Exterior wood and coated with polyurethane

It’s a great idea. I’ll add it to the list. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Best of luck with your split!

All hives are different and you’ll have to inspect them all before harvesting. That said, I aim to harvest at least 10+ frames of honey from 2nd year hives. I put on a queen excluder after splits and after harvesting I remove the excluder. My 1st year hives, I let them build up and i’ll take everything from the 3rd box if the hive has one. Most importantly, I monitor for mites, and honey stores going into the winter. I want them to bee healthy and full of resources so I can split and multiply the following year. Also, if you have frames with drawn out comb you could possibly harvest in July or August from first year hives as long as you replace those frames immediately giving the bees time to fill them out with sugar syrup you feed them.

@@bobbysbeez Great. That makes sense. Thanks for the response! I think I'm going to take it slow and leave them as much resources as I can headed into this first winter.

@@nategemelli9414Best of luck over wintering!

I harvest after the winter, I harvest in the summer, again in the fall. Uploading a video tomorrow at 7 AM -shares vent boxes and removing excluder’s for winter prep…

Not all hives are ready at the same time

I have been told that too. But the more I read about it, the more I believe that's a myth. A queen will lay an egg and the egg will be attached to the side of the cell wall. The fat part of the egg is down, which is the part that turns into the head. Looking down into the cell the thin diameter is the only part visible which is only 0.4 of a millimeter wide

All my hives will have two deeps going into winter. I’ll harvest honey by August and put the frames with drawn out comb back into the hives. I’ll start feeding so they can pack out all their frames before the cold temps set in. I start feeding sugar pattie’s as early as late February but candy boards are a Terrific method too.

Your very welcome!

you’re very welcome!

you’re very welcome!

Michigan. thanks for watching!

I haven’t noticed. Have you tried using a rapid feeder so the bees can build up faster? This feeder is my favorite: amzn.to/4eAZMtG

Michigan thanks for asking!

2:46 you can take your fingers and zoom into see closer. Cut around the cell using a razor or tool and remove it and stick the cell on a frame and add some bees.

Let me know if you have any other questions -thanks!

thanks for watching!

thanks for watching!

Swarms are amazing. Great video capturing the sounds and visual of a mass of bees.

Nice catch. You might try misting the swarm with sugar water. It stops the flying and the bees stay in the box better. Just how I do it.

when the bees are swarming they don’t have a hive to defend. In my experience they’ll only sting you if they think their life is threatened. I try to work slowly and carefully.

It makes it easier to spot her

Thanks so much for watching. I absolutely love beekeeping! Thanks for commenting, it means a lot!

Once the Bottom box has 7-8 frames filled add another box

No I dont distance them I just make sure the brood has lots of nurse bees covering the frames

@@bobbysbeez okay thank you so much

Some are made of 3/4” plywood flooring and some are just old langstroth 10-frame’s

You may enjoy this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXrah32jZt6KhpIfeature=shared

It was a doozy!

Thank you for watching!

thanks for sharing. I use it every year and catch around 10-12 swarms. I recommend it

@@bobbysbeez i usually catch 20 or more swarms. I get tired of catching them and pull up my boxes.

amzn.to/4bsFlwP Thanks for asking.

Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it!

Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment. I certainly appreciate the feed back.

Are you referring to Apivar or actual vapor rub? thanks!

@@bobbysbeez: Actual Vapor Rub , the one used by humans , to put in a cardboard in the bottom of the hive to reduce/prevent bee-mites .

thanks so much for watching!!!

Hi from Texas. Good show.

@@StonewallJackson-n8w hello from Louisiana

you make sure there’s fresh eggs, nursing bees, pollen and honey and splitting big means there’s lots of bees to help with clean cells go back 7 to 10 days later and split using the queen cells there’s more splitting videos on our channels playlist titled splitting kzbin.info/aero/PLShE0-vHXKQFNWq_0DBL0A2j3teCJpohm&si=1LbFuwOMauESPw5X

thanks so much for taking the time to watch and leave your comment!

thanks for watching!

You’re right I misspoke bees don’t hatch they’re not chickens

sure would I just don’t know how long it would hold up. It would definitely last longer if you sealed with polyurethane or at least painted them. I set my hives on 4x4’s to keep them off the ground

you might enjoy this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIK2dWuXrKmdia8feature=shared

Thanks for watching!

Absolutely, that can work but it’s best to gently heat the crystallized honey and leaving it in the sun exposed to high heat for long periods could potentially degrade the quality.

That’s what I get for neglecting to install my mouse guards. -thanks for watching!

You’re very welcome, Thanks for watching!

yes it does, pasteurizing allows for longer shelf life and a smoother look but most of the health benefits are eliminated due to the high heating.

@@bobbysbeez doesn't honey lasts for hundreds of years ? As found in pyramids. How much more shelf life do one needs if it's already able to be good, without heating, for hundreds of years.

Nice! We started with Italians but now they’re kinda like italian/michigan feral mutts. best of luck!

best of luck with you apiary!

Thank you! I hope your hives are also alive and doing well. Best of luck!

best of luck with your splits!

This video is a couple years old. It’s hard to say, but I assume the queen thrived in one box and the workers used a fresh egg and made a new queen in the second box. We have more splitting videos if you’re interested kzbin.info/aero/PLShE0-vHXKQFNWq_0DBL0A2j3teCJpohm&feature=shared

You’re correct. They are supersedure cells, which are found in the middle of the frames which are often not used unless they’re needed, but when you do a walk away split, you will find that they will often make one or two supersedure cells next to the original, as well as several at the bottom of the frame too. They’re simply picking all the good eggs and making as many queen cells as they possibly can, which is beneficial because now we can make lots of splits.

Thanks for asking. I will only take honey from hives that don’t need it. They need two boxes in Michigan to consistently over winter. A third box is a surplus of honey that I can remove. When it comes to the two boxes that are remaining, if a hive is still alive, I’d give the colony the opportunity to eat the honey, and use it to overwinter. Only when the hive dies before spring will I remove the honey from that die out.

thanks for watching!

That means a lot. Thanks for sharing!

I'm so glad you liked it. Best of luck with your castle build - I think I'll make a video building one. Thanks for commenting.

Good question. Nothings for sure but I've seen success with smoking heavily and setting a queenless hive on top. I feel confident they'll become a strong hive. The queenless hive smells the fresh brood and in most cases quickly accepts the queen with minimal fighting. Now if the hive was queen right and I just pinched the queen( in the fall for example) that hive has brood and the queens pheromone will still be present for a short while. I wouldn't feel confident about adding a box of bees or a colony rather to another box without paper.

Thanks.

Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment.