Hello Amp Mechanic! The Digitech Trio Plus has a design error. The clean input from guitar is too weak, about 7 decibels more is needed for the pedal to hear the guitar. Those who bought the pedal need to buy a separate clean boost pedal just to make it work. Seems like a minor modification could solve the problem. Maybe it would be good content for your channel. Subscribed. Thanks!
@amp_mechanic5 күн бұрын
If one comes across my bench, I'll definitely look into it. Thanks!
@13aphomet5 күн бұрын
Awesome man, congrats. Do you notice a difference in sound between the xvive chip and the original?
@amp_mechanic5 күн бұрын
No difference that I can hear, still sounds great.
@13aphomet5 күн бұрын
@amp_mechanic I recently got the reissue, and the first 400 or so had the old chips in them.. Couldn't find a comparison tho. Thanks!!
@studioruangsvara6 күн бұрын
5:12 Hey man, may i know whose song is this? Sounds like Bilmuri and Neck Deep
@amp_mechanic6 күн бұрын
It's just something I created with AI prompts.
@studioruangsvara6 күн бұрын
@amp_mechanic oh wow. Great result!
@Farmerknowsbest8 күн бұрын
i got one of these on the sale yesterday. This has been the best video on arcdroid I've seen to date. Thanks for the tips!
@FrancisoDoncona16 күн бұрын
So I need to buy a jewelry drill set.
@richardmcgruder543718 күн бұрын
Not to mention how much time it took to develope this amp his amps cause he wanted it just right from all the promotional vids. He did i almost bought one however im glad i didnt at least till 5hey fix these issues😢
@richardmcgruder543718 күн бұрын
I wonder what mark tremonti opinion is now the noise is a issue after he talked a big game on his amp mt 100 🤨🤔
@familyaustin612625 күн бұрын
is the probe you used wired into the control board? or is it just 5v?
@amp_mechanic24 күн бұрын
It's been a while but, I believe there were 3 wires. And yes it is wired to the probe connection on the control board.
@bennyvrads26 күн бұрын
How do I adjust the bias, when I put in new tubes?
@amp_mechanic25 күн бұрын
Either swap the bias resistor ( you can use a decade box to determine the correct value or just swap until you find the right one) or, like I did with this one, run a couple wires to a pot you mount on the chassis with a resistor to make ad adjustable bias. As far as the measurement and calculation, "Uncle Doug" has several good videos on calculating bias. It explains it better than I could here.
@bennyvrads24 күн бұрын
@@amp_mechanic Yes, thank you He poped up today. That was helpful.
@bennyvrads26 күн бұрын
But you didn't check the bias...? How do you do that on theseold ones? The reissue has an ajustable pot but this doesn't. This is the modal I've got.
@jbontheair1030Ай бұрын
It’s a little vague when you say put it “there “ With your hand in the way.
@amp_mechanic25 күн бұрын
Well, there's only 2 wires on each side. One runs to the tip contact, the other to the sleeve. Put one probe on each.
@manofmatter.yvezchannelАй бұрын
My bose L1 power not working not turning On...
@sarasal99Ай бұрын
Hi Thanks for your video! Does it matter if its a solid state amp, like the fender Deluxe 90 , which has a spring reverb tank? The reverb just sort of stopped working normally, (intermittant now and seemingly not full range). If its a bad tank whats the best replacement for this amp. and 2,3,4 spring? Thanks for your help
@amp_mechanicАй бұрын
Still applies to checking the tank. Just the driver and recovery stage in the amp will be done with an opamp or some kind of transistor. Good luck.
@vitessepilot74342 ай бұрын
Thank you - another amp saved 🙂. One pickup is open circuit
@AlessandroVerona-mw7op2 ай бұрын
great suggestion about the resistors, that´s the only thing i miss checking on the one I have on the bench, very similar issue, It has been serviced by some other technician in the past and it was already visible that the board suffered heat damage and repairs. I've got a few blues deluxe on the bench and another common faliure point is the FET that does the channel switching. Overall they all seem to have major issues over time. Compared to older Fenders and other amps these are a nightmare to service and modify.
