@@sansenbragat6312 I'm not sure about that one. I've disassembled several Pittsburgh of various sizes and they all seem to be pretty close to the same.

I dropped a plumb bob from the top down to form the center line of my lift. The platform is centered on this line and the lift motor spool is centered on this line. With the platform at the bottom make sure the cable end with the hook is connected to the hole in the lift motor and is dropped down to the platform staying aligned with the vertical line you marked. Don't worry about the side that loops out of the pulley that goes to the lift motor spool. Make sure the platform stops short of the floor and keeps tension on the cable (mine is about two inches off the floor). The low limit switch takes care of that for me. On Amazon search for an ME-1808 limit switch... They come in a 2 pack. The switch is wired normally open and closes when the limit is reached. Wire it to the hi terminals on the controller. As an initial setup item you will want to unspool the entire lift motor and then guide it back on the spool tightly with no gaps between coils. Then oil the crap out of it with a good cable and chain lube (very important). The cable rubs against itself constantly and climbs up at least once on its trip up and down. The lubrication helps with abrasion wear and makes the climb transition less "abrupt". Once everything is dialed in maintenance of the cable becomes the biggest task. Three or four times a year you need to use something like WD-40 (it has lot of solvent in it) to clean the old oil and junk off the cable. Depending on your usage you'll need to oil the cable and trolleys often. I oil mine once a week and clean it about every month.

Did you fix your washer? I have the same problem with mine.

@@Mark_from_LA No, I changed everything & it would still start for free. I even spoke with whirlpool, and they admitted that the see this all the time. But did not offer a solution. Hopefully, if enough of us complain, there will be a recall or full class action lawsuit against this machine.

@@Daner949 Thanks for your answer. You're money saver 😂

Just ran into this today, starts without coins. I also cannot get hot water but I can’t enter diagnostics mode to check the inlet valves. Dumb!

@@jamiestevens9891 You’re not alone. I’ve seen it multiple time since posting my last comment. It’s a reoccurring theme with these machines.

Remove the screws around each burner then look down inside the slotted vents at the back of the top. There are 5 or 6 screws straight down inside those slots.

Thank yiu

Yeah. Took 5 mins. Eventually found a video. There are about 6 Philip screws on the back. Shine a light and you will see them

@@iambik Thank you so much!

The screws around the burners have to be removed also. When reinstalling the burner screws add a little never siege compound to the screw threads. After a few years these screws will snap off when you try to remove them.

I need to replace Washer Door Lock W10482836

It is not normal for the lid lock light to not come on... Is the lid locking?

@@tonyturner9146 It locks when it's ran normally, but after rewatching the video I don't think it's locking at all when it's in service mode.

If it won't lock in service mode then it most likely won't in normal mode. If the lid is not locked it will not spin and should set an error code. On page 4 of the tech sheet you will see instructions to enter Manual Overview Test Mode. This mode allows you to run individual tests on components. Enter Manual mode and follow the instructions on page 9. Everything you need to diagnose the issue is in the tech sheet (mini manual as some call it).

@@tonyturner9146 I'm going to retry it when I'm back after vacation. Thanks for the help and video.

Tony ran it through diagnostics nothing shows up.when it starts fills up for 30 seconds.stop moves to wash/soak cycle but doesn't fill and starts to agitate with no water. If I do another load fills with water and works fine.Frustrated can you help me out😢

On my tablet I'm just reading a PDF version of the "tech sheet". Most of those machines will have a tech sheet attached to the back of the front panel of the machine. If you can put it in diagnostics and run the test then the machine is probably not at fault. There is a switch in the coin mechanism that enables the controls of the machine. That switch may be the issue. Or the coin is not mashing the switch when the coin slide goes in.

To recalibrate you do the process he did to go into diagnostic mode and go the what would be the number four or rinse, then press start. It will go trough the recalibration process.

My lift is in my shop so I couldn't do it outside.

There is a reversing valve that reverses the refrigerant flow to heat the ice mold during harvest. It could be bad. The system will not go into harvest until the ice mold reaches the thermostat set temperature. Verify each phase of the ice making process to get an idea where it actually stops. You can download the service manual from Scotsman which explains each step in the process. Ensure each step completes normally. I've never had a reversing valve bad on a Scotsman so I'd look really hard at the thermostat settings and timer operation.

