I bought a used 55k mile turbo/actuator off marketplace for $500, swapped it into my truck and then sold my old turbo core for $400.

​@@flyboy1294Where did you sell your old Turbo actuator? I'd like to see mine for $400 as well 😊

@@Tthrills87 I think the website was called Diesel Punk Cores or something like that

Thanks man, glad it helped someone else

How you got connected the laptop to the truck?

@@Thephoenix.777 OBDLInkMX+, that's what I used, its been a while if i remember correctly -Wifi/ Bluetooth from the laptop. I bought the turbo with actuator all in one. The actuator was already recalibrated so it was turn key which saved a lot of time.

@@jamespurser2341 that you very much I appreciate it bro

The program is called Alpha OBD and the adapter to hook to your OBDII port on the truck is called OBDlink MX+. Several guys have youtube videos on how it all works, I just wanted to show how to do the actuator with it.

Grid heater bolt went through cylinder 6. Common issue on these trucks unfortunately.

If grid heater is bad, is that gonna affect my calibration on actuator (my mechanic is having problem with calibration)? Or turbo/actuator is totally separated from everything? Thanks

It’s just a Borg s488 based turbo. Nothing fancy

@@flyboy1294 Thanks for the info I was going to use an s480 so it should work.

I did not see any test functions in the software, no. Do you have a scan tool or a gauge montior? If you do, look up "VGT position actual" and "VGT position commanded" or something similar. You will be able to see if the turbo is getting hung that way. My last turbo was gettig stuck at 60%, so it'd still work okay but threw P226C error code a few times a week.

@@flyboy1294 I don't have a scan tool.yet. I just ordered a obdlink mx+ and will be getting alphaobd. Can that see the turbo position stuff you were talking abou?

@@mastermoarman You can't see it with AlphaOBD, but the MX+ BT comes with some free software called OBDwiz. You can connect to the truck with that and see the actuator position I believe

Nah this is from october of 2020.Still running the 2v here

I will say, the owner of this car got tired of the 6R80 and sold it for a manual valve body TH400 after a few months. For a track setup where you launch from a dead stop on a prepped surface, or with a sub 600rwhp car the 6R80 is a good option. With a 900hp+ car that wants to do street hits from a roll, not having direct control of the downshifts was dangerous, he felt. You could use the paddle shifters but there was enough lag to where he'd slam into the rev limiter on higher boost settings.

@@flyboy1294 Thanks for responding so fast. I have heard that in max effort applications, it can be less than ideal. However, power by the hour started selling the 4r200 conversion which would convert the trans to 4 speed with gears similar to a 4r70. It retains the 6r's overdrive, converter lockup, and trans brake. I think the 6 speed would be better for daily driving and the 4r200 hub could be done if i was only drag racing. It seems pretty affordable overall to swap besides the shift schedule tuning and the actual purchase of the quick 6. I just cant justify throwing an auto without overdrive in the car especially with that 4r200 hub now available. Id stick with the 4r70 if i could make it reliable with more rpm.

@@madmod For a real street car, the 6R80 is a good swap and plenty strong in stock form. It sounds like it would suit your needs well. I will say I had a built 4R70 in my car, and it worked great at 900+rwhp and 7500rpm shifts for 3 years. Never failed me.

Stock engine it made 410rwhp on 93 octane through an auto. 11psi. I ran 39lb Cobra injectors and a Division X 340 pump back then.

@@flyboy1294 what brackets did you find to fit our cars, I have a 03 gt, just changed intake to the victor jr, 85 mm plenum, mmr comp custom cams, shorties and I have a pump and some upgraded injectors and the opportunity just came up to get the Paxton 1000 but doesn’t have the necessary brackets to mount to my car is a Novi 1000.

@@craigwatson8274 They are discontinued for our cars man. The Novi 1000/2000 use their own bracket set. Vortech bought out Paxton awhile back and they discontinued that series of blower. I got the last bracket on the shelf back in 2014. Used is your only option and they're rare.

Novi 2000 ran out of breath at 680-700 to the tire through an auto. Ran mid 10s. Probably will get over 4 digit power this year with the turbo setup.

Basic forged internals PI head deal. Everything is off the shelf.

Thanks!

Thanks man!

8000rpm. Cams, good valve springs, and a short runner intake are what controls the peak power. Head design doesn't play nearly the same roll. If your goal is 900rwhp or less, 2v PI heads can do it just as easy and much much cheaper than a 4v. There are over 2 dozen 2Vs I know of right around that power level. When you want to get into the 4 digit power levels, it's better to go with a 4v or Coyote imo.

fly1294 thank you for the reply!

