Thanks duder! It was a labor of love and needed a way to fixture both arms

Nate your are the freaking man!

Thanks for the support! Ya I come from drag racing its super common but rarely found in drifting. But ya serviceability in a drift car is key

@@masonthedriver I figured as much looking at the back ground of the video and the setup tables. Excited to see how this project progresses!

Thanks for the support! Because thats where the tie rod is gunna mount. If i was to do a tube it could potentially twist vs plate will be more rigid. That section basically takes the load of the UCA forces and the Tie Rod forces

@@masonthedriver Thank you for the explanation! I have learned something new for me

Thank you Brian! Shes getting there

Thanks Duder!!!

Thanks for the tip my dude. You are right. I notice it realllly affects stainless.

Thanks for the love! If you got any suggestions for videos let me know

That’s for the tie rod. It’s a similar design to the new nex gen nascar rear suspension design

Same here! It’s gunna be exciting to see when it’s done. Hot pit will allow it. I’ve been in constant contact with them and updated them on the build

Thank you Daven!

Thank you for the kind words Jon cheers!

Improved Racing. Didnt work though. Engine still starved of oil

Thank you for the kind words. But ya its quite the balance between time, money, effort etc.

If you have never built anything before I would highly suggest using a existing subframe and angle kit. BUT if you are adapting it to a existing car make sure your track width is where you want it from stock. If you plan on widebody you have more room if not you have less room. I would worry about wheelbase cause I would just follow the body line of the car and place the front subframe where it needs to be to fit the front wheel in the existing front wheel hole in body. So figure out what your track width needs to be. I would start there because thats gunna dictate the subframe and obviously angle kit. Motor isnt an issue for me since I mount all my engines off motor plates

thanks for the kind words!

It’s a table I designed and built myself. I couldn’t afford anything on the market so I just decided to make it myself. I saved a bunch of money

That would be rad. I think the biggest downfall of classic car suspension is the front geometry. I even heard a rumor engineers actually made them poor on purpose to slow the cars down supposedly

That’s a great question and wish I could answer it myself. I’ve never saw a E9x AWD subframe and didn’t even know it was steel. If the pickup up points of the rack and LCAs are the same I don’t see why not but I doubt the rack location is the same due to the diff but could be wrong

@@masonthedriver if the rack brace is different just put a tube across it and add the rack tabs here in oz i have a e90 with a turbo ford barra in it like adam lz mustang engine cheers glenn

Hey Glenn, thanks for the info. I am super interested in hearing more about this. Oh ya totally I dont mind cutting stuff up and adding braces. But I am asking about the location of the rack. Because I am assuming its moved due to the front diff. I have zero experience with a AWD E9x subframe and never even seen one. I dont follow Adam LZ so I am also not familiar with it. Do you got a vid of your setup? Id love to see it. If you dont film one and send me the link

Thank you! Its a combination of Mild steel DOM and regular Mild steel. This is not a car for FD. Unfortunately FD does not allow tube chassis in the series but hope they do in the future. But as far as the FD rules they state that no matter what material you use it can be no thinner than 095 wall and minimum 1.5in

They are super rad! I wanted one for so long and finally got my hands on one. Its gunna sound gnarly in a drift car

thanks dude!

Thanks Dude!

I agree to a certain extent. If i had more time and a film guy it would take alot of the work off me but I might be able to make a happy medium. Thanks for the suggestions

Me too! More to come!

Throooootllllleee Boooooddddyyyy :)

DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY COMMENT IS NO GOOD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry I agree the holley sniper is no good. I bought one and installed it. It fired right up on first start but over a 3 week period it ran worse and worse tell it basically wouldn't run. I would have to reset the holley sniper to get it to start running again and it would always slowly self learn to basically not run. Maybe the holley sniper 2 is better but not worth the risk of spending that much money for a clump of useless metal.

Push rods :)