@@ajpgolf yes that battery is probably the most powerful and best quality you can put in it

@ alright then

@@bodybagize they are fairly easy to fit, it is a little awkward due to the location but not to hard, 2 x10mm for the terminals and 1 12mm for the clamp ideally 1/4 drive ratchet and sockets with small extension is all you need, the new battery is fully charged so no messing about needed to charge it.

@Mickytdi most smart chargers have pulse charge in them it just helps to breakdown the sulfates on the plates, it won't do miracles but my smart chargers have recovered batteries that would have had no chance of recovering on the alternator or bog standard chargers, so all in all they are good and better than your standard constant voltage chargers, plus you need smart chargers for agm batteries as the basic chargers can cause damage to the battery as agm prefer to charge at a lower voltage than standard lead acid or efb.

The salesperson may acted he didn't know the 12 V battery issue, to show that there is no really big issue, and maybe persuade you, to buy it. I cannot believe he really ignored the issue.

@ElementaryWatson-123 OEM battery wasn't available at the time and double the cost in the dealer. The owner requested a bigger battery, and with the information available and with past experience fitting bigger batteries to pretty much all other ford's that have BMS with 0 issues, i even upgraded the 700 amp efb on my car to a 800 amp agm almost 3 years ago with no issues at all, we also went with that as AGM 202 are not available aftermarket, sometimes you have to make a decision with what is available and what the customer wants. So time will tell

@@azerotha4531 the warning comes from Ford, not from me, you can do whatever you want. I just replaced my battery at the local Ford dealership, it's just $167 including labor and that includes 3 y warranty.

@ElementaryWatson-123 I'm in the UK less availability over here and most ford dealers here try to avoid these lol

Plus it's a 4 to 6 week wait to get in a dealer here even for a battery 🤣

I have one, the same problem 2024 USA. Just opened it up exactly the same

I hope mines didn't developed this type of problems. I bought this thinking it would be better than Milwaukee's loose battery connection problems. i hope it hold up for several years, guess I would keep my cheap & trusted impact wrench from Dong Cheng brands DCPB698/488 as a backup...🤦

@matts9717 Unfortunately, i can't help on this. The dealer sorted mine under warranty

@@petermedino2644 for testing batteries in cars along with starting charging etc the Ring is better due to the longer leads, allowing you to do all the testing from the drivers seat plus it displays the QR code on the tester so you can transfer the data to phone tablet etc much easier, the Yuasa is more suited to parts shops where you are mainly doing stock testing, and yuasa warranty testing. You can still do all the same testing with the yuasa starting charging etc minus the lithium test. But you will need to either have someone sat in the car or keep getting in and out of the car for each test.

@@azerotha4531 Thanks for the information. According to the technical specifications, the Yuasa GYT250 should have a cable length of 1.6 meters, so it's not that short. It should be enough for testing from the driver's seat, but if the battery is located in the trunk of the car, then 1.6 meters will be about short. Is that what you thought? Otherwise, as if that weren't enough, there is another almost identical tester, the Osram OBAG900, which, however, has the same button layout as the Yuasa GYT250. It should also be added that Ring belongs to the Osram company. So here we have three types of testers that are almost identical: Ring RBAG950, Yuasa GYT250 and Osram OBAG900. It would be nice to know which of these three testers is the top one :) As for the blue load tester, what brand is it? I was looking for a very similar tester and found a reputable brand DHC 500A2 for a good price, about 80 euros. I think that in this price category, the DHC 500A2 is one of the better ones.

@@azerotha4531 Thanks for the information. According to the technical specifications, the Yuasa GYT250 should have a cable length of 1.6 meters, so it's not that short. It should be enough for testing from the driver's seat, but if the battery is located in the trunk of the car, then 1.6 meters will be about short. Is that what you thought? Otherwise, as if that weren't enough, there is another almost identical tester, the Osram OBAG900, which, however, has the same button layout as the Yuasa GYT250. It should also be added that Ring belongs to the Osram company. So here we have three types of testers that are almost identical: Ring RBAG950, Yuasa GYT250 and Osram OBAG900. It would be nice to know which of these three testers is the top one :) As for the blue load tester, what brand is it? I was looking for a very similar tester and found a reputable brand DHC 500A2 for a good price, about 80 euros. I think that in this price category, the DHC 500A2 is one of the better ones.

