Using the grease is not the best route . For one grease is not a good lube for metal cutting , and as shown it leaves a mess. I use light cutting oil and a homemade attachment for the shop vac to get down in to vacuum the chips out. Pulling the head on a Ford v10 in an RV , no thanks.

So... you'll get the tiny shavings in between the cylinder wall and the piston and larger chunks in between the intake valve and the head as well as into the exhaust where they'll get lodged into the cat. No thanks, remove the head from the engine before repairing.

It’s interesting (also that I don’t have a lot of experience tapping out holes) that they don’t offer that in a kit, so that it would make the mechanics job easier. I believe they implemented that tooling in the ford triton repair kit.. because that one is just “tighten and go!!”

there is a kit that comes with the ream, the inserts, and the tap, only thing it doesnt come with is the spark plug and the jb weld

So, your calling all of the mechanics whose shoulders this entire industry is standing on, dumb. Because this is exactly how they did it back in the day….

@MechanicalTriage Not exactly. Smart people can have dumb ideas, after all. I mean, what was your video trying to express? It certainly didn't seem to be celebrating their ingenuity. Also, I am a professional mechanic with 25 years experience. The industry is on my shoulders too, friend.

@ my video had 2 positions. One, was to express that performing that repair on the vehicle is risky. The second was to solicit engagement for my channel. I believe I have accomplished both directives. :)

@@MechanicalTriage I, for one, would disagree about its excessive riskiness. I would agree that using grease as a cutting oil is not an effective way to mitigate what risks are present. The metal fragments produced do need to be cleaned, but there's little logic in incorporating them into a paste to do so. Some sort of lubricant will help prevent loading up the tap and having it jam and break, but it seems to me one can use a thin lubricant to do so, as long as you go slowly and carefully, as you otherwise have done. The job is only as good as the prep and cleanup, after all. But, to suggest that removing the head, and incurring the time and monetary costs of replacing head gaskets and bolts, checking the head for flatness and resurfacing if needed, plus the difficulty of removing intakes and exhausts and resealing their surfaces, and the complications of timing belts/chains, it seems that is all a far greater can of worms than taking the necessary care to do the job with top end in place (but yeah, definitely not using axle grease!).

​@@MechanicalTriagesad. Sad engagement. That's sad. Hope your channel explodes with sadness.. 😂 😢😢

I know, but I can’t RECOMMEND this as a valid repair, it only takes one chunk to destroy an engine.

@@MechanicalTriage meh, the countless ford tritons ive done say other wise. ive done one engine 7/8 cylinders and its first one was at 120k truck is around 220k now..

Hey man,you forget ,there are no valves in the two stroke 😊

People already arguing with me in the comments. Lol

That guy didn’t make it…. Also, I’ve seen people use acetalyne

This customer states it backed out at least once before, so he retightened it. Not sure if it was being torqued down properly though, as it left chat and cannot be examined.

@@MechanicalTriage hahahha that's awesome!

lol, it’s been holding up ever since that day. No issues, and dozens of off road adventures.

Danm

When I did It, they immediately had 20lbs in them, and i filled em right up to 34, been on the road for dozens of trips since.. its a better trick on a gigantic farm tire or in a pinch for a lawn mower

After 120k, that’s not bad. Ive overlooked those seals on a few jobs also. Make sure you address any pcv valve issues though, cause those seals might be rock hard, but you could also have excessive pcv pressures from ring blow by that is contributing to the leaks..

It’s definitely an interesting color. Lively metallic.

It holds dear to me, like cold (crossfade) because I’m not sure yet if the peace received when I’m gone is for me, or the people who have to deal with me as an insufferable human being

Sure, they might all have recalls, but for seems to have the most. Why would I recommend a car to a customer that is potentially going to cause them extra money and safety issues (ford) vs something more reliable like a honda or toyota? If they want to buy a dodge, go ahead, just save up for front end suspension rebuilds cause they suck. I inform them of what to expect and yes, it is their choice. And with over 20 years in the game, I definitely will tell anyone NOT to buy a fucking Ford. Or a Prius.

@MechanicalTriage cool, but you made a video on a car you hardly ever see anymore, and almost nobody owns the few that do know what they have, but all that to say don't buy a Ford. So I will wait on the square body Chevy from you when you tell us not to buy a Chevy or gmc bc of an old truck that the few who have know the risk. Ford doesn't have anymore recalls than any other company. If you're going to base telling someone what brand to buy based on recalls, we will all be walking.

@ well a quick Google search will indicate that the least amount of recalls on any vehicle manufactured would be the mini convertible, which I also think is a piece of garbage. However, when you Google, which vehicle manufacturer has the most recalls, Ford is highlighted with the absolute most so my statements still stand

“Tighten your gas cap” 😯…. No, but really, the evap code, is it a small evap leak, or a large evap leak. Also, any associated codes, like vent valve solenoid circuit?

Okay will do thank you so much for your response I've tied in the gas cap I'm smelling a little less guys than I did before I'm going to drive it for a few miles today and see the results

Yes it's P0455 large/gross

@@DasKaysrt3 that could be a gas cap, could also be a stuck vent valve on the charcoal canister. (Next to the gas tank). If you get to clear the codes, chances are that code could take 3 days to return.

Easily good for another 50,000miles

did you inspect them for worn and burnt electrodes and cracks in the porcelain?

Electrodes are worn, got 50-60k on them for sure. Just toss a new set in, why would we ever reuse old parts that could potentially destroy the engine.

I have a 98 Trans Am all original. I like it better than newer cars.

I would say no, (because it could be done in the engine bay) however, if you want to take the opportunity to freshen up the engine bay, and clean the block thoroughly, have the time, and it’s not “costing more” go ahead. I’ve tore down heads and redone timing without removing engines on chain driven 3.5 Toyotas. Those are absolutely supposed to come out. But it worked. Just fine.

@ thanks for the reply, im getting quoted around 2k for the valves as thats what the symptoms are indicating. I find it steep since thats over what the engine would cost altogether.

@whazuup000 yeah, but rebuilding is labor intensive. It’s basically a head gasket with extra steps. That sounds cheap if it’s being done correctly. (Valve lapping, adjusting, etc).

@whazuup000 also, what symptoms?

@@MechanicalTriage started miss firing checked and one cylinder had lower compression. Had already checked injectors-coils and plugs prior to the compression test.