I can imagine!!

En remontant la main sur la rampe de droite on peut rapprocher un peu les prises, mais c'est sûr que c'est un bloc qui change complètement si on est pas assez grand pour prendre à la fois la rampe droite et la main gauche de départ ou le sorte de galet main gauche d'après... Il y a bien des petites réglettes sur la face mais bon !

Oui tout le secteur est magnifique et relativement préservé, je pense retourner faire les blocs du niveau prochainement si le temps le permet 🙂 Merci !

Ah mince, bon courage pour ta fin de récup alors ! Oui le volume joue beaucoup. Je me l'étais déclenche en faisant 3 heures d'essais non stop en blocage dans Miss Kgb... Bloc sympa de reprise franchement, pas haut le 7A est plutôt sympa, dans un beau secteur 🙂

​@@tallbetaclimbingMoi c'était après 2 heures à me buter sur le mouvement de fin de Yoga, gros blocages bras droit sur le plat de fin à chaque fois et les pieds qui partent, au final je m'y prenais mal et j'ai compris la méthode qu'à la session d'après.

Thanks a lot mate 😬😬

Well my elbow tendinopathy turned out to last almost one year, and just when it felt ok again I broke an ACL snowboarding, so no content for a while!! But still hangboarding and conditioning, will be back for that 8A :D and I'll do an injury podcast / serie too at some point. See you in the forest!!

@@tallbetaclimbing oh no… I know those injuries all to well. Lots of wishes for a speedy recovery and looking forward to future content… cya in the forest :)

Hehehe not sure thatmy beta is that helpful thought 🤣 Even if this one is quite basic... when are you coming to Bleau ??

Nice! Yes it must be the best beta regardless of height

Thanks ! You can have great conditions as of mid september, but there is always risk of consecutive weeks of rain, so you should wait the last minut to plan, or have a plan B

​@@tallbetaclimbing cheers, I plan to stay for 1-2months in font, probably will see you around as there's loads of stuff on my 'radar' such as Ill nino etc lol, not as crazy armspan as you, but also 193cm (0+armspan) and 81-82kg

@@sirlockoff Ah nice, you have enough time to be sure to have 5 stars days !! Sure send me a message when you are there :)

@@tallbetaclimbing are you climbing? not sure how to message in yt!

@@sirlockoff hey mate! I'm still doing rehab for golfer elbow... Probably no hard climbing before spring :(

Thanks mate :) it sure did !

Ah nice, that would really be a tall beta then !! Gotta go and try it

Ah yeah holding without the foot must be hard for sure !! I did not try Action Directe yet, it looked a bit too lowball ahah, but I will next time, looks like it's a popular one !

Ah oui le talon gauche ça m'avait impressionné qu'il le garde aussi ! Après pour tenir le plat main gauche c'etait un peu en dynamique j'ai vite ramené ma main droite, pas sûr que je le tienne longtemps en statique. Mais c'est sûr que des bonnes conditions aident aussi pour ce genre de plats et là ça devient compliqué !

Ah I didn't notice at the time but looks like for sure ! They were very nice anyway :)

Thanks a lot mate ! See you in the forest !

For sure !!

ahah well maybe it did then sorry !!

Maybe I just didn't find the beta, my friend Paul talks about a finger lock, I never found any :) It took me 15 minutes in total so not a struggle either, but on the send try it felt limit, maybe if I dial it better it will feel easy !

Non ça feelait moins que 7A indeed, et le bloc aurait pu être cool si la main droite était pas une lame de rasoir !!

Ah c'est ptet pour ça que j'ai trouvé ça dur, j'ai pas lock la main droite j'étais en épaule 😅

Thanks mate :)

Thanks mate !! Yes, I just uploaded it ! safer than the one from Filip ahah

Hehe it's on the list! But first let's go do Trojan War...

🤜🤛 hehe thanks mate !!

thanks mate ! hope to see you in the forest :) :)

Felt better than it looked 😁

Yeah right ! Felt like it would be impossible with even a few centimeters less, especially the sit...

Merci, c'est que c'est du boulot de bosser l'élégance de sa sortie

Thank you master from down under 😌

For sure! Friendly with the tall!!

Thanks mate ! Sure is a great boulder, with a view...

Thanks ! Yeah sure you can rent some at Smylies in Springfield, 25 minutes from Castle Hill :)

shiieeet bro

Yes bien cool ! Moelleuse mais aussi super glissante, bonjour les glissades de pads jusqu'en bas dès que c'est un peu pentu 😅

Thanks! I'd say about 7A/+ for me? Douille indeed, but it feels good sometimes :) The dyno version is probably still quite hard, Kevin Lopata said 7C/+ and he is 189cm.

@@tallbetaclimbing Maybe someone should write an email to bleau info saying the non-dyno version should be 7B or something then? I mean technically it adds a hold to the original line which was a dyno AFAIK. But then I know they don't like variations of existing lines (they already ignored one that I submitted). Don't take me wrong I'll go try it and take the douille if I can, but sometimes it's weird knowing I cannot complete some 7A's that regular people consider soft, and can do 7B dynos in a few tries. Tall life I guess!

@@maginkub Yeah I really don't know what to do about that... but if you want to try, be aware that it's still a very dynamic move even if not really a dyno. I have thought way too much about height and grades, and don't know what to think anymore. I will never be in somebody else's body so I can only make grade assumptions for myself and comparing how it felt compared to other boulders. I wouldn't be a fan of a grading system that always says like "7A between 150cm and 165cm, then 6C+ until 175cm, etc..." because it would make things super complicated. On Bleau.info I really like what they did with being able to write down your height and span : just look for the grade proposition for people with your height ! Really nice. It's an endless debate, and honestly I think it only matters if it's your first of the grade, you just have to be honest with yourself : if Ariane 5 was my first 7C, I don't think I wouldn't give myself it as a 7C, but if it was like Welcome To Tijuana I would give it to me :) Ah, there, I just went way too big in this topic ! Happy climbing mate, and see you in the forest ! 🌲🌲

Hehe merci poto !

Merci mais pas autant que toi Thavi 😘

Hehe yes le training paie !!

You have a sharp eye my friend 🧐

A nice fellow who has an extra shot of climbing energy when the first non smooth dude sends a boudler 😶‍🌫

Thanks mate, happy to see it was useful, I added it!! Happy climbing!

@@tallbetaclimbing Thanks! :)

Thanks!! Yeah that's a pretty obscure recommendation, especially if you are not into climbing!!

Merci oui j'étais pas loin d'en rester là 😅

Yo Brice ah yes je me demandais si ça passait toujours, ça avait l'air mais Bleau.info parlait d'une prise cassée

@@tallbetaclimbing Alors le départ de boucherie est effectivement cassé, ça fait toujours mais trop dur pour moi.. En fait tu pars dans l'araignée , et une fois sur la rampe au lieu de partir à gauche tu pars à droite en passant sous l'arbre pour rejoindre la sortie de boucherie. Et leur histoire de l'araignée directe je connaissais pas, toujours sortie dans charcuterie ou boucherie Et peut être que ça a évolué depuis 💪💪

Hehe once I finally did the crux I was willing to use every centimeter of tallness to make sure I don't have to do it again, it is so hard on the wrists !!