That first nuc nearest to the camera up you split looked to have far less bees compared to it's neighbour coming up to the top. So with that queencell being capped I think you were too late and lost original queen to a swarm. Heard it's better to requeen with swarm cells rather than emergency queencells as they will feed older larvae so the new queen will not have been fed as much royal jelly so could be a lacking in quality.

Seems corgettes are a good source of both nectar and pollen

The best thing to do when you take out a split is to put all the frames together in the original hive and put the foundation or empty comb frames that you are putting into the nuc on the sides (6:10) is where I'm talking about.

To answer you queen question. You will only get out what you put in

To answer your question about the queen excluder, national bee hives are bottom bee space. This means that if you put the queen excluder on with the flush side against the brood box, you have no bee space between the brood box and the queen excluder but you make a two bee space between the queen excluder and the super that they will fill with brace comb. The way I put the queen excluder on is with the bee space against the brood box, this is because the national hives are bottom bee space. Putting the queen excluder on this way means there is a bee space between the brood box and the queen excluder but there is also a bee space between the queen excluder and the super as the super is bottom bee space.

My BMH Queen died in the cage as well. The cage exit is split into two and the Queen can only exit through the larger side. The bees ate the fondant on the smaller side then lost interest, leaving her stuck in the cage.

Ps who makes your bee suit ?

Hi, love your videos, I’m a new beekeeper so it’s great to see your experience. Thankyou

Nice one Thanks again

look up climate engineering or weather modification, look at all the clouds cover its going on since last year and longer, watch it will not change, start asking WHY

What I do is leave a bucket with two hive tools in water bleach and soda crystals under hive stand at all my sites so i don’t forget them

That’s a very secure place to keep bees, why are you expecting a bear attack?.

Fill up both syrup compartments (unless you’re back in a day or so )they will expand quicker and be ready for winter. Don’t rely on the weather.

Hopefully the summer is a lot better.

Would be interesting to know if the bees see the fence as a solid structure or fly through the spaces in the fence. I know that the bees see the tennis court yard fence as a solid structure and fly over the top instead of flying through the holes in the fence. Looks like a great apiary, hopefully you will be able to get to it during the winter 🐝

Nice one Thanks

I'm glad you feed the bees as it takes them several hours to seven days to reorient to their new location. Great Video 🐝

A great space for an apiary - with a pond too!

Undertaker bees cleaning house.

That's a great space for an apiary

Great Video, New Sub here from NZ, thanks for sharing

if i were to get 1 beehive on 1/3 of an acre would i still be able to cut my grass without a bee suit on?

All the smaller hives should have thin syrup on along with pollen patties. A well fed hive has a higher acceptance rate. For whatever reason a staved hive is more likely to reject. How is the pollen in the frames? Without pollen coming in the nurse bees will eat her eggs as fast as she lays them. You likely have an inertial queen, cull her. Also the hive at 5:00 has to low of a population for a 10 frame super. Hope this helps.

1. You need to get those bees inside greenhouses. They can get in, but they can't get out, because they don't remember the exact path, they follow the sun and magnetic forces, which means not only they can't bring any pollen and nectar home, once they get stuck on the top of the greenhouse, the scout bees (which are the ones that point the majority of worker bees into your income and actually find the flowers in the greenhouse) also can't tell the main workforce; to go work the strawberries/whatever you want to pollinate. 2. you need some kind of ventilation cover for transport. It can be dirt cheap, but it has to prevent the bees to escape during transport and allow them to breath. Any kind of frame will work, an old cupboard or whatever for a frame, and some mesh to give them a chance to cool down/get air, the mesh needs to be small enough so that the bees cant get their heads through the holes (if the holes are too big, worker bees can get their heads stuck in the mesh and prevent airflow to the whole colony) and you're good to go, so like a pound per cover for mesh*(number of hives you can get in your pickup). Good job on thinking ahead with feeding, those hives are bringing value in staying strong and pollinating the crops ASAP, they are bringing consistent value to the greenhouse owner when they are only fed sucrose, you want to give them energy, without supplementing pollen which they should get from collecting pollen and subsequently pollinating the crops. You want to make pollen intake the bottleneck for your bees when you're on a pollinating job. By pollinating the flowers as they start to flower, they lower the cost for your farmer and increase their income, as the gathering labor gets spread out as much as possible(less laborers spread across a longer period of time bring lower costs to the farmer with lower risks for the workers), as you very well know as a tractor operator. You have a lot more negotiating power as a pollinator contractor than you have as a machinery operator, everyone wants to run a tractor, not many people want to get a bee-sting or 10 a day.

