Glad it helped you. There is just one spring thats located at the bottom.

@ i appreciate it very much! i know theres some type of grease thats supposed to help the friction by any chance you have any idea what type of grease would be okay to apply ?

@@Froggalishus I would recommend white lithium grease as all the mechanism components are metal. If there were plastic components, then I would say silicone instead. Just double check the operating temp for the lubricant you chose, it should be rated to about -20 degrees fahrenheit

The way the shaft and lock housing castings interface is similar to the way a cap „screws on” to a water bottle. This makes the shaft twist and insert into the ignition switch as you rotate your car key The problem described here causes the steering wheel lock to fail, it prevents from rotating the wheel. I would say it would be uncommon for a broken shaft to prevent the vehicle from being turned on/off. However a broken tumbler will cause issues turning the vehicle on/off and its primary failure symptom is a spinning key without engaging the rest of the lock housing mechanism Let us know what you find so it helps others out there! Best of luck

@@jush471 yes, sounds like your shaft broke in two pieces, the part on the key side (right) still rotates which make the left side get pushed out, but it will no longer turn as it’s broken in two pieces. You can drill out the spring from the bottom which will unlock the jaws and lock mechanism to rotate the steering wheel again, but you will have to continue to use a screw driver for the ignition switch. If this is your daily vehicle, I recommend replacing entire lock housing, or at least the shaft to keep all functionality in place

@@Ciubaka thank you very very much for the quick reply, and yeah it was my daily until i went for college, in abt 4ish months of not being used the amount of things that started to deteriorate was insane(200k miles)

@@Ciubaka will be drilling the spring out tomorrow, any recommendation of where i should drill before i do it, dont want to put a bunch of holes under the thing, but i guess i will replace the entire housing in the future

@@jush471 its pretty difficult to describe, but its the flat, bottom portion of the lock housing, just about in the middle of it, the good thing is the spring is very thin and malleable, so as long as you drill big enough of a hole, you should have enough access to get a pick in there and fish it out. Check out a couple other "e36 drilling steering lock" videos to get a better idea and let us know how it went. Good luck!

@@Ciubaka thank you, i got it done wasnt hard, only issue is car wont change out of park unless i lift the cover and manually take it out of park, brake lights work fine so i guess the car just doesnt know its on, oh well

@@JittyMR2 could just be the tumbler but at least you’re now armed with the info. Do let us know what you find and best of luck

For me, drilling out the bottom of the housing and removing the spring that locks the steering wheel in place fixed my issue. I can now move my steering wheel and turn my key to start the car. It’s a temporary fix for now, but I will replace my ignition lock housing in the future.

@@JittyMR2 excellent, I’d recommend replacement as the locking mechanism “jaws” might still find a way to act up. Glad you’re back on the road

@@Realstevejobs39 I don’t like altering the existing design as it can introduce problems, in this case they can be fatal. But at your own risk, if you have already removed the top piece, you could additionally drill a hole at the bottom of the lock housing to remove the spring, this will drop the bottom locking piece. This way both top and bottom pieces are no longer functional, removing the steering lock entirely

You could simply remove both the jaws mentioned and the shaft will rotate freeley. I would also take out the bottom springed piece to avoid it catching the steering shaft (although it would be unlikeley, anything is possible). This would be the lowest risk of steering locking up while driving imo.

Unfortunately I’m not aware of any electronic components able to shut down the engine, due to an overheating condition. Does the starter turn over the engine, or does the engine not spin? If that’s the case I would check fuses. If it spins but will not fire up, you might need to check the cylinder compression. Overheating can burn out the valves

@@Ciubaka turns over OK I left it overnight to cool down. Just not firing up. Petrol pump is kicking in when I turn it over. I think it's a job for ducati garage to get the right diagnosis.

@@martinbishop5228 Got it, hopefully it did not overheat too bad, my guess is it might be a valve sealing issue. Let us know what you find, let’s cross fingers it’s something silly

@@Ciubaka you were spot on it was an easy fix. The radiator filler cap is under the key ignition plate. 4 small screws and there it is, how does that not come up on any forum or you tube video 🤔 omg I am so relieved I cannot even tell you in words 🥳🥳

@@martinbishop5228 that’s excellent news! Glad it turned out to be a simple fix. I’m going to have to get a lower radiator protection guard too, to avoid future problems like this. Ride safe

You can replace it, however I bought the entire assembly from BMW for mine, don’t forget the tamper proof boots, if that’s the route you go. Good luck

As in the steering wheel does not lock when the key is removed from the ignition? In this case, the cause will likely be the jaws being jammed into the open position, likely due to being broken as you see in the video. There will be no other way around it but to remove the ignition lock housing and replace it.

@Ciubaka yes that's the problem. I am investigating and I don't have the anti theft bolts so someone has been here before. I can't get the antenna ring off currently so I'm stuck for now. Thanks for the information 👍

If you have the correct key, try rotating the steering wheel a bit while turning the key. It’s possible the steering column is just locked and binding a bit. Otherwise, it would have to be something related to the tumbler or ignition lock housing internals, it sounds like you have the correct key, as I believe an incorrect key just keeps the tumbler spinning, I’d only try a spare key if you run out of options, good luck and keep us in the loop

I believe you have to remove the c-clip retaining ring shown a 1:02 in the video, it is located on the tumbler side. Good luck let us know how it went

@Ciubaka hiya. Yeah I managed to see that in the end. Got it out and the shaft is fine. The only conclusion I can make is that the key and or cylinder is the problem and I cant find one anywhere so I'm going to put a push button start in and that should fix it. thanks.

I have yet to have time to set it up, the usb to serial adapter do not work, INPA with ADS requires a true serial port on the computer for communication to work

I bought a winxp laptop in the meantime and that works fine now @@Ciubaka

Excellent, glad it helped, thanks for sharing your experience for others

Not sure I understand your problem. If the tumbler spins, you either have the wrong key or a broken tumbler. Let us know what you find out

Hey Dylan, that particular line runs from the airbox, snakes around and runs over and beneath the oil cooler where it’s held by a metal clip. The funny thing is it’s capped at the end so it performs no function at all. My bike is a 2015 and my suspicion is that it’s meant to run to the charcoal canister, but since my bike doesn’t have it , it’s just capped off. Hope that helps

@@Ciubaka thank you. I was having trouble finding a couple places for vacuum lines. Turns out they all go to evap. Which i don't have so it was very confusing at first. Thanks again!!

Im glad to hear you find it useful

the bolts have to be replaced, you have to use new ones every time

The jaws from inside the lock housing are not sold separately, you will have to purchase the entire lock housing.

found it on ebay

The rod will not be able to be pulled or pushed from the ignition switch side as it requires rotating to move back and fourth, that’s what the tumbler does as you rotate the key. You will have to work patiently from the tumbler side. As long as you are able to get to roughly the accessory 2 on position with the key, that’s all that’s required. The rest is all done by feel using the bobby pin, 1 try and a couple different angles at the end of the bobby pins. 2. Ensure you are about 1 inch deep with the bobby pin inside the tumbler. 3 once you have the bobby pin in the correct place, rotating it clockwise should require to overcome slight tension. If the bobby pin rotates back and fourth, you are there, rotate bobby pin clockwise and pull at the key, tumbler will pop out, it is very unlikely the rod is preventing the tumbler from coming out.

Nice going, it’s a tough area to work in as the shear bolts are located right under the dash in a tight spot!

@@Ciubaka Had my entire dash out which made access a little easier.

Glad this helped