@vitorkash It depends, but since you're making it a drift car, I'm guessing you're going for something small around the size of a hand to maybe something a little bigger, and if that's the case, you want to buy parts that are 1/16, 1/14, or 1/10 like mine(I suggest not mixing different size parts together). Once you get your parts, all you do is dimension them, and just put things together in case, if you look at my first video ever on rc cars (it's bad I know), it was really bulky, I went with a bent arm design for the suspension, it was just too big, it was heavy and annoying to print, so if you are doing this I suggest making at least 2-3 versions before making the final product.(Start with you first, then copy and paste the whole project and redesign that one and improve the design, and keep repeating). And finally, have fun with it, you're going to break, a lot of parts but once you have the finished product, it's really fun

@-EhsanMalik- Thanks bro! You saved me.

@@MarcelBossASG that's awesome, I'll do that as v2

@@-EhsanMalik- Glad i could help!

also merry christmas 🎉 i hope im not too late

@@MarcelBossASGIt doesn't matter, Merry Christmas to you too!

@@-EhsanMalik- ❤

@@unfinishedthought thank you!

@@adamb89 you are correct, but I just can't help myself

@@mct75 what do you mean?

@@-EhsanMalik- Instead of the hall effect sensor and magnet. Maybe even have the solar panel run the Arduino?

@@mct75 I see, the issue with that is it's in doors, and a better way to power it would be an ac to DC step down, but I didn't really want to spend more money on altering the electrical safety box, buying more components, so I just made a quick design. Although, one cool thing you did bring up caught my interest, and I just did the rough calculation. So an Arduino nano requires about 5v to run and on operational amperage it's about 20-50mah, and most little solar panels from garden lights produce about 2-4v at around 50-100mah, so you would need 2 panels to run an Arduino nano, 3 just to be safe(since the solar panels aren't 100% efficient). And if you want to run other devices, oh man you're in for some math 😂

@@-EhsanMalik- Lots of math! I was thinking something like the using a CN3065 charging a supercapacitor, and when it hits a threshold fire off the arduino to move the servo. The delayed action would make it even better and more annoying.

@@mct75 you would need a bunch of super capacitors from what I've read, since they discharge and charge fast, wouldn't it just be smarter to have a battery? (I've never used super caps, but you did give me a video idea)

@@takeahike858 thanks

@@bigmackium8844 hell yeah!

Jokes on you, the microplastics were generated AT the printer nozzle anyway. Nothing to do with his effort to recycle which SHOULD be celebrated. xD

@@briankale5977 doing my best to be cheap as possible, because if you go through 1kg every week, you want to reuse the stuff that didn't work

@@Normalguy-x5n hey it's alright, you try something, and if it doesn't work you try something else, that's Engineering for you

@@marcelcraig507 I am very grateful that you noticed!

Getting real close to 40mph mark, just waiting for my final tests unfortunately it's been rainy these past couple of days, but once I get to test, I will be posting the video as soon as possible

@-EhsanMalik- nice

Ohhh it is in the video... xd

Makes me feel like you didn't watch the video... But for the battery it's a 30C 11.1v 2200mah, and the motor is 4900kv so max rpm is about 60k if fully charged, but when almost dead it goes around 50k

@damiansolowski8628 😩 really... (The v and kv is not) But really....

@@-EhsanMalik- I have the same battery like you but my motor is 3300kv so less speed but my gear ratio is less than 4/1 so i think that at the end when bettery is fully charged will be 14 - 15k rpm. And i don`t know is it not too much. What do you think?

@@damiansolowski8628 it depends what are you doing with the motor? What's the purpose?

@@Normalguy-x5n you are correct, and I don't hate people who give advice

@-EhsanMalik- yay I am helpfull😃

@@leobiranykun7808 nope, if you draw power from the Arduino you will not have enough to power all servos, that's why I have a separate power supply(battery) that powers everything including the arduino. And the grounds are all interconnected to prevent noise

@@-EhsanMalik- you know this project is pretty good. Now you should make the same thing with 2.4 ghz rc controller for doing stuff that are totally legal and nothing illegal.

@@leobiranykun7808 🤣 I'll have to talk with FCC about that

@@-EhsanMalik- yo what's your instagram man. I do these projects quite alot and you seem to be a great person to take suggestions to.

@@-EhsanMalik- yo. And is it possible to be done in arduino uno. The old one without the esp32 chip pri-installed

It's fusion 360

Pretty sure this is Fusion 360.

@@nikhilxaxa101 I'm going to making a GitHub when I post the next video

@@marcelcraig507 it's a set with an esc, it's called sidewinder 4 by Castle creations it's like $140 dollars so... Quite pricey, but if you want your rc car fast or high torque, it's really good

@@marcelcraig507 Why thank you! But you've seen nothing yet, I'm working on a better version

@@-EhsanMalik- cant wait to see it

@@suhaimiannuar6008 fusion 360

It's fusion 360, but you have add linkages/joints so fusion knows what moves where and how

@@-EhsanMalik- спасибо!

No problem ​@@mogway791

@@leechibikira1792 that's great, I'm guessing you're having trouble rotating the wheels properly, the trick is to have the steering rods starting point be in the center of them, and be the same length as the arms, and then all you need is the slider holding 2 of the steering rods, I'd suggest using a rack and pinion, mostly because it's the easiest concept

@@-EhsanMalik- okay thanks a million for the information, explaining and I'll try to use rack and pinion hoping it'll work. You just got your self a subscriber and I'm loving all your videos all the way from South Africa

@@leechibikira1792 pretty cool 😎, and I really appreciate the sub

Fusion 360

@@vedpatel8365 To improve your print, try lowering the Z printing height and slowing down the printing speed, and since you're printing smaller pieces, I suggest getting a smaller nozzle than using the stock .4mm, depending on how small the prints are you will probably need a .2 or even smaller (and don't forget to change the nozzle setting in your slicer). The key is to test the interface between the support and the print (I use a small model for testing supports, it's just a 90 degree bracket). For my printer, I use a print height of 0.2mm and an interface height of 0.2mm, so the support skips one layer before printing the model. Also, adjust the support X/Y distance to prevent the support walls from touching the print walls. Hopefully this answers your question, good luck!

This project is built by Arduino, Arduino has a wide range of possibilities when it comes to big projects.

DS3240 40kg 270° servo

😂

It's been great, how you been

@@-EhsanMalik- good

Enjoy your Xbox

I will

Thank you

Wassup

No problem

No problem