@@steveshadowphoto9346 Hi Steve! Thanks for checking out the video! Ahhh good eye! The shop that I bought the glass from put the tape on the edges so I wouldn’t cut my fingers 😆 BUT,it may help with Newton rings. (I do have to use a piece of ANR glass when scanning 35mm or the NR’s are TERRIBLE!) Sounds like you’ve got a good system worked out with your V600 - do you have any issues with Newton rings with that setup?

@@speg._3379 That’s a great question - I never thought to try that! 😆 I don’t see why separating the two wouldn’t work! I’ll have to try that in the future and see what happens - that’ll make for a good video! Thanks so much for watching and for the awesome question! 😎👍🏻

Thank so much Zhan! I appreciate you checking out the video and for your positive feedback! 😎👍🏻

@@fistfulloflenses You’re welcome! Thanks for checking out the video and for the positive feedback! 😎👍🏻

@@VideoInformation Thanks so much for watching! 😎👍🏻

@@HopefulForever-ln5xm You’re correct - using prebath is optional. In my experience, developing chemicals last longer and remjet comes off easier when prebath is used. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏻

Right?!?!? 🤩 My fav is the blue GT3! 😁 Thanks for checking out the vid Gia! 😎👍🏻

Hi! I use aluminum wine bladders to store developing chems. All you have to do is squish out the air out of them - your chems will last for months! 😀 Happy developing! Here's the Amazon link to the bladders: shorturl.at/853ou

@@TheLucaaw You’re welcome Luca, I appreciate your feedback! 😀 Developing ECN2 is an upcoming video! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏻

@@aaronalexander6924 Hi Aaron! 😀 Yes, you’ll need to place your film and loader inside a dark bag > put the film in the loader > close the door or back of the loader > then the bulk loader can be brought out into the light. Thanks for checking out the video! If other questions come up, let me know! Have fun bulk loading! 😎👍🏻

Thanks so much Shawn - I’m glad you like the videos! 😀 I’m looking forward to your content as well! 😎👍🏻

You’re welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video! 😎👍🏻

Brutal!!! 😆😆😆

Your mom shot gold too! (Or maybe Ultra Max! 🤣🤣🤣)

Yeah buddy!!! Thanks for being part of the video my dude! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

No way?!?! How did I not know this?!?! 👀👀👀 I need details!!! 😆😆😆

Ahhh yes!!! I’m glad you caught that! I appreciate the feedback! Thank you! 😎👍🏻

Thanks for letting me know Olle! Developing ECN2 will be an upcoming video! 😎👍🏻

Hi Jan! Thanks for your question! You can develop in either ECN2 or C41 after removing the remjet - which ever you prefer. You're absolutely correct! With Vision 3 the remjet layer protects the film from halation. On occasion you may see minor halation around extremely bright sources of light. Happy developing!

Hi Thomas! I had a similar experience out of the gate with Vision 3. After experimenting a little I found using a quality lens, and tripod (to ensure correct focus) while shooting and then really dialing in my scanning setup (using a quality macro lens and nailing focus) made a big difference. (Those critical factors are the same for any type of film) Now that the setup is dialed in, I don’t really shoot anything other than Vision 3. It’s cheap, has great latitude and color, and it converts to B&W well. Definitely give it another shot! 50D is a great film! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

@@1331photoI mainly focus on black and white since it is so cheap. I use a Zeiss Otus 55mm 1.4 on both black and white and vision3 50d. I scan with a plustek 8100 not the best scanner but not the worst. The quality is ok but I guess I was expecting more.

Hi Chris! You’re exactly right - remjet removal happens after you shoot the roll. If you’ve got any other questions let me know! Thanks for reaching out & happy shooting! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

Hi Craig! Thank you VERY much! To help the channel grow, I wanted to make high quality tutorials to help people learn concepts I struggled with when I started out with film. Growth on YT is generally slow when starting out, but that’s ok! It’s teaching me how to make even better videos! I really appreciate your comment! It lets me know the videos are helpful - that’s the main goal! Thanks so much for your support! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

You’re right on 100%! It’s not easy, but we learn more from our mistakes than our accomplishments! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Devin and I had a blast shooting it - we were actually talking last night about getting out to shoot another one! Again, I really appreciate you checking out the channel, enjoying the videos and leaving positive feedback! It’s a wonderful feeling! Thanks Richard! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

Hi Richard! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! I appreciate the positive feedback - we’ve gotta have fun while we’re working right? 😉 Thanks for checking out and subbing to the channel! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