@@azerotha4531 Thanks for the information. According to the technical specifications, the Yuasa GYT250 should have a cable length of 1.6 meters, so it's not that short. It should be enough for testing from the driver's seat, but if the battery is located in the trunk of the car, then 1.6 meters will be about short. Is that what you thought? Otherwise, as if that weren't enough, there is another almost identical tester, the Osram OBAG900, which, however, has the same button layout as the Yuasa GYT250. It should also be added that Ring belongs to the Osram company. So here we have three types of testers that are almost identical: Ring RBAG950, Yuasa GYT250 and Osram OBAG900. It would be nice to know which of these three testers is the top one :) As for the blue load tester, what brand is it? I was looking for a very similar tester and found a reputable brand DHC 500A2 for a good price, about 80 euros. I think that in this price category, the DHC 500A2 is one of the better ones.

@azerotha4531 Thanks for the information. According to the technical specifications, the Yuasa GYT250 should have a cable length of 1.6 meters, so it's not that short. It should be enough for testing from the driver's seat, but if the battery is located in the trunk of the car, then 1.6 meters will be about short. Is that what you thought? Otherwise, as if that weren't enough, there is another almost identical tester, the Osram OBAG900, which, however, has the same button layout as the Yuasa GYT250. It should also be added that Ring belongs to the Osram company. So here we have three types of testers that are almost identical: Ring RBAG950, Yuasa GYT250 and Osram OBAG900. It would be nice to know which of these three testers is the top one :) As for the blue load tester, what brand is it? I was looking for a very similar tester and found a reputable brand DHC 500A2 for a good price, about 80 euros. I think that in this price category, the DHC 500A2 is one of the better ones.

@Mickytdi if i remember it was about 4 or 5 years old was either from a diesel juke or qashqai and at the time did not start the car, and the stop start system had not worked for about 10 months or so, and that was before this cold weather. I put it on a full bench charge to get as much charge in it to see how good it could get, and that was the most it could manage lol

@ i replaced my AGM in my Passat at 7 years. The meter read down to 350 A EN. It Still would start but on cold mornings it would be like winding up an old tractor before it started lol. It also gave strange symptoms. Sometimes after a long drive and the car was left sitting for about 5 mins it would barely start but left for an hour the starter cranked ok.

@Mickytdi I'm trying to remember what it tested as on the day I think it close to the 300 amp region, give or take a bit lol and once running it was only accepting 9 amps charge, the owner decided not to bother messing about charging it and seeing how it went, and decided on a new battery, that reading was after a few days on a smart charger. So, there is no chance it would have been a reliable battery lol

@paulosouza3369 now that's not very long at all... at least yours still under warranty. Mine still works perfectly after the strip down and clean still noisey but no power loss, but it's now semi retired and only used for tight spaces or awkward ones where the DCF900 won't fit. I hope you got yours exchanged?

@Mickytdi I've found that testing as SAE/CCA is a closer reading to the more expensive Testers in EN setting and also on Yuasa warranty testing for their batteries any tester other than their own must be tested as CCA so unless you tested it as CCA give it a test using SAE/CCA Ive just this second done a test on a new yuasa 7096 EN700 ring rbag950 tested it as EN686 SOH 97% the BT600 result in EN was EN604 soh 74% and in CCA measured at cca653 soh 87% so I would at an average test it as cca and add 10% to the bt600 result its not going to be accurate for all tests just what I've had right this second on the 2 Testers hope that helps

@ I also have the Topdon 101 tester for a few years now. Also gives similar results. Just tested my friends 700A En battery and his reads 100% SOH and it’s 2 years old. Interestingly when my car was a month old the battery read 880 A EN. Will try the CCA reading tomorrow

@Mickytdi there are a lot of variables sometimes too many to take into consideration and not all Testers from the same tester manufacturer will give the same reading i had before the bt600 the bt300p and that bugger failed 80% of batteries and compared to a company midtronics i had at the time only 10% or so had actually failed lol. Interestingly, i attended a vw polo last week elderly couple both had polo's both same age, same battery, and very similar milage ie 100 mile difference and 4 years old one still had a good ish battery ie passes a test the other failed miserably

@roberthuntley1090 Yes, it's no different to a battery going completely flat. You just need to switch off the car if it still has power. Wait until the systems shut down usually 5 min. Disconnect negative first, then the battery clamp, then positive re fit in reverse order. Sometimes, you will get a few warning lights on initial start-up, but a drive about for 10 min to allow the car to re calibrate the systems switch off for 10 min and that should remove any warning lights.

