Sir:. You truly show your professionalism during this video. Absolutely no complaints as you are thorough, concise & certainly show your knowledge in Forestry. Well done!

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(5:00-6:02) Good advice to get those problem branches first. They are a problem for two reasons: 1. the angles between branches and stem are highly acute upward-in the future are likely to tear off and damage the stem of the tree, 2. they are getting big (approaching 2”diameter and should be removed now so that stem can grow good clear wood over the wounds. Good advice to leave the small branches for now. In addition to providing leaf area for photosynthesis, the presence of those branches reduces the chance of sucker branches that can grow off the stem near the location of significant branch removal. Be sure to revisit that tree again soon (preferably the next year and several thereafter to remove those small branches before they become as big as the problem branches that were just removed.

(27:50-28:30) If the mechanical damage was from deer (and not just bad genetics), you can give the new stems a much better chance of yielding a high quality tree if you strategically leave the tree you just cut off on the ground surrounding the stump. Those branches can physically protect the the newly developing stems from the same type of deer damage that might be responsible for its current poor form. Similarly, use other branches and brushy material to protect both the expected new stems on this tree and the stems of other nice but vulnerable young trees in the stand.

I would like to see how those trees look like today. Nice video with easy to understand instructions

I have 3 black walnuts that were here when i bought the house. I want yo prune but not kill the trees.What should i look for in a tree cutter?

Thank you for uploading this, it's actually much more definitive information than any modern videos I've seen on raising timber

Best video series out there. Thankyou!!

This is the best pruning video for hardwood trees out there hands down. Thanks for posting has helped me so much!!

old classic and everything u need to know about black walnuts. How old this video look like to me in the 90

oldie but goodie lol. thanks for sharing

This is still the best "real world" video (parts 1 and 2) for pruning black walnut of anything I've seen on KZbin and is directly applicable to pruning oaks, black cherries, and all other hardwoods I've pruned too. This video hits the nail on the head when it says that pruning is an art. And, it's an art that takes lots of practice. I've been pruning walnuts, oaks and black cherries for nearly 30 years and I still learn something when I look at my previous prunings. If you're new to pruning, watch this video and then go try. Just start. If in doubt, prune a bit conservatively and then come back next year, assess your actions, adapt, and continue pruning. I have three things to add to this great video. 1. When you become good at pruning (several years of practice!) you can move to a chainsaw powered pruning saw and you might even do a better job. You can prune more trees per day and can often leave a smaller scar on the tree, especially when pruning limbs that are tightly angled upward and hard to get a handsaw into. Also, handsaws are difficult to sharpen, tire you out faster, and they don't last as long as you think. A chainsaw pole pruner is cheaper to maintain if you prune a lot. 2. The video says not to prune a limb that's bigger than 2" in diameter. That's a good rule for beginners but it doesn't account that you can prune larger limbs if your trees are growing aggressively. I use the general rule that I take tree growth per decade and multiply by 0.6 for maximum limb diameter. My trees are commonly growing at about 5"-6" decade. So I can prune 2.5" to 3" diameter limbs without danger. If a side limb is bigger than desired but if you leave it the tree won't make at least a 8' 6" log, cut it! You have no risk, as the tree is worthless without pruning anyway. 3. If your plantation is growing well, don't take more than 30% of the limbs (summer leaf area) off during initial pruning. Then next year, take no more than 15% to 20% max. If you prune every other year or even longer, follow the 30% removal guideline. For annual pruning follow the 15%-20% maximum removal rule of thumb. If you have a big limb you have to take off for a major correction and it exceeds these rules, do it. It will just slow the tree's long term growth until it recovers. Trees, like children, really benefit from lots of attention early in life. Again, great video!

Looks like he is cutting into the branch collar

There is no sound track?

Thanks for posting this video

Great video. Excellent presentation. Makes me almost want to move to Nebraska and sign up to be a park ranger. Thanks

Is there an optimal time for pruning a mature fruiting walnut. I always try to practice proper pruning techniques for each tree spec.

Excellent tutorial. Where can I find Part 1 ?