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Hi... roughly 8D or 10D > roughly 0.13 inches (close to 1/8" thick). It is important to note that the panels provide the shear strength in the shed... hence the use of glue (which some say is not recommended but typically the recommendations if for larger buildings where more expansion/contraction occurs). However, without glue, even using 8d nails, I do not think nails alone in a 3/8 thick panel (especially if placed in groove which makes it 1/4" thick) would provide the required shear strength. That is why, IMO, this style of construction (no underlying sheathing) is only suitable for small sheds and glue is a must - especially in areas of high winds, earthquakes or heavy snow loads. So in regards to using 16 gauge pins? I wouldn't, but it depends on your location and forces on the shed as noted. Good glue like PL Premium or Liquid Nails is very strong so you may be okay with 16 gauge but you'll need to make that call yourself, and if you feel it is strong enough.

Glad you like the videos... For most of the construction, bright construction screws with a coarse thread (here we use square head Robertson). Anything going into pressure treated lumber should be coated and labelled as for use in PT lumber. For toe-nailing trusses to top plate 3 1/4' 16D nails (or equal) is recommended (both sides of each truss and on both ends). If using nails for framing, anything going into PT lumber should be galvanized. General rule for framing with 2x lumber is 16D 3 1/4" common nails.

Great suggestion!

Glad to hear that!

It is a valid point. We didn't use it do to our location and with the over hang we did not feel too much rainfall would hit the wall at this height - and that caulking properly would be adequate (we also tapered the top of the 1x4 covering the joint to shed water). That said. In most cases, where you have an exposed joint like this, then yes, highly recommended if not a most do! Thanks for asking!

Good question... this depends a lot on where you are building... with a snow load I would not chance building a truss without it (keeps the truss from sinking at the peak with weight on it). If you are in a climate with no snow, you could build without it but I would recommend making the peak gusset bigger and applying it to both sides of internal trusses. That said, overall it is best to keep it, and if you opt not to use it, make sure it is safe to do so - in other words, proceed at your own risk.

Not when you are building and using prefab trusses. That is typically done when stick framing the roof/rafters.

Not on the vertical pieces as long as they are tight to the panels. Horizontal pieces the top side should be (only those that may be exposed to rain or snow). It is why all the trim was pre-painted so you don't have to cut in after - makes for a much nicer paint job when done.

Accuracy - while using a center mark may work for the majority of studs, there will be many steps that require stud placement to be precise e.g. door and window framing where rough openings need to be accurate as well as placement. Overall, it comes down to how fussy you are.

It's been a long time since we painted the shed. We used exterior paint from Behr at Home Depot. Can't remember the exact paint though.

That is a good question. Have not dealt with this before. Using shorter nails might work for the first layer, but they may be too short on the second layer and it will be difficult to get just the right length to ensure they do not poke through and still have enough holding strength - especially for the first rows which are most venerable to high winds. I have to be honest, I am not sure how professional roofers would handle this and it can't hurt to ask one or two local roofing contractors how they would do this. That said, if it was my choice, for the best appearance, I would use 3/4" material around the perimeter where it will be seen from underneath. Then strap the remainder with 1x4 strapping. I would then put 1/2" or sheathing over the entire roof. This will provide a substrate of 1 1/4" around the perimeter plus the thickness of the first layer of shingle (roughly just under 1/8" depending on the shingle). Now you can easily use the recommended 1 1/4" long nails without any concern of them penetrating through the underside. But, as noted, it can't hurt to consult a few roofers and see what they recommend. Maybe there is an adhesive that can be used in conjunction with shorter nails on the first rows that would provide the required strength to prevent blow off in high winds.

Yes, nails, properly sized are fine. In fact, on larger sheds it is recommended for shear strength - and probably required by code once you exceed a specific square footage (which is different depending on your location). On a 12 x 16 shed I would use nails for all structural parts of the shed.

Yes, toe nailed and then the addition of hurricane ties. The footage for this part of the series was corrupted and could not be redone.

Hurricane ties are used mainly for areas prone to high winds to prevent the roof from lifting off the main structure. As long as the hurricane ties are secured to lumber that is also secure with the sheathing, you should be fine. If you live in an area where high winds are not common, then it is not as important.

It really depends on how much moisture/rain you have where the shed is built. The location we built this one is fairly dry and the gravel would likely allow any moisture to dry out. However, if you are building in a wet area, or where the ground stays wet for long periods, then building on top of skids makes sense. E.g Oregon for sure in many places, New Mexico climate probably not required.

Sorry for the late reply - about 3" on average.