You can buy rigid metal wall flashings that should be drilled out and mechanically fixed to the wall with screws followed by sealant in the chase.

Yes it will stick to anything that has been primed with FG35. I’ve done exactly what you’re proposing to do but it can be a bit tricky. You have to score the backing in the right places. You will definitely need help and to let it lay down at the same rate as your helper. Do one long side at a time. Score at the change of angle. Stick one upstand first then the sole and lastly the opposing upstand. You may have a bit of welding to do at either end.

@@DSherrattRoofing thank you for your advice, really appreciate it!

For site and council work. Plum

Wtf, you can't be serious? Whats wrong in his work?

​@olejaerson1852 I've been flat roofing for 20 years, it's easy to see he is not a flat roofer

There's no lead tray on the brick wall

Hahah, the standards you have isn't that good in France, welcome to Norway one day and try😂

Which tool do u need advice on. We use lots of tools.

Hi All joints/ laps need to be welded. Definitely not silicone. I always board with osb over insulation screwed with long (200mm) screws into joists. Therefore the insulation doesn’t need bonding as it’s sandwiched between boards. Don’t forget ur vapour barrier.

Yea it does. Sticks hard. You cannot remove it once it’s down. Particularly on warm days. Good luck.

@@DSherrattRoofing I'm dreading this, I might need to e mail you. I'm not sure how to do my roof window up stands because they are the pvc ones that come on the window and they are a compound miter rather than just vertical right angles. I'm not sure if the you tube method is still the correct one or if I need to cut different patch shapes for the corners 🤦‍♂️

@@justbreakingballs I’ll send you some photos of that detail later. I used some reclaimed roof windows when I built my shed. I had to find a slightly different way to do it coz of those mitred upstands. It’s really not too difficult. Mine doesn’t look perfect but it’s watertight. I kinda done it like u would with torch on and didn’t bother with the circular patches. . Tip. Score lots of lines in the backing paper so your only bonding a small area at a time. So if you have. a 300 mm upstand then score it 6 times and peel off just 50 mm at a time. Hope that makes sense. Over size everything and trim back once in position. Reapply backing paper to areas like corners before cutting or it gums up ur scissors. Keep scissors clean with WD40. You’ll be fine. Take ur time. Try to have a second pair of hands to help. If for motivation if nothing else.

@@DSherrattRoofing Thanks for that, do you mind if I what's app you to your number off your website?

@@justbreakingballs no problem. Do that and I’ll jump up on the shed and take a quick video and send it to you

Royston, Hertfordshire

I get I on just fine with the sure edge system. A couple of tips though. Be sure to set part 1 of the gutter trim a few mm down from the perpendicular edge of the corner of the roof to avoid a bulbous rounded edge. And try to fit a few extra nails around the lap of the membrane. Also set the timber drip batten a few mm lower than the timber decking. It all helps it roll off the roof that much better. I’d also recommend not using other cheap imitations . Sure edge Arwen by far the best trims. Good luck with it and I’m happy to help I’m any way I can

I’d avoid any other brand apart from sure edge. I find them to be rubbish.

​@@DSherrattRoofing cheers, I've got the sure edge so hopefully it will be OK, I must admit I wasn't 100% sold on that foam bit on the kerb edges I'm concerned it will rot or get gummed up. We will see.

​@@DSherrattRoofing Thanks for the tips, I'm a bit nervous about putting it down, like the corner edges coming from kerb to drip I can't see how I'll be able to dress it over the corner without it being too thick and messing with the trims. I've come to the conclusion I can't dress it in pig ear style and will have to cut it and weld which I can't see a problem with. One thing I note when watching all the videos is why they have to add so much to sat an external corner, patch over patch. I thought this stuff once welded was water tight do you think the methods are a bit belt and braces?

@@justbreakingballs yeh I just cut and weld the corners for that reason. And yes I do think it’s a bit ott re the corners. But I guess it’s a vulnerable area and therefore the text book method is to be exactly that, belt and braces. In very tricky details in the past I’ve not bothered with the whole circular patch thing. Generally if it looks sound then it’ll probably be fine for ever more.

I really try not to get drawn into “ debates” with those who know better than me. I’m open to suggestions and love comparing techniques and methods to do a better job. I don’t claim to know it all. I’m just sharing the way I do it. And I wouldn’t share anything if I wasn’t 100% sure it was a tried a tested method. If I couldn’t earn in this game then I’d have given it up decades ago. I’m a VAT registered Ltd company with employees. I turn more work down than I take on. So I defo can earn a wage out of this game. I recall doing what ur doing, commenting on how everyone else was doing it wrong and how I knew best. But then I grew up and realised its a lot more constructive to offer suggestions or better still start uploading videos and share an improved method. I’ll be the first to watch your video and comment. And my comment will be mature, constructive and helpful. I look forward to your video on showing me the correct way to do it.

Thank you. It was a big Job. But their heating bills will be reduced massively next winter. And that roof will never need replacing again.

@@DSherrattRoofing I know, you are a great professional.

Yes in some cases if the substrate is very unstable. But in order to keep the depth to a minimum I would opt to use 6 mm ply instead. You can get metal wall trims that protrude into the wall by 40 mm instead of the 25 mm standard ones. This helps overcome the increased depth of ur upstand. U’ll have a bigger bead of sealant to apply also of course. Sometimes it does just have to be done that way. Hope this helps. Search rubber for roofs/ wall trims for your alternative flashings. I like their sealants too.

I don’t understand but if ittsomething to with minimum upstand then k was governed by the existing coping stone. Maybe that’s what I r talking about?!

