Late night Tip by Three 6 Mafia

What exactly do you mean by that? A pair of SA-12s with decent power is nothing to be trifled with, and the excursion I used to get out of a rebuilt SA-8 V1 always impressed me more than I ever saw from a Type R. Not to say that they're bad woofers or that I would turn my nose up if someone offered me one or two for a good price.

The area under the hatch is barely big enough for a sealed enclosure let alone a ported one, otherwise I would have had a vented box.

@@I1S1337 i see

Thanks much

God's Clan 18 inch subs don’t need to move much to make bass because of more air flow. But 18 are also clearer and hit harder.

I had 0 gauge ran under the hood along with a high output 230 amp alternator, and the amp was only running 4 gauge. It's all in the description.

Tornado This is inside the very small area under the hatch of a dodge stealth. There was no room for a ported enclosure. And I was also going for SQ over SPL so sealed was the way to go anyway.

Thank you much

I've tried sundown, didn't care for the SA12, and that would be the equivalent to the type R in price and RMS. The sound quality is a lot better on the alpine. I wasn't going for loud, i went for SQ. and i was happy. I've done loud and if i had to choose i would keep this setup if i could go back.

at the time i paid 180 for each Type R, the arc audio amp was i think 650 or close to that, the kicker 4 channel i got a decent deal on i think it was only like 120, the small XS battery was 80, my Excelon head unit was 300, the speakers were 100 per pair, the battery under the hood was 340, the high output alternator was 280, and then add the price of the 1/0 and 4 gauge wire and RCA's, so like another 200. So in total about $2,350 without accounting for tax.

the song is called Woofer Cooker

I1S1337 thank you

this is a 94 dodge stealth it is very small inside and i found with the subs directly under the hatch it sounded the best. the sound waves travel further and bounce off of each other more and that is what you want.

Keep the good bass up...

No sir, not even close, jammed these for a year like this all the time. Can't blow a sub if you don't over power it or send it a clipped or distorted signal.

yup these can take a beating i bean slamming mine for about 3 years but not this hard. hes near maxing these boys out.

i believe it was my galaxy s3

I'm surprised it picks up the bass

I1S1337 hello there fellow KZbinr very nice quality upload

legend mode Samsung Galaxy S3

I1S1337 igt

+insta kill right on, lol

+Dillon Brown Heck yea it did! i think most people would have been surprised!

the amp puts out a little over the rated 125@4ohms and the component set is rated only for 60rms. but i have had no problems at all. There is some loss of power when you run the external crossover that comes with the components. and if you look at what the midbass is rated for for power and the tweeter separately its more than the 60 rms the box says. since then ive actually removed the crossover and im running the tweeters on the front channels (125 rms per side) and the mids on the rear channels (125 rms per side as well). and i dont have the 6x9s in anymore because i had removed them when i did my wall build. But just the components running active off of the jad800.4 is louder by far and clearer than this was at the time even with the 6x9s. its crazy they have been taking over double the rated power for over a year and no issues. just make sure if you do run them active you set your crossover on the amp correctly.

i had originally planned on getting another one of the arc amps. but i ended up going bigger and getting some new equipment

They rated 750 rms each. Type xs are 1k

***** they work perfectly well in sealed boxes. what are you running it on and what size box?

I1S1337 50 watts and 1.75 ft... ok I know now the watts

50watts !!! lmao ! any sub rated 1000watt RMS is gonna suck on 50watts . you will get the most output out of a ported box but requires a decent size box , bandpass for wide range and is also the largest box size wise , sealed box setups have the lowest output but use the least space .

Put it in a 3.75^ft port, you'll fall in love. It's not bad in my sealed enclosure but ported 100% run 1,200 rmsw to each VCW154 I'll have 1,540 each sub #nvxvad27001

Sucios Moblife what do you mean by "can install tweeters on this"? if you mean can you mount the tweeter to the midbass, then no you cannot.