Yes, you’re absolutely right! 😎👍🏻 Kodak used to make a C41 black and white film called “BW400CN” and Ilford has XP2 Super! They’re both great films! I have a video about cross proocessing XP2 Super in Xtol: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmnRZJ9phb2Yqbssi=Yx_z2tu0MGFdKEug

You’re welcome Ryan! Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and for your comment! 😎👍🏻

BAM!!! RIGHT ON THE MONEY TYLAR!!! 🤩🤩🤩 Thanks for putting up with the editing videos AND for nerding out in Photoshop with me! You’ll be a pro before you know it! 😎😎😎

You’re right on the money! 😎👍🏻 This is the prebath ECN2 film is rinsed in to remove the carbon backing before developing. And yes, ECN2 is movie film, and a different process than E-6 😎👍🏻 I pour it into the tank first before any water, gently agitate for 30 seconds, pour back into the container and rinse the film until the water comes out clear. I kept this prebath in a container that wasn’t air tight, and it lasted all of 2023. I used on about 25ish rolls. I mixed up a fresh batch in January for 2024. I envy your machine processing - developing by hand is doable, but very time consuming! (If you let too many rolls get backed up! 😂) Thanks for watching the video and for leaving a comment! 😎👍🏻

@@1331photo Is the action of agitating the tank enough to remove the remjet? Your video and others I have seen show someone using their fingers to rub off the loosened remjet, and I'm not sure how that would happen with undeveloped film unless I had an entire darkroom to work in.

@campyonlyguy Hi! Thanks for asking your question! Yes, you’re correct. Agitation will remove most of the remjet. After the film has been rinsed in prebath, it comes off the film easily - even using your fingers. Here’s my remjet removal workflow: Rinse film in prebath for 30 seconds. Recover prebath, and fill tank with fresh water. Shake vigorously for 60 seconds. Rinse and repeat until water comes out of the tank clear. (Usually four 60 second rinses) Develop film (developer, bleach, fixer) After developing cycle is complete, rinse film until water from tank runs clear. Pull reel from tank and hang the film. Wet a Kim Wipe, place it between your fingers, and gently wipe both sides of the film. Repeat this step until the wipes no longer turn black (generally 4 Kim Wipes) At this point you can use Photoflow or stabilizer. Hang to dry!

@campyonlyguy Just a quick follow up: I made a video showing how to remove remjet - if you want to, check it out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nn-kiouijbd9f9E Thank you!

Thank you! The wine bladders have been a LIFESAVER for storing chemistry at home! I appreciate the positive feedback! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

Hi Tylar!!! 🤩 Thanks so much! I’m glad the walk through is helping make Photoshop a little easier! There’s more editing walkthroughs on the back burner! If you’ve got Photoshop questions let me know! I’d love to help out! 😎👍🏻

Thank you for sharing your experience with XP2 and other B&W developers as well as the tip to try adding a bit more exposure! I’ll give it a try! 😎👍🏻 The fine grain gets me every time - it really smoothes out when cross processing. I prefer the smoothness over the grit C41 tends to have. I shot an identical roll to the one in this video that I developed in ECN2 - the images turned out really nice. Very smooth grain and great tonal range! One of these days I’ll get that video out!

Hi! Thanks for reaching out! I haven’t done any darkroom printing, so I don’t know how much fixer you’ll need for photo paper. Keep researching and you’ll find the answer! 😎👍🏻

It definitely felt that way! One minute I was taking pictures of the car - the next minute the driver asked if I wanted to go for a ride! I’m thankful for the experience! (And that we didn’t get a ticket! 😆😆😆)

You’re welcome Alan! Glad it helped you out! After a few rolls you’ll find that remjet is quite easy to remove! Just a rinse in prebath before developing and then a wipe down before your final rinse and you’ll be remjet free! Easy peasy! Thanks for checking out the video! 😎👍🏻

​@@1331photo > Just a rinse in prebath before developing and then a wipe down before your final rinse and you’ll be remjet free! Easy peasy! Does that mean I don't have to wipe it before developing, or I still rinse and remove the remjet before developing like shown in the video?