*Closed loop fueling at WOT which has saved the engine 4 times now. *Cheaper injectors. (Holley lets you use low impedence. My high impedence 160# ones for the stock ecu were $2k by themselves) *Better timing resolution, and the ability to rev to over 7k where the stock ECU craps out usually *It controls a lot more than fuel and spark. It also runs all my gauges, boost control, turns on fuel pumps, and a few other things. Those would have cost thousands to purchase individually and would've been a nightmare to wire up. *You can make custom timing and fuel modifers to help you spool turbos the stock ECU could never dream of *Anyone with Holley EFI software can look at your tune and datalogs. Its way easier to get help than with the stock ECU crap where you need a protected dongle that costs hundreds to even view the tune. Also FWIW, I used to have a Freddy brown full manual 4R70w in this car and I loved it. Best trans I ever owned.

I appreciate your response! I've been wanting to keep stock ecu just because it's a special car to me "street car" (that I want to be fast), gauges working, AC working, controls all working normally, etc. I have a T56 right now and can't launch worth a crap, put a two step and still can launch worth a crap, I have trouble knowing what gear to shift to to use and maintain the most boost and I've been to the track once and missed 3rd but found 1st going 70 so I'm in a rebuild right now.. I've tossed around the idea to sell the T56 and go auto but prefer keeping the crappy stock ECU. Do you think with that set up under stock ecu will dramatically improve with auto over manual? (obviously could be some user error here but without a Holley it's gunna be tough for anyone to launch with radials in my opinion)

@@nickclifforddds35 I understand wanting all the bells and whistles to work. AC is no problem to keep with the Holley, FWIW, and the stock gauges are not easy to make work, but still possible. I chose to get a digital dash with a really nice factory appearing bezel to hold it in. If you didn't know better, you'd think it came in the car. Yes, you're going to be shocked at how much faster an automatic with a full manual valve body is. With a turbo car, it feels like you doubled the HP output with just a transmission swap because the power comes in so much faster and never drops. My Freddy Brown 4R70w was one of the best things I ever did to the car. Make sure you get a good stall converter (Circle D, PTC, or another big name company) and you will never look back.

@@flyboy1294 so i chatted with freddy brown and am about to pull the trigger on that.. what converter did you go with on your 4r70? I am wanting a street (sometimes strip) car and he quoted me a "10'' full race converter lock up" but its still only a single disc.. wondering if i should go with that one or a circle d.. you have any advice on that? if chatting through fb or another way is easier let me know but i really appreciate your advice and help!! I like what you've done with your turbo 2v!

@@nickclifforddds35 I started off with a Circle D 245mm triple disc 4C stall, but started blowing through it above 750rwhp. After that I went to a Circle D 258mm triple disc in 3B stall. It worked great above 800hp, but on low boost it was tight. Car would flash to 6000rpm and just stay there for an eternity once I went WOT. A 10" converter is probably the same core as the 258mm Circle D, and Freddy Brown is another great brand. You do not need a triple disc unless you want to lockup at WOT. I only locked mine up in the 1/4 mile.

Paxton bracket. Been discontinued for a few years sadly.

fly1294 I was told that the Vortech brackets also work? Is this true? I know I have seen may people wanting to find that Paxton bracket even think about having it copied and machined?

@@2vgod460 I think the newer Paxton 1200 and 1500 series use the same brackets as the Vortech, but the older Novi 1000 and 2000s like this one used a totally different bracket system. It's hard to tell from the vids, but the blower is massive compared to the Vortechs/newer Novis. If you could find the bracket for sale you could easily have a machine shop copy it for you. It's pretty much (3) 1/2" thick aluminum plates and some spacers.

Big turbo on 4.6 2v with Holley EFI

@@flyboy1294 what about the motor

@@texasinnovativeperformance6439 Just a forged rotating assembly and ported PI heads. Nothing fancy at all

What transmission

When I locked that converter with last years combo, it started just freight training. It's always ran way faster out the back than it should've

fly1294 I see now lol. that transmission and gear setup is spot on. You using the same one this year?

@@tpalm88 No sir. Swapped everything over the winter. Totally new car now

DEJ Killer wheels

Yep

@@flyboy1294 do you have IG, I have a few questions. I just got a teksid, victor jr and 04 cobra crankshaft.

@@djherring2584 Yessir, its @orange04inky

They are from a company called Houston Performance and are called their "Hp292" cams. I'm not sure if they are in business still. They were $550 about 10 years ago. Real talk though, there are a lot better cams out there for these cars now.

Accutach's website is just accutach(dot)com. I think it's a pretty small business because they don't really have part numbers-- the box you need is just labeled "1994-2004 Mustang cruise control box." Other than that, we just used a US Shift Quick 6 controller for the 6R80 and used the stock cruise control buttons ars the shift selectors. The Quick 6 makes it pretty easy to wire up.

I have mine set up this way through the us shift controller (gen 2) didnt need an extra box

It's pretty much instant as soon as you hit the button, and much much firmer than stock shifts (although that's adjustable in the settings of the controller if you want). Definitely night and day difference over a stock S550 Mustang with a 6R80 manually selecting the gears. The only two complaints my buddy has is there is no good way to see what gear the car is in, or if it is in manual mode without looking at the shift controller screen. Would be nice if they had an LED output or something we could wire to the dash.

This was probably mid 700s. It was getting hot up top and pulling a lot of timing.