I think that’s a compliment! Thanks. But true to say some skin has been lost along the way.

Duly noted. If we ain’t learning then we ain’t trying, eh?

Yes. I take that as good advice

Danke

I’ve always just bought as many rolls of 1 metre as what I need to cover the required area. I’m not even sure that you can get bigger sizes. And why would you when u can just weld multiple pieces together. Resitrix is not like Classic Bond Epdm where you buy a sheet of rubber to fit the roof. If you don’t like welding then u could opt for that system but you’d still have the detailing work to do and in my humble opinion, Resitrix is by far the superior single ply roof covering available. I only use Classic Bond if it’s a very simple job like a four sided garage. As soon as there’s a lantern or corners, pipes etc to get around then it’s Resitrix every time. Hands down, the best option on the market. Buy from a roofing merchant and not online is my advice

​@@DSherrattRoofing Thanks for taking the time to reply it's much appreciated. I have 4x2 metre flat roof to do at home fancy having a go at it I am in building trade .

@@MrJasdog107 I’m unclear. Are you saying you fancy having a go at it? If you’re in the building game then you shouldn’t struggle at all. You will need a hot air gun. The leister ones cost about £500. You can get cheaper imitations but like anything, you get what u pay for. That applies to people as well as tools. It’s hard to get potential customers to understand that if they think they’re getting a really good and cheap deal then chances are they are not getting that at all. But instead they will probably find they end up with a substandard roof done badly that may leak before long. Using this material correctly I believe will last a lifetime.

@@MrJasdog107 take a video of tour progress and upload it.

Hi it's just on a small flat roof at my own house. Not looking to take it up professionally . Leave that to the experts

Yeh. Gives a good bond and stops them from ballooning in the long term. Some roofing merchants sell them pre-primed. Only takes a second and all adds to an improved finish.

@@DSherrattRoofing they only get bubbles if they’re not stuck properly or they get too much heat and the gas trying to escape. The drip cards are designed for felt to stick to it. You’ve got to pat them rapidly and ferociously, like all felt

@@Mt3Dpdrtk thanks for the tips. It’s a wonder why they actually sell them with primer already on them then. I just thought it can’t do any harm. I prime everything. Someone commented on me not priming the back of my lead saddles which was an oversight by them coz I prime everything apart from the actual deck since that’s torched fairly vigorously and really doesn’t need it. Tbh I don’t do a lot of torch-on these days but prefer using single ply systems. A lot quicker, safer and less burned fingers!! Having said that, I have a lot of respect for torch on felt roofs. It’s a misconception that bituminous built up felt is unreliable. I think it gives a great finish and will last half a life time so long as it’s done properly using high quality materials. Same rules apply; Buy cheap, buy twice. I always try and use a 4 mm underlay but not everyone sells it and always go for the best mineral that they can offer. Always SBS. I really don’t like APP. It’s good to compare notes and learn from others. Don’t matter how many decades I’ve been in the game, I’m always open to learning from others.

@@DSherrattRoofing love your videos

Techno torch do a 3mm underlayer which sometime Sig have in stock

Thanks. I Appreciate your kind words

Thank you

I did. Watch again

Thanks For the advice

Hi. The timber substrate is primed with FG35 and the membrane is applied directly. This is single ply membrane/roofing. Ie one layer.

It’s very durable. It will take foot traffic no problem. Although walkways would need extra material in place. Resitrix claim a 50 year plus life span.

Thanks. I gotta get some more videos up.

Thanks

Never lay membrane parallel to the gutter. Always perpendicular to avoid pooling on the laps. Having said that, done properly it’ll not leak, merely hold some surface water. I have had to convince customers that flat roofs are inherently flat and that surface water is normal but it’s always advisable to avoid pooling where possible.

@@DSherrattRoofing thanks for the reply, I'm decided to use resitrix for my extension roof and am just working it all out in my head. What's your favorite trims to use for the drips and kerbs? I've only really seen the ones from rubber for roofs and perma roof, neither fill me with confidence, that compressible foam strip on the sure edge ones looks a bit diy. It makes me wonder how it will look in 10yrs will it be all rotted away. Also my skylight has a pvc upstand built in not a timber built one, do you think I W should weld to this or use primer? Thanks

@@justbreakingballs trims. I just use the site edge plastic trims. They seem to do the job. Alternatively there are the metal ones of which u r aware by the sounds of it. The downside of using them is that you will have to construct a timber kerb to your perimeter and still u will have to use plastic on the gutter. The only alternative I can think of in the gutter is to use the membrane to construct a drip edge. Not dissimilar to how we used to do it with torch on felt. So u tack lengths of membrane, then you fit a (primed fibre board, then you pull your membrane back up onto your deck. All field membrane then overlaps this arrangement. I’ve done it before where the customer didn’t wanna see plastic trims. Regarding roof lights. I always opt to build my own kerb and therefore maintain 90 ° change of angles. It’s a bit harder with those prefabricated kerbs that sweep up but not impossibly hard. Just prime ur kerbs the same as any other surface. You shouldn’t need to weld to any substrate. Welding is only required welding membrane to membrane. Good luck.

​@@DSherrattRoofing Thanks for the advice.

@@DSherrattRoofing that’s true customers always sweating about surface water. Technically Speaking water actually regulates the temperature, prolonging the life of the membrane

Thank u kindly

Thanks 👍

Really? This looks correct to me. How should it be done then?

Yeeha.

Many thanks

All surfaces are primed in fg35

Stop talking nonsense

Thanks For Caring