@@AddamsPlayground I bet it’s the electrical terminals. I had to solder them

Thanks! Was just a mini project before I can get onto the tanker. It’s going to be a few weeks before I can start it, especially with the Knox Vintage Bash trip coming up so sorry for the wait in advance. Trust me, I’m itching to get into it too!

@@EMPTYPOCKETSRC The wiring definitely needed soldering. Just wrapping the wires around the terminals made for loose connections and would not work properly.

3 and a bit weeks and you’ll be here mate!

@@alantaylor353 yeah, my best effort to date, came out lovely!

@@alantaylor353 Hi Alan and thank you. Very much appreciated, and g’day from Australia! 🇦🇺

Thanks Mark, glad you liked it!

Thank you! That’s exactly it! The sound and the feel takes you right back, that’s one of the reasons I changed my mind to take it.

I can’t believe I actually sold my original SRB Rough Rider to buy the Hornet years ago but hey, I was only 13 at the time! They are great fun, and really basic. Nostalgia plays a big part for me. I’m not bothered if I come last Lol. Yeah, I hope the diff stays together too mate!

@@jason.bochniak i never had the tamiya’s when i was little. So im now making up for it 😂

@@lo2713 Glad to hear you’re making up for it now! I only had the two growing up. Combined birthday and Christmas presents from all family chipping in. They were so expensive.

@@noidnomis I’ve never had one either, I think it’s worth doing even though you have to strip it all to bits. I’ll just have to see how it goes, i’m guessing they don’t last forever and need maintenance. Also there’s the plastic gear in between as a weak point. I did have to adjust the diff, it was too tight with 1/8 turn. Let me know how you go with yours!

@@jason.bochniak Good to know! I will have a look for a set. I don't recall every having to replace a plastic gear that I know of and I used to really thrash on the runner I had back then. Going full on reverse while going full speed forward on an asphalt surface. I did make a complete brass gear set as a project in a machine shop class while in high school, I never actually used it though. I was under the impression that using all brass gears under such high loads would make them wear faster, so said the teacher, but mind you that was with no digital measuring done on an analog milling machine made from who knows what kind of brass material, which might be why the teacher said that. I'll have to do some research..

You are probably right mate. If you have all metal, you’re adding weight and stress to other parts. The plastic gears are nice and cheap too. They do disintegrate with age though, which I guess is expected. When I restored the old MK2 Ranger some of the teeth fell off in my hands from that middle gear. Luckily I found a new old stock set. Sorry to ask, but what is your name mate, I can never find it!

@@AddamsPlayground I don’t think it can make it any worse lol! Nice little upgrade for the Fighting Buggy? I’m sure the Bash will be great fun Addam. Cheers mate.

@@jason.bochniak I do have one here for it, I just have not wanted to tear it all apart to change the diff yet. Like you showed in the video it is a lot of disassembly needed. I have not convinced myself to do it yet LOL!!!

@@AddamsPlayground I’m hearing you, I bought it ready to install in a new one I have sat on the shelf. Then Knox came up so I decided to install it in my first built re-re to take. I also have 2 built re-re Sand Scorchers. I now feel I have to have all the same so need to buy 3 more lol!

Thank you! I’m really looking forward to it. More fine tuning in progress…

@@lo2713 Thanks Richard, great tip! Do you mean the main bolt holding it together? Im planning on doing it at the weekend.

@@jason.bochniak yeah, it dont say to thread lock it, but it needs it 👍

@@lo2713 OK thanks mate. I will do it!

@@richardbradley2641 lol! I bet it did! 🤣 Mine on the grass with a flat 6.6v battery was probably the worst I’ve seen it go, not a good demo. The only decent battery I had went flat in the Hotshot. Up and down the drive with a 2s lipo it goes like stink and takes off over the slightest bump!

@@jason.bochniak How long did/do your batteries last? The model shop told me 15-20 mins run time per charge, I got 40-45 mins per battery after the upgrades even if fast charged!

The 2S 3100 stick pack ran for about 18mins after a full balanced charge in then Hotshot. The 6.6V Tamiya Life battery only lasted about 2 mins but I’ve just realised, I swapped it into the hornet and I thought it was flat after another 30 seconds. The problem is the ESC is set to high cut off in the Hornet which is for Lipo. The life batteries have a low cut off setting so I think there would be more juice in it. I’m going to fully charge it and have another run test. I haven’t tried the new 2S lipo shorty yet other than on the bench. It does spin the wheels up a lot faster though!

@@68burnout Thanks Ruud, it will be great. I guess there will be a ton of footage!

@@LukesVintageRC Cheers Luke!

@@noidnomis I’ll need to strip most of the buggy down to install it.