@andreriant85132 ай бұрын
Stop saying 120 hertz please 🤦♂️
@peterepp68302 ай бұрын
I recently broke the plastic handle on my base case and am wondering if there is anywhere I can buy one? Thank you, Peter.
@denniskramer97882 ай бұрын
Great stuff. Does your divider have input/output isolation? i.e. optical, A/D etc.
@amp_mechanic2 ай бұрын
No it does not. I can't see that it would be any benefit in this situation but I could be proven wrong.
@denniskramer97882 ай бұрын
I can't either, if it works don't muck with it. But my comment is based on the group doing plasma cnc with a linux cpu. A/D in and out makes sure a noisy ground line frompermeating the controls. We'll see.
@craigslist60272 ай бұрын
your opinion,,,who the fuvk are you
@craigslist60272 ай бұрын
why make it so complicated....you could just show what to do.....duh
@buenasideas8723 ай бұрын
hello. i have a question. What is the best parameters in the cutt settings in the different thinksness of steel?
@amp_mechanic2 ай бұрын
I have a video on finding your best cut parameters. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2K8Z3yni9Saarc
@Coconutpelau3 ай бұрын
Anyone knows where I can get schematic for Rokit 8-2? I have a pair with components damaged so badly they cannot be identified even with good light and 8x magnification.
@DjSmoothNY4 ай бұрын
I just returned one for an exchange to guitar center. It was an open box that worked for 2 months then during normal use made aloud bang sound and died. Weirdest thing ever but guitar center exchanged it no problem for a brand new one. I wonder now if the CP8 line has issues. I have 2 CP12’s and those worked fine at my last gig. So we’ll see. Hope u were able to resolve ur issue.
@amp_mechanic2 ай бұрын
I returned them for a full refund. It just seems odd to go through 3 that all had the same issue to varying degrees.
@TheMajor1804 ай бұрын
Great vid! I have the blue RP6 G2s. The logo stopped glowing just after the warranty expired. I purchased the replacement LED light but still no ball. Any ideas mate?
@amp_mechanic2 ай бұрын
It would be in the power supply line on the board. LED's would likely be a 3 or 5V line. Check for voltage where the wires connect to the board. If you see voltage either wiring or likely the negative has an issue. If no voltage, work your way backwards through the components until you find it. That last component will be the failure point or just need to be cleaned up. Hopefully that makes sense.
@TheMajor1802 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic thanks mate
@sabremh4 ай бұрын
I have a musicman amp with weak reverb. The amp has an accutronics tank, and both transducers measure about 175 ohms. What else could it be?
@amp_mechanic4 ай бұрын
Is it tube driver and recovery? or opamp? A weak recovery tube is a common problem. Check wire on the tank going to rca jack and the little connectors going to the coil on each end. Check the RCA cable going to the amp. If all that is good, you need to figure out if the driver or recovery stage has the weak signal. If you give the tank a wiggle with the reverb turned up, there should be a fairly large splash of sound. If it's low then likely the recovery stage has a problem.
@sabremh4 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic the wires and springs in the tank look good. I did the ohm check from the end of the rca cables. The amp has two EL84 output tubes plus one 12ax7 so I'm thinking there is an opamp inside the chassis. If I take the tank out of the amp and move the springs with my hand, the reverb sounds strong. But with the guitar plugged in and the reverb on 10 it is barely audible.
@kennethstammers58014 ай бұрын
This was a surprise and nice to see someone working on a Bose ! and so yes I have a question ?. Bose are not easy to get hold of and seem to hide any people to actually talk to ( it's all drop down boxes crap ) so dare I ask where would you get a complete board of which I think there are two as my Bose L1 8 like to switch off when it feels like it and might run for an hour or maybe five minutes and Bose checked it said ( nothing wrong ? ) so just in case it's viable it makes sense to change both boards or whichever controls the overload sensor ( which is what a layman would assume is the dodgy part ) . I have seen lots of complaints from Bose users with this problem and I love my Bose BUT ! it's serous problem in the middle of a gig ! . Thanks for the Vid it's clear calm and concise soooo rare these days . Regards Kenny. ps Looks like you be the next big thing for Bose with your own Bose repair shop judging by the comments .
