@MikeBaxterABC Thanks! When I installed this shifter there was not a lot of information on KZbin about it. So, I decided to put it into a video. Thought it might help some other people out. Thanks so much for watching. Good luck with your install.

@@Robertbush-s7t Thanks!

@heathmenezes9628 No, sorry, don't have any schematics. I just measured the panels and figured out how much room I had at the back of my shop. I figured out I could put eight panels in a row in 2 rows high. I also had to figure out my voltage end wattage. Because I couldn't go over 600V/DC also, I couldn't go over 3000 watts per string. Once I did all the math. I figured out I could put 8 panels in series on 4 strings. This worked out very well. Thanks for watching and thanks for your question.

@satekeeper Yes, you are correct. The metal strut has gone up quite a bit when I bought it. This stuff was around $2 a foot, and now I believe it's about $4 to $4.50 a foot, more than double the price. The only thing I would do if I was using wood. Which I did on a rack I built this summer is. I would recommend putting some type of waterproofing on it or a stain. That would waterproof it because you know untreated would will expand and contract, especially if it gets wet. Buy treating it with a stain or some type of waterproof ing. This will help with the expansion and contraction of the woods some.

@satekeeper Yes, instead of the unistrut, you could run wood. The main reason I used unistrut on these racks was to strengthen them up a little more because they were tilting racks. Also, this helps when grounding the panels. I was able to run a groundwire to each unistrut, which saves a lot of groundwater and ground clams. I've recently built another rack on the back of my house and this one. I did not use unistrut on, and I have to ground all of the panels individually, which costs a little more for the groundwater and all the grounds straps I need.

@@budslife Thank you, Bud. Where I live, unistrut has become very expensive. I can see the benefits. Right now I am considering anchor bolts as my panels all have mounting holes intended for the purpose. I love these designs that are adjustable, it makes a big difference on the yield. Definitely using the bolt-pivot style like you have here.

Thanks, this rack has been up now for 4 years and is still working great. Thanks for watching!

Yes

I'm glad you liked it, 👍 thanks for watching!

I would say you get about a 10% percent increase in output when you tilt them from wintertime to summertime. The best thing I like about being able to tilt my panels is if there's a storm coming, I can tilt them almost flat so they hardly catch any wind. That's the biggest benefit for me. If you were in an area where you had a lot of trees around and didn't have as much wind. This may not benefit you as much. This has been my experience with having tiltable panels. I hope this helps thanks for watching.

I think it was an old 100lbs tank. Thanks for watching!

It was pretty easy to do, everything bolted right up. Certainly makes a nice heavy duty truck. Putting a 2500 frame under a 1500 truck.

Yes, the bracing would be necessary for a PV rack this size. I do have two smaller racks that I don't have braced, and they're holding up fine.

Thanks for watching. This big rack is still standing in through hurricane ( Fiona ) and no problem. Here's a video link to the 2 smaller rocks. I built-in front of this bigger rack. I like these racks much better because they don't catch as much wind. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZuQpnluZpafbdksi=ATUvYzHMQyINqbvT

I just used the stock harness.

They usually just snap back together if you didn't destroy the fitting taking it apart.

Sorry i meant the fuel line , ive got this set up on my van and the fuel line no way would let 1 out and back in. I could cut one out the line but id not get 1 back in.

They usually snap back in if they don't. That usually means you've damaged a little clip inside the fitting, and you'll need to replace the whole fitting. That can be tricky, but it can be done. I'm pretty sure there are videos on youtube on how to replace these plastic fittings.

@@budslife its not the fitting id struggle with. Its getting a new fitting put into the original fuel hose. Ive had to replace the hose.

@user-mj4xp7wi3p try this video it might help you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4WbhKGbZdaSaMksi=fIsdv_rx7Dk8X6LI

Yeah, that would have been a good idea. But this tank was sitting in a scrap yard opened for many years, so there was absolutely no propane in it. There was actually a bunch of water in it when I got it. But yes, I should have mentioned that in my video.

I'm not sure, but I have no problem pulling it around the yard with my 20HP lawn tractor.

@diegobambozzi8479 You could put less water in it, so it's lighter to pull. Just a thought.

I'm pretty sure you can just swap the bell housing and keep your original transmission and transfer case that came with your truck. But I don't know for sure because i've never done a four wheel drive LS swap. Thanks for watching!

Yup, that would work, too. Thanks for watching!

2012728 is the part number, I ordered it from Rock Auto.

I sold it for $5900, which I thought was a pretty good deal. There was around 280,000 km when I sold it. Thanks for watching!

I think I made them approximately three inches long. Thanks for watching the video.

Where are you located?

I think I used around 80 spikes.