Plugged straight in with no programming mate 👍

@@simmoshomeworkshop sorted. I'm wanting to add a plug and play cruise control lever to my 1999 Toyota TownAce Noah but the connections on the squib aren't compatible. Wondering if I can replace the squib for a 1st gen RAV4 that has the plug and play connections.

From what I know the electric SUPER HICAS was the better one, and made more reliable as it was simpler with no hydraulic hoses or the need for the power steer pump to operate it

@@simmoshomeworkshop that makes perfect sense. Yes. I’ve just got to fix my motor on the electric rack 4was

It is a general rule that if you disturb a seal it is best to replace, however in this case it is not leaking and it is a lip type seal, after cleaning and a visual inspection of the seal journal and the seal itself, I was happy to reuse the seal rather than pull it out (and possibly cause a new leak 😅). If it would be a bigger job to change the seal if it were to start leaking (like a rear main seal or something) I would have replaced with new for maximum life.

I've never tried with anything other than the autowatch remote that matches the installed unit, I don't see why a cloned remote couldn't perform the same function as long as it can mimic the same frequency as the original, the receiver shouldn't know the difference, I'm assuming..

Thanks mate!

The TT makes it fun.

Better that than have a bunch of hype around it and attention from bozos constantly

@@thrasher10000 true, just an underrated car sadly

@@angelo6167 indeed! This and the MR2 both massive 90s sleepers

Haha! Short answer yes, plenty of people have blocked the turbo inlet tube from the breather and run the crankcase vent hose from the engine into their chassis rail or similar location, makes a great rust preventative. Car would run fine and would help prevent all that oil in the intake system Of course, it is not recommended from an environmental standpoint. I ran mine to a universal catch can here 👇 kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWfRipKug5xsbqcsi=jid0exaiF1CnExzL

@@simmoshomeworkshop Awesome to hear sir! And thank you for the reply! Too often - the best videos on a really specific subject are years old, & the creator long-moved-on to other interests. Am glad to see you're still on it! Thank you so much, again! (I have a 2008 1KD-FTV that I'm determined to keep forever!)

On ya mate, great vehicle choice!

@@simmoshomeworkshop Thank you buddy! In all this EV nonsense ('EV's - powered by coal...') - I run two Toyotas - a 120 Series 'Landcruiser' (Prado in rest of the World), & an Auris (2.0D4D) - both 15 years old. Had the Prado from new. Folk like yourself are helping folk like me to keep our older (better!) vehicles on the road!

Hi mate, the standard NA models did not feature the HICAS, it is typically only found on the twin turbo variants.

Hi mate, if the alternator fuse goes, it should still fire up. Do you know what the other end of the ratchet touched?, if you have shorted something there should be a fuse blown somewhere, it may not be the Alt fuse but still could be a part of the fusable link or another main fuse. I'd start there and see if any part of the fusible link or related fuses have blown. You should have a check engine light in the ON position also under normal circumstances.

@@simmoshomeworkshop i touched the negative battery terminal with the rachet, i checked all fuses inside engine bay with a test light they all fine including fusible link, i checked all fuses inside cab on drivers side all good besides starter fuse 7.5 amp right at the top, doesnt light up with test light pulled the fuse out and checked it looks good not blown or burnt out i swapped it with another 7.5 amp fuse that works and it still doesnt light up with test light im not sure weather its the fuse box itself or the wiring that tripped, i read online people saying it could be a problem with the ecu not getting power to it but im not sure dont wanna go spending money if thats not the problem

Hmm, you should be fine touching the neg terminal unless the other end of the ratchet was touching something live? Do you have good fuel pressure at the hand priming pump? Sounds simple but it's a good start to see if it holds pressure there to be sure you do have fuel. If you have access to a scan tool it would be worth a check for codes if all the fuses are intact and have a check to make sure everything (like the pump suction control valve etc) are plugged in and don't have wiring issues. I'd say it's not impossible, but very unlikely you have damaged an ECM or the injector module.

@@simmoshomeworkshop i might of touched something else, it does have good fuel pressure at the priming pump, ive tired plugging in my scan tool it doesnt connect to the ecu since the engine light disappeared ill check all the wiring and valves tonight

Ah bugger, bit of a concern it won't communicate with the scan tool at all, I hope it's something straightforward mate sorry I can't be more help to you

Sounds like the blower fan may not be working, a good start is to check the blower fan fuse to be sure it's not blown, if it's intact it could be an issue with the blower itself

Hi, it plugs into the factory wiring loom and operates the standard 4 speaker system just fine. There is a port in the back of the unit and sub harness to plug into an external amplifier, but my understanding is there is no internal amplifier for running a sub or anything more powerful than the factory fitted speaker system.

