Jesus fkn Christ. Zoom the fuck out when you record

listen to your presentation

That has to be the most cursed CFL contraption I’ve ever seen…

I’ve got one exactly like this, do you think I could put it in my backyard like you did?

I'm curious, you made a video a long time ago about a Lakewood 792/JR 750 1500 Watts heater. I love the old Lakewood fans. Is it possible to change the heating element out in that fan? I'm taking a chance, if anybody knows it might be you. Thank you.

Man I am having an issue with a similar build. 20w sodium bulb, and I have tried it on a fulham sugar cube and a fulham workhorse, and both times it just wasn't putting enough power through to ever warm it up. Stayed a dull purple color, and only was drawing .05 amps of line current, so definitely not the full 20 watts. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I had it wired up the same way, red in parallel

that wooden structure sure is unique!

it happened to me it is from vacuum and high heat

An interesting thing about probe start metal halide ballasts is that they seem to do a better job of running mercury vapor lamps in colder temperatures compared to using standard mercury vapor ballasts because as the temperature decreases, the starting voltage of mercury vapor lamps increases. This is because probe start metal halide ballasts usually have a higher OCV compared to typical mercury vapor ballasts. Even before metal halide lighting was around, I have found out that some older 400W H33 mercury vapor ballasts apparently have an OCV that is similar to that of modern 400W M59 probe start metal halide ballasts of around 300V or so because they were designed to provide enough OCV to allow 400W H33 mercury vapor lamps to run more reliably in colder temperatures. This means that should you have a 400W H33 mercury vapor ballast that is specifically intended for cold temperature applications that has an OCV of around 300V or so, you should be able to retrofit any 400W H33 mercury vapor fixtures using those specific ballasts to run 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps without having a need to change the ballast and only needing to change the lamp depending on the ambient temperature. But if the fixture has a regular 200-250V OCV 400W H33 mercury vapor ballast and still want to upgrade it to 400W M59 probe start metal halide, you would still need to replace the ballast with a 400W M59 probe start metal halide ballast to properly run 400W M59 probe start metal halide lamps.

From what I am aware of, the only true penning start retrofit high pressure sodium lamps intended to replace 1000W H36 mercury vapor lamps are the 880W Sylvania Unalux lamps. Those 880W lamps are specifically designed to only run on 480V series choke ballasts or extremely hard to find 1000W H36 mercury vapor HX autotransformer ballasts. The 940W lamps you were referring to have mostly been made by Iwasaki and a few other Japanese manufacturers. Plus, I think the only 940W retrofit high pressure sodium lamps that are truly designed for use on North American 1000W H36 mercury vapor ballasts are the Iwasaki Sunlux NH940BLC, NH940BCE, and NH940BFCE lamps. One benefit about those lamps is that they are all compatible with CWA ballasts in addition to HX autotransformer ballasts and 480V series choke ballasts. All the other 940W retrofit lamps that I know of would work better on the less common 1000W H34 mercury vapor ballasts of the HX autotransformer type or the series choke type in addition to the common European 1000W mercury vapor series choke ballasts and Japanese 1000W mercury vapor HX autotransformer ballasts and series choke ballasts. The GE lamp in this video appears to be a relabeled Sylvania Unalux lamp. Interestingly, if you visit Japan or research its HID lighting portfolio, you can find a very wide range of HID lamps that are designed as retrofit lamps for mercury vapor ballasts. Those retrofit lamps include standard high pressure sodium lamps, deluxe high pressure sodium lamps, quartz metal halide lamps, and even ceramic metal halide lamps that use internal starting mechanisms ranging from the Iwasaki patented FEC ignitor, glowbottle starter, and the thermal starter. Because all these retrofit lamps are self starting, you can simply upgrade from mercury vapor to these more efficient HID light sources by only needing to replace the lamp in the existing fixture without any rewiring whatsoever. Due to Japan’s heavy usage of these HID retrofit lamps for mercury vapor ballasts, HX autotransformer ballasts and series choke ballasts are very easy to find even in high wattages, plus the 100V 50Hz HX autotransformer ballasts along with older HX autotransformer ballasts containing 110V 60Hz and 110V 50Hz taps should be relatively safe to use on a standard North American 120V 60Hz supply without the real need of an additional transformer.

Nice. Currently trying to do something like this with two dewalt power stations. I have a small tig/arc welder that runs on both 120V/240V. Want to be able to weld outdoors since my apartment does not have usable 240V outlets

I have also been seeing that Japan sometimes has some older mercury vapor ballasts with 110V taps especially for 200W and 300W mercury vapor lamps.

Good to know

I had a few cheap Chinese "Edison style" incandescents in a dining room fixture I replaced with LEDs recently and noticed one of the bulbs was substantially more darkened than the others despite being in the same fixture and obviously having the exact same run time. I wondered if the gas fill on the darkened one was faulty and if it was essentially a vacuum. Touching a high frequency handheld high voltage probe to the bulbs in succession with a Geiger counter nearby immediately reveals the answer - only the darkened bulb produced x-rays.

I love sunpower cells. They are also easy to solder DIY for hobby projects thanks to their copper backing. Same backing allows em to keep working after cell is fractured from impact too. (I don't recommend testing this opn an array though, buy some cheap loose cells to play with for that.)

