Love the shirt

How do you deal with the smell when you were engraving slate?

What settings did you use in imagr?

Is this with homing switches

Let's go Brandon 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

you're using a red laser pointer as a reference. Does this mean you're using a laser offset? If so, I was wondering if you tried the center finder tool in lightburn. It seems that it's not working properly when the laser offset is enabled. There was a thread on this in lightburn support but not solution were brought and it's been more than a year. The laser offset is also not taken into consideration when framing, which is counter-intuitive to say the least.

I've learned a great deal from this video in my quest to etch acrylic mirror tiles. New things about lightburn I didn't know about in a whole year of using it (renewed subscription 2 weeks ago). Appreciate the vid.👍

Whatever I do it engraves at laser Tree 10W recommend 6000 speed and 40% in the acrylic lights acrylic but not enough to show up when the light is turned on, Does the thing only work it total darkness?, the acrylic is a very tight fit into the black box so not sure it goes all the way in. using poster paint black on the top surface placed on a metal grid. any suggestion welcomed

left rear

What about the brass curling?

I know that this is an old video but perhaps you could answer a question. I follow your instructions in the video but my x position is at zero when the laser is in the right front corner but my position is (-421) minus 421. What am I doing wrong?

wont the laqure thinner peel up the paint though?

I'm curious why you don't use boxes for you speed/power tests. That would get you a more image based test result instead of just text.

Thank for so much, this fixed it. Great work.

How long did you let the paint on the tile dry before lasering it?

The cut at 8:05, how did you get the cover off? Another video on the same topic also cut and I can't get the top off! Edit: ah the stuck filament sort of blocks the removal of the cover, so it can be a bit difficult. I used a large flathead to pry it open.

Nice video. Good job on the Xtool legs. I need to make a set of those. Unfortunately, the amazon link does not work.

awesome shirt

I wonder if this would work with aluminum.

With the purple and that nice beard, I'm getting a strong Brolin/Thanos vibe..... ;-D (@ 08:52)

Thanks for experimenting and sharing. Very helpful.

Do you put the Paint on the Top or Bottom?

Thanks for the video, the way you showed people how to centre a laser is way better than many others. Being a noob myself (2 days) I was getting confused with the way many others were showing how to do it. Yours was simple, straight to the point and easy to follow. Thanks a lot.

Nice. I wonder if you might have a moisture problem with your filament. I don't have that specific printer but I know when I had a moisture problem I had all sorts of issues. Filament snapping in the tube and snags and bind-ups like you had there were pretty common. I recommend that you lightly lubricate those rods with some white lithium grease as well and keep them free of dust build-up so that you don't have issues. I let dust build up on my Ultimaker rods and moisture caused rust to form in a ring around one of the rods. I saved it before it started pitting but it was getting close to causing permanent damage. But if you keep those rods clean and lightly greased so that everything runs smoothly you shouldn't have any problems. Depends what sort of environment your printer lives in, of course, but if it's anything like mine was, dust build-up on those rods will, if left for a while, suck up moisture from the air and you could end up with surface rust in a ring around the rod where the dust gathers. It certainly surprised me when it happened to mine. I just lightly grease my rails every time I see any build-up now and I don't have to worry about it.

this might be a comment on a old post but, I am having a hard time getting the same kind of quality on the engraving on glass using a 50w fiber

If you're so concerned about using these washes with photos, why didn't you test with photos? I think the test was inconclusive.

I subbed just by reading the shirt

How do you know when you need to replace the lense?

Have someone tried to add tio2 in the black paint?

How do you set the font height knowing your still in the coasters edges?

Don’t have light burn, how about just xtool software? “Please”

Lots of possibilities! 👍If you tweak the settings for the filament you should get some decent resolution prints. I have the Ultimaker 2 Plus Extended, as well as the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and now that I also have the D1 Pro laser, I have lots of ideas. I imagine you'll find lots of uses for yours in your workshop. Great for custom brackets, etc.

Not sure if you cover this in your follow-up video, but I think you focused on the top of the acrylic instead on the surface that you are actually engraving (the bottom). You should actually focus on the card underneath. This assumes that the painted/coated surface was the bottom, not the top. Also, isopropyl alcohol will damage the acrylic, causing crazing.

What was your LPI?

I noticed in the kits you are selling that they do not have a "key" to remove the ring, what should we use? Also is that lens 14mm? I have the D1 no-pro 20watt. Thanks.

A material test burn would have saved you so much time.

I got an acrylic led pack for laser engraving off amazon and i did a power/speed table test and it's cracked in every box on every speed and every setting any advice is it the acrylic? It is extruded not cast

Great Video, I was just asked to do a job to engrave/Mark bottle openers made of brass. And I just purchased the OMTECH spray, which was half the price and bigger in size. So I will try this as well. Thanks for doing this, it was very helpful and gave me hope!!! Thanks Sir

I appreciate the help, but you should be aware that some xTool lens covers are different that what you featured in this video. I have a D1 Pro 20W machine I purchased in 2022, and the lens covers I received from the factory use 10mm glass, not 14mm, and have no brass retaining ring.

Need to try this with ti02 on the surface

Would it not do the test correctly if you would have united the full array?

Have you figured out what the "adjustment" % settings are for yet? On the touch screen control panel under adjustments it says 50 % & 3%. I'm having trouble finding out what these settings are for. I have the same Ray5 10 watt as well but I'm unsure if I'm getting the most out of it due to not knowing what that setting is for. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just bought the laser noob burn test file off Etsy for lightburn and I want to make sure I have all the settings right first.

For those wandering, the omtech spray is now $40

Very good test, thank you for sharing! That helps a lot for deciding how to get Pictures on wood right! I like the way you are thinking.

Donyou have a video showing how you made the grid that is on your laser bed? Great video. Very helpful. I also have issues with laser printing text backwords. Thank you

Great tutorial! One question only: What parameters should I choose for a 20w diode laser?

Nice video. Just one question. Does the burn create a lot of residue that ends up on the laser lens cover?

great tutorials are you using air assist with acrylics? or glass in your other tutorial for glass engraving?

Basswood

Thanks for sharing your videos with us. My first laser was a Longer Ray 10 watt. I never planned to be a laser guy but just to have something to engrave things I turned on my lathe. The Longer, nearly a year later is still doing what I need it to do but I have begun to do more with the laser than any other wood working tools in mt shop. I do however wish the air assist nozzle had a smaller hole but it works. I buy 3mm plywood from Amazon and several don't like to be cut and the brand that cuts like butter is no available now. It cuts with 300mm/min @100% power. Who knew laser cutting/engraving would be so much fun.