@eneradu I would go for a Yuasa YBX5202 also make sure you have the latest software updates on the cars systems as toyota made a few tweaks to the computers to help prevent them from draining the battery over a few days of not being used

@davidtyrell246 it shouldn't affect the warranty in any way, and if it's under warranty, there should be no fee to pay, but if the dealer says no fault or blame you for the battery then the fee will apply some dealers are better than others so try another see what they say. 12v batteries are classed as wear and tear items and can be changed else where without affecting the rest of the cars warranty, the AA can change them for a better battery, price is around £135 fitted for a bosch or yuasa might aswell spend the 135 on a new battery and save £9 on toyotas diagnostic fee

@Mickytdi it's a discontinued model that was based on the DHC BTW300. for the £35 i paid it was a bargain lol

@@azerotha4531 Do you happen to have a copy of the software install apk ? looking on the playstore i can not find it. Its cheap but if the software is not installable bit pointless

@Mickytdi usually a shorted cell will heat up the battery while it self discharges and drop the volts to 9v give or take, its most likely each cell has dropped a small amount of voltage but can still show a good amp reading, ideally I'd like to get a good carbon pile battery load tester to compare to the conductence Testers as those actually put the battery under load and show up faults these Testers can miss or get wrong

@@azerotha4531Interestingly a friend has a 2023 Tiguan diesel. Has a 700 A battery EFB+. Voltage can be quite low. I often see it at 12.4 volts. Tester says it has its full 700 A EN. Starts fine but i have seen errors flashing up for a second when started up from cold. The car doesn’t get a lot of use so he periodically hooks it up to a charger every so often. I disconnected the sensor on his battery to disable the energy recouperation and start stop. However the battery still struggles to maintain a voltage over 12.4. I think an EFB should be 12.7 fully charged? As comparison my 2024 Octavia vRS diesel has the same battery and according to my BT battery monitor it’s resting at 12.69v

@Mickytdi does your battery tester have a start testing function to monitor what the voltage drops too, when Cranking? If the voltage drops too low it can cause errors in the ecu's which will throw up errors, with the battery connected to the car during testing untill all the systems have shut down there will be power consumption causing the voltage to be lower, best way to test a battery is remove the battery, fully charge then leave to rest 24 hours if after 24 hours the voltage drops back to 12.4v then ideally new battery but if it starts and he's happy to continue then just carry on it won't cause too many problems untill the day it dies lol, I have a T6.1 van and have the battery sensor permanently disconnected been like that 2 years lol

@ yeah it does. I didn’t bother testing cranking voltage because the errors told me it must be low lol. I checked voltage when everything shut down on the tiguan after an hour. Regarding testing cranking voltage i wonder is it that reliable on modern cars? My 2024 (8 months old) car with good resting voltage and tests over it’s 700a EN still gave a low cranking voltage this morning (8.5v according to BM) . Starter sounded brisk and started instantly.

@Mickytdi 8.5v is fine from memory anything bellow 7v on a fully charged battery is too low and each manufacturer will be different toyota hybrids can freak out when they drop bellow 12v, again there are just so many variables when it comes to batteries and each car manufacturer will behave differently. Most modern stop start smart charge cars will only keep the battery at around 12.4v this is to allow the battery to accept plenty of charge when using regenerative breaking, also vw batteries tend to show a lower test rating on the battery than they are actually rated for, the 700 amp efb varta made one is actually a 760amp but they lower the sticker rating to help it pass tests better. It lowers warranty claims lol, the 680 agm is actually a 760 agm with a lower rated sticker, vw audi group are tight on battery warranty claims. There is no hard evidence of this but if you look at the varta brand equivalent you will see a higher rating on those batteries compared to the varter made vag batteries 🤣

I know, hence, I tested some used batteries as well. You can test new batteries perfectly fine with the conductance testers but the batteries won't be at perfect health untill after several start cycles but they should still pass a test, if they fail then its pointless fitting it to the car as it will soon come back with a battery fault. This is also one reason hybrid and EV cars go through 12v batteries faster than standard internal combustion engines the current draw when turning them on isn't helping the plates stay in good condition, or condition them in the first place.

