Just basic dawn dish soap, but actual ultrasonic cleaner liquid does exist. No matter what, the dried gas usually needs at least some manual work. Q-tips seem to work great for that

There's a link to the discord in the description, and theres a chat called your projects. If you need help that would probably be the best place. I might not know exactly what you are looking for, but I could possibly help

For testing, none of the bearings were tightened up to find where binding was occuring, that and I definitely do need to strengthen up some mounts because you are definitely right there is a LOT of flex right now. The heat treating from welding didn't ever even cross my mind. For the rack mount I can't really avoid welding, but add way more support under it to mitigate that hopefully. I can also replace the steering rod I welded to extend it with a new rod. Don't worry this is very helpful information. I have a LOT of things I need to fix later on just due to trying to get a rough template first. I'll try to get that steering fixed sooner than later.

I've heard the corded ones have more of a kick behind them. The only reason I went with the ryobi one is the hp series is nice, battery life is ok, I'm already in that eco system, and the Hercules line wasn't out at the time. For corded or not, small shop area and extension cords are a nightmare. When I move into something bigger I will definitely take note of that

Yeah the Sportsman playlist I did was more of testing of weekly vlogs verses more specific topic catered videos like the Bandit playlist or like when I moved towards starting the "Venture" series and so on. I totally get wanting something more than the sum progress of the time I had in a week verses getting a topic completed. Additionally, even though some of the older videos wasn't uploaded that long ago, the footage is from longer ago most the time. It was only a few weeks ago that I actually caught up to today's date of working week to week. But, yep as I go on I'll keep trying to keep the videos start to finish of a full topic rather than what I just got done. The only real excptions is like when I ran out of time to do something. The weekly videos are tiring to do though, so thinking about toning it down for better quality

So his image has a different numbering scheme than the pin numbers labeled on the plug and the pack. The numbers on both the plug and pack lined up to be the same, so 1 goes to 1 and so on. If you ignore the numbering entirely on the diagram and only look at the shape, the labels for the pins are correct for the pack, which would be the same as looking the plug from the back of it. It is mirrored left to right if you look into the plug you attach. In my pack both the plug and pack pins were also flipped 180 degrees from the image, which threw me for a spin for a bit, but the pins' shape make them only fit together only 1 way. If I need to reword something let me know. Hope that helps!

All the better for scans

Huh that is interesting, that explains why I couldn't send messages sometimes using the ftdi board. At one point I noticed that the activity light on the ftdi board was always on and disconnecting the tx line fixed that. I guess I just assumed that if I didn't send something while another device was sending that it would be fine. Good to know though that it is supposed to be only 2 devices on that line!

Definitely lmk how that works out! On another comment I gave some other examples of how to possibly sense the rpm too if that helps

I have thought about those, but I haven't seen any that are readily able to connect to an arduino. I mainly have 4 options for detecting a cycle. A hall effect sensor or inductor around the cable to detect the current pulses, a hall sensor added around the flywheel to detect the magnet, tapping into the current flywheel sensor, or making a resistor dividor with an octocoupler to detect the 12v pulse through the wire before the coil. All are decently reasonable. I didn't go the inductor route because of other emf sources possibly causing noise. I am still on the fence about either adding another hall sensor to the flywheel or tapping into the original, but I dont want to cause more issues by affecting that signal. Out of the 4 options, the resistor dividor and octocoupler is wired in parallel to the wire to the coil, so there is little to no signal noise, adds minimal assembly complexity, the design can be used on more than just this project, it detects if the coil is actually being powered or not, and it should be so cheap that most tinkerers already have the parts. I could be completely wrong though. So, in a future video I'll try it out and test it!

Its just about the fact I got this project and was starting to collect parts from it for the main venn venture project on the channel. This was one of my first videos on youtube and while it was only a few months ago, it has been much longer for me. In the description I label what the video is about and what I have planned for it the majority of the time, as well as when it actually happened. Since then I think I've progressed in the essay form but I'm still trying to find a balance without scripting it. This coming Monday's video is a good example of that I think.

I hadn't really thought about it, but I do have a pile of parts that I don't think I'll be using. Let me know generally where you are located and what you might need to the channel email. [email protected]

HO! I see that models are not exportable in the links you shared :(

I'll get that fix right now, didn't realize that

I changed the link to the uploaded drive link to the zip file of all the download scan files. Also, as a thank you I included the full res versions, not the quad mesh cleaned up ones though. Hope that helps!

@@mechanceism great tnx :)

That's a good idea, I was going to lightly dust some of the parts with flour and ipa, but didn't want to make a mess. For the charger, the gen 2 pdm is quite big. Since ill be using the zombieverter control board I can use different chargers. For testing right now, ill be using it, but yeah later on I could make it an optional extra or use a much newer and smaller/lighter charger

Definitely use alcohol with baby powder or talcum powder mixed in. Prevents the mess and is much cheaper than a lot of the sprays you can purchase for this use.

It should, it has a main gear that's removable and that is where the sprocket will go instead

@@mechanceism no, I ment that if You drive one of the output shafts, it will still transfer torque to the other - not use the main imput gear at all

@@mechanceism kzbin.info/www/bejne/iny1oqGHfcuJjqMsi=ZRgs3GBj3zuT0Mo3

Oh ohhhhhhhh, I did not think to do it that way. That is definitely a better way than to cut the center diff open. I will definitely give that a shot when I get to testing. At first i thought you meant if like the input was braced to not move, but that would make the outputs go in opposite ways when unlocked. But then I realized you meant leave the input open and let the diff lock and unlock by itself. Yeah I definitely need to do some testing on that, could allow the seat to be shifted back further

Your vacuum lines are always going to be on the output side of the carb to go into the cylinder, because that's the side that the air/fuel mixture is pulled from. Also, because vacuum lines are used to sync the carbs together, usually there are a cap over the vacuum port. Additionally, on some bikes with a vaccum fuel pump, one vaccum line will go to that. In the thumbnail of the image, you can see the black caps and on the left there is a hose from where the furthest cap left would be, each is a vaccum port, but that hose is for the pump. Also, if any of those caps are open to atmosphere, the bike won't run because it can't pull in fuel. Hope that helps!

Yeah you are right, the tennis shoes are not enough anymore

Haha, youtube auto subtitles ftw

Yep, with both front and rear diffs upright they will move the car in the same direction, even though one is turned around. If for some reason it didn't, turning a diff upside-down would swap its direction. In case the motor is spinning the wrong way, that can be changed in software to spin the other way instead

@@mechanceism I was wondering if turning the diff over would change its direction of rotation.

I did, so much so I decided to do a whole project around one. Currently on this channel I'm working on 2 projects concurrently. This one called "Visceral" and the other one "Venture". Venture is an atv with a motorcycle engine swapped in it. Another video will be released on it this coming Monday. After reading a lot about the load capabilities of these atv parts, I was worried about it standing up to the torque. Since in the world of atvs a lot are 2 stroke the rpm wasn't the issue. But yes, it was considered, because they are small and light. I just didn't want to build the whole frame around parts that I was unsure of holding up

You know what, I've never questioned if they were clutch based. I just assumed they were after finding out there were not VLSD. After reading up on torsen style diffs, your absolutely right on them being black magic. That's cool to find out!

@@mechanceism Just a heads up, the viscous in the G35 is a sealed unit. People say it has a tendency randomly unlock when run hot

@Wigwhom86 Wow that's quite an odd flaw. I didn't know that. Thanks for the heads up!

I could redrill the brakes to fit 5x4, but I'd still have tires for 5x4.5. I might as well just have them both on the spacer and run longer studs. I had considered reusing the leafs diff as a center diff, but I hadn't considered using a different car's fwd transmission. That is a good idea. I'll look what I can get in my area. However, I would still have to find an lsd that can replace the open diff inside the other car's fwd transmission, because of the open diff/4wd issues I talked about. I suppose if I found a fwd manual transmission that might work if I can find the correct aftermarket parts. Otherwise, I'd have to deal with the CAN protocol of changing gears, which is possible. I just don't want to get too over my head yet haha

Oh yeah, I just remembered why I didn't go the transmission route. Because the motor was never designed for a flywheel, getting a clutch to work on this would be an absolute pain. I'd have to go clutch-less, which has its own set of issues. I did consider buying a blown motorcycle engine and salvaging the transmission from that since the clutch is a separate chamber technically and would be a lot easier to deal with. But even if I did that, I'd still have to deal with a center diff again. A lot of trade offs between ideas. I'll make sure to make a note of all them to compare.