@djfreshandeverythingchanne54294 ай бұрын
Hello. Can you fix my T1 tonematch mixer? Its operating on it's own and I can't control it. Please help. Thanks!
@KevinLeonard-j4o4 ай бұрын
Love the video. Can you please tell me what plasma set up that you are using with the arcdroi. The model number would be great . Thanks
@amp_mechanic4 ай бұрын
Everlast Powerplasma 82i
@salg22274 ай бұрын
Does Fusion 360 recognize the Arcdroid as a viable machine? I could not find it in its library. What are you selecting as a machine?
@amp_mechanic4 ай бұрын
The post processor is available on the ArcDroid downloads page. There's plenty of info out there on how to install it. Then you'll have it in your list.
@artytoney20575 ай бұрын
I just bought one of these head , came across a newer at a great deal but of course mine had a terrible hum through effx loop , I took it to a amp tech and hope he can fix but my question is , why in the world does a company like PRS ,who does awesome quality control with their guitars , why they don't correct this issue especially for such a popular high gain amp , it don't make any sense , thanks for great info
@jcschwarb5 ай бұрын
Hey, appreciate this excellent video. Any thoughts on bass and lower tower no sound. Get a ticking sound in lower speakers. All of the power supply boards have a dark coating on D501.
@brownell105 ай бұрын
I've been watching your vids for a few weeks as I research for purchasing an Arcdroid... which I just ordered yesterday (fingers crossed it was the right choice). Detailed/in-depth info is scattered thin and far. I prefer doing my legwork over trial and error (=$), and I've found more good info here than I have in most other places combined. I am forever grateful sir, thank you!
@amp_mechanic5 ай бұрын
Great! Glad it helped.
@armymankr5 ай бұрын
Wow I glad I came across your video! Was considering buying this amp but guess I'll stay away now.
@josephkirk9395 ай бұрын
I own this amp and it's a freaking powerhouse. I have had mine for 2 years and the only issue I've had are with the blue led lights on the clean channel. This is just one video on repair. Go try out the amp and see for yourself. It's great for a lunchbox.
@jeffvanbibber66093 ай бұрын
I would not let that stop you from getting this amp. You're missing out if you do. Imo
@mjtan67876 ай бұрын
I got the new version with the 5881 tubes and the noise seems to be fixed now
@amp_mechanic6 ай бұрын
Good to know.
@JasonGutierrez6 ай бұрын
I just fixed this issue on a friend’s amp. The FX loop hum issue is mainly the design flaw of the ground loop created by the black and red ground wires connected through the circuit boards at both ends of the path to and from the effects loop. Once you remove one of those ground wires (I removed the red one to keep black as ground) the problem is solved. Twisting and cleaning up the heater wire routing should be done as well to further quiet things down and keep those AC wires away from the effects loop signal wires. The shielded leads are unnecessary. Just remove the extra ground wire and cleanup the heater wires and problem solved.
@amp_mechanic6 ай бұрын
This one did need the shielded otherwise I wouldn't have used it. Some are worse than others. Good you got it fixed for him.
@JasonGutierrez6 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic did you try it with the cover back on the amp before adding the shielded wiring?
@RobTheMisfit6 ай бұрын
I know this is an old video but i figured its worth a shot to ask. I have this same amp and i was playing today, and it sounded like i was getting a connection issue in the cables before the amp went silent. I turned it off and unplugged/replugged the cables to the input and loop and made sure they were all the way in. I fired up the amp and eveything sounded fine, volume and bass are normal. I switch standby on before switching off power and its hissing loud through the speaker. It plays fine with no unwanted noise until you switch it to standby. If you turn power on with standby switched on, there is no hissing. Only hisses after playing then going to standby. Any idea what that is? I actually recently bought the amp from an old friend of the family who does repairs but he is currently on vacation and i dont wanna bug him until he gets back.
@amp_mechanic6 ай бұрын
There may be a ground off or a bleed resistor that has failed. There are so many things that can fail on these amps it's hard to say without going through and diagnosing it. The standby disconnects the high voltage so you need to figure out where or what is bleeding through or not drain the circuit down. Go through the schematic and check all supply nodes.
