Tell me a little more about your set up. Can you see the attitude indicator moving as you tip the stratux around? Do you have the AHRS chip installed on your Stratux? I think the gray screen means it's not getting enough data, but I'm not totally sure.

@@robertwatson17 - apart from the ANR, the L1 is very similar to the L2. I have another video where I compared several headsets in-flight. The L1 was one of them: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4CWq4yqicZ1iLM

​@@dan_der_fliegerThanks for the response, Just finished the video, would you say the L2's ANR quality is comparable to that of the A7? Also, have you heard about the Quiet Technologies Halo? It's roughly the same price as the L2 but only with PNR. Which of the 2 would you choose, and even if you haven't used the Halo yourself would you always recommend the L2 when it comes to that ~$350 price range? Lastly wanted to know if you ever got to do custom molded earplugs Thanks again!

I used to typically choose the L2 over the A7. I think the ANR is a little better. But I recently got the A7 with Bluetooth and have been using that (probably only 2 or 3 flights). The L2's ANR is a little better than that one as well, but I like having the Bluetooth feature to listen to music. I haven't tried molded earplugs, but I did buy some aftermarket memory foam ear buds. They are a little more comfortable than the stock ones. I will say that the L2, even with the better earbuds, can get uncomfortable in your ear canals during a long flight.

@@dan_der_flieger Thanks again for your insight, really helpful. Will let you know my final decision

The best one I have found is the MPXV7007DP. www.nxp.com/part/MPXV7007DP It has two ports - one would be used for pitot and the other for static pressure. It can sense up to 7kPa from either nozzle. It's an analog sensor, so you would use an analog port on the Arduino to read the value. The sensor has 8 pads, but you only use 3 of them: +5V, GND, and the output. The output will send a voltage between 0V and +5V, which is read by the Arduino. * 0V = -7kPa of pressure * 2.5V = matching pressure on both nozzles * 5V = +7kPa of pressure Just make sure your Arduino uses 5V logic. Many are 3.3V logic and putting 5V on that GPIO will fry your board. If you have an Arduino with 3.3V logic, you can step the voltage down using a "voltage divider" circuit. It's built using two resistors. Here's a calculator that you can use to figure out which resistors to use to step from 5V down to 3.3V: ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator But if your Arduino uses 5V logic, you can use the sensor directly - no need to use the voltage divider.

@@dan_der_flieger Thanks a lot for your answering and time, and two more question 1. This all work throw CAN interface correct? (i mean true Air Speed sensor MPXV7007DP) 2. pyEfis work with Stratux and CAN interface (all sensors) at the same time (simultaneously) or not

1. That's how I set it up - air pressure differential sensor to an Arduino with a CAN interface. Then the CAN data is received on the RPi. 2.Yes, it should all work at the same time. The FIX Gateway is designed to collect data from many sources and present it to pyEFIS to display.

@@dan_der_flieger Matek ASPD-4525 i got this, what you think can it work? And what part of arduino i need buy for connect this aspd-4525 to can interface

​@@VVV-AVIATION- I've never used that sensor before, but it looks like it would probably work. It seems like it uses an I2C connection, which pretty much all Arduinos support. As far as the Arduino goes, none of them (as far as I know) support CAN directly. You need a CAN transceiver to pass the CAN data. However, Adafruit has two microcontroller boards that have a CAN bus transceiver built in. I've played around with them and they work pretty well. Here's one with an RP2040 microcontroller: www.adafruit.com/product/5724 And here's one with a Cortex M4 (better chip): www.adafruit.com/product/4759 Adafruit also has Arduino libraries and code samples to get you started: learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m4-can-express

I've seen that before, but I'm not sure what causes it to happen. I *_think_* it happens when the data coming into pyEFIS arrives slower than it likes. I know there have been some updates to pyEFIS, but I haven't had time to look at them. It might be worth changing to the develop branch to see if things are better.

@@VVV-AVIATION "ip addr" is also a great command. Thanks for mentioning it.

@@dan_der_flieger Bro, why some times Screen in PyEfis its grey? Please help

@@VVV-AVIATION I haven't looked at pyEfis in a while. I think it has to do with whether or not the attitude indicator has enough data. Like it goes grey to show that it's not sure about the data.

@@dan_der_flieger Thanks a lot

@@thomascarlin2844 you're right, her support is definitely a big bonus.

Hey Andy. I've gotta say ... seeing your new shop is making me jealous. I've been enjoying watching you work on it. I've dropped a few hints that I'd like to do something similar, but so far my wife is not on board. 🫤 If you have a link to the light offsets, let me know. I'd like to have a look.

Aircraft spruce, in the search put in .... Sonex Wing Adapter for Aveo Lights $ 274.95 a pair

@@pandyseven I'll have a look. Thanks!

Thanks. It's slow-going, but also nice to see some progress along the way.