Ah on the batteries ?

Do you know of a video that shows how to change the transformer on the flotron? and possible compatible replacement, the flotron site dont offer them.

Great video thanks

Finally a light

We should get rid of the LED and fluorescent and get back to reality switch back to incandescent 3:09

Interestingly, the VHO T12 and GE Powergroove fluorescent tubes also have a similar operating current to the 175W H39 mercury vapor lamps as well. I once tried using a 175W H39 mercury vapor CWA ballast as a preheat ballast for a 6 foot VHO T12 fluorescent tube and the tube somehow rectified during operation.

Could you try it with a hps bulb?

Nice stock! You should probably do the same with fluorescent in about 4 years as that isbeing effectively banned from being produced or imported after July 25th, 2028.

Useless

I have a bunch of Philips 56W 130V vacuum A21 street railway lamps that I bought at a surplus store. They are '90s vintage. They are very nice bulbs to use for general lighting as the lamp envelope stays cool due to the vacuum design and they last a long time. One feature of vacuum lamps is that they luminate (brighten) and nigresce (darken) more slowly than gas-filled lamps. I had them in a Victorian era chandelier and when you turned them on they would light up noticeably more slowly and extringuish slowly too.

Thanks for the date code info. I like old stuff and am always trying to decipher the various date codes. I finally figured out GE's 2-digit miniature lamp date codes on the various types of bulbs found in my '70's and 80's cars...what a revelation that was (to me anyway). Still trying to figure out the wacky dots-and-digit date codes on the Tung-Sol miniature lamps. Cool bulbs by the way.

Those are some weird wattage ratings there! 36W, 101W? I've seen old light bulbs burn out like an old flash-bulb. A huge bright light and then total darkness. May I ask why that type of lamp failure is bad for railway use?

What do you hate about led

Do you think the MOV for input surge protection on this single port charger would be the same as one on a 6 port Ryobi charger?

No non-electric lighting, get some Coleman lanterns running, those things use a lot of energy in the form of fuel. Efficacy of those is about 1 lumen per watt.

Nice variety of lights. As usual much more of a wattage total.

Very cool weird thing! I'd never seen those before.

Can you tell if the transformer is an induction transformer (primary and secondary windings are isolated)? OR Is it an autotransformer?

nice! I have been acquiring a stash of Arlen EFS electronic starters before they all vanish against the LED onslaught, I have got a few EFS120's and some EFS600's but the elusive EFS600UVX escapes me, I tried to order a couple that where showing as in stock from a specialist lighting wholesaler, but I sadly got messed about with incorrect substitutes, which is quite frustrating as I do have some US and European VHO tubes in my collection which I wish to start as gently as possible I am especially curious to know what sort of triac the EFS600UVX uses, the TN22 is only rated for 2A max, but im pretty sure the short circuit current of a 1.5A sun-bed choke may well exceed that... as an aside note on regular ol EFS600, I noticed there seems to be 2 distinct types, older sorts that are rated "30W-125W" and newer sorts rated "4W-125W" and what I noticed is the 30-125W always starts the tubes nice and cleanly, a solid preheat follow by a clean strike just like in your video but the more modern EFS600 4-125W sorts, seem to not strike the tube as cleanly, they preheat the tube for a few seconds, then while still preheating the tube, they also try to the strike the tube, so for about a second or so its stuck in this in between state with the ballast buzzing loudly as the triac pulse, before it finally allows the tube to strike I never liked how they do that, so I always look for the older 30W-125W ones, but I do wonder what the difference is between the 2 sorts to cause this differing behaviour?

Belarus? BY😂

Are ECCO Inverters any good?

What type of lightbulb or lighting did you use to film this video?

LOL, I wonder how that mistake got through! 🤦‍♂️

I’ve heard of those before. I believe I’ve seen a picture of a Sylvania one. Definitely a unique feature, but I don’t like how they implemented it. Even if you just wanted to turn the nightlight on, you have to turn on the CFL on first, which would encourage unnecessary starting of the CFL, wearing it down. Not sure if there would be a better way to implement the nightlight though. Are the LEDs daylight or warm white? I believe the Sylvania one I saw had daylight LEDs.

Saitama is not a ward of Tokyo. It is one of the 27 prefectures of Japan. The plant is in Gyoda City.

You're an idiot. They could make port 1 for pass through charging. Press a button and that's the only port to charge, while all the others are also active to discharge current. Battery 1 to depletion, go to battery 2 while 1 charges. When 2 deplets back to 1. When 1 is empty on to 3. When 3 is empty back to 1. When 1 is empty on to 4. When 4 is empty back to 1.... Depress the button, and you go to default how it is today. But what do I know, I wasn't home-schooled.

Was the battery algorithm fixed ?

Thanks, i just got one of these, haven't opened it yet.

You never know what kind of treasure lurks within the Jameco bag of mystery!

I was about to buy a 15k Sol ark, now that's on hold. This video is more than an eye opener as to far reaching ramifications. This uncovers a huge hole in anyone's plans for prepping. What inverters are able to run with ever being tied to the internet

Can u please get to it

Anyone know the size ot the torx key for the p118

You live in a place is probably cold year round

America runs on paranoia you could make a fortune selling those.

NO SOLAR Charging Capability SAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!