@niclasreichwein60136 ай бұрын
How you you Get the DXF file from the ArcDroid? I can only get a code from my trace
@amp_mechanic6 ай бұрын
I think it's long press on the file on the Droid. Or once you get it on your computer use something like G code ripper.
@Amploft6 ай бұрын
Thanks
@mlonghammer83887 ай бұрын
Those Chinese children were soldering the best they can! How well could you solder when you were 6?
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
oh,well, pardon me....lmao. 😂
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
what kind of probe did you use. I am also thinking of using another model than the one provided
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
I used this one amzn.to/3WFVCdD
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
This is the one i buy too
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
This is the one i buy too
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
This is the one i buy too
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
what size does your control box have? I would like to order one
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
This is the exact one I got amzn.to/3ygTK0C 15.7x11.8X 7.1inch (400x300x180 mm)
@dmw_cutlery7 ай бұрын
thanks a lot :)
@geoffbarber28607 ай бұрын
Unfortunately using the on-boards cathode resistor to set bias can be misleading for the following reasons; Firstly you can't rely on the 1ohm resistor being the correct value. Secondly what your actually measuring across this 1 ohm resistor is anode current plus screen current. The screen current can account for around 5mA of the total current giving you a false reading. Measuring the DC resistance of each primary ( as the author suggests) will give you a far more accurate reading as your only reading anode current at this point.
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
Correct. I think so many companies do it this way because of ease. They also don't want to encourage people to probe the high voltage. And it also gives a bit of buffer for those that always want their bias hotter. My thing is that, either way you do it, you do need the plate voltage to calculate the bias and get repeatable results. Biasing to 65mv means nothing unless you use it to calculate the bias. It will usually be a safe number with these amps but the feel and sound can be wildly different. And on the resistor value, I would say that the value being off isn't that big a deal since you can account for it in your calculation. Or at the very least, that will be a static value you will always be measuring through. But in terms of just going by the 60mv thing, you are correct.
@JerryJanecka7 ай бұрын
Where can I get a replacement B2620 starter key?
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
Find a kubota dealer near you or look online for a replacement key. I'm not sure if the B series key is universal but I suspect it might be. Short of that, a locksmith should be able to make a mold from the cylinder of the ignition switch to have a new key cut. Or replace the whole ignition switch. The new one will have keys.
@aplusatlanta17 ай бұрын
Mine only went up to 54 mV all the way up on the bias is that indicating a problem with the tubes?
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
Likely they are just worn. If they have a lot of hours, time for a new set.
@aplusatlanta17 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic that’s what I’m hoping. Ordered a new set a little while ago. Thanks you
@Elwooddudes7 ай бұрын
My impedance switch broke off the terror bass 500 original model. Struggling to find anyone in the uk to fix it so far!
@amp_mechanic7 ай бұрын
Go around to any of your local guitar shops, at least one of them will need to have someone they use that can replace a switch. Actually any electronics place for tv's stereos, cell phone repairs would be able to do it. Just a matter of finding someone who will. Good luck.
@Elwooddudes7 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic thanks for the help I appreciate it!
@peterbutler55978 ай бұрын
This was a great help. I got a cheap 700RBii from an online auction but it was almost without sound. The pots were super scratchy but Deoxit did the trick. The pots are almost totally sealed but you can sneak Deoxit in through a tiny slot in the side. Then I reset the bias like you showed. It was a great confidence boost watching how you worked on it. My amp seems to be perfect now - woohoo. Thanks so much!
@amp_mechanic8 ай бұрын
Awesome Peter! Glad it was a help.
@jamescassidy40458 ай бұрын
Hey bro! Just curious is if I could ask you something. Sorry it’s a bit of a long message, but I’m just kind of in a crappy situation, and just looking for some insight/guidance. So, just curious before I get into my issue, did you actually replace a shockmount, and like transfer the capsule to a new shockmount? Just asking because I’m wondering how straight forward it is? Reason I’m asking is, I just got my Lawson, picked it up from the guy, and when I got it home, and took the mic out to show my buddy, I heard something banging around, and thought it was maybe the head basket slightly loose at first, but believe it or not, the capsule was actually flopping around front to back, and side to side with any slight tilt, but when the Mic is standing straight up, the capsule actually manages to sit basically straight. I thought maybe also, the mount, where it screws in was loose, but I opened it up, and what is actually happening is that rubber piece is actually flexing, or at least that’s the point where it’s bending, and the capsule basically droops over, and even hits the inside of the head basket. You can even see on the outside edges of the capsule where it’s been hitting, for probably quite some time, because there’s tiny little scores/dents, but I’m hoping that it’s not something that’s affected the capsule in a negative way. The diagphrahms look good other than being pretty dusty, and the Mic works, and seems to sound okay! Anyway, I’m thinking of trying to send it to Gene, because I don’t think it would be a bad idea to at least give the mic/capsule a once over, aside from the shock mount replacement, and maybe a capsule cleaning if he does that. I guess just after awhile maybe the rubber sort of got old, or soft or something, unless it’s actually broken, or cracked inside where the rubber is, but I don’t know how to tell. Do you know what’s sort of inside the rubber piece, like is it just a solid stem, or is there like space in the middle, because i feel like if it was a solid piece going all the way, I don’t get how it would flex like that so easily ya know? Like you can def see the rubber flexing when the capsule droops over, but ya I dunno hah. If you don’t know that’s fine. Im trying to get ahold of Gene. Just kind of a bummer that I got this surprise, and it was extremely evident as soon as I picked up the mic. And nothing was shipped. I carried it straight home from his studio, and babied it the whole way. Anyway, just wanted to get your opinion, or see if you had any thoughts. Cheers bro!
@amp_mechanic8 ай бұрын
Hi James, yes I just pulled the old shock mount out and put the new one in. This one was doing a similar thing, capsule would flop all over. I think the material they used just got super flexible over time and became gummy so it provides no support. But this one hadn't been doing it long because there were no marks at all. If it sounds fine, and there are no blemishes on the capsule film, it's likely fine. The swap is pretty straight forward if you take your time and are careful. Good luck!
@jamescassidy40458 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanic Oh ok, it was flopping too huh. Good to know then. Do you think I need to worry about the technical side, like the resistance/continuity stuff? So basically the shockmount shouldn't have any resistance, and the one you had that didn't work only had it, because it was defective right? So, like if I got a new one, I could just test it before I put it on, and it should just read zero resistance/continuity is that it? Is there a way to test for it after it's installed as well? Also, you know that little terminal where the wires are soldered. Do the wires need to be soldered/unsoldered from the terminals, or is it just the capsule side you need to detach the wire, assuming the wire is fine I mean. Also, for the wire, do you know if the new mounts include any spare wires? Thanks for your help dude, means a lot to me! I was thinking also, maybe it would be a good idea to buy a spare shockmount just incase down the road Lawson closes it's doors or something. I mean, I'm hopeful they will keep going, but I was thinking last night, how possible would it be to mod this Mic, or find a capsule mount, if you didn't have the Lawson one? I'm sure it's possible, but not sure what you'd do lol. Were you saying the new one seemed a little shorter also? That sounds like it could help with that flexing/flopping thing over time.
@amp_mechanic8 ай бұрын
@@jamescassidy4045 I wouldn't worry about it. It was just a one off manufacturing defect. Just install it. I don't believe you need to solder. The wires are soldered on tabs that connect to the capsule with a screw. Remove screw from old, install on new. (I could be wrong about that since it's been a while and I've done other mics since) It's probably not a bad idea to have a spare. Although worst case, you could get another mount and adapt it to work. And yes, new shockmount is shorter. The old ones were too long, the capsule sat very high. Good luck with it!
@jamescassidy40456 ай бұрын
@@amp_mechanicHey! Thanks, and sorry for the long messages, I think I just got a bit anxious, and overthink stuff sometimes hah. Anyway, the new mount came today, so I’ll hopefully get up to it this weekend. You know, it’s funny, looking at it before, I kinda had that same thought that I wouldn’t need to solder/desolder, or snip any wires, but the instructions actually say that I’ll need to desolder or snip, so we’ll see lol. I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed even reading the instructions right now, as it looks like a lot, but they are very detailed, and once I have it in front of me I’m sure I’ll be fine hah. Hey, can I ask, do you have any recommendations on what to order as far as high quality capsule wire goes? Like type, gauge, and maybe even brand(s)? Basically, I’m just now thinking, it might be good to have some on hand just in case I mess something up, and also, I may even just replace all of them, only because I’m not positive, but when I was testing it at one point, I thought I might have briefly heard some slight intermittent noise or cutting out, but wasn’t the type of thing that was constant or obv. There was just one or two tiny moments where I thought I heard something, and with the capsule clearly having signs that it, and the wires were obv banging / moving around a shit tonne, it’s quite possible one or more of the wires could be slightly damaged, or on its way, so was just a thought, and something I’d like to have on hand anyway, but I’m still just kinda green when it comes to tech work, and I’ve never ordered wire for mics/capsules before. Could you even go up a gauge, or is there a range, or is it always better to stick to the gauge the mic was built with for certain reasons? Thanks man! James
@amp_mechanic6 ай бұрын
@@jamescassidy4045 Hi James, I can't remember now if removing a wire or two is required. I think you can just remove the old shock mount if you're careful with it. For wire, it's pretty light gauge used. Probably 26 or so but you may want to reference some mic builder forums. There's nothing wrong with going up a size. Some people like to use higher grade wire. I think as long as you go with a decent brand, not the really cheap stuff off amazon, you'll be fine. The really cheap stuff can be ok but it's the insulation that is bad. And usually it's more very fine strands to make up the wire gauge. I tend toward fewer bigger strands or using solid core when the application permits. At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You'll go crazy and spend a bunch of money with not much or no real difference.
@toddwilson-qw7fz8 ай бұрын
Hey there. I am curious about how you acquired the replacement capsule mount. I have an L47 with same exact issue and have tried every way I can to get a hold of Lawson Mics but cannot get a reply to save my life. Any suggestions? I'm sorry to bother you with this, I'm just shooting in the dark, at this point. Thank you. Todd
@amp_mechanic8 ай бұрын
I don't have any better advice than, send an email. If I remember correctly, it took Gayle a few days, maybe a week, to get back to me. Keep trying.
@breakburrito3 ай бұрын
Same situation here. I'm wondering now if I'm going to have to figure out a diy solution for the shockmount. Does anyone know the type of material?
@toddwilson82533 ай бұрын
@@breakburrito The material is sorbothane. And Mr. Lawson, WILL finally call you back. He sold me a new replacement and offered to put it in at the factory if I didn't feel confident in doing it myself. It's a small operation and they're rather busy.
@breakburrito3 ай бұрын
@@toddwilson8253 Thanks for the info, and optimism! The sorbothane apparently has a finite lifespan. Maybe there is a better material...
@breakburrito3 ай бұрын
@@toddwilson8253 Update. It's been over two weeks and no response from Lawson to my email or phone call. I moved forward with fabricating a solid internal capsule mount and retrofitted an external shock mount to hold the 251. Sad that it had to come to this. I will be wiring up the capsule this week. Hopefully it works.
@adcromwell8 ай бұрын
So the voltage divider issue with the prime weld cut 60 is the reason its not on the recommendation list for arc droid? Im planning on maybe getting the arc droid but dont want to replace my cut 60. Also seen where you mention something about thc unlock code from arc droid.. is that something to be concerned about?
@amp_mechanic8 ай бұрын
No, some Cut60's have a HF issue with the ArcDroid. Not all but some. That is unrelated to THC. The internal divider performance varies by machine, same as most other brands. I'd run the Cut60 in your situation, if you end up with the ArcDroid resetting mid cut, you'll know you have an HF issue. There are tons of people running the Cut60 without issue. THC is still in beta and I suspect it will be forever. They don't even advertise it as a feature anymore. Once you get some experience, email ArcDroid with your serial, they will send an unlock code. There may be some back and forth and trying to convince you to just use autolevel but if you persist, they will send it.