@@anselmountain6884 it replaces the 8.2K resistor. If you don’t know how to use a potentiometer as a variable resistor, just google it, but basically you use the center lead(wiper) and one of the outside(carbon strip) leads as the legs of a resistor, giving you an adjustable resistor. The third lead will not be used, or it can be connected to the wiper.

@@pfg_pedals thanks

@@daviddelossantos6075 yes, that’s exactly what it does. As a side benefit it also filters the power supply, lowering background noise and provides reverse polarity protection in the event an incorrect power supply is used. There is a voltage regulator chip and the capacitor network on the underside. It’s not completely necessary but it really improves performance all around.

@@daviddelossantos6075 thank you.

@@darrylstaflund3431 glad it helped.

They’re honestly kinda terrible. The housing is the coolest part. I recommend at least swapping out the PCB for vintage style, and ideally gutting entirely. Especially with the early Arbiter branded Dunlop. The guts can be removed easily and reinstalled if for some reason you ever wanted to restore it to original. You can make it a really nice, authentic vintage replica, and they do look the part of the early FF. There are really nice OEM style parts available to make it slick.

@@luukderuijter1332 Not at all. It’s what it’s there for.

Very cool. Thanks for checking it out.

@@secretchiefjoseph thanks a lot. I really appreciate your kindness.

Thanks so much!

@@jayhernandez8965 no I made a few custom requests in the EJ spirit, but it was the one that got me into the sound.

That’s because it’s the intro to their biggest single, “Backwater.” Thanks for checking it out.

Now - anybody who knows why the volume goes down when i raise the sustain? Is this as it should be? Is there other magic tricks?

@@mattiasdahlberg8525 the volume will lower as you raise the sustain, which is why there is a volume control. It’s just a function of how compression works. The problem was that if your Preacher wasn’t properly set inside, you wouldn’t be able to get to unity gain with higher sustain settings.

@@fampedersen99 I was inspired by your comment to do something more bass centered. Thanks for the support.

@@pfg_pedalsKeep on rocking😀 /Tommy

@@fampedersen99 thank you kindly.

@@Friedenf thank you

@@j_dog7884 yeah man. This is actually the guts from that failed build.

Nice!

@@dariuszhylewicz2208 it’s an Origin 50 with a set of NOS preamp tubes, Eminence Texas Heat speaker, and several other mods for tone and reliability.

@@IronSwan-ll5ju sweet. Thanks for checking them out.

@@Karvaton_koiranvaatekauppa it’s a carbon zinc “PKCELL” brand marketed for smoke detectors that has been depleted to right at 9V. They tend to run about 9.9-10V right out of the box. It sounds even better at 8V, but for demos I test it right at 9 so people get an idea what it sounds like with a standard power supply. The bias voltage is also set lower, same as his signature Fuzz Face, so using a depleted battery isn’t totally necessary.

@@pfg_pedals this is interesting

@IronSwan-ll5ju yeah, many people swear the older carbon zinc batteries that were available in the 60s make a difference in the sound. I am still on the fence, but I do like how they can be depleted down to a lower voltage and then still provide power at that level for some time to come. Modern alkaline batteries have a different behavior where they tend to stay at their full potential until they are almost completely drained at which time they quickly drop below the target voltage of 6.5-8V. The effect of lower voltage was important for him while using vintage FFPs that they didn’t want to mod and couldn’t adjust the bias. If you are able to adjust the bias, then you don’t really need to mess with keeping a cigar box full of partially drained batteries, as Mr. Johnson does according to the lore. The batteries do have a different impedance and DC resistance than alkaline so there is something to be said for the effect they may have, but it’s likely negligible.

@@pfg_pedals Depleted carbon zink, good stuff!! To Eric's credit, he is right about the batteries when it comes to wah and fuzz.

@@froy771 the Tweak Fuzz is a 9V circuit.

@@ColeDrankWilly thank you for checking it out.

Yes the bias process will be the same provided it was installed properly.

Just be careful and aware that this is a PNP-based fuzz, therefore you should only use a 9V supply that is isolated from your other 9V supplies.

No, but I am about a half hour outside of the city.

@@jayhernandez8965 that is very kind of you. It’s mostly the Zen circuit but I tweaked the values for my ear and lowered the gain just a bit to make it stack better. I am about to list the first one in a few minutes.

Thanks for the input. According to EHX it sets the gain of the compressor stage, but that can be interpreted a few different ways. I have not even looked at the schematic though, so I may very well be wrong, but the important thing is it solved the problem for a lot of people.

@@pfg_pedals That's been my biggest concern with this pedal, this video talked me into trying one out. Danke

@@TannerTbonePape no, I wasn’t aware that he was doing the Klon mods. All I did was take a pretty good Klone and put in the end zone by giving it the correct original parts. While they proudly advertise as using original 1N34A diodes, they actually used the modern silicon Schotky diodes that now bear that number. Sure they have the same voltage drop but, the germaniums just sound right. They made another minor change that I reversed, but I’m not sure if it was intentional or they just used a different source for their schematic.

@@farleymiller8834 thanks. You are the man.

Origin 50.