I'm going to keep an eye out for a spare set of drives to repair and swap in. Thus far I've been lucky.

@@Ernie-zk3gb a friend of mine works at a graphite shop... Thats another level.

I've definitely seen far worse. I try to keep my machines cleaner than the average production shop- greatly aids me when it comes time to maintain or repair them. Thanks for tuning in!

@@Jaime-m8y its the grade of threaded rod, similar to a bolt grade. B7 is better than the cheaper stuff out there.

@@RocanMotor is it rolled thread, or high strength simular to Grade 8?

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 In the full video we add balance capacitors! This unit powers a Haas VF-2SS mill and a HL-1 Lathe daily now. I ended up sticking with the pony start instead of using start capacitors to keep inrush currents down. Thanks for tuning in!

@@RocanMotor good deal. Ya my 30 HP pulls about 320 amps on start up for about 0.5-1 seconds. I have a video on my channel way back a few years. They are definitely cool devices. I'd post the link but they don't like that I guess anymore.

@@electromechanicalstuff2602 this 40hp is on a 320A service but with a 200A disconnect. I didn't want to risk any unexpected visits from the electric company, lol!

@@RocanMotor mines on a 200 amp service on a 100 amp breaker. The feeder drop tho WAS quite small maybe 2awg. That burned off and I called in a favor to my lineman friend to upgrade the drop to 2/0 aluminum from pole to service. That's as big as they will install for residential. They call that a 200 amp feed. Air cooling they said allows for smaller conductor. Took about a year before it burned off tho. 😂

@@B88C123 fantastic, zero change since installation.

Yes! Once the main motor is started the idler is shut down. The control circuit is set up in such a way that if there is a power failure the entire unit will power down, so it is fail safe. Additionally, since the pulleys I am using are slightly different in size (6" vs 6.5"), I would be unable to run the idler and pony motor simultaneously.

Mike, I couldn't agree more! Diagonal braces are a great idea, particularly with lifts that don't have an overhead support. Wishing you luck on your install!

I just uploaded the latest version to Thingiverse- it will take a day before my account there is verified, so I appreciate your patience! The latest version has a DB15 port for easily adding remote controls, an upgrade we made at a later date. Additionally, the latest version is more rigidly mounted to the head as it does not use the rubber block the original switch uses. www.thingiverse.com/thing:6726130

Absolutely no issues. My South bend lathe is going on ~15 years with a vfd on the original motor without issue, and I've implemented dozens of VFDs on motors of all sorts throughout my career. A few things- 1. Make sure that old motor is greased- I've seen lack of lubricant kill old motors countless times, and often the VFD gets blamed when it had no part in killing the motor. 2. I spoke with Baldor about this a while back, and they had some helpful information. While it is true that modern motors sometimes use improved insulation, Baldor suggested that what often kills motors paired with VFD's is a lack of airflow at very low running frequencies, combined with the older insulation. Their suggestion was to limit the frequency override such that the motor ran between 40 and 90hz. 3. I've had no issues running within the range recommended above, but I also periodically run at much slower speeds (down to 20hz in some situations), for very brief periods, without any issue. 4. Best practice I've found is to select a pulley / back gear combination that gets me close to the speed you want, and then to use the VFD control to fine tune the speed. I appreciate you tuning in!

Thank you!

Thank you! I have a tricky inside profiling job and the through tool coolant will be a huge help for clearing chips. As far as I can tell, Haas never planned on through - tool coolant on these older machines - come to think of it, at the time of manufacturing (1997) through tool coolant might not have even existed!

I don't recall the actual length- my suggestion is to buy a belt that is too long and to cut it to length as I did in the video. I can take a measurement for you, but theres a lot of variation in belt length from model to model. This is a 1965 South Bend 10L. I suggest setting the adjustment to the shortest possible adjustment, and then engage the drive lever to move the pulleys apart. Use a garment measuring tape or string at the middle of the pulleys to get a total belt length. If you are using laced belts, you don't need any additional length. If you are using a glued / lap belt, then add a few inches of length to account for the overlap. Lace it /glue it up and mount it, a little slack is preferred at this point. Then adjust the tensioner as necessary to take up the small amount of slop in the belt.

@RocanMotor I called Squirrel Daddy, the company I got the belt from, and they sold me a strip of lace for $10. I have the lacing tool, so I'm going to shorten it. I have to make 2 4" belts for the 18" American, so it'll all work out. I'll just order more than I need from McMaster Carr. I don't prefer the 1" I got because it's so thin. 0.061"

@@speedhuntersrb we've got some on the way!

Привет, надеюсь, вы меня понимаете, я использую переводчик. В видео использована ракушечная мельница диаметром около 300 мм. Он справился с этим легко. Я думаю, что этот станок TOS может работать практически с любым резаком ISO40.

