Planes under 250 grammes won’t fly in hardly any wind which is mainly useless most days

The hobby is slowed down a lot because of the rules! At cost today don't help ! We need 1500 g ,600 ft. For a grown mans toy for hobby use only ! Class g air space at least! O , in a big field, l speak for airplanes and drones in eyesight, now if you want to make money, get a license !

easy is good and it will choke/richen the mix. my problem was getting fuel from the fuel tank later in the run. so It has merit.

I still got my baby bee with it's throttle ring. I got it new on a Plastic P-40 Warhawk line control in the late 60's. The plastic control handle had a slide control for your index finger and a third line allowed take offs and landings when a friend wasn't availible. The engine throttle control was perfectly acceptable because anything less than full throttle meant you were landing as those Cox airplanes were almost too heavy to fly! I still think it would make a great rc engine in a balsa or foam model.

been looking far and wide for your videos and almost thought you deleted them. I love these videos don't ever delete them!!

I had many .049 engines in the 1970s and the exhaust restricter is the best way I found to alter the speed.

Do you have plans available for that slow flyer 2.5 version? I really like the looks of that plane.

Build what you want, Fly what you want….. Don’t ask the crown for permission.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I'm now eyeing up my old 049s. My understanding is that an inlet throttle needs to restrict the airflow upstream and downstream of the needle valve to maintain the same fuel air mixture. The engine seems smoother with the exhaust throttle.

The best fix for the throttle body and exhaust rings and Tarno carbs low rpm woe's, is 35% Nitro 15-18% oil. Extra nitro content will keep the glow plug lit at low rpms, without the methanol dowsing the coil once it sets at low rpm for a bit. A tick less oil did allow that to happen easier and the motor lived just fine. The rings and bodys are just airflow shunts which cause the micromotors to go extra rich. Extra nitro content carries extra oxygen molecules, by it's own self. THE next best low speed throttle control I seen for the Cox motors was the OEM Cox/Maples throttle body for the 1/12 GTP Nissan R/C onroad. Those Maples throttles, when set right even outshined the Tarno adjustable lowspeed needle carbs, for the flight .049's. The caveat emptor, was that the Maples would goop up pretty quick and needed attention often. You can usually find Boat fuel or Heli fuel that is 35/10. It's what I use. You could also use 30/10. Grab some Sig or Klotz or Novarossi Castor and bump the oil in the jug to at least 15%, BEFORE you take ANY out of the Gallon jug.

There are better ways to do this, those poor hxt servos don't live forever. It is extra stress on gear and motor, and the grease will move around and maybe even change viscosity. Many transmitters, like the dx8 used here, even has a setting where you can set a max speed and mimic this effect for wheel and flaps. Use that instead if you forgot to buy one of the inexpensive pre-made flap servos with reduced speed.

I had a few of these little marvels of engineering, engines, both for a car, or airplane. How something that small, could actually run!!🤯😳

Seems to be happier, around 7,000 rpms @ idle! Pretty amazing that it's able to idle @ 4,000-5,500 rpms 😮😮!

That’s a choke.

Excellent vid and technique. Old timer tank uses balloons and you collapse them with suction to get the air out. Atmospheric pressure is working in your design and other bladder tank designs. The trick is getting the air out of the bag. You can also perforate the pick up tube in the bag to improve flow and pull the air out better before fill. Nothing extra in the bag. I actually bought party IV bags to make a tank to move it back to the CG. I like your method better since you can tailor a shape to fit with outstanding accuracy.

Great video, explains a lot

I can suggest you 'pica sim' as a free simulator... It has teached me the basics of flying 3d. I would love to see a video dedicated to that plane btw :D

Where can a source a set of rubber bands that were on the blue winged plane.

This is just a choke, closing the Venturi off in that manner draws more fuel into the engine making it run very rich. An exhaust throttle sleeve would give better results

Love it! Many thanks

Sir I want this flight one'

lol i say FTP make and fly whatever you want and if they want to try and enforce it fuck em. They can shoot me I'm just having fun. Better ban baseballs footballs frisbees kites and skateboards if youre gonna try messing with me. Smoked weed before it was legal so nah nobodys stopping me flying my toy plane.

Yo tambien ago aviones sub 250g y te recomiendo que uses motores pequenos 1106 4000kw con baterias 1s y nano ESC de 1g . Quero hacer un avion sub 250g long range con li-ion 18650 , creo que seria interesante

Mufflers, silencers, tuned pipes and oil deflectors. How to make a Cox engine quiet.

I converted my 28” span rubber-powered Kawasaki Tony to electric r/c. It weighed 31g (without a prop or rubber motor) before conversion, and 62g afterwards. The 300 mah 2s battery weighs 16g giving a flying weight of 88g. The result has been a spectacular success. I fly it slowly and scale, and flights last 15 minutes - or longer if there’s any lift. It can only be flown in calm conditions, despite that, I’ve logged over 11 hours in a month. The rx/esc is a Crossover unit bought in a combo set-up from Oversky. Total weight of the Rx/esc, motor, mount, prop and prop saver is 11g. As soon as I get some decent flight footage I will finish the video I am making on this project. I also converted a 28” Wildcat. This one flies fine but not as well as the Tony. The drag if the wide radial-engined nose is the culprit. So, build them as light and sleek as possible.