Thanks for the constructive criticism. I personally prefer videos with some music, but everyone's entitled to an opinion. Thanks for sharing yours. Regarding the reuse of nyloc nuts, take a look at AC 43.13-1b. It states: "f. Fiber or nylon locknuts are constructed with an unthreaded fiber or nylon locking insert held securely in place. The fiber or nylon insert provides the locking action because it has a smaller diameter than the nut. Fiber or nylon self-locking nuts are not installed in areas where temperatures exceed 250 °F. After the nut has been tightened, make sure the bolt or stud has at least one thread showing past the nut. DO NOT reuse a fiber or nylon locknut, if the nut cannot meet the minimum prevailing torque values. (See table 7-2.)" However, "Table 7-2" only specifies minimum torque values down to 7/16" bolts, so the AN-3/AN-4 (e.g. 3/16" / 1/4", respectively) nuts I've replaced on my kit aren't even listed in that table. My interpretation is that you can't reuse a nut that should only be reused according to the torque spec in that table if it's not listed in the table. More importantly, though, you can buy a pack of 25 of them from Aircraft Spruce for $2.50. There are several of those nuts that are within the riveted skins of the wing. I'm not taking any chances that any of them backs out just because I want to save a dime and then have to drill and re-skin my wing - or worse, have a wing crumple midair - because I didn't want to spend literally a few cents to replace a nut. Obviously, you're welcome to your opinion/interpretation but I'd strongly caution against what you're saying. There's no reason NOT to replace those nuts.

@@keithhoward9238 nice!

Thanks for watching, Gabe. Sounds like you have a solid plan to add redundant systems and not rely on any single one (which is a good idea). I'm still not sold on actually using this in my airplane yet, but I've learned a LOT from dabbling with all of the components and that's a good enough reason to play around with it IMO.

Thanks Andy. Yeah, it's pretty sad. That's nice that your mom was around to read your book. I bet she was proud.

she was Dan, but truly think she got it, it wasn't long after she read it, she passed on.

Yeah, this is for pull/blind rivets. Sounds like your guitar case has compression rivets. Maybe try using a file or a Dremel with a grinding wheel to flatten the round top of the rivet before trying to drill it.

@@dan_der_flieger I don't have a dremmel... i'm thinking i'll make a youtube video...

I haven't had any issues with geomag. It's a pretty common library. Are you sure you've installed it with the correct version of pip (should be pip version 3) and are you sure you have Python version 3.x set as the default? It probably won't work if it's set to Python version 2 unless you specifically run it with v. 3 (python3 ./pyEfis).

@@dan_der_flieger I think it may be because of the 2.0 install. I got it running. Now i'm just trying to figure out how to make it work with my stratux.

It's part of an open source package called MakerPlane (makerplane.org/). Specifically, most of what you see in this video is the pyEFIS project. Here's a link to another one of my videos that describes how to use it and, in particular, how to get AHRS data from a Stratux ADS-B receiver: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3uzl4Kjbd2qoNU And here's another one demonstrating some printed circuit boards I designed for use with the project: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXrWp5KahrmAr9E Note that the pyEFIS project was recently updated and has changed a little since I made those videos. I haven't had a chance to play around with it very much yet, so I can't answer any questions about the new version.

I don't know 100% why. Probably so they can be drilled up to size and have a perfect match.

I would have loved to have had a book like that before I started.

Hey John. The rivets in the lap go thru the spar caps as well (top and bottom). Those particular rivets are not flush (and, consequently, the holes are not dimpled). On the inboard end of the wing, there's another sheet that is also fastened with rivets (they call it the "root skin doubler"). My interpretation of the drawings is that those holes are also NOT dimpled. I emailed Gavin to see what his thoughts were and he had come to the same conclusion. My thought was that dimpling 3 skins and riveting them together is likely to yield some amount of gap/play, which reinforced my decision to just use normal rivets there with no dimple for the root doubler holes. I should also mention that the drawings only call for flush rivets on the forward skin, but not all of the holes on the forward skin.

@@dan_der_flieger Thanks for the prompt feedback. Looking forward to the next video.

I genuinely enjoy the building part of aviation. Probably more than flying, if I'm honest.

Yeah, it seemed to work really well.

Correct on both observations. The sunny day was much more fun than the rainy day.

Haha. Yeah, I do wear a hat often. I like to cover what my wife calls my "solar panel." You sort of have to work from the back forward. The aft skins align with the rear spar (both are pre-drilled to mate with each other) and then the forward skin matches the forward-most holes in the aft skins, but you have to drill through both into the main spar (top and bottom). Once those holes are lined up, then you drill the holes in the forward ribs. To prevent a hump, you have to drill the ribs from the spar to the leading edge because the aft side is already in place. It would be better if the forward skin was bent more and didn't spring outward as much as it does. It seems to add stress where it doesn't need to be.

