Agreed. We never used the flat metal plate after this first prototype. A simple geotextile is enough to prevent the gravel from mixing with the earth.

Really great actually :) We did it in multiple projects, without the bottom plates. Use a geotextile under the tyres. No updates on the specs though! Read the article on our site for more.

Hey! We have quite a bit, I would actually send you to our online course about mycelium, check it out on our learning platform criti.co

Yes the use of the tung is precisely because it comes from very far. Doing such we're mimicking the old practice of exchanging wood between regions, so that local bugs wouldn't eat the wood you use. The footprint of exchanging wood is a lot worse than getting the oil and add it to your mix. In our case, Tung Oil is an additive, but using the right wood (and its right parts) is most important for structural work. When it comes to decorative work (substitutable parts), we usually use a more fragile part of the trunks, so treatment (flour paint, oils, etc.) is necessary and linseed oil is indeed already a very good protection, if applied regularly.

@@CriticalConcrete Importing new pathogens also (like with wood, potentially), with high price and exploitations of poor peoples from the other side of the planet.....

@@AutoNomades Feel free to use only linseed oil. It's already really good and what we use 90% of the times. You're right on the fact that we need to be careful of the supply chains, but it's really complex actually to know in what conditions what we buy is produced. For the pathogens, I honestly think you might be overthinking it, in this particular case.

Hey! We updated the burning station a while ago, see the video I mention in the description section: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGmuqKeCn8x1Y6M Thanks!

@@CriticalConcrete That one's not as detailed as this one though. Thank you for the response.

You won the prize of being the 100000th comment correcting the name! Bravo :) It has been corrected already in the title a looooooong time ago :)

The way we do it is about 20 minutes per tyre I reckon, which is not that bad all in all for a single-step footing! But we're going to try this summer a faster technique, where we cut the rim first (idea of Jean-Philippe Valla). Best!

You won the prize of being the 99999th comment correcting the name! Bravo :) It has been corrected already in the title a looooooong time ago :)

Hey! Wasn't at the time we did the test and we didn't really continue with the cardboard insulation. Lime sounds great though, easy to access and cheap.

@@CriticalConcrete Ok ! What are you favorizing, at the end finally , why ?

@@AutoNomades We're big fans of hempcrete and alike solutions. Basically Clay+lime+fibers, fibers sourced locally depending on your context and budget: sawdust, hemp, rice husks, etc. That said, every project may need a different answer (is it a renovation, new construction, what climate are you facing, etc.)

I agree that the first prototype was comparable in carbon footprint to concrete, because of the steel plate. We didn't use it anymore after that first prototype.

Yes! We clarified in the article on the website that wasn't also our favorite option and never used a steel plate under a tyre foundation after this first prototype.

It's a drop breaker. It prevents the water to get in by capillarity and force the creation of a drop that falls down before getting in.

Hi Davide! You're right to be concerned about hurricane uplift with this type of foundations. All foundations do not respond well to all type of geography specificity. I'd always advise to consult a local civil engineer to fool-proof any kind of solution proposed. Good luck with your projects!

Hi Dustin! KZbin channels do not have the obligation to post every time something happens. KZbin represents 0% of our income as an association, so when we can, we publish, when we can't we don't :) If you're interested in the research about the substrate, contact Neoturf, they're the responsible of that part of the research. Their website is in the video description!

Hi! I can't find the reference on why we were using the coconut oil at first. I think one of our staff found that on an Italian website, but no idea which one! See the updated recipe here: criticalconcrete.com/wood-protection-oil-mixture/

if you use a full piece of wood, it's always going to be easier to use the grain in the direction of the length, just because trees tens to be long and narrow rather than short and thick. That said, if you wanted to use the grain in the short direction, it wouldn't be a problem.

Agree on many points! Green roofs, like most roofs, are not maintenance free. I'd now add to this video that you need to monitor what is growing, birds and wind will bring seeds from anywhere, so deep roots plants are to be avoided and need to be removed for the sake of your EPDM joints. I don't think that the EPDM per se is the problem, but potentially the bond you put between each sheets of EPDM might. We had problem with the Rollgum 007 (sic) bond in particular, I would not recommend this product. When possible, I'd recommend to get a membrane the size of the roof (they manufacture them pretty big!). For bigger surface, get mindful advice on the best bond, again. If possible, avoid putting windows on the roof, they add quite a lot of complexity to the system and potential leaking points. The more openings you create on your EPDM, the more problems you might have. An good EPDM is pretty fool proof if you don't challenge yourself too much with openings and connections. About bees and biodiversity, and heat: well I guess it depends on your exposure and climate. We did see a lot of new fauna on our greenroof, from cats to bugs (bees included). How to avoid leaks on the EPDM: place it with socks, no shoes, strictly. The cork panels we put act as a cushion and protect it from little stones pressing the membrane. How to find a leak on the EPDM: remove the layers on a big area around your leak, broom the membrane, them inspect methodically the area. See if any root is finding its way through the connection between membranes. Looks for holes on the EPDM, they often appear as a tiny cut. If you still don't find the problem, make a clean cut in the EPDM, in the direction of the inclination of the roof, to see where you find humidity under your membrane. Once you found the area more precisely, inspect by pulling the membrane with your hands under it, to see where you have your small cut. Let dry, then patch with a piece of membrane under your original membrane, and another piece on top of it. Follow instructions of the bond material you're using. If you're doing everything yourself, you get a solid understanding of these things, if not, make sure you get a guaranty from the company that does the installation for a couple of years so that they would come and fix whatever is needed. Like most things, after our experience with the green roof, I don't think it's a clear black and white option, rather another option, that can be done "pretty" sustainably and gives the possibility to bring some green space in dense areas, but not a miracle solution to roofing.

thank you!!

Thanks!! Chestnut! But any good pine you have around will do :)

I heard about people charring bamboo but we didn't try it ourselves!

Hi John, we bought it from an online store. There are plenty. In Portugal www.boletosdeorum.pt for example! You can just google "buy" (in the language of the country you are) spawn "name of the mycelium you want"

thank you!! we upgraded the brick version to a barrel one some time ago already that's more efficient kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGmuqKeCn8x1Y6M let us know how it goes!

They're from the brand Siegenia: shop.siegenia.com/siegenia/en we got them from a local supplier but seems like they have an online shop now!

Yes we got pretty good results with pine!

Two big screws on the timber structure of my attic. If you're going to put on a wall, make sure it's not a dry wall and rather use metallic wall plug instead of plastic ones.

Hi there! bs-solution.pt , they distribute Siegenia hardware in Portugal :)

Hi Joro, you mean the router bits? Some Bosch, some white brands, nothing fancy there.

Hi Victoria and John! Yes that sounds like a fine idea. To have them higher from the ground, put a car sized tyre on top of a bigger one (tractor or truck). They need to be very well compacted.

Oh thank you! We will take that into consideration! :)