I1S1337 Like hook up some Tweeters on this 6x9 I want to install some soundstream Tweeters

daniel rodriguez its all in the amp :)

Randy Levelston im in Port Huron Michigan

LOV2XLR8 1000 RMS

great amps, i love them. They just take a lot of power to run them, so if you feed them they power they want, they put out good power. I had a 110 ah battery hooked up to each one, always did me well

I have the 2000 Watt and it's a great app and it's pushed in my L7 kicker 12 inch likes there ain't no tomorrow

thanks much ^_^, i now have 15s walled off behind the driver and passenger seats on 4k. changing again soon though to SQ, had my fun with SPL

@I1S1337, the only thing different I'm going to do to mine is switch out the amps when I'm ready. Right now I've got that 4000w power acoustik to the subs but I'll probably eventually switch it out for a Brutus. Then I'll find another replacement for the 2600w power acoustik I've got wired to the JL's. When I decide to redo the whole system, I'm going with DD9500j's

you should look at getting a better amp to really push them to their potential, im not trying to bash your setup but that power acoustik amp does not do the power it states. With an amp that pushes a true 2000rms you'd be able to tell the difference instantly. I can help you out with amps if you're looking to really push your system.

No offense taken, I know what I've got is middle class and I know it's not putting out what it says it is. When I'm ready, I'll put in another amp. This has been a learning experience for me and I'm thinking about making a career out of this stuff. It was fun, a little frustrating. But fun. But yeah, any pointers you can give me, fire away. I still don't understand RMS. And what exactly is the big 3?

randomness72838 RMS is the real power the amp is going to put out, so when a sub says it takes 500rms, you want to look for an amp that will put out the 500rms and usually a little more is fine because your most likely going to drop a little in voltage and your amp wont always push the 500rms. A lot of lower end brands will put a MAX wattage rating on their subs and amps, this means nothing. you want to look for the rms ratings, those are the real ratings you look for. For example, an amp that says 2000watts max might only push 1000rms. and thats if youre lucky. Some dont even do 10% of what the max says. (example: planet audio ac3000.1d only does 300 watts rms. pretty sad. so you have to watch what brands you buy. Some better brands do put the max watts on their amps, example RE audio, good brand and will do the rms ratings it says. you just have to look for what it says for the rms and not max. The big 3 is just upgrading your cars factory wiring under the hood. You dont have to replace the factory wire, you can just add the new wire in. You run larger wire usually 1/0 gauge, 4gauge for smaller systems is fine and will help, from the alternator to the battery, then from the battery negative to the engine ground, and then from the batteries negative again to a solid ground point on the frame.

randomness72838 Also, my amp was an Arc Audio KS1200.1, best amp ive owned so far. good clean power. not the most power but one of the best brands for sound quality. my 1200 rms amp was just over 600$

+I1S1337 I appreciate your input brother. I'll keep an eye on that next time!

There really isnt room inside this car to make a ported enclosure, so the sealed one fit just right and was surprisingly loud. And it was nice being able to full tilt any song and not have to worry about blowing them or playing out of tuning

Louder but less accurate.

Well, what amp are you running? what car do you have them in, box size, and position of the box. It all plays a large factor

@@I1S1337 well my 1 type r is moving more air than yours

Its all in the Description

they are actually in the factory location on the dash facing up towards the windshield

I1S1337 Damn that's still pretty loud how do you like them ? Are they worth the money and how you had different speakers in the past that you can compare them to ? I have some polk audio ones but I wanted to upgrade to some louder and good quality ones

liled936 Ive owned almost all the major brand door speakers, JBL/Infinity, Kicker, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer. And i would have to say i am the most pleased with these over all the others. They take the power from my amp very well, something the other ones could not, excluding the Rockfords (they took power fine). Please do not take offense but my brother in law has some experience with Polk and he says that all of their speakers are garbage except for their 3 1/2" coaxial. I have no experience with them so i can not say. You cant beat these for the price. Very impressed with NVX, they have good quality products and costumer service at very affordable prices

I1S1337 it's all good man I thought so that's why I wanted to get something different I have the nvx amp for my subs and it made a huge difference that's why I wanted to kno how there speakers were

I1S1337 it's all good man I thought so that's why I wanted to get something different I have the nvx amp for my subs and it made a huge difference that's why I wanted to kno how there speakers were

Yea, its me Chris ;)