@ i found the cheaper Topdon arti 100 a very reliable indicator of my AGM battery failing over time. It was rated at 680 A EN. I watched it gradually drop to 350 A over the years. I could predict it failing with that tool. It started struggling to start at 350 when cold. The new battery i fitted was 760 A en but only read 560 A when new. After a couple months of use it read 790 A

@Mickytdi I've never actually seen a new battery test 200 Amps bellow the rating obviously not impossible lol most of the new batteries I test tend to be the rated number, higher or around 10% bellow the rated number, but your experience shows how much they can improve over time 👍

@ i have noticed temperature can give different results with these testers. I did come across one 5 year old battery that fooled my tester. A friend had a bad battery. My tester read 40 A over it’s rated A and passed it but was still causing intermittent low cranking issues. Do you see much of a Amperage loss before cranking issues? When someone comes to you with battery issues what’s the average SOH % are they reading? I replaced my last battery at 30% SOH. It still was starting but low cranking in frost.

@Mickytdi batteries are a mine field lol I've seen batteries show 800 amps out of 850 but when Cranking the voltage will drop to 2v the fault in the battery can sometimes trick the tester, these Testers are not perfect but they have a good track record, I did a range rover last week because the electronic boot would not lift open but when running it worked fine, the battery passed a test but was only just a pass, new battery on it and the boot was back to normal operation, modern cars have smart charge and stop start and most car manufacturers will have a 60 to 75% SOH replacement figures again this varies between manufacturers, older cars let's say pre 2000 can get away with 45 to 50% SOH before replacement is recommended. If I come across a car that fails a test but only just and once running the battery is accepting 50% or more of the AH then its a good chance a good charge will recover it but if the battery is say accepting less than 30% of its AH it will usually not recover you might get the odd one but most won't tricke chargers can do wonders to recover batteriesbut you will only know once you try to charge it. Temp plays a big part as the temp drops the engine reqs more amps to turn over but the batteries ability to deliver tge Amps drop, so if you have a car that needs say 300 amps to start the car at 20 degrees and the battery has 330 amps it will start fine once you hit say 0 degrees the engine will need say 320 amps but the battery can now only deliver 310 amps it might just catch and start or just not quite make it this is one reason batteries produce more power than needed to allow wear overtime and still be reliable and to deal with the very cold temps some places get, those numbers are just examples lol and not scientifically tested 🤣

@CJ.A-C surprisingly, you don't get instructions, and every video i watched never mentioned it lol, this is why comments help, every day is a school day, and the video wasn't how Accurate is the slider, its how well it tests batteries of certain designs and ages, on a regular basis I get people coming to me saying a various garages that failed a battery using various Testers when I tested it, using my works tester it passed, so I just wanted to try a few and see for my self, not all Testers are the same.

@@azerotha4531 well done .question what was your view on the launch.i use the 7 version overpriced over rated and expensive to run.i know only do a/c on trucks and cars . iknow 7 people who have the launch and not one of them have upgraded after 2 years up

@CJ.A-C it works great for my needs I'm in the breakdown industry and mainly use it for battery coding the dreaded adblue resets and general code reading and clearing, it will struggle to do the resets and coding on cars from 2022 onwards because most manufacturers are using secure diagnostic access which means you need to have accounts with them and pay them to unlock the control units to do the necessary resets coding etc, I also use the companies Bosch diagnostics which can unlock the moduels but it's a fiddley system to use and surprisingly the launch is simpler to use and actually does a better job, but when I need a car unlocked from the manufacturer I'll use the bosch to unlock the moduels which usually gives you an hour or 2 access, then use the launch to do the work, I paid about £700 for that unit with 2 year updates, the unit will continue to work fine once the updates run out but once you need it for a car that has been made after the last update it won't work effectively or at all, but if you tend to work on older cars there shouldn't be any issues. At the moment, it won't work on the brand new transit custom as launch have not yet done the software for it. Hopefully, they release that soon and if I didn't have the free updates I'd have to use bosch which I don't like lol.