@@alanmok8783Your workflow will look like this: Load your film onto a reel and place inside the dev tank inside a dark bag. Prebath: Pour into tank for 30 seconds > Rinse until water runs clear (fill tank with water, shake 30 seconds, dump water, repeat until rinse water is clear) Developer > Stop Bath > Rinse> Bleach > Rinse > Fix > Rinse > Wipe Film > Respool > Stabilizer After the fixer rinse, you can pull the film off the reel and wipe the film. I recommend wetting the wipe first, this’ll keep the film wet and keep the wipe from sticking to the film. I wipe the film gently until no more remjet residue appears on the wipe. I do two additional wipes just to make sure I got it all. At this point you can carefully respool the film and dip in the stabilizer bath. (I choose not to do this {I’m not sure how this’ll affect long term negative storage, so if you choose not to use stabilizer, do so at your own risk!}) Hopefully this helps! If you have any other questions let me know! 😎👍🏻

@@alanmok8783 Also: if you check out the end of my “How to Develop C41” video, you can see how I wipe the film. I use the same process for wiping off residual remjet. 😎👍🏻

​@@1331photo Thanks for your detailed explanation!! I have never done either ECN development or C41 development yet but I intend to get into them. Thanks for the useful information and videos! 😊👍

Hey Michael! No worries - it won’t hurt your chemistry! Warming the water before mixing the chems does two minor things: One: It helps the powder dissolve a little faster while mixing. Two: it gets the chems to developing temperature - this allows you to develop right after mixing. Have fun developing your film! Let me know how your negs turn out! 😎👍🏻

thanks for the reply! @@1331photo One more question, if you don't mind. The cinestill powder kit I purchased doesn't come with a stabilitize/rinse. Is that completely necessary? Is the only issue water spots if I don't do that step? thanks!

@@michaelnewmanphotography You’re welcome! If you’re using fresh film or “modern” film (produced after 2010 or so) you won’t need a stabilizer, it’s part of the film already and it’ll be released during development 😎👍🏻 As far as water spots, you can use Photo Flo, or rinse in distilled water. I go the distilled water route, but either way works! I have a video walking through how I develop at home, and I walk through how I dry my negs to keep them spot free. I’ll link it below.

@@michaelnewmanphotography The part about spot free negs starts @4:17. Here’s the link: Develop C41 Film at Home With Cinestill CS41 kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6LCZniYar96nMU

Faire chauffer l'eau pour une meilleure dissolution des produits,et avoir un bon rendu de négatifs. Ne jamais oublier que si vous faites dissoudre le produit à froid, vous serez vraiment très gris, et chaque produit que compose le révélateur,à son rôle à jouer dans le développement. Si vous continuez, faites les tirages sur papier du ou extra dur pour avoir un peu de contraste, mais vraiment très peu.

Hi! 😀 Are you needing to know how much fixer you’ll need to make gallon worth? Or are you wondering if you can mix a smaller batch of fixer and store it in a gallon bottle?

@@1331photo yes how much would i need to make a gallon

@@fwa3 To find out how much fixer and water needed we’ll divide the total volume (in milliliters) by the total number of “parts” (the water and fixer). First, we need to know how many milliliters are in a gallon: there’s 3,785. That number is our total volume. Ilford lets us know we need to mix 1 part concentrate to 4 parts water. We add the “parts” together: 1+4= 5 Now, we divide the total volume (3,785) by the total parts (5) 3,785 / 5 = 757 This answer gives us the total amount of concentrate needed for a gallon (757ml) To find out how much water is needed, subtract the amount of concentrate (757ml) from the total volume (3785ml) 3785 - 757 = 3,028 So, to mix a gallon of fixer at a 1:4 ratio, you’ll need 3,028ml of water and 757ml of concentrate 😎👍🏻

@@1331photothank you a lot 👍🏽

@@blaka1_102 You’re welcome! 😎👍🏻

Hey! 😃 Thank you so much for your wonderful compliment! I watched one of your videos - you’re definitely capable of making content! For getting started in film photography: find an inexpensive camera, and just shoot. You’ll learn so much this way! It sounds like you’ve got experience with digital, most of what you already know will be compatible with film. Thanks again for your kind words! Follow your passions - you’ll find lots of fulfillment! 😎👍🏻

I really appreciate you supporting the channel Joseph! Thank you SO much for your two comments - it means more than you know! Keep on shooting! 😎👍🏻 📸📸📸

Thanks for checking out the video Joseph! I’m glad you liked it! 😎🤘🏻🤘🏻

You're a brave man Darren! 😆In all seriousness, reviewing 500 photos would be a great learning experience! The amount of improvement you'd see would be very enlightening! Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment! I really appreciate it! 😎👍

I appreciate you checking out the video and leaving positive feedback! Thank you very much!