I would leave a cage in for three or four days and if the bees haven't eaten the fondant to let her out then I would let her out anyway.

The accepted queen is possibly not laying because there is not a nectar flow, feeding this colony may actually change that.

I've experienced similar, I had 5 queens from bmh one nuc died and didn't release the queen same as you 2 were accepted and 2 just vanished so I had to unite them. I'm going to be making splits but really contemplating letting them rear there own queen as it starts getting expensive.

Get someone to mentor you ,it is like the blind leading the blind

Your channel is not properly optimized and videos are not SEO properly which is why your videos are not getting enough views. Due to which your number of subscribers is very less

Was that the queen in the bottom left of the nuke at 7:48?

Hey just letting you know that at 1:00 I couldn't hear what you were saying because you were talking behind the microphone. You could get a clip-on microphone as Black Mountain Honey uses to solve this problem. Good luck with the 6 nucs and looking forward to seeing if the hopeless queen less hive accepts BMH queen 🐝

Based on what I could see in the video, you pulled 2 frames of stores with no bees on and a frame of brood with not many bees. My suggestion would be to condense the bees into a nuc with the frames of brood and stores. This will give the bees less space to defend and keep them warm. I enjoyed the video 🐝

So sorry for your Bee Family loss x2 ! Hope your stung finger has recovered. Xx❤

A suggestion to get the bees up into the supers, take the 20 drawn super frames from the 2 drawn supers. Place 2-3 drawn super frames into the middle of a super with foundation frames on the edge. This will encourage the bees to move up onto the drawn super frames, just remember that this could spread diseases so please be careful 🐝

Glenn has the taste for it now 😂

You might want to consider getting some cheap wireless lavalier mics if you're have issues with wind noise. I got a pair for less than £30 and they've made a massive difference to my videos.

Nice video, thanks for sharing!

Where does the sugar come from ? Is it especially for bees, and is it organic? How long do bees live, is it several seasons or more? Another interesting and educational video, thank you, Ben and Team xx

Hi How can I buy some of your Honey from ?

7:36 I get what you’re saying but the most markets work like that? I’ve wind turbines, I’ve no say in the energy prices. They are dictated to me by the buyer. My choice is sell or not. The issue that farmers have is that they don’t have an option to sell. You can’t just decide the price isn’t right when you’re sitting with your harvest. To me part of the solution is farmers forming small cooperatives with each other and directly marketing their produce to the end consumers, cut out the middlemen that are scooping up all the profits. Great view by the way!

Farming content 😁 #TeamNewHolland!

Lovely seeing our beautiful South Downs in the sunshine for a change. Didn't realise that the supermarkets could call it "British " when it's only packed here. Or that they dictate the pricing...outrageous! Thank you Ben for bringing us so.e sunshine on another wet Monday❤

It is crazy how much control the supermarkets have over the country's food supply. It is a mystery to me who controls the food system. Does anyone know how much food will be produced in the UK? Or is it just handed to the supermarket's system to manage and ensure we are all fed? What happens in a crisis?

Love the farming content Ben, plus a good old rant 😂 Your videos are certainly getting better, more of the same please 👍🏻

Just did our first March look in. Fondant being taken with enough to keep them going. Have added a super with just a few initial frames on the stronger colony- may add some syrup in a week’s time and see if any wax gets drawn. Nice video and interesting to see your thinking.

Great video Ben . Look forward to following you on your journey.

That's the first crown board I've seen cracked this year. Good luck with the experiment. I'm sticking with fondant, for now.

Great quality Ben 👌

The spacing between frames in some of your hives is a mess. You have to fix that. In the first hive you show, there is a mix of Hoffman and straight sidebars and there is not enough space between some of the frames to draw full depth worker cells on both sides while maintaining enough space between the frames for access. In the second hive, some of the frames are too far apart and the bees will draw cells that are too long for the queen to lay into.