@spannerman2887 I was going to get a carbon pile load tester, but I ran out of money child no2 due in 8 weeks, so spending has stopped for a while, well on battery equipment that is lol. I did do another video testing some 202 batteries from toyota lexus and VW and put them on a simple load that simulates a basic drain like lights left on etc, but for now that's about all I can do unless santa sends me one but I don't think he carries carbon pile load Testers 🤣

@spannerman2887 have found a 500 amp carbon pile load tester going cheap so I'll be seeing how they get on with that when it arrives

@ysjmichael can't say i remember seeing LOV before... was the battery still connected to the car? And do you get the same reading on every test?

@@azerotha4531 Yes the battery was still connected. I tested the charged battery after watching your video, so I was quite surprised to see anything other than number. I tested it twice, with same reading of 'LOV' - almost felt like a prank. Ring's website isn't particularly helpful. I had no problem starting the car, and checked the voltage on my return from a shop visit, still topped. I'll test it again soon to find out.

@ysjmichael try testing it with the battery disconnected from the car it's possible the electronics on the car are causing this weirdness this also happens with some battery Testers they put up an error untill the battery is disconnected from the car

@@azerotha4531 Potentially the electronics are causing this. I'll keep an eye on this and try testing again when it's not so windy.

@MrAsadEp it sure is, probably made by the same manufacturer lol, only difference is software and longer leads and button placement

@azerotha4531 glad I found your video re: yuasa unit. Saved me some money. How are you finding this unit?

@MrAsadEp it's all good probably not as good as the new midtronics but they are stupidly expensive, for the price this is good and that this can do lithium is a bonus, you do go through printer paper rather quickly lol, unless you just scan the QR code on the screen like I do saves on paper lol

@azerotha4531 Nice one, to be fair, this one isn't cheap cheap at around £300. Appreciate the comparisons.

@jeffscantling6199 Sorry I missed this one lol, how old was yours? Just Over 2 years for me lol. Mines a bit noisy still, but no power loss lol. It's now semi retired now after getting the DCF900

@azerotha4531 mine was about 3 years old, I found a little chunk of metal embedded in the ring gear and pulled it. It is not quite as good as new now but it works, and it's my only powerful impact. Thanks for the video, I couldn't afford a new impact gin right now but mine is going again.

@@jeffscantling6199 I'm glad it helped you out 👍

@daveforster6617 it is strange. I'm personally a big fan of lexus I've had a few over the years, and out of all the cars I've had, they are still the cars I miss the most, hopefully they will get a grip on things and get it sorted

@daveforster6617 that will definitely help you. You just need to be careful with these cars, sitting in them without the ready light on listening to the radio is the main culprit and so is cleaning the inside without the ready light on. The LBX battery is actually less powerful than the yaris battery, which is just weird, I did a comparison video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWe3c6Csl9aGkNUsi=p1pHGABrtwmEa4uz

@carpman6495 Sweet, knowledge goes a long way 👍

@Devil_Z786 mine did the same after 6 or 7 months. Fortunately, I registered mine with ring and they sent me a new one.

Yes same here, tripped out the board and now won't charge. Wondering if it was the freezing conditions outside

@shaunwade8552 I think it just burns out depending on how much it's used. Mine was used a lot at times too keep my battery stock fully topped up, I also have a ring smart charge pro that's 13 years old and is the most used charger I have and still going strong, when my ring RSC612 packs up I'll just buy another smart charge pro.

@@shaunwade8552 possibly ? I only used mine once and then kept on box at home . Came winter and just didn’t work any longer ? Might end up buying a noco they seem reliable

@@azerotha4531 unfortunately I was well out of warranty . I bought it a year before and never needed to use it and when I did need it for the second time it just wasn’t working . Might invest in a noco charger they seem reliable

@wags-waggy cheers, there are lot of people suffering with this issue both LBX and Yaris, the main reason for these videos is to help owners understand some of the problem, especially when dealers fob them off as there's no issue, or blame the owners for the battery going flat, LBX owners who don't know how to use the emergency door open leaver or that it's there, often get locked in the car, recently had one owner call 999 because he couldn't get out of the car.

