Glad I could help! I’m starting to build a more performance version of the 230.

Planning on it, need to finish editing, but need to take it all apart once again, case halfs leak when they didn’t before, but they were welded so that’s probably why.

Is there anyone that I can send my kicker gear to have that done?

I would bring the engine to your nearest rebuild shop. Would be cool to see one in a 55.

I want to build a turbo 300 ford, or jeep 4.0, better head options, roller cams, intakes are always the hard part to find. Trying to find a 4 barrel intake.

I’ll have to do this again now that I got a cam kit with springs and I fixed the kicker issue. The bike has a lot of top end now.

I want to put a 20hp Briggs or predator in my 71 Olympic so then I’ll have a 4 stroke with electric start. A small v twin would be cool as well but would like to keep the weight down.

@@Trikekid84 Interesting thought but you just know there's a good reason all snow sleds are 2 cycle. Drove sleds for about 6 or 7 years some 40 years ago and I hated having to mix gas and oil. I think it was Yamaha that came out with the first sleds that you didn't need to premix you just added oil to one reservoir and gas to the gas tank. I'm sure they are all engineer that way now. I am from the Fred Flintstone era of snowmobiling. Extremely simplistic, but cheap and affordable.

I'm curious how much top end you would gain. This cam I got really helped mid range to top end. Still adjusting and fighting my china 28mm carb.

@@Trikekid84 i read that the 26-27 was better 26 had less problems

@@winterholdsguard1977 yeah, stock carb still has good response where my bigger carb had less response but pulled longer in the rpms.

That's actually how the bearings are made, besides being broken. I'm using the case halfs I have because they are still good. 👍

Yeah, the 670 mach is a great sled. This engine will last me a long time since I'm not going to be putting a lot of miles on, maybe some classic lake cross racing but mostly light trail riding. I think the 800s have better oiling provisions, i'm going to look into that. But yes the last year's mach z's are the ones worth getting, but cost more $$$. They sound cool, but it's a heavy sled.

I had to take out the part where I sync carbs because that was too much to handle lol

I know a guy in Green Bay who did it, $1000. Then I bought 3 freshly re plates cylinders from millinium tech, and new spi pistons, rings, and gaskets.

@@Trikekid84 $1k for a properly done triple crank with all new parts is reasonable. So long as it's assembled right and is air-tight it will run well for a long time. When I do multi-cylinder crankshafts I prefer to have the crankcases it will be going into on hand. I can set the widths perfectly and once it's trued can be set in them to avoid getting banged around.

@@BillyWillicker yes, I gave the guy both case half's and he does cranks for many different sleds. Stuff that I own, friends, and racers from eagle River and other things. I would not know where else to bring the crank, and I definitely don't know how. I understand how to rebuild a single cyl crank, but never done one 100% by myself yet.

@@Trikekid84 It's just like a single, only a lot more width setting, and a LOT more truing. I do mostly singles and can get them down under .001" runout and usually better - not sure why I do when the spec is .003", but hey better is better. The straighter it is off the press the easier it will line up in the end so the press work is important. Cranks are definitely one of those things that the more you do the better you get.

It'll never wear out of phase with the crank! Which also helps the timing always be correct. Ford did this on the 300 as well which makes them last a long time. Not sure why other engines even use chains.

Not sure of hand, but would definitely be a good fit.

No cat, Jones glass pack where the cat was, then 2 ¼ pipe all the way to the bumper. I think I put the glass pack on backwards by accident but it made it quieter, basically the same as having just a cat and nothing behind it.

Floats are not adjusted or the float needle is not sealing. Probably an easy fix. Clean it, make sure the needle is clean, floats should sit level with the base of the carb while holding the carb upside down. Good luck!

How can i look it up on youtube .... Iam sorry this is my firts dirtbike not trying to mess it up

@@andyarmendariz647 if you look back on my channel I have a carb rebuild video which shows everything. It's a snowmobile carb but it's all the same.

I'm not sure, get ahold of 12bolt.com maybe or search on Rock Auto.

Nope!

Thanks for the info. Your truck sounds great. I have a 2003 Silverado and that’s the perfect kit I was looking for thanks.

@@brookealexander9728 I kind of want to just put a pipe in where the glass pack is now and make it a little louder. I get about 14-15mpg not towing anything. V8 mode all the time no cylinder deactivation, I have the Range plugged in.

No, they never came with a street title unfortunately.

261 was a truck motor in U. S

Headers on a tbi or OBD2 efi setup won't really gain you any power without a tune. BUT... it'll sound good at least. Short tubes are good for a truck application, but I've always liked the sound of long tubes, can't beat it. The problem with a 6cyl vs a V8 though is high rpms they get raspy, like a tractor, but with a good muffler like a flow master 40 it'll sound good. Glasspack might be too "derby car" sounding. I would go 2.5" exhaust pipe too to try and get a deep sound. I only have 2 1/4 but I like how mine sounds. But I only have stock manifolds so it's about as good as it can be.

Yeah i know what you mean because you can't tell what bike I'm on, but my next video I had it too far down and you can't see where I'm going haha. I'm getting it figured out. Plan on getting a china bike? I would recommend the brozz over the shark or hawk if you're looking at a 250cc.