Cool. Another Marylander. Are you building a Sonex too?

@@dan_der_flieger I was looking at it. Not sure yet.

Hey John, thanks for watching. When I decided to build a Sonex, I thought the same thing about the other KZbin videos. I wanted to see HOW they did the work, not just hear about it after it was done. So I try to demonstrate the work more than the walk around afterward. It takes a lot longer, but I think it's valuable. So far, I've found the plans to be very complete, but you're right - they don't have many step-by-step written out instructions. A few of the more difficult assemblies do have a numbered list of tasks, but only if it matters what order you do them in and if it's not clear by looking at the drawings. I would just caution you to make sure you read every word on the drawing before starting. Every once in a while I'll find something surprising that I would have missed if I didn't take 20 minutes to look really closely beforehand. And on a couple of occasions, I thankfully noticed part of the way through the assembly. Other times, I've had to buy a few replacement parts. There are lots of good online resources as well. I suggest the Sonex Builders Facebook group and the SonexBuilders.net forum. Both have people that are either actively building or who have completed their builds and are willing to answer questions about how they tackled something successfully.

@cosscd7683 - Bon jour. I haven't tried to directly connect any sensors to the Raspberry Pi. I've only attached them to Arduino devices and used CAN bus connections. And I haven't used Thonny (I've heard of it, but no experience with it). I'm not sure that pyEFIS/FiX Gateway support what you want to do out of the box. But you'll probably want to do this in the FiX Gateway. Look under the plugins area and to find some code that does something similar to what you want to do. For example, look at ~/FIX-Gateway/fixgw/plugins/demo/ to get an idea how to get data into the FiX Gateway. The FG database key "ALT" is used for altitude. "CHT11" is cylinder head temperature for your 1st cylinder, "CHT12" is your second cylinder, etc. You'll have to look through the spec to figure out which database keys to use for the data you want to use.

Thank you for your response. You just connected sensors to Arduino and the Can connexions and the pyEfis program starts showing your sensors data on the screen without any other manipulation, is it? Can you give me an exemple of how did you do it for the altimeter sensor for exemple? Or can you guide me how can I connect my bmp280 to have data on my efis screen simple without any complications? Best regards@@dan_der_flieger

@@cosscd7683 That's mostly correct. I have a sample program for Arduino that I'll post to my GitHub repository in the next few days. I used an Arduino Leonardo board with a built-in CAN transceiver: a.co/d/ai5J6or And on the Raspberry Pi running the FiX Gateway and pyEFIS, I used a USB CAN interface: a.co/d/e9XDWXj I had to wire the two can interfaces together (two wires - High and Low) and write code on the Arduino that created the CAN messages in the format that the FiX Gateway was expecting. MakerPlane has a useful library for Arduino/CAN/FiX messaging that simplifies it: github.com/makerplane/CAN-FIX-ArduinoLib

Thank you, Dan, it’s clear for me, I wait for your example post in GitHub for ideas. Have a nice day

@cosscd7683 - Sorry for how long this took to complete, but I have posted my demo code to my github repository: github.com/danderflieger/mcd_can_simple_demo/ Hopefully it's helpful for you.

Between the two of us, probably 400 lbs (most of that is me), I usually fly with 16 gal of fuel (so about 100 lbs) and my flight bag is probably 8 lbs or so.

I agree 100%. Always go slightly nose heavy to make sure it shows a stall when there's not enough relative wind to show a correct angle. If you look at the latest version of my angle of attack sensor, you'll see that the counter weight/wind vane shaft is adjustable so that it can be properly balanced: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3PaYoJrdriKgLMsi=nQtAt9RVMFasZ0d_

The AHRS module I connected was a Bosch IMU that won't work on a fixed wing aircraft. I connected to it with a CAN bus module. You can add an AHRS chip/IMU to a Stratux (using the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins) and that is more likely to work. That's as far as I've gone at this point - I'm working on my airplane now rather than the EFIS stuff.

@dan_der_flieger but stratus work only through wi fi ? I dont want use wi fi

@@VVV-AVIATION - I feel the same way, but that's as far as the pyEFIS project has gone at this point. There is another gentleman who is making many improvements to pyEFIS right now. He has integrated an RC aircraft controller which can give attitude indications. See his video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/opvcknuBqJamaKcsi=EQncFiL_lwJpgRu1 He is working on a lot of really good improvements and making very good progress.

@dan_der_flieger Thank you bro 🙏

I don't think you can change the size of the buttons. The best you can do is move them to the bottom of the display and change the spacing between them. Here are the values you can change to do that: button_spacing: left_margin: top_margin: If you use a negative number for the button_spacing: property (for example -120) the buttons will line up in reverse order.

