Hey! Thanks for watching my video. This really depends on how you structure your training. When it comes to behavior modification (which is what this video is about) it's important to look at how a dog does when they are engaged in the training in the presence of a trigger (in this case the cat), and what the dog does when given a "break" in training. How a dog behaves during the break when food stops becomes information/ feedback. Does the dog get a drink of water, hang out, or grab a chewy? Or do they immediately go back to fixating on the cat (or whatever other distraction you might be working with)? If the only thing that is holding a dog back from reacting to the trigger is food, you probably need to reassess your training set up. With the right structure and progression you can help dogs learn to regulate emotional responses to environmental triggers. A dog that is no longer impulsively or compulsively reacting to the cat, to sounds, to movement, to other dogs.. I agree that most people do not know how to use food within a well structured training plan, and so they struggle to create this type of carry over. This is also why I teach online classes about this topic at legendsdogtraining.com/online-classes Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment! Best, Alyssa Rose, CPDT-KA

Hi! Thanks for watching and for your comment. A few more tips. 1. Make sure your cat feels safe! Make sure that your cat is as calm and comfortable as you can make him/ her. The crate should be in line of sight, but it could be 15, 20 or 25 feet (if your home space allows), give your cat some tasty treats. 2. Short sessions! Do 5-10 minutes of training with your dog once or twice each day. It's helpful to time these training sessions up with breakfast or dinner so that they become routine. 3. Train, Don't "Test." It's not at all helpful to walk your dog in close proximity to the crate to "see" what they'll do. 4. It's a Process. These changes do not come about over night. Some people try to measure progress in days or weeks, but progress in behavior modification is better measured over 2-4 months. Be patient. If you need more help you can go to my website: www.legendsdogtraining.com My online Mat Work class is six weeks in length and is the best foundation for a dog that is hyperactive with the resident cat. Good luck in training! - Alyssa Rose

@legendsdogtraining thank u. I think my dog is jealous it's been dsy 2 that I put her in a cage for the night. She knows the cat is here in the back, she scratches at the crate floor and her pillow and I don't know it's my fiancé's dog, and he can't take care of her in the meanwhile. So I'm stuck with a jealous dog. Anyways I will continue the trainings. And time will tell. My first time dogsitting or fostering a big heavy pitbull. Thank you so much! 💝

It's important to do a lot of proactive training. This is usually 5-10 minutes of training 1-2x's/day. During this time I would be systematically building duration, distraction and distance. The next step is having them sleep in the crate at times where they are predictably tired (like at night, or after you've done training + a walk or "watch the world" session). By doing these things dogs are going to associate the crate with rest and relaxation and offer calm behavior inside the crate. If your dog is going to the crate and barking - this could be a sign that the dog needs more proactive training sessions vs. only reinforcing desirable behavior when it occurs on its own or when the dog is being redirected from undesirable behavior. In this case dogs can easily learn that it's the "squeaky wheel that gets the oil." It's best if training is a natural and predictable part of your routine. Hope this is helpful. - Alyssa Rose www.legendsdogtraining.com

Hey! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It's a clicker. Clickers are also referred to as "markers" as they "mark" the moment a dog does something we like and predicts reinforcement. The word "yes" or the word "good" can also be used as a marker. There's pros and cons to both. The reason trainers will sometimes use clickers over verbal markers (like "yes" or "good" ) is because the novelty of the click makes for a stronger association. People are more likely to be consistent about pairing the sound of the click with food. That being said, I wouldn't go out and buy a clicker yet. One of the benefits of learning how to be more mindful about how you use words like "yes" or "good" is that it can create a positive ripple effect on verbal cues like your dog's name or the word "come." In the last 6-7 years I've focused mostly on a few key words and the use use of gestures, hand signals and body language to improve connection and communication. Thanks again for watching and if you are ever interested in more formal training you can check out my training classes at www.legendsdogtraining.com My "Mat Work" class would be the one that is most applicable to training calm behavior with other resident animals like dogs or cats. Best, Alyssa Rose

Thanks for watching and for your very kind comment. Hopefully things are continuing to move in the right direction. If at any point you need more formal guidance I offer online classes at legendsdogtraining.com The "Mat Work" class is the best starting point. If you sign up I have information about how to create an effective training set up for two dogs so that they are learning how to be calm and patient when the other dog is receiving attention in training. There's a lot of positive, social learning that can occur with the right set up. Thanks again for watching. Best, Alyssa Rose

Hi! So glad you found this video helpful. Two ways that you can start to increase time. 1. Planned nap time. Choose a time during the day where your dog is normally ready to nap. Sit next to him and read a book. If your dog is doing well with 1minute during training - you can sit and read next to him for 5 minutes. Increase in 5 minute intervals as long as he seems comfortable. 2. Place the crate next to your bed, and start having him sleep in there over night. The goal is to have him associate the crate with rest and relaxation. If he becomes distressed: barking, scratching or biting at the gate, or stress whining for more than 1-2 minutes -- go back to an easier variation of the training in future sessions. Sometimes this means going back to the beginning training steps for 2-3 days. It's better to build positive associations in the days and weeks before the flight than to try and push the training too fast and associate it with stress, frustration or anxiety. If you ever have any other behavioral training needs - my website is legendsdogtraining.com I teach online classes you and your dog might enjoy. Best, Alyssa Rose

Relatable

So glad you found it helpful. Thank you for taking the time to write this kind message, very much appreciated.

Hi, thanks for taking the time to write in. Adolescents and early adulthood is a time where we can see stress responses peak. Most people reach out for training regarding fearful or anxious behavior when their dog is around 1-2 years of age. Most people try to take fear and anxiety head on by exposing their dog to the things that trigger them with the idea that this will "desensitize" them to the trigger. In many cases the opposite happens - the dog becomes more sensitized. Instead, the focus right now should be to build a calm connection with your dog by working within his comfort zone and building trust and communication. This is what I was doing in the video with Bruce Bruce. Ultimately the skills he was learning could be incorporated into situations that triggered fear and anxiety. This approach is the most effective way to get to the root of the problem and really see the best in your dog rise to the surface. If you're curious to learn more I have online classes. My website is legendsdogtraining.com Mat Work would be the best starting point. Thanks again for writing in and let me know if you have questions. Best, Alyssa Rose, CPDT-KA

The key is to create a safe environment with barriers. I usually encourage double barriers in case a gate or a door is left open accidentally, there's always a back up. This type of training can take anywhere from 1-6 months depending on the temperament of the dog. The key is to work at your dog's pace. Plan for 1 or 2 10 minute sessions each day. Use breakfast and dinner if possible (it's helpful if both dog and cat are on a good feeding schedule). Use a harness and leash and focus on classical conditioning at the beginning: feeding your dog in the presence of the cat without worrying about having your dog offer behaviors (that can come later). Avoid having your dog approach to sniff the cat, this usually makes things worse. If you need more guidance you can always consider signing up for my Mat Work training. This is the foundation that the dog in this video had before attempting to do any training with the cat. If you're interested in checking it out, here's a link to my classes: legendsdogtraining.com/online-classes/ Best, Alyssa Rose

That's why I'm here as well😂