@@azerotha4531 My LBX should arrive in the next couple of weeks but I've already bought a lithium jump pack in preparation. I've also got the Sealey BT3000 but that's mainly for my campervan which sits on the drive for weeks on end. Thanks for the informative videos!

I forgot to include; when the 12 volt battery goes flat in an EV you are absolutely 'dead in the water', hence the AA callouts. But why should I have to buy a booster? Should Toyota include one with the sale?

@jonnyboi6342 correct on a few things, a warranty claim from most manufacturers is only accepted on bad cell test results caused by manufacturing defects. Anything else is classed as ware and tear, imagine buying 2 new tyres then doing a burn out till they exploded or lost all tread the manufacturer won't cover that as its your fault lol, when im dealing with battery issues there are various things that need to be taken into consideration such as amount of use, milage, vehicle condition such as electrical faults amongst other things, a battery that fails a test or in this case won't hold good voltage is down to ware and tear and not warranty accepted and is fully explained to the owner, With regards the toyota batteries it's more of a quality issue they are the smart price of the battery world. A better quality battery will give better performance and last longer, the older AGM batteries they used lasted years, some 10+ years. With regards the charger I've got 3 of them all different ones, remember if the plates are worn out or damaged they won't recover, yes there are people that claim to be able to fully recover damaged batteries by doing all sorts but they either take a lot of faffing to do or it don't work, end of the day we live in the real world and people just don't want the hassle, new battery and away they go, most that have upgraded the quality of the battery get less issues, no car and no battery is immune to going flat or failing early on unless they are looked after, and everyone I go out to that has a flat battery regardless if the battery is good or bad gets the same advice on how to look after a battery and they all get the options to charge it up and see how they get on buy one from the company i work for or go elsewhere for new batteries, everyone has a choice that's theirs to make. Most yaris owners tend to buy a new battery because they have been the dealers a few times and gave got fed up with going there not having the car for upto a few days to be told stupid things like you need to do 12k per year and getting fobbed off. A good quality battery is always the best option and take things from there.

Yes, 21s century engineering and yet motor manufacturers produce cars like this that aren't fit for purpose. Apparently various Toyota owner's clubs suggest turning off all sorts of mod cons on their cars to minimise this 12v drain. Absolute nonsense. And of course you must not leave the car undriven for a few days.

@zbigniewrichard8291 Most modern cars do monitor the state of charge and state of health them self's. You can use diagnostic computers to see it in live data. Like yourself, I believe that info should be accessible on the dash. Some cars will give you battery voltage and charge voltage, but don't give you a state of health which is the most important, if your car gave you that info or popped up a warning saying battery heath bellow minimum requirement please replace, it would prevent a lot of flat battery breakdowns lol

@@azerotha4531 That is exactly what I want to avoid since most modern cars (including my car) don't even alert you about the battery's state of health. You just find that bad news at the worst possibly moment. I am particulary annoyed about missing SOC value on the dashboard since the electrical system of my car has a Battery Monitoring System device near the negative pole of the battery. That is why I presumed BST360 can send continuous data to my compatible Launch X431 Pro5 tablet that will draw a graph under Battery Test section.

@stephenkellett7382 still going strong. I've put a larger capacity panasonic 18650 in it as the keepower isn't the best out there, lol

@Milsmek it was still under VW warranty, so I just gave it to them to fix for free lol

@charliegeorge. cranking amps are not needed on a hybrid as the battery doesn't start the engine, the hybrid battery starts the engine. However, there is usually a corelation with CCA and AH. The higher the CCA, the higher the AH. One of the main issues with these batteries is quality, it's just not great. Any decent quality battery will be an upgrade even if it's the same 35AH, but as they say bigger is better lol, and 45AH is probably the biggest you can get in a battery of that size, as you can't fit a physically larger battery in the space.

@simplywinning1170 I think the mk3 is the same as the mk3.5 and has a lift pump that automatically primes the filter, but if you're not sure? Then, just top up the filter with diesel before putting the top back on. It should be OK. Mk2 and mk1 probably don't have lift pumps and would need priming