Christmas

Yep you can do that too but what if it’s the quarter panel? Thanks for checking it out

Thanks for watching

Thanks for checking it out Jerry.

That’s why I make these videos. I can see how every generation of techs lose the tried and true methods of body work. Thanks for your comment and for watching

On a full frame any impact affects the entire frame. On a frontal hit the least damage will be at the rear. Starting there and working forward is the only way to get a complete repair. The areas behind the wheels can usually be repaired if there are no kinks in the rails. All these procedures are easier to understand once you see them being done as opposed to a video or explanation but they do work. I’ve done many over the years with near perfect results. Thanks for checking out my videos

I’m not familiar with FCAW but I assume it’s a MiG welder. It’s possible to weld in bigger holes but yes it’s more difficult to get a flush surface. They high spots could be tapped down before filling. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching

@autobodytrainingsolutions838 Thank you very much for your reply, that's interesting to hear. Yes, I have a semi-automatic inverter MIG 300 Welder with fan cooling, thermal protection & speed control regulator. IGBT inverter Technology Over Heat/ Over Load / Over Voltage Protection Suitable for Steel Stainless Wire, Aluminum Wire Argon Wire, Flux Cored Wire. Some spec may be of some interest: Power voltage(V):1phase AC220V ±15% Frequency: 50Hz Power Input: 1ph 230V Max. No-load Voltage: 28V Output current(A): 50-100 Force range(A): n/a Duty Cycle: 10% No-load loss(W): n/a Efficiency: 85% Insulation grade: F Flux cord wire diameter: 0.6-0.9mm Housing protection grade: IP21S. It's great to see your work here, I appreciate MiG welding with gas is probably the best for the cleanest welds. In my case I don't have sheltered space, creating a good enough screen from the wind, so I just wondered if that's where the FCAW might come in handy. Many thanks for sharing this video with your fine practice. ⚡☺️