@@jason.bochniak True, but it'll be worth it..😎

No worries Jase, thanks for the welcome. I’m sure it will be excellent!

100%, I cannot wait! Shame you can’t make it but it’s one hell of a trip. Keith’s track looks the business, you’re lucky you can go there!

Thanks Mark, I will do it just for you!

@@jason.bochniak top Man 😊

@@markconnor269 I’d better get on with it lol.

Thanks Sacha, you guys are great!

Approx $60 US

Maybe, I'll have to ask the boss.

Does she ask you about what she wants .😂

@@bradkalman2353 not sure. I’ll check 🤣

@@artagain8977 Thankyou! Buckle up, there are a few episodes lol.

Hi Mike, they sound great colour schemes. I did think about doing metallic bronze on the Ford but went for the safe option. Hopefully you’ve checked out my Sand Scorcher paint videos too. I have a pile of builds to get to including a Rough Rider I’m planning on painting in the alternative blue & white scheme. Next build should be the fuel tanker for the Grand Hauler. Thanks again for watching!

@@andrewryalls2352 I found them on eBay, pack of 3 with different nib thicknesses

@@andrewryalls2352 if you search for liquid chrome marker you should find them

@@gabormihaly667 Yeah you can drive, can always paint another one!

@@GARYU-S44 Thank you, I will try!

@@jason.bochniak 😁🤝

Thanks Keith. I kind of wish I’d painted it. Body likes removed and painted Gun Metal lol.

Thanks mate. It’s going to be sub zero cool lol. Shell stickers, motorised legs, lights, oil dampers. Love it!

Thank you! These trucks are so cool!

@@jason.bochniak and you know what, there is only one way to build them, and that is the right way! There is no wrong way.

Hopefully I did it the right way!

@@jason.bochniak You absolutley nailed it! Perfect! And you showed me some new tricks on how to do things. Thanks!

Thanks mate and glad to be of some help!

Thanks Trey. It took way too long but came out great!

Thanks, I think a transmitter with more channels like you use would be better.

Thank you, appreciate the comment & thanks for watching!

@@jason.bochniak ✌️👍😊💜

@@RCRetro thanks again! I’m no pro by any stretch. Painting outside, no booth, no PPE and making it up as I go along lol. I do my best.

@@RCRetro thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Much appreciated!

Thanks Danny. Do you mean fill & remove the lines? I’ve seen it done but I like to see the sunroof. I left it loose, it’s taped in from the inside so it can be opened for display. I know Keith glued his open on his Ford Ranger, the front join doesn’t really bother me really. Cheers.

@@dannyseville2543 Now you’ve mentioned it, I may have to give it a go if I do another one lol. Cheers for subscribing, very much appreciated Danny!

I didn't know if it was preference or there was another reason. I did glue my sunroof and then had the bright idea to use superglue as the filler...... yeah, that wasn't the best idea, especially when I have some milliput sat here. I did the same as you with the mould lines on the arches though. The gunmetal and burnt orange really does work though. I'm torn between 2 ford colours of Ruby red or juice green metallic

@@dannyseville2543 glue and paint cause me the most headaches lol. I’ve had plenty of problems with glue on my current Grand Hauler series, just on the last episode now, the body. Red or Green, I’m the worst person to offer advice as I’m Red/Green colour blind. I’m sure they’d both look great with the gun metal. I’m guessing the green is lighter than the red so would contrast better? Maybe do a couple of tests first. The other thing with the body lines is the panel fit. The sunroof is so bad it looks like it’s off a different kit. If I couldn’t blend it perfectly I wouldn’t be happy with it so prefer to leave it as a feature.

Hi Dieter, it was a gift for a friend in the USA. Keith @RC Icons.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4GwpKGNecRlr6ssi=LMdV9b2gZ_SO64wL

@@nhansme Awesome, thanks for watching!

@@vandal_ross thank you!

@@stephenpheonix6549 thanks Stephen, it was hard to let it go!

@@jason.bochniak​​⁠sure it was! Watching you do so many coats of paint and so much effort into it. What a masterpiece though.

@@stephenpheonix6549 thanks again Stephen, you’re too kind 🙌

@@xa9131 Thank you, it came out lovely mate.

@@JustforFun-xh6ld Thanks mate, appreciate the awesome comment. Mate, I’m no expert, learning all the time and happy to share the mistakes with the small wins if it can help!

@@SwiftSlots cheers!

@@LukesVintageRC Hey Luke, thanks for the compliment and subscribing. Just subscribed to you too mate!

Thanks again, glad you liked it.

Thats a good question and I’m not sure! Tell me what it would do please?

It seems it will light up the metallic parts so it will ge brighter.

@@waanderse-racing7451 OK thanks for that, I’ll test that out in future.