Don't blame ya!

I'm happy the video helped you, I've said it before but I really do need to do more videos on every day stuff and show tricks I've taught myself like this one not having to pull everything apart.

@@colto8284 YES INDEED.

I'm so happy to have helped, yea I feel as if there's alot of misinformation out there just to get in your wallet. I need to make more videos on all kinds of stuff from vehicles, guns, cattle, tractors, etc. I just don't. I feel as if I could have something of a channel if I did though haha

I would barely leave 2 bolts on the passenger side and then remove every bolt from drivers side then have the two of you lift the bed up from the driver's side and block it up in between the bed and frame, reason for leaving the passemger side bokts in a couple turns is so it doesnt slide off or attempt to and damage anything. Anyhow, that would be the best way to go about that because 2 men can't entirely pick the bed up completely but 2 can tilt it at an angle fore sure.

@@colto8284 thanks for the tip. My neighbor and I were able to lift it backwards about 2 ft and it’s resting on the wheels and a little mini fridge in the rear. Was actually not too bad at all. I didn’t realize my airbag lines were snaked through it so they are pretty stretched out at the moment but i have never used them and not even sure if they work. Just in case anyone else sees this check the airbag lines

@Javii96 that's a really good tip about the airbag lines. Hopefully the mini fridge also served the purpose of keeping that busch light cool too 🤣

I would recommend people buy new fuel line clips before starting. I also had to go buy the electrical connector because the locking tab broke. Better safe than sorry

@Javii96 hey man all these suggestions are perfect. Not everyone lives an an area where stuff doesn't fall apart.

I want to say it's a 12mm that sounds familiar but seems small but like I said that's off the top of my head.

Mine were 19mm

‘09 1500 and mine were an 18 socket

Yesir, thankyou for watching, glad it went wall for ya.

To my understanding I don't think it's the end of the world but ya know it helps haha

Thankyou sir.

No sir, you can still pull it out of the wheel side, like I said you get just enough room if you put pressure on the lower a arm and pull at the same time, you do not have to remove other objects as people state, just follow step by step and you should be good to go. Any questions just ask away and I'd be glad to help

@@colto8284 thank you so much man, my neighbor and I just did it today and other than the tie rod and the upper control arm we didn’t remove any extra bolts, your video is a lifesaver and we did fine we had to bend a 21mm cause we didn’t have a crows foot for the rear shocks on the top. But yeah great video and thank you for putting it out there.

@Antonio Aiello yesir, you are more than welcome, glad it went well foe you!

There is not, it's due to my terrible editing skills and bad phone at the time. I do apologize but I wasn't about to redo that haha

I agree, the new valve I installed has been going fine since! The water heater I replaced was actually 31 years old at the time of removal and had no service at all. It was over 3 quarter full of sediment

No here I did not as it was not necessary to do the job that needed done.

I honestly can't tell you why it's on there, but I know you need to leave it on there. If I guessed what it's for I'd say maybe some sort of protection???

@@colto8284 I am wondering if that plastic sleeve is what is causing thousands of them to fail prematurely. My new Richmond is less than a year old and the temp sensor failed already. My old AO Smith unit lasted 25 years without a hitch. I sell industrial heat sensors and none of them have a cheap plastic sleeve on them. Oh well it is installed without the sleeve and working fine now

@@paulezycom you may be on to something honestly!

I would suggest jacking the truck up allowing the suspension to extend down then take that bolt out and see if you can beat it out possibly. I feel for you living up there that far dealing with salt

@@colto8284 Thanks for getting back. I’ll give that a shot.

When I get home I'll see if the part numbers on it but I requested one of their commercial line valves and that's what I was sent, the electromagnet is the main problem in the household version, the industrial one has an updated electromagnet.

I wound make sure the part is not factory seconds. People do use factory seconds that are on a tight budget but you get what you pay for. And yes, nothing is made like it used to be. Since my 40 gallon gas Richmond hot water tank made by Rheem is still under warranty, they sent the part which is NOT a factory second by FedEx, no charge but I don’t like the way they just don’t send out a serviceman from a list to access the problem first. Rheem accesses your problem over the phone & then sends the part which will add up to more labor costs if more has to be done. Rheem only reimburses up to $150.00 in labor under warranty. Shitty warranty labor stipulations! There should be no good reason why the gas control valve should go out only after 1 year or 2. It’s supposed to last 10-15 years which is about the life of the tank itself so for that part to repeatedly go out, there’s something wrong with that picture.

Yesir anytime

Thankyou sir

Yes it will, everything will be the same except just pulling the spacer itself out, all it is basically is a rubber puck between the strut housing and the top of the coil. I hope this helps, if you have anymore questions just ask!

