Just look on Ebay, lots of cheap chinese crank holding tools.

One I made myself

Its exactly as a show in the video.

@@wapsac Thanks Paul for that👍

May be a piston in the helm pump seized up. Slacken off one of the bleed nipples on the hydraulic ram that pushes the motor and see if the helm turns. If not then its likely a fault with the helm pump

I bought the complete kit from emerald, web site www.emeraldm3d.com. They are also a dealer for the manifold

Lexan, (polycarbonate) is relatively easy to cut as it resists cracking, you can use a jig saw with a fine blade.

It could be air in the system, these need bleeding quite a lot to clear all the air bubbles. There are a number of videos on youtube on how to do this, on somr occasions I have had to rebleed the system 3 times after the new seals have bedded in. It could be some sticking pistons i the pump itself, but this is unlikly if you have just rebuilt it. Also take a look at the hydraulic Ram end on the motor to see if the seals need replacing. Good luck

Thanks. Haven't rebuild it yet, but am going to. You might have a point with airbubbles. I will keep this in mind!

Yes, sounds right based on what you have detailed. Make sure you replace the ball bearings with new to give it the best chance of working. When you dismantle it if its full of rusty fluid, clean it thoroughly and check the valve seats. Sometimes they get a bit corroded and will not seal properly. Its then a difficult task to clean them and put the best surface on them that you can.

If therer are no obvious steering fluid leaks, then open the bleed valves one at a time on the outboard steering ram and turn the helm, try both ways testing to make sure steering fluid is coming out of the bleed valves. If this is working then cover the bleed valve to see if it has some pressure behind it. If you can feel the fluid has some pressure then it may be a seal in the steering ram itself that has failed.

The steering became vague, it was responding slowly and erraticallly to the helm. Checked for air in the system first, and then decided to rebuild the pump. If yours is feeling stiff it may be worth draining the hydraulic fluid, if it is showing signs of brown rust deposits then it is likley one of the seals has broken down and allowed moisture to enter into the pump and rust the internals. They are mostly made of what looks like cast iron so need to be fully immersed in oil or they rust and the pump pistons start to stick.

To bleed the clutch effectively you need a vacuum pump. There are lots of videos on youtube how to do this.

@@wapsac Ended up being a crappy part from ebay that was the problem. Got a new OEM master cylinder and a vacuum pump and had it fixed in 10 minutes! Cheers

Each piston whould be retained in its original cylinder to avoid variances in wear which may caiuse a piston to stick or be too loose if in the wrong cylinder. If its no possible to identify which piston fits into each cylinder then ensure, through trial and error which piston has a good sliding fit in each cylinder and go with that. Not ideal but as good as you can acheive.

Not sure, but probably under the engine in the exhaust box. There will belots of threads where people have cleaned or removed them.

Its almost certainly a worn clutch. Gets heavier as the friction plate and pressure plate wear.

Third screw holding the instrument cluster is very difficult so access. It can be pulled through the retaining hole, just use loads of silicone spray, WD40 or even washing up liquid as a lubricant. Same when pushing back in teasing the edges of the rubber with a screwdriver