I recall playing with the exhaust restriction ring on a(n) .049 back in the 70s. I could get it to run very-very slowly and sip fuel (for non airplane purposes) by simply adjusting the needle valve while restricting the exhaust. If I remember correctly, making the mixture richer made it run slower. The ring assembly I had fit very tightly on the cylinder and would shut off the engine when fully closed. IE it was full on to full off. I had an extra channel on my MRC and could manage the mixture change with the remote. The mixture lever fit over the needle valve knob after adjustment. (used it on a model pontoon air boat). I still play with the .049s and newer engines - cox engines are still my favourites. Nice discussion, I wasn't even aware of the air intake throttle back then, not sure when it was made available. I would bet that using the needle valve adjustment method you could extend the range of the RPM management with that throttle as well.

There are smaller tanks available than the 3 oz tank you replaced with the bag

I wonder how low it could idle if you kept power to the glow plug?

The tarno carb was the best option.

Pulled mine out of s box yesterday. Last time it ran was 1994. Surprised it still operates. Messing with the mixture screw it got low enough to loop sounding like a low rpm radial. Didn't last long but sounded cool. Can't remember if I had left the 2 d cell batteries attached at the time

But thats an 051, the red throttle body is the giveaway, the 049 had a black body. In the 60's I had a lot of these engine up to the .015 Tee Dee special. , open power free-flight

Overall the exhaust restrictor is the better option... mostly for better operations. The drop from full power to even 3/4 is well below landing speed. If you need ... more range? both are required. The problem for 049 in R/c is a reliable tank pressure system. The carb is more of a spray n pray than a metering system.

Thanks for making this video. It gives a great high-level overview of the pros and cons of sub-250g RC planes vs heavier ones.

This is awesome !!

A flyer since 1976, I can say This rule is so fricking humiliating

this is gold thank you!

Thank you, these are some very good ideas!

Liear servos can shave many grams off a build, ive soldered normal servo plugs to them and they work well when you don't need a mile of travel

Haha first reaction: check around if anybody saw the crash 😂 I hope for quick recobery, great looking plane it was! 😊

When it quits, it's quitting rich, that is why it takes a long time to start again. Very nice low idle acheived with both. Perhaps setting up some mixing you could get those two servos working in a model very well and reliably.

Would be awesome if the weight limit was at 454 grams then weight wouldn't be a problem in trying to make something that is still close to 250 grams but is a few grams over so you wouldn't have to register just as long if pass the FAA knowledge test. The one problem is with 250 gram weight is weather affects aircraft more and finding really good components parts to have good performance in windy condition is expensive, other thing is flight locations can be restricting due to space need to fly aka at park stay away from baseball field, buildings, kids play area, parking lot, etc. even if flying above recommended FAA height don't want trouble if accident happens.

You may be able to get a good, lightweight fuel line connection by wrapping the plastic with elastic fly-tying thread, which is 0.2mm but has a good amount of strength and stretch. Many wraps will put a very tight, but conformal grip. If you need more sealing power, one or more O-rings on the tube under the plastic, and then overwrapped with the elastic thread would probably be overkill. If you use one of the fly-tying spinner handle things, it's actually kinda fun to wrap things in thread. It's almost like they enjoy making fake bugs for some reason.

So who's going to be the RC plane police ? I've been driving around for two year with out dated plates and never got stopped, of course I have them in my glove box I just forget to put them on...so I'm not to afraid of the RC police these days. Although I'll try real had to comply, but at 70 it's hard to get things right. Thank god there no bail jail, because I spent all my fixed income on RC planes...

Sealed lead-acid batteries (as used for motorcycles) are probably the most economical "power banks" if you cannot just hook jumper leads to your vehicle battery. They also have the advantage that they prefer to be left sit at full charge. Also a question. I've never tried it but do you know what the maximum voltage is that can be applied to the first cell input of those little battery alarms?

A clear concrete floor (or large ceramic plate) are the ideal Charge/Discharge working surfaces. Those little Battery Alarms/LiPo Testers may not be laboratory grade but, for general use, they are the best thing since sliced bread. And you can get a handful for peanuts.

Why exactly do you try make planes below 250 grams?

some information certain 'rules' should be followed when designing a tiny aircraft. they include: to the extent that it is practical, an aileron (control surface) should have the shape of a Parallelogram.! an aileron Should extend TO the wingtip. but not to the fuselage. said another way, the use of full strip ailerons is not recommended --- on anything that is not a cropduster. d

Ouch! All part of the game. The tail feathers seemed to twist too. Did you see that?

the cops stopped me flying in the park last night and got out their weigh scale. I only just bailed out of county lockup this morning.

You have a lot of usefull, but BORING video's ;) thanks alot