@@RocanMotor Большое спасибо! Смотрел по отзывам хороший станок , говорт, кто на нем работал

1800rpm, 120/240vac, single phase, 1.5hp. I'm running it on 240vac in this setup. Its okay if there's a slight mismatch in speed- since the pulleys are slightly different in size after the idler motor starts it slows down the pony motor.

Nice! I believe the HL2 had an option for a tailstock? That's the biggest shortcoming of the HL1, I think.

@@RocanMotor Yeah i needed the Tailstock......But you CANT Beat the Price you paid!!

@@DJ-yp4kc couldn't agree more!

Thanks for the heads up and tips! Going on 3 months now without any new issues, so fingers crossed I won't have to replace the caps just yet. Its also my understanding that even the newest servo drives are all plug and play.

@@RocanMotor Trouble is with tants it when you have to replace them because they've finally failed they often do so much damage that repair isn't viable and it's not expensive or even a long job with practice.

I greatly appreciate the kind words! Many more videos on the way.

My pleasure, thanks for watching!

Thank you Luke! We are getting close to running now. In a few weeks I'll be posting a rebuild of my Tool Grinder- it's an Agathon Style, E. Hofmann, Suisse Made.

@@RocanMotor cool cant wait to see it. I am hoping to get some videos up too some time soon

@@LCalleja I look forward to seeing your videos as well!

Greatly appreciate the kind words!

@@RocanMotor You are very welcome my friend

It's best to check the directions of the epoxy being used and to confirm that you can meet the torque and fastener size suggested by the lift manufacturer. In my experience most epoxies allow for higher torque values than an equivalent sized expanding anchor.

I always suggest following manufacturer suggestions. All of the anchoring epoxies I've used specify using studs of the correct size and sizing+cleaning the bore correctly before applying epoxy. Generally this results in a pullout strength that greatly exceeds that of an expanding anchor. Many expanding anchor instructions caution against using epoxy with them, though I have heard of people combining both. Imho either expanding anchors or epoxy are viable options so long as the concrete is prepared correctly and manufacturer instructions are followed. This lift has been installed a few years now and I've experienced zero torque loss in any stud- I can't say the same of expanding anchors I've used in the past. When I did public works we exclusively used anchoring epoxy- far too many failures with expanding anchors over time.

Epoxy and hilti drop in anchors You have been warned

@@Swanlord05 Can you please elaborate? Are you suggesting to use Hilti drop in Anchors and Epoxy or are you warning against them?

@RocanMotor use Hilti drop in anchors.....once u see them u will understand why they rule over all

Thank you!! I'm wrapping up the video showing the board repair and HL-1 Startup- it may be a few weeks, but do stay tuned! Lots of big changes coming to the channel- moving forward Rocan Motor Company will be my full-time job, so plenty of content to come!

I appreciate it! Comments like this really help to keep me motivated!

I'm my testing of the VF-2SS so far I'd agree. Regarding the capacitor start, the current draw for a motor this size was in the 300 A range, supposedly, which I hadn't confirmed through any math of my own. That's for a brief moment of course, and likely okay, but I had the pony handy so this seemed simpler at the time.

Thank you! I tallied it all up and the final cost was roughly $800 for everything. That includes just about everything except for the 4/0 quadruplex cable to connect it all. The motors were free as was the steel for the frame. 40hp rotary phase converters generally are $5000 or more, so overall I'm happy. A smaller unit can be built for much cheaper- the pulleys required for the large motor for example are roughly 25% of the cost, and the large contactor was another 25%.

I considered an electromagnetic clutch, similar to an AC compressor in a car, but ultimately opted to keep it simple and left the belt turning whenever the system runs. The losses are negligible.

​@@RocanMotor0:42

Seems kind of silly to mount the pony motor the way you did when you could have mounted it to the frame along with the larger motor. I really enjoyed the electrical end of your project though.👍

With remarkable force! Split collets are really great.

Thank you for the kind words!

I'll have to check! I appreciate the comment, I was looking for a second port/ for the grease to come out but didn't see one. Didn't cross my mind to look underneath. Thank you!

Thank you! The lathe is up and running and we are working on the video showing the drive repair. Very exciting times for us!

Thank you Joe!! I say give it a shot with a smaller 3 phase motor. A phase converter this large is a bit daunting (and deadly), but the same principles apply to all 3 phase motors and with some research and planning you could have a working phase converter in a weekend. Also, it doesn't need to be expensive- local ads (marketplace, craigslist, etc) turn up free 3 phase motors and components all the time.

Thank you Luke!

Am avut probleme cu șuruburile de extindere. Nu am avut niciodată probleme cu epoxidul, atunci când este folosit corect. Tradus folosind Google.

@@RocanMotor am aceeași problema.Multumsc

@@George-wh7xs Încercați epoxidul. Urmați cu atenție instrucțiunile și veți fi fericit. Multumesc pentru comentariu!

Almost one for each year its sat!

@@RocanMotor yes understood