thanks!

Did you ever resolve the crooked belt issue?

That's how I fried mosfet (semiconductor) on printer's motherboard while using new fans on extruder😅

brilliant

Happened to me too

You're telling me that this machine has a better seal than an X1C? I just switched from the X1C to the Q1 myself, and am looking for a way to rig the X1C exhaust system I made ('twas magnetic since the rear was metal) to the plastic rear of the Q1.

hey, i have an ender 3 v2, and am having many issues leveling it, even with tons of upgrades. how do you level yours?

I know on the previous video you mentioned making a internal duct to channel the chamber exhaust out the right vent. To keep your main board/power supply cooler and stop exhaust leaking out the power supply vent. Can you make a video showing what you did or show what file you used? Please and Thank you

Try upgrading the bed and gantry steppers to bigger ones with more torque to eliminate skipping. That’s what I’m going to do with my ender 3 to achieve 175mms

Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro also has interesting system. It is internal and external circulation dual air filtration system with carbon and hepa filters. That is why I decided to buy one and I am waiting for delivery. It has a bit smaller build volume though, 220mm cubed.

Swap rodeo and bobs and ite perfect

buy better printers. QIDI is shit

Good looking out

Oh gosh bro. Hope that gets fixed. Here is a sub, like and I hope ya get it fixed again!

i wonder if they can't make a preloaded ballbearing of some sort instead of teeth for these rods

Any feedback on the performance of these pads?

I just printed a rectangle from the front left corner to the rear right corner and it was off by 2 whole MM in length

How did you print this. You may need too many supports for this, which orientation did you print., Did you some how managed without support.?, I am now printing this with the projections removed instead created a v notch on both sides with 45 deg andgle, and I will print the projections seperatly with v notch proecting out, so v part will go inside the V female part in the Main model, then I can glue them together without the position moved.

Nice informative video, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for setup or different/additional parts or accessories to optimize ABS printing on the Qidi Q1 Pro? Which Slicer and if you have changed them, what Nozzle and Build Plate type are you using? Also, how much extra printing capacity do you need on your print farm to compensate for print failures or printer down time, etc?

Dude.. usefull..

Hi, I'm not seeing any website in the channel description where you sell your services? You could also put signs on the walls to promote the business. I found one of your videos that had a link to a stl file on Thingiverse, posted by Collect3D and and googling finally led me to your website.

Adding more stages to a filter system can really help.

I was planning to use one of these in a small workshop/shed thing, so knowing it can be ducted so easily is great to know

How are you balancing the airflow between each printer? If you’re not using a baffle and manifold system, you’ll have high CFM air flow at the printer closest and next nothing at the furthest printer.

Do you have linear rails on your ender 3V2 for the X and Y axis?

Do you realize all three Amazon links or the same for the Q1 Pro?

How do I fix the clogging in the first place?

The K1 max has such a weak bed sub frame that leveling doesn't matter. Push even gently on either back corner and the whole bed goes out of level. The one rod at the back just isn't enough for such a week bed sub frame.

How fast do you run your ender 3 printers?

what fan are you using? i need a bigger one.

Would it be possible to see the back of one of the machines? How are the ducts attached?

I've been struggling with mine, what do you have your nozzle offset at for .6 nozzle?

Do you run your exhaust during a print with ABS/ASA? Wouldn't that remove the heat from the chamber?

cool looks awesome!!!

Hello, I need some help. I am new to 3d printing and i printed this 100mm calibration print, and it in fact showed that I had some issues (i get 99.5, 99.6 ...) but i don't what to adjust, what settings should i change in my printer or in the slicer ? Thanks

Pardon my ignorance, but would auto belt tension arm work. A toothed belt does not need to be that tight it just need to mesh correctly at the idles end and drive end.

Can you provide feedback on your auto eject system? Converting my empty 3000 sq ft warehouse to 3d print farm and looking for something that will auto eject. Appreciate all your content.

this doesnt make sense as gravity and weight of gantry keeps screwteeth engaded. Only posible case when this is true would be when you lay gantry weight on the printbed , and that should NOT happed at all. (but propably that happened when you had put your measuring tool against the printbed)

Thanks for the knowledge sharing. Just getting started with CR-10 SE Could you please share some of your mods on your setup; How did you mod/setup the Spool holder? Did you modded the cooling fan?

Great insight and solution

Is the QiDi Q1 Pro a open source printer?

should be a much easier way, i have an ender v1 and after an auto zero if you move z plus 0.02 you should hear the limit switch close and then move it back to zero and you hear it open

Can you list all of the mods that you've done to your CR-10 SE?

Thanks for the video. I had no idea it could maintain temp while using the exhaust fan. That does have a lot of utility.

I feel obliged to point out that if you encounter binding on any axis, check the eccentric nuts. I underestimated their influence once, and after a minor adjustment, my X-gantry rolls a LOT smoother, with all six wheels making contact. Sometimes, taking it all apart and properly and carefully reassembling it does help!

Your linear advance is off...thats the reason the cornors are bulging

I just updated the slicer to Creality Print 5.1 after replacing the hot end on my K1 (the old one failed because one of the ceramic heater wires detached from the contact pad of the heater element that's fused to the ceramic cylinder of the hot end. I think the wires must be welded on to cope with the 320+ degrees C temperature rating). My first print was more than 1% undersize on the X & Y axis. Then I did another print (sliced with a slightly different profile) that was almost spot-on dimensionally. Is there no way to calibrate the X & Y e-steps?

Try Diagonal dimensions it will be way worser according to my tests.

I've only printed PLA+ and PETG+ on my Q1 Pro but I'm glad that when I decide to go with ABS or ASA that I'll be covered. Thanks.

Theoretically, you could test this by z hopping mid print and if you get bad prints then you can assume it is this, correct? This is the first time I'm hearing of this after trying to get rid of elephant foot after not printing for a while, this would be more prevalent and known about I would think if it's a common issue?