My (green white) wire to fuel Pump. Pin 87 is grounded. Definitely explains my random fuel pump failure. I put the test clamp on the positive post and needle in pin 87. Got a good bright light. Now the dreaded carpet removal.

Watching and Following along in this series for boredom and I found future problems. Definitely worth the watch.

Good work! when the dash meters suddenly stop working, shall we just check the instrument cluster fuse?

Love seeing this much detail. Have you considered or performed some sort of bottom end reconditioning by dropping the pan and replacing connecting rod/crank bearings without removing the engine? I've had the idea of doing it for a while but wasn't sure if it was a common thought. Recently had my catalytic converter replaced and welded on a flange at the front so i can remove the exhaust headers or downpipes without removing the whole thing or having to cut it out if needed.

I hope to not need to do this work on mine, but I appreciate the thorough coverage just in case!

I did mine but I don’t believe you actually need to block off the the area. Only because you looking for more airflow into the heads. So more air will be improvement for power. Just think about it for now. But I would get the intake manifold from a 5.2 less work.

A drop of RTV at the mating points between timing Cover/Block where timing cover seats is crucial, if you dont, Oil leak is absolutle

Спасибо!!!

Same boat here. Paid for timing job. "Mechanic" then blamed it on the oil filter, Blamed it on the pcv valve, blamed it on the oil filter again.

What voltage regulators did you use jeep specific or just generic one ?

Dealing with a p0172 currently it’s a new motor and and all got a couple thousand miles on it did a lot more work to the truck over the last year but this check engine light has stayed with me the whole time never got around to fixing it trying to research it

I had this same problem on my 2008 jeep commander sport 4x4 it was the starter wire clip was not making a good connection it would come loose. Jeep didn't make this wire long enough it would work loose and fall off and leave you stranded so I extended the flat clip connector wire about 3 to 4 inches of wire to give plenty of slack to move side to side it fixed my problem. I had some extra wire and male and female flat connector clips just plug in connectors without cutting into the original wiring connector clips this is the wiring that connects to the starter. Hopefully this will help someone having this problems.

Thanks Loki this really helped me. I have a 2001 Cherokee XJ several years ago I bought a replacement actuator from amazon and put it away knowing I'd probably need it. I didn't need to remove anything to take the actuator out except pulling the carpet back a little. The actuator had three screws with 8mm hex head. I used a 1/4 " drive ratchet with 8mm socket that fit in the small working space. Before installing the new actuator, I plugged it into the wiring harness turned on the key all the way, turned the dial knob back and forth, I put the knob Stright up in the neutral position then slipped the actuator over the diverter stem, I also had the diverter stem halfway between hot and cold. It works like it's supposed to. A few days ago, I flushed out the heater core so now I should be able to ride around in the winter with the window down and the Heater on. Thank you. Btw, my diverter / flapper did get Stuck while the actuator was disconnected, you can slip an adjustable wrench over the flat spot on the diverter stem to unstick it (gently) also if for some reason you have the heater fan on while testing the diverter it will stick into position due to the vacuum.

Your mods will not show any improvement. The pan is only 1 1/2" away from the mouth od the port runner. You need to trim the runners all the way back until they are even with the adjoining runner.

Worked like a charm. Had to tow it first but figured it out quickly after because of you. Thank you

Thank you, I've been looking for a vid just like this. I'm going to do the adjustable timing set on my 96 5.2

I think there are companies that reprogram your skim halo to disable/disarm your PCM for reasonable.

Mine still wont let me start my car

My favorite 318 engine along with the LA is the Magnum too they should make around 400 plus horsepower with better internal parts for a reasonable price

Where i live i can't find power steering fluid. You mentioned about ATF. Would any multi-vehicle ATF work (motul, havoline, mobil... for instance) or do i have to use ATF+4 specifically (like Valvoline ATF+4 fully synthetic)? Thanks

Very well explained and the best video i could find on the topic. Thank you! You just earned a subscriber. Keep up the good work!

Great video and great job. Do you have a part number or link for the fitting shown at 10:06? Thank you

how do you get the key hole out though. im finding it impossible

Why do you want to reduce the plenum volume?

do you put any backing in the space?

how many vehicle do you own? i still got the 98 XJ i never gong to get rid of it but as you go through your videos you have uncanny knack of doing great fabrication, slow and methodical and putting metal where the factory should of done, but you do it better i do appreciate your videos because i can always go back and review them at a later time when im in need of them, is it possible you could do a back bumper fab with a movable rack so its able to get at the back door with a tire at the back? i really need one lol. thank you for your videos and i see your channel is growing good on you!!

where did you get the exhaust? bc for my 98 jeep grand cherokee ive had a heck of time finding exhaust for especially duels

I think if a guy was creative you can make a 3 two barrel set up with that manifold somebody out there let me know before I try it

First of all, your automatic \6 didn't come from the factory with a pilot bushing for the input shaft of a gearbox. Also, many of the automatics didn't have a hole long enough to accept the entire input shaft. The '68 D300 pictured behind me originally had the \6, and '68 was the last year for the 10-spline, hydraulic clutch in the 100 to 300 trucks. I believe you are using the hydraulic flywheel that has a stand off to clear the hydraulic bell housing that has both the \6 and 318 bolt patterns. If so, that bell probably won't work for your app. I would pull the other eng/trans that you have and see if that would be a better fit. The throw-out bearing for the hydraulic clutch is also a larger diameter, so actually, nothing from the hydraulic setup will swap over to mech clutch setup.

3 freezer plugs as you Americans call them. Later 1966-67 on have 5 Here in Australia they do anyway 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I know whats wrong with it. Its a slant 6.

A problem with the leaking plenum is the bolts are too long and don't hold it tight enough. Shorter bolts will fix a leaking plenum plate along with a new gasket. Please let us know how your engine responds to the modifications.

Very well explained and very detailed. Im subscribing! Keep the videos coming on the 98 jeep.

Good video

Mine was the key security switch behind the key cylinder. Black box with a harness. It would go into limp mode as well with D saying 3 in the dash.

I greatly appreciate your videos on the 98 ZJ with the 5.2. I’m an overthinker when it comes to fixing things and I think you explain things extremely clearly. Makes me more confident working on my 96 ZJ. Thank you!

Great video man and good job explaining everything.

I gotta wonder if the keg shape was intended to circulate the air flow in some way? Why else would they even include all that extra volume?

Thank you. I needed this to find all my turn signal fuses and relays.

That was the best video I've watched since trying to fix my 2000 Dodge I learned so much shit I still gotta do thanks so much video is def one to watch

For those who find this late, the non-start with "TRANS OVER TEMP" displayed is typically caused by a loose starter connector. Locate the starter and disconnect the yellow positive wire from it. It's a spade connector that comes loose or corroded over time. Clean, tighten or upgrade to a better connector to fix.

I wish you were in NC. I have a friend that needs a real mechanic

97 has

Great vid. This will help me with replacing the entire dash on my 75 D100.

❤🎉

do you rebuild the viscious coupler?

my 72 b100 had this issue and it turned out to be the actual light switch that turns the headlights on. I noticed when turning it to dim that the lights would flash on for just a second. Changed it and the lights worked again. Great video though. made sense of a lot of things, thanks.

Thanks for the video. It should help a lot to figure out why my instrument cluster lights don’t work. I’ve looked at multiple resources and they are contradictory as to what light bulbs the cluster takes. Could you point me in the right direction please?

What would be next step if it also starts clattering in valve train? Can the sensor cause that also?

Don't have the chip Lost the key