Sounds pretty cool!

If its boot ripped , why you changing out the whole shaft?

I should have worded it better. We had the shaft removed to replace the boot only. The shaft was reused with a new outer boot

@@simmoshomeworkshop we usually do em in situ, pop the cup off.

Ah yeah, would have been way quicker!

It's a KZbin audio edit called: "Keep on Movin"

Hi Mate, not at this point I did not, I had blanked it prior using a plate with a 7mm hole in it. I found I had unusual boost spikes from time to time so I removed it and just ran a catch can. It's been years since I did this clean video, still going well with just a catch can.

Thank u Mate, for your long answer. So i did not understand how kind of part the "catch can..."

No worries, I opted to use a catch can on the breather system for the engine to capture the oil vapor before it enters the intake system, to avoid the exhaust gas from the egr mixing with oil causing the build up in the Manifold. More here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/lWfRipKug5xsbqcsi=94jZ8EZuk4iV7fOB. Hope this helps!

@@simmoshomeworkshop thank you mate

Good tip, makes sense, I can see how it would be better to loosen the bolts in that order, I've done a few now, and I've never thought about which order I take them out.

Hi mate just tried it myself to find out. I did the thing where you tap the build number from the "about device" screen, 7 times, and it asked for the code. You are right the 000000 does not work. I put in the date like this 2024.09.01 with the full stop ( . ) Between the numbers. It worked. I hope it does for you.

@@simmoshomeworkshop Okay, I tried without the dots. I shall try again later. Thank you so much. I have the same unit as you. So I bet it'll work. 🙂‍↕️🙏

I'm all about them foldy mirrors 😅

Hi mate, I can't say with 100% certainty it will, I didn't have one, so I fitted an aftermarket camera. Be best to contact a seller before purchase to be sure, sorry I can't be of more assistance.

Sunny Western Australia over here 😎

@@simmoshomeworkshop Check your email Thx

Thanks mate! It can be an addiction!

The HICAS light only comes on if there is an issue. For me, it has always been low fluid (Dextron 2 or 3 is the preffered fluid) There is a float sensor in the power steering reservoir lid, even the slightest drop in fluid will trigger the light. Other than that, there is a heap of other reasons the light comes on, sensors, errors, etc. There was a procedure to use the HICAS light to diagnose the system through flashes somewhere on the internet. I might have to have a search. Hope this helps!

😅 fair

Mannnn i didnt know they had 4ws.. nor a long wheelbase version. But who would want that????? Great video. To the point no gimmicks. Good teaching.

Thanks mate!

Hi, it did take me quite a few attempts to get the lock and unlock to work the first time. The timing is annoying and can take a few attempts. Make sure the key led flashes when the button is pressed to be sure it's not flat. Be sure to start with the key out of the ignition and door open. The official procedure also says to open the drivers door at the end, too. I didn't need to, but it may help. I've had a heap of comments on my original video about this that also may help, video link below. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXm6hGuGbt94b5Isi=BPg1_QW_Ts5Ih3bQ One comment does mention he struggled to get it to work before leaving the car for a bit with the doors closed and locked, then unlocked the car and started the procedure straight from there. Hope this can help!

From memory the housing was just the one screw I don't recall it being glued or anything. Yeah, cutting it at home for me was definitely out of necessity, couldn't get one cut here locally to save my life!

Great to hear! Yeah we are pretty backwards here down under!

Yep, the base of the charger says 220-240v 190watt

We are pretty backwards down under!

Hmm, it did take me a few attempts to get the fob to work the first time, the timing is a PITA sometimes. Make sure the key led flashes when the button is pressed to be sure it's not flat. Be sure to start with the key out of the ignition and door open. The official procedure also says to open the drivers door at the end, too. I didn't need to, but it may help. I've had a heap of comments on my original video about this that also may help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXm6hGuGbt94b5Isi=BPg1_QW_Ts5Ih3bQ One comment does mention he struggled to get it to work before leaving the car for a bit with the doors closed and locked, then unlocked the car and started the procedure straight from there. Hope this can help.