Seems to be the exact case, luckily they shut off the supply of fuel correctly atleast!

No problem, I need to start doing more videos on stuff, like yesterday I should've shown how to do wheel bearings in a 10-18 dodge. People like you that reply and it helps makes me wanna do more. Yeah figures that overnight stuff never is how the wording is.

I have a Richmond 40 gallon gas water tank made by Rheem. When I provided the model/serial number to the Rheem tech on the phone, she told me they will ship the part but I have to pay for the labor out of my own pocket & they will only reimburse me for up to $150.00 & I would have to apply for that later thru their online portal. I don’t know why they can’t just send a serviceman themselves to access the problem first. When I informed the tech the black dial would not advance to off, then pilot while turning counterclockwise per the instructions, she said the problem was the gas control valve. So I did receive the part by FedEx but am going to need a referral as I’m stuck as to who to hire. Maybe an HVAC serviceman is cheaper per hour than a plumber. I’m afraid they will charge more than $150.00 & I’m on a fixed income. It will still be rough paying the $150.00 out of pocket first. When I had an A. O. Smith gas water tank, they paid for everything under warranty up front & just had me pick from their list of licensed service places. Rheem only pays & sends the part & who knows if the gas valve really is the problem. And if it is, more could be wrong with it but I just don’t get why the gas valve becomes faulty after only close to 2 years. I’m a Boomer that has used gas water heaters all my life & never had this problem. Rheem’s Customer Service & their tech were friendly enough but I don’t like the way they operate with their labor stipulations. This has caused me to procrastinate as I have to be careful who I hire & do research as to how long this gas control valve job takes. It’s said it can be accomplished in less than an hour according to other KZbin videos.

@@revrotunda3206 It's not bad at all. It took me awhile, but I'm a computer nerd, not a DIY fixer guy. Literally anyone can replace that valve, it's very simple. I'm sure a pro would knock it out in 15 mins or less. Took me an hour or so, but I spent more time bubble testing the line than anything because I was worried about a gas leak once I put it all back together. Good Luck! As for the 150 bucks - I'd just call a plumber and tell him your situation. I'm sure you can get one that will promise to charge just under the 150 so you get it for free.

I hate to hear that sir, there's always a bad apple that spoils the whole bunch ain't there? Sounds like you got a hell of a plumber and business to take care of you though!

It's really not to bad as long as you have a good compressor. Let me know and I'll answer any of your questions 👍

Alright lmfao

I just use pipe dope to mae the connection. It is a compression fitting, no tape

Compression fittings seal and seat because of the flare nothing to do with the threads other than the tension the nut provides to hold the fitting tight.

Flared fitting = no tape or dope.

I hate to hear that, I figured out after work when I went to shower and bam!!! Fuckin ice cubes hahaha. It really ain't to bad to deal with unless you have a finicky gas line like I did

@@colto8284 Well my gas line was old as hell and all soldered together, so I ended up buying a flexible gas line. Was an easy fix. And even though the water heater is only 9 months old, I will give it to Rheem for sending me all the parts free and quick.

@@tnlynchmob make sure you used tape for gas with that flex line though because other tape won't work well. Good deal though!

I had tested the resistance of my thermocouples and it was fine, I checked my main gas source to guarantee I had flow, I pulled the burn pan out cleaned it and checked it, I also did a few little things to the valve like hold the pilot open and it would stay lit, the moment I let it go it slammed the valve shut.

@@colto8284 thanks for the reply. Called a service man in to verify. Called rheem and had the service guy talk to them.. parts and labor is free but had to eat the cost of the guy I called which was 90 bucks. The tank has 3 year parts and labor warranty. I installed the tank myself. That's why I called a pro to check it out.

@@richardhead3691 they made you pay for labor?! Huh, my buddy who's a plumber got payed by them. They sent me a peice of paper to right down who installed it and that they were a certified plumber. Obviously I done it but it got him paid.

@@richardhead3691 My warranty on a 40 gallon Richmond gas hot water tank made by Rheem is 6 years but they claimed they only pay for all parts & tank but only up to $150.00 in labor fees. This can pose a financial problem. When I had an A. O. Smith hot water tank, they took care of everything including picking a service place from their list without any up front costs whatsoever. I’ll be checking the warranties the next time I buy a hot water tank as I don’t like their labor stipulations at all.

Thankyou sir, yea gotta make sure that stuff stays clean for sure.

broooos literally same w me. i installed the heater 1 year ago feb.

Same thing happened here . 1 year 1 month. Rheem sent me new control valve. Seems like to me this a reoccurring issue