If it's loud when it spins then the gear case has a bad bearing and will have to be replaced... The bearings are not replaceable.

@@tonyturner9146 Maybe you replaced gear case on your washer

Hi Peter. The server that file was on was taken down and I no longer have access to the file. I may have the PDF on one of my old laptop computers. I'll dig them out when I get a minute and try to locate it. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Did you ever forget how to remove the top?

I have 2 washers at my lodge doing the same thing. I can't find anything online about it. Did you figure it out?

The fix is to run a new dryer vent. Water is seeping into the underground pipe. What we've found at other houses in this neighborhood is that the contractor that built the house didn't glue the underground pipe. No easy fix other than to relocate the dryer to an outside wall. A leaf blower doesn't work well with water.

That's a tricky question. The short answer is yes, on some dryers. The dryers in this laundry center were standard coin-op with no diagnostics. But when you get into the Cabrio/Bravos Duet world or Samsung and LG world's most of those dryers have some form of diagnostics built in... But that's another video lol.

Good to know! I have the same model where the circulator pump went bad. Any tips on where to get a used pump affordably?

Hey Michael, I am a new tech and have DCE35 and complaint is that its making ice slowly and not fast enough. So based on what you are saying make sense now because I cleaned the condenser coil and everything else, did descaling etc. Nothing doing same slow ice making . However I have found 3 timers there ( right knob of black knob and 2 hidden , one is metal and one is plastic ( 120/170/210/250/300 can you please help me to fond out what it is ? Metal that is hidden If I am not mistaken is the one that is responsible for bid filling Please help to understand them Thanks

@@starobinful did u mean dc 33? The main black know is for bin level, the hidden one w screwdriver slot is for ice thickness. The old models had a metal mechanical control for ice thickness, the newer models have relay board with screwdriver slot on board for ice thickness adjustments. The main black knob is same old and new models. The main problem with these machines after 7 to 10 years is the evaporator copper lines come unsoldered from the cube plate, u have to take off the cabinet to check that, but once cabinet is off, u will be able to easily see if the blinds are loose or not, there is no way I've found to repair, I've tried tie wire, epoxy, and even soldering them, but soldering them will melt the plastic cube tray, epoxy and tie wire, and even zip straps will help but only a bandaid If the refrigeration lines are not tight against the cube patterns, it will do exactly what u are describing, very slow cycle. Like I said, once cycle times get to 40 mins, it's time for new evaporator or whole new machine. I have good used evaporator depending on your location, I'd sell it if that is what you find is the problem

Thanks. I have meant that underneath the kickplate there are two more controls. One is pure metal for ice thickness. And then I have seen square plastic module with screwdriver slot to turn to 4 positions. So I am not sure what it is Also regarding evaporator, would I need to repair it as I would do on any other sealed system ?

@@starobinful the square plastic module version takes the place of the older mechanical timer with the cam on it. The timer has screw slot, and when adjustment setting meets the desired cold temp, timer initiates I think it's 6 minutes after temp has been met it goes into defrost to drop cubes. As far as repair of broken evaporator, yes, once u install new evaporator, and filter drive, pull vacuum and recharge.

Water in the reservoir should not continue to circulate through the spray nozzles with the unit off. The drain pump is always active (available to run if needed) as long as the unit is connected to power. Here is a copy of the manual so you can verify operations DCE33 User's Manual - | Scotsman Ice Systems www.scotsman-ice.com/service/User%20Manuals/17335401.pdf

@@tonyturner9146 thanks for your info. I was able to resolve the circuitry issue I’d created while installing the drain pump with your help!

@@bjlled glad I could help

Update, I've been working on this off and on in sub-freezing weather and finally got it done in less than half hour with your advice! Complete lifesaver! Can't thank you enough.

Make sure the teeth are meshing correctly. You may have to hand turn the engine a Tiny little bit one way or the other for the Bendix to engage correctly.

I like this washer. It's pretty reliable and easy to work on. I guess it's about as good as any. The ones in the video are at an apartment complex and we do very little to them.