They are exactly 32' long. Amd yes, I use the upstairs for parts room. It's been quite a few years but it holds up great. I take measurements to make sure it's not sagging every year and it's still holding strong. Not a whole lot of bounce in the floor either.

that might not be a great idea in practice. If the cut lumber sits around they long there's a very high probability it's going to end up warped.

I am inclined to agree with you. The "W" or "M" design transmits the force of each successive diagonal member to the next one in line. The design shown does not do this. Train bridges are made from steel, not pine. That's why they can function without absolute stress on a tiny fastener. Take a look at how many hot rivets are used in train bridges. There are likely 10x as many rivets as you would use screws in wood, and often they are securing multiple layers of plate steel like leaf springs. I used to work at a truss factory and later- a railroad for a lot of years. The design doesn't lend itself well to substitution of materials. This is a very astute observation, and I am glad you posted it, as it will affect my decisions going forward on a similar project.

I actually got a engineered design that utilized the Warren style truss with a box in the middle. This is the weakest truss you can use. I researched train bridges and they utilized Pratt or Warren style. Basically the closer you get to a 45 degree angle the stronger the truss will be. Then I got rid of the box which is by far the weakest point in the engineering of manufactured trusses. The engineered trusses each box is like 3.5ft wide and the angles are like 27 degrees or something. They use minimal. Very minimal. I overbuilt these for sure but wanted to make sure they would last. I figure if they make train bridges built this way then this truss should work totally fine. There's a few books I read about trusses. One is called design of building trusses. If you really wanna get into it read that. I couldn't type as much Info in here as there needs to be if you wanna talk the math . But you get the jist...

Nails have more shear strength than screws, and screws have more pull out strength. They used nails on the gusset plates, so I believe their methods are good.

Yes! People think that you can't do anything on your own now a days. Their still standing. No sag. I use that garage everyday. Someone put the peaches in the can

@tylercox4216 thanks for the reply. Awesome work. Your video is an inspiration!! I'm glad you enjoy the fruit of your labor! I've heard stories about manufactured trusses falling apart while racking them.....those look like they would hold up to a hurricane.

Thank you

I made another video, shows my math and reason

Yeah we were right there weather wise on the limit of chaulking. It did hold. We made a few test boards to make sure the glue would be fine at that temp. Tightbond can go to 32°f

100%. This would not only fail here in Canada but it would have to be replaced. Lumber must be “on end” and screws are not allowed (10d 3.5” clear shank nails) . Would also require truss plates.

Putting glue on only one component, should have done both sides of joining surfaces.

@@worldsstongeststrains983 Also in Canada and was thinking of doing my own open floor joists... What do you mean by "on end"?

@@worldsstongeststrains983 They used glued and nailed plywood gussets instead, does the Code require metal truss plates?

Great! I use the garage everyday. I store alot of parts up there. I check the height every year to see if there's sag and there isn't.

2x4

It happens, I typically stay away from the edge

Your such an idiot.....

It took a totaly of 40 hours. What the video doesn't show is me alone pre cutting everything. Also when it was time to assemble there was quite a few of them just me amd my wife made. Considering I dont make 8k a week and the materials at this rime was only 1600, I'd say I did save alot. I didn't have to pay anyone. Everyone was happy to help out. Good friends and family go a long way

The span is 32ft outside of walls. 6 inch walls. The floor does bounce a lil. But idk if you've walked in houses with store bought trusses but they also bounce. It's very minimal but if your standing still amd someone walks by you Caan feel it

If you see factory built trusses, they only have nail plates to hold the truss together. My screws were more or less to hold the boards in place while the glue cures. I don't think the screws are moving enough to sheer especially after the gussest were in place and glued together. I made a small joint with gussets. Tried to break it apart and the wood broke in many places but the joint wouldn't let go. I believe the gusses and glue joints are the strength

No sag! I've measured a few times out of curiosity

They aren't as strong as glue and wood. If you don't belive me, price together two pieces of wood and do two the way I did they try to disassemble them. You will find my way is much more stronger. Altho more time it's worth it. As far as cost it actually would cost more to buy the tac plates then the amount of plywood glue and screws