@dan_der_flieger yes i did so , thanks bro

Haha. Duly notes. Thanks. It's my goal to slip it into every conversation I can, as often as I can. 😆

A couple of people have commented here on KZbin (as you can probably see). Another builder I've talked to a couple of times reached out via the Sonex Builders forum and said he came to very similar conclusions as I did. Here's a post he made about it: www.sonexbuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7569&p=57893

Hi Dan, the tolerances here are so small I would not have thought they would be that detrimental BUT believe in Sonex having done their homework and hence the drill sizes are to be smaller as noted. Firstly, let me make the point when building my RV6 don’t recall there being anything like this and only ever used #30, that said and if my maths is correct conclude the following: When riveting with the 1/8 [ 0.1250mm] , and using let’s say a #31 [ 0.1200mm] there is around a 0.0050 mm difference of which would be the growing distance the dimpling process would make the hole whereby the hole should then give you an equal size as to the 1/8 , which is 0.1250mm. By using your 7/64 [ 0.1094 mm + 0.0050= 0.1144mm], your hole is well below the 1/8 size so that is good. Lastly, we all must agree that when drill we can never be assured our drills are perpendicular to the drilling surface so could and possibly will elongate a hole every time, we drill thus oversizing possibly each and every time. So, if the tolerances are that detrimental why are we not using #31 every where for 1/8 rivets, when a # 30 is already oversized by 0.035mm???

@@pandyseven Hey Andy. You did a lot more math than I did. :) My method for finding the right drill bit was to drill several holes and dimple them to figure out which would allow me to still fit a silver cleco before dimpling (so everything stays together while drilling the rest of the holes) BUT ALSO allow me to use a copper cleco once the dimpling was complete. The 7/64" drill bit seemed to be the best size for both of those things. I will note that the rivets are a little tighter than they would be with #30 holes, but I also kind of like the tighter tolerances. I will probably need to upsize a few of the dimpled holes to get everything to fit together, but at least the holes will still be tighter than if I did it with a #31 or #32 drill bit. I didn't feel comfortable with how much play was left when drilling to #31/#32. The rivets were pretty loose in my opinion. #32 was definitely better than a #31, but still felt a little loose to me - only a .006 difference between the 7/64" and the #32, but it felt excessive to me after dimpling. #31 would definitely be too big for me to be comfortable with.

Interesting. I hadn't even thought about adhesive. I probably agree with John about the required skills needed to apply it properly. I assume you're talking about John Monnett??

Thanks David. So ... I actually didn't debur the holes on this test piece, and I mentioned that at the very end (like the last 30 seconds) and said that I would definitely do it on the actual wing when I get to it. Haha. You probably just stopped watching before then, which I probably would have done as well if I were you. 😏 Thanks for the kind words.

At 16:53 in the video, I show how to get to the configuration file. In that file, near the top, you can change the size of the window. The two properties you want to change are: - screenWidth: 800 - screenHeight: 480 Change the number after *screenHeight:* to whatever you want (600 in your case) save the file, then restart pyEFIS. That should be it.

@@dan_der_flieger i will, thanks a lot

@dan_der_flieger ill try change , but still nothing , change 800×600 then save yaml file but nothing- no any reactions

@@VVV-AVIATION which of the .yaml files are you changing? It's possible you're changing one that's not being used when you start up pyEFIS.

@dan_der_flieger i use same file what you use in video , home/pyEfis/pyefis/config/main.yaml

I built my Stratux while I was doing my flight training 8 years ago. I don't know if things have changed, but here's a link to the project's website. It looks like it has a parts list and assembly instructions: stratux.me/ If that doesn't answer your questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best. 🙂

@dan_der_flieger Thanks a lot bro, and one more question what you think about can it work on asus tinker board 2 ,? Or raspberry pi3 only, and where can i get img or iso files for it Thanks

@@VVV-AVIATION If you can run a Raspbian image on a tinker board, it should work. The only question is if you add the AHRS chip, the pinouts will have to be the same and the GPIO mapping would need to be the same. I've never used a tinker board, so I can't say one way or the other. You'll also want a board that supports WiFi. In my case I usually use "FltPlan Go" as my EFB (free for Android and iOS). I can't remember if I connected the pyEFIS via WiFi or Ethernet, but I know for sure that WiFi works with a tablet or phone for testing. As for RPi image, click this link and scroll down to the first "Assets" section. You'll want to download one of the stratux-v1...img.zip files. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two, but my best guess is that the one with "us" in the name is hosted on a server based in the US?? github.com/cyoung/stratux/releases

@dan_der_flieger i try build efis from your videos couple month and unlucky , but I hope 🙏 i can

Thanks Minnow! It's pretty satisfying to see smaller assemblies come together into an actual recognizable airplane part.

Thanks Andy. Regarding the rivet gun - I just figured it happened when I used a slightly longer rivet and had to pull the mandrel farther. But it does happen almost every time, so I'll have to take a look!