You can get them in most Hobby Ships or even eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/375676790016?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

Thanks. Although on digital devices, the LEDs looks like it flickers a lot but irl, due to our eye's persistence of vision, the flicker is not so noticeable.

Hi, I am not sure which video you're talking about. Can you send me the link, please?

Hi, this is so long ago, I can't find the board anymore. But iirc, it should.

The Arduino was a very useful programming Language which can lead to the interested party to learn mode about C coding. However, at that time, it does not have a bootloader which means if I were to use it, I would have to get a whole complete Arduino board even if I do not use all of its ports. So, the microchip PIC is just one small IC package where I can add other components as and when I needed it.

The glowing windscreen was achieved by masking the pattern and then painting in the fluorescent clear. When the UV LED lights up, so did the fluorescent pattern.

I'm guessing 1.1Kg/cm but this was so long ago.

Normal Solder melts around 183°Celsius (361°F). From the Internet, it is given as 350°C for hand soldering and lower for re-flow. I use a 25W-30W soldering iron with a pencil solder bit, 0.6mm resin-core solder with flux. The exercise allow me to solder less than 3seconds or so for one soldering join. This results minimal burning of the component.

Thank you good sir!

The 'pipe' is actually made of plastic and so, it cannot be filled.

This is a scale model so it does not need any cooling.

Thanks for your kind message. My Website is: chowfookcheong.com

Well, the board is from gmprops and if you're familiar with the 555/4017 circuits (I'm not), you can easily trace the fault. Having said that, the said board can be taken at face value and assume it was really the battery. Do note that the same cannot be said if the sounds are not working since I am not familiar with the circuits for sound.

Thanks. This is a prototype circuit for the Fujimi 1/24 scale Blade Runner Spinner car. I noticed that all the lights in the car was flashing or spinning at different speeds. So, I tried to emulate that but it had to use three microcontroller chips. If everything goes well, it would look almost like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXnFkp1jr6mAabM

No problem. This is my own tool to suit my own programming methods. This way, I can make sure the chip does not wear off before it can finally go onto the actual circuit board.

Well, I am thinking of using a reed switch so that the user can manual move the ramps themselves. Moreover, the chip only have 5 output which has been allocated for different segments of the LEDs. This is my Website: chowfookcheong.com/

You will have to connect the module to a Mosfet circuit to drive that 2A load.

Yes, that is the one. I got it from an eBay Auction long ago, and it came with the Roddenberry OSX. Gerry offered to get it replaced but I did not want to trouble him since this is not his fault and the shipping was horrendous.

@@MrEngineer Cool. I've been thinking about making a set of Endgame electrics myself but I can't decide upon the correct flashing pattern. The screenused ones look almost random but still seem to follow a flashing pattern. Maybe a random clock pulse?...

@@ktreplicas I can't remember but decades ago when I got that OSX, the pattern seems to be a 5-step sequence as compared to the TR-580 and the TR-590. Right at that time, there was a COB module available in the market.

@@MrEngineer ODO board I presume. Shame it isn't available anymore. I did see an XV Tricorder sometime back with tiny COB boards attached to the PCB instead of the 4017s. These tiny COB boards were clearly cut down from something bigger.

@@ktreplicas Wow. If that was an actual prop, it would be very interesting and confirms my theory. Right now, I'm on to this TR-595E Tricorder which was designed by ArkysLab. And you can see the progress on my website: www.chowfookcheong.com in both Blog and Web Page formats.

What do you need to know? You can also go to my Website for more information.

Which MosFET do you think is suitable? Have you tried searching the Internet and then read the Datasheets of he selected device? Please let me know too.

Hi, Somnath, The wiring is all there in the video.

I'm sorry. I am not the manufacturer.

Hi, the whole module includes the PCB from the Seller. I did not make the PCB.

I doubt the capacitance sensor is able to detect and act upon changes to the capacitive plate.

Not really. When the soldering iron touched the SMD LED, there is a lot of heat around that area. The Blu-tack will definitely melt first and the LED will come loose. Of all the double-sided tapes, the grey 3M tends to last longer before its glue weakens. This indirectly encourages one to solder fast.

Wow! Excellent piece!

Hi, Brian, You can get this from gmprops ([email protected]) and is designed for the Stapleton version.

Back in 2012, when the Movie was on, there was some promotion in the US for the cups. So I got some off eBay and modified it.

@@MrEngineer if i was i had to pick on it i would say some light foam one the inside could be used

@@bombquest726 Yeah< I thought of that too but in reality, the cup holder has a very small diameter. So, an adult would have some issues with it. Hence in the video, you can see my arms looked squeezed.

Thanks. It was a rush job for a friend who wanted to use it to promote the Movie.

@@MrEngineer it pretty good im trying to make one myself

@@bombquest726 Here is an example of the cup in its original state: www.collectors.com/entertainment-item/slurpee-7-eleven-cowboys-aliens-promo-drink-cup-wristblaste/5514812050011365703

Hi, You can try to reach out Myron Stapleton on Facebook first as he is most responsive. Or you can try emailing gmprops at [email protected], bearing in mind that this is his side gig as he has a full time job.

Hi, HUNTER404, I drilled out the tail and inserted the 0805 SMD LEDS into it. As for the blinking, it was connected to my microcontroller board which provided the lighting sequence to the whole Valkyrie. At the time, it was a prototype and the board was designed for Warhammer crafts. Eventually, if could not get them to market as no one wanted it except to play games.

Sorry, man. I don't do those

HI, If you look at the following link, one of the pictures shows you how to connect the cree LED and if that does not work, you might want look into using the module to control a FET transistor to drive the LED although the original link I bought from says it has a maximum output of 500mA.

@@MrEngineer same here. Mine saids 500ma and it still can't drive a 3.3v 350ma rated cre xre. How would you connect the FET? I am a electronic newbie when it comes to transistors, diodes, capacitors, IC but not new to soldering and general electronic knowledge. Really appreciate your time here to help all of us

@@MrEngineer which link are you referring to?

@@tapiocajai The link is dead. Here is another which is almost similar. However, you will need to use external components if the power requirement is higher. I have stopped playing with this more than 3 years ago. There are more links on the Internet which might help you in your journey. umnaya-elektronika.ru/moduli/drugie-moduli/modul-sensornogo-dimmera-fc-106-2.4-5v-500ma/

@@MrEngineer thank you!

HI, I am not sure if this is the same question you have asked me which I've answered 4 days earlier but here is the reply: I don't have the exact picture but I actually used a 0.76mm drill bit and drilled through the tail. I drilled two holes, as there were two wires. It is hard to get the drill bit as it is very long, measuring about 2.5 inches. facebook.com/PisceanWorks/photos/a.575920459150788/620715308004636/?type=3&permPage=1

HI, I don't have the exact picture but I actually used a 0.76mm drill bit and drilled through the tail. I drilled two holes, as there were two wires. It is hard to get the drill bit as it is very long, measuring about 2.5 inches. facebook.com/PisceanWorks/photos/a.575920459150788/620715308004636/?type=3&permPage=1

Thanks, It's still a prototype and I'm waiting for more components to arrive via mail before I finalise the design and move onwards to PCB design.

Its not a PCB but metal plates to hold the various gears that controls the speed of the spindle's rotation.

@@MrEngineer I refer to the background PCB.... The one with the BDC display

@@carlosmoran5980 Oh, that is my Voltage Converter. I needed 4.5 volts at that time so I bought and calibrated the batteries to give me exactly that. Now, I am using 5 volts from a Mobile Phone charger

@@MrEngineer Thank you so much! Quite interesting your projects!

@@carlosmoran5980 You're welcome. I like to dabble with these stuff to see if they can be used for my model kit projects.

Hi, I am not sure as this